Cruise of an Auckland Yacht

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XIV, Issue VII, 16 February 1895, Page 148

Cruise of an Auckland Yacht

WRITTEN BY AN ENTHUSIAST. ILLUSTRATED BY T. RYAN. indeed would be this life of ours with all its strange problems and its struggles were it not that most of us have been endowed with that thrice happy faculty which enables us to look forward to the future, in which we usually see a gleam of brightness, or back on those days of the past when our paths lay in pleasant places. And it is a thousand pities that more people do not realise what a splendid investment is obtainable in healthy enjoyment when opportunity offers. Take, for example, a summer’s holiday. Not only does it afford endless pleasure in anticipation, but after it is over how many of our pleasantest hours are spent in fighting our battles o’er again, especially if our pleasures have been taken in the open air in the pursuit of some favourite sport —shootinc, cycling—or best, far best of all, yachting. The pleasures of cruising in a staunch little yacht, stiff and handy, have been sung before, and by far abler writers than he who now takes up the song, but certainly by no greater enthusiast. And this excuse—that he is an enthusiast —must be that otfered by the writer for the telling of the very simple story of a brief holiday cruise in a centreboard yacht in the beautiful waters of the Hauraki Gulf. If it induces one reader to join the lanksof yachtsmen it will not have been written in vain, for that man will probably leave a trifle in his will to the amateur scribbler whose random article first led him to try and to enjoy the greatest of human pleasures. And now let me up anchor, so to speak, and get on with my yarn. Long before the holidays came we had decided, I and my pals, that our 'week off’ should be spent cruising round the Hauraki Gulf in the little four tonner Waitangi, a worthy little namesake of the Wellington crack both in stiffness and in possessing a tine turn of speed. The weather had been so consistently easterly this season that we determined to run down to the Great Barrier by way of a start. The splendid scenic and fishing attractions which would in any case have inclined us thither were supplemented by a certain amount of curiosity to' see what was left of the poor Wairarapa at the foot of Miner's Head.

On the Saturday before Christmas, then, we were on the yacht as soon as ever we could get away from our offices. There was little stowing to be done, but it was getting on for five before everything was right and tight—not ourselves, of course—and we could get away. A strong N.E. wind was blowing, this being, of course, dead ahead for ns if we stuck to our programme, and this we decided to do. Come fair or foul, to the Barrier we would go, and we dropped our moorings determined to beat out the whole 60 miles to windward—not a bad undertaking for a four-ton half-decked centre-board all things considered. The last of the ebb tide was nearly done as we slipped the moorings and stood well down the harbour past Bean rock lighthouse and then down Rangitoto Channel. We made a couple of short boards, and about six o’clock passed close to the! Beacon. The Viking, also bound for the Barrier, was now in our company, and a fine picture she made with her noble spread of snowy canvas, and her magnificently shaped hull, threshing through the water like a prond sea queen, the sea roaring away past her bows in baffled anger. Over to the Wade shore we both stood putting round on the port side in due course, so as to weather the Noises’ rocks.

Thence we stood away for Cape Colville, a nice open course. There was now a fine wholesail breeze prevailing, so the good little yacht moved through the water at a very fair pace despite the heavy ocean swell against her. And now we began to feel that we were fairly away on our cruise. Our spirits were high and our hearts glad, as those of all good yachtsmen must ever be when the fresh wind blows boisterously round, driving away blue devils, cares and worries as if they had never existed, and when each dash of salt spray seems like the welcome of an old friend—as indeed it is. As the dark came down on the sea we were just able to see the Viking at about half a mile to windward. She was plunging away heavily, making more of the weather than we were. We did not see anything more of her all night till day-

ight, when we met her again off the Watchman, where we kept in company for a short time. As she was going to Fitzroy Harbour she bore away from us on the starboard tack whilst we kept on beating to windward to make Blind Bay. Shortly after the Viking parted company with us we got a good breeze. We eventually reached Blind Bay at 9.45 a. tn. on the 22ad after a rattling good sail to windward, doing the sixty miles in 16 hours, mt a bad performance by any means. On our arrival in Blind Bay, we were met by Messrs J. and T. Ryan, and with true colonial hospitality did these gentlemen entertain ns during our stay. They never allowed us to have a meal aboard scarcely, and in every way laid themselves out to make our stay an enjoyable one. In the afternoon we went shark hunting — thoroughly equipped for the fray with harpoons, swivel hooks, and all the paraphernalia for hooking monsters. It was probably this that caused the brutes to disappear when we came on the scene, for not one did we catch or even see, though before we arrived there were any number of them about. We could see their fins in plenty above the water. Monday morning saw us early astir, as we were going to visit the scene of the wreck of the Wairarapa at the other end of the island at Miner’s Head. We got off at 6 a.m., and a nice light easterly breeze prevailed,so we soon skipped past the lovely Wangaparapara Harbour, and through the picturesque islands outside Port Fitzroy, where some marvels of nature can be seen. We passed between the highwooded Nelson Island and Wellington Island, and soon were across Port Abercrombie, where we saw the Viking coming out of Maori Bay. The breeze now began to freshen, and we got some stiff puffs off the high land round Miner’s Head. As there was a good breeze and ocean roll in at the wreck, we decided to go into Coppermine Bay with the yacht and leave her at anchor there, because there would be no anchorage near the wreck. We left the yacht snug at anchor and went round Miner's Head in the dingy to the wreck, about three-quarters of a mile away. The wreck was in just the same position as when she sank, but all the hurricane deck was carried away, so that she appeared to be deeper in the water. There was a great quantity of wreckage floating about, and we secured some relics of the ill-fated vessel. After taking some photos we left the wreck, and had a rough trip back in the dingy to the yacht; in fact, we nearly got swamped with two heavy seas which came over us. When at last we got safely back to Coppermine Bay we went ashore to see the deserted copper workings. Busy indeed must the scene have been here when the fifty houses of the settlement were full of miners, and when there was the clank of the heavy machinery round the mine month. There is nothing left now. Ti-tree and scrub once more reign supreme, and the only sign of life left was the numberless herds of wild goats. All round this coast it is literally lined with them. We had some very good sport stalking them whilst in Mine Bay, and got several. After having a good meal we got underway again for Maori Bay, where we went on shore and visited the lovely cemetery where so many of the Wairarapa passengers are laid to rest. A more beautiful spot could hardly have been chosen on all the Barrier for a cemetery. After chatting with the Maoris on shore for a time we got underway again for Port Fitzroy. The wind was now very light, so progress was slow. When we reached Port Abercrombie it died away to a dead calm, so we started to tow the yacht to Rarohara Bay, which we reached at 9 p.m., very tired after a very good day’s outing. We anchored off Mr Warren’s residence. He soon came off and invited us ashore for the

evening, bat as it was late, and we rather * done,’ we reluctantly had to refuse till the morning, when we went to breakfast with him. It was Christmas morning, and we had a good time—plenty of music and singing till our departure at 11 a. tn., when we got underway for Mr Flinn’s at Wairahi. A nice breeze was blowing, so taking Mr Warren, jnnr., with ns, we soon glided across the lake like harbour of Port Fitzroy and anchored off Mr Flinn’s residence. He was on the beach to meet ns, and greeted ns with the compliments of the season, telling us we were all invited on shore to Christmas dinner with his family. We

clewed up sails and were soon ashore renewing old acquaintances with Mr Flinn’s family, who were now all congregated at his residence. We had a very jolly stay on shore, rambling through the orchard and grounds. As time was getting on we had to make a start again, leaving Mr Flinn’s at 4 p.m., bound now for Blind Bay. On leaving we promised to be back again next day if the weather was favonrable. We still had the easterly wind, and were soon gliding down the harbour bonnd through Man-o’-War Passage, which is one of the entrances to Port Fitzroy, only 40 yards wide, and 11 fathoms of water in it. There can be no question as regards the exquisite beauty of Port Fitzroy, for a lovelier harbour does not exist in New Zealand. Once outside Man-o’-War Passage we again began threading onr way through the lovely islands, a most pleasing experience, for we saw on either side rocks of most fantasaic shapes, and scenery of the grandest description. When we got to Flat Island we had a dead beat up to Blind Bay. To hurry up and ease the yacht a little two went in the dingy and pulled along the shore, getting into the bay sometime before the yacht,

as the wind dropped almost to a calm. In the evening we went to the local post-office to send letters away, as the mail was going to Auckland next day. We were routed up early next morning to meet the Argyle steamer from Auckland. She was bringing down excursionists to the Barrier. A good number were on board to see the sights of the island. After the steamer left us we had a consultation as to onr starting home again, as the barometer was falling and weather very threatening. We did not relish the idea of having to beat back to Auckland

in a stiff sou’ wester. To mend matters a slight drizzling shower came on, which soon decided us to leave, and get under the mainland at Cape Colville if the wind came westerly. Getting our waterbutt full we got on board again and ready to start. There was now a nice E.N.E. breeze blowing, so we were soon waving adieux bowling past the bluff head of Blind Bay bound for Te Koumn, near Coromandel. A pleasant run of two honrs brought us to the Watchman, where we dropped anchor in 20 fathams to do some fishing. Unfortunately we forgot to get some bait;

but not to be done, we opened a tin of corned beef and used some of it by tying it on the hooks with cotton. Incredible as it may seem, it succeeded well, as we cangbt seven large schnapper in a short time. Cutting a sebnapper in half we baited the shark lines, and soon got a tremendous tng. The excitement was intense. For a moment one would think he was gone, and then another tremendous tng made us sure that the monster was still there. And now ensued one of those splendid tug-of-wars which master shark can furnish when he likes. The

monster was at last got to the surface, and then there was a fine pow wow, the water round the yacht being churned into foam by the wild lashing of the creature’s tail. A second’s pause in the struggle, and the harpoon was firmly driven home, and after one or two wild plunges the huge fish gave up the ghost, his blood dying the water all round crimson. The lines were parted again, and another heavy tng followed, this time not quite so furious. To our surprise it was a very large hapuka, about 701bs. Soon afterwards another smaller one was-caught. We would have liked to have stopped longer fishing, but the wind was increasing every moment, and the yacht rolling very heavily. We got our anchor up, therefore, and stood up over to Cape Colville with a slashing breeze, which we earned till off Cabbage Bay, when it suddenly dropped to a dead calm. We lay like * a painted ship upon a painted ocean ’ for an honr or more, when a good breeze came up, causing us to bowl along past the islands of the Coromandel coast. Here we had some more good fishing, for a school of porpoises kept chasing us, so getting the harpoon ready we made fast to a big one. After a terrible struggle we got him alongside, having to heave the yacht to so as to haul him up. Off Gannet Island we discharged a couple of barrels to frighten the birds. An enormous cloud of them rose up, almost darkening the sky, such was the multitude of birds. We soon got amongst porpoises again and made fast to another, but he got away after a good struggle, the harpoon drawing out. The wind was now dropping fast, but lasted till we got inside Te Kourou Harbour, where we dropped anchor at 8 p.m. for the night. Next morning broke very dirty and threatening. We bad intended to go to the Thames, but as the E. wind kept increasing after breakfast, we decided to run across to Rath’s Island. We started away with full mainsail and spanking breeze, which freshened very much as we got off the land, so much so that we had to lay to to put in a single reef. On resuming our course the wind kept increasing in fury with a mountainous sea, which caused us to drop down

oar peak and scud before what was now a howling gale with high confused sea. In spite of our shortened sail we ran from Te Koumu to Rath’s Island in one and three-qaarter hours, glad to get oat of sach a rough bit of water. We made all snug and went on shore to see Captain Ruth and family, who were all well. They have made considerable alterations since last year for the accommodation of visitors. And of all the lovely spots around the golf none can compare with Ruth’s Island for a quiet holiday. Plenty of lovely beaches for bathing, whilst roaming round the rocks lovely bits of coast scenery meet the eye on every hand, and from the summit of the island the panoramic view cannot be excelled. On the oatside beach we indulged in some splendid surf bathing, as the breakers from the easterly gale came tumbling on the sandy bays in grand style. After dark a splendid musical evening was spent at Captain Rath’s residence.

Next morning (Friday) the gale was still blowing, so after a good time at surf-bathing we were on board again underway for Auckland, as our provisions began to ran short* and we needed replenishing. We put in a couple of reefs with storm jib and made tracks for town before the gale, which was now blowing its hardest, and very squally. The ran to town was a splendid one, doing the distance, twentythree miles in five minutes under three hours. Part of the time we ran with peak eased right down in the squalls. On Saturday morning, getting stores aboard, the wind took off a bit, so we continued our journey, going from town to Waiwera with the wind about N. E. We had a dead beat out to Whangaparoa, and then a free sheet to Waiwera, where we lay for the night. After tea we went on shore for a stroll and bath in the hot springs there. Whilst on shore the wind came up again, blowing a strong breeze, causing a nasty swell and surf to come in the bay, which made us uneasy about staying there, but we decided, as the yacht was rolling heavily, to go on board, to pat out both anchors with thirty fathoms line on each, and leave her there till morning, as we intended to sleep ashore at the hotel, not caring to sleep on board in such a rolling sea. It was a difficult matter to get off to the yacht through the surf in the small dingy, so only one was able to go off in safety. Both anchors getting a firm grip, we went up to the hotel and had a fine musical evening in the social hall. The wind was howling wild during the night, causing us to be up at daybreak to see if the yacht was safe. We were all glad to see she was riding safely like a seagull on the waves. As it had the appearance of a very wild day, we decided there and then to clear out from Waiwera, and the next intricate work was how to get aboard through the surf, which was now breaking heavily on the beach. It was decided for two only to go in the dingy and make the attempt, but the first time a huge wave came aboard swamping the dingy and ducking both. Getting on shore with the dingy, it was emptied and another attempt, was made, which was successful, the breakers being negotiated in grand style and the yacht safely reached. AU being on board, a start was made to cook breakfast — not an easy

matter the way the yacht was rolling. Anyhow a good substantial meal was put away and a start made to clear out, as the wind was unmistakeably increasing. Putting two reefs in the mainsail with storm jib set, we decided to go to Waiheke Island, so had a long leg out to Whangaparoa Point, where it necessitated a short tack to weather the dangerous reefs off the point. On the tack from Waiwera to the point we got a severe doing owing to

the high confused sea, accompanied by a big northerly roll. The decks were awash the whole time, and an occasional sea broke clean over us, so that we had a very wet trip to the point, and right glad were we to square away to Waiheke after rounding the reefs. After passing Tiritiri Island the sea and wind got more moderate, so much so that off

Rakino Island we had the whole mainsail on again. We passed between Rakino and Motutapu Islands, and when in the passage we dropped anchor to fish awhile, getting several, then bore away for Patiki Bay at Waiheke, where we anchored for the night. Monday was spent roaming round the bays near at hand, when an adjournment was made to the yacht to clear up things a bit in readiness for our return to town. The rough

trip from Waiwera had made things below a bit wet, so we aired all the rugs, etc., then went off the bay fishing, catching about sixty schnapper in a short time. In the afternoon we left for our moorings with a lovely E. breeze, carrying all sail with big balloon jib set. A smart run home was make and the moorings picked up after a very enjoyable week spent round the Gulf. The few stiff blows we had rather lent an additional interest to the trip. It was grand to see how well our craft could behave in a big sea-way. One and all thoroughly enjoyed the cruise, and only hope for many more such trips round a coast which is second to none in the world for yachting and sport.