LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XIII, Issue XIV, 6 October 1894, Page 333

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

• RIDIHC-HABIT.

T present that there is no abso—j.—X lately definite style in the world J i *millinery mast be quite clear 1 to all. Anything may be worn, 1 from a Gainsborough to a bargee '■W ”* TJZ* ■ ca P> and the wearer cannot be \t if ■ said to be violating any of ■ fashion’s decrees. Last Sunday • we not ' cet * one of fashion’s leaders wearing a particularly /& t I delightful Gainsborough carriage chapeau, with a rather high ’>'W\ crown and boldly curved brim. ' J Mu'S showed black velvet next to ' ’ ’ /"i V the face, and an outer covering of emerald green velours, on which long ostrich plumes formed a rich flowing note. Beside her eat another devotee wearing a kind of bicome, fashioned somewhat on the same lines as a Napoleon hat, which I here illustrate. It is composed of black and violet velvet, with sable plumes perched between the cleft—the coloured velours are next to the

wearer’s hair —is very much after the ‘ Napoleon ’ shape, with the difference that the brim is not so much turned up at the back. A handsome jet trimming edges this piece of millinery. Hats with chip brims and rough straw crowns are already appearing on the spring horizon ; and violets, from the simple garden growth to the delicately tinted Parma blossoms, and from the twopenny bunches to the silk sprays fresh from Parisian fairy fingers, are once again tempting the heart of woman.

There are hardly ever many novelties in the riding world ; so, when now and then one or two new things make their appearance for the benefit of the fair riders, they may generally be judged as excellent. Last year the drill shirt and light covert coat were all the rage among the morning Amazons in the Row. At present this natty doublebreasted garment bids fair to be the success of the season. 'This daintily-fashioned coat, indeed, comes as a true relief after the floppy open jackets and the uncompromisingly stiff habit bodice, with its single row of buttons and stupid

little attempt at a tail. Here, at least, we have a sensibly cut corsage, completed by a good basque that hides any deficiencies in the back portion of the skirt. Instead of the ordinary riding tiousers, many women are favouring black silk tights, that have the advantage of doing away with the necessity of wearing stockings, and their natural consequence, namely, suspenders or garters, either of these being undesirable as far as security and comfort are concerned. White doe-skin gloves still remain de mode in the riding world, and so does the pot hat. Why cannot some kindly soul hit upon a new idea for an artistic-looking chapeau, combining comfort and beauty?

Anything (at least, nearly anything) can be worn in the way of evening bodices. We allude more especially to the various styles of dicolletts. Some girle favour the very pronounced, low-cut corsage that reminds one of John Leech’s old maidens. In these bodices the shoulders remain uncovered, a lace berthd encircling the decollete. Of course,

the wearer of this particularly degage style frequently subjects herself to remarks such as this : • Why, the girl is actually jumping out of her frock 1’ Then' there is the sleeveless, square-cut corsage, secured on the shoulders by knotted ribbons or narrow jewelled straps in which really valuable stones are sometimes encrusted. But one of the daintiest styles is the frock cut in a discreet Greek round just below the collar-bone, with butterfly bows in very broad ribbon perched on the short puffed sleeves.

Here is a dainty model of an opera cloak in maize-coloured ‘ Sicilienne ’ silk, that would suit a brunette. A pretty jet garniture runs round the top of the narrow fur edging, and

the rever like pieces are composed of black velour de Nord. The deep fur collar, continued in the shape of trimming down the front of the mantle, is in light bear, but a cheaper kind of skin might, of course, be substituted.

* Only a year ago ’ no tasteful woman but would have howled at the mere thought of blending turquoise blue with pansy. However, after a few weeks of tuition, our eyes have become accustomed to this mixture ; indeed, we now quite admire this treatment of colour, artistically exemplified in one of the ‘ Go Bang ’ frocks, and worn with great success as a spring costume. The jupe offers a charming

compromise between the bond-fide draped skirt and the plain confection, which allows of so little scope in the way of new trimmings. A deep band of pansy velvet is stretched round the turquoise-blue cloth tablier-shaped jupe, which opens in a V at the side to disclose a fan-like arrangement of light blue foulard. The bodice is in the silk, while the jaunty little cape is in cloth and velours, to correspond with the tablier.

The tulle cravats have not as yet obtained any very large share of favour. Their adoption is quite the exception, not the rule ; in fact, so far as we can judge, it seems impossible to cast down chiffon from its throne. We are still prepared to worship this flimsy fabric with enthusiasm, and in the Park, at Lord’s Cricket Ground, at Kempton, or whither you may wander, you will find that three out of every four well-dressed women will be wearing a chiffon bodice. Of course, with the demand has arisen the supply, and now the ready made blouse of chiffon may be bought ; but happily as yet it is not cheap, therefore it is bound to remain to a certain degree select—by select I mean not allowed the privilege of decorating the shoulders of the proletariat. There is a great difference, however, in the quality of chiffon. The best, although resembling the cheapest in outward semblance, is really most durable, while the cheap kind lasts scarcely a week. The accordion pleating, too, varies considerably to day. Some of the machines, obviously constructed on economical principles.

permit of such limited fulness that the folds at once become dishevelled. It is quite necessary, if you have accordion pleated chiffon, to have it of the very finest quality, and with a liberal amount of stuff in it, else will dire results wait upon it. It will wear but a moment, and in that moment it will lack every measure of elegance.

Heloise.