LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XIII, Issue VI, 11 August 1894, Page 141

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

NEW BLOUSES.

ASCINATING is the name of the stylish hat called the Duchess of Devonshire. The one illustrated is in black velvet, trimmed with black ostrich plumes, a flat black wing supporting the brim underneath.

There is no doubt that the colours of the year in materials are particularly soft and pretty, and I was charmed with a little

jet edging for wearing with them, having points at close intervale, formed by threading three long white, pink and green bugles together, and very pretty it looked. Another of a similar nature showed the intermixture of straw colour. Two-inch galons, like ribbons formed of interwoven tinsel thread in curious colourings, show that Russian element which has found so much favour of late. Some are in tones of blue, others show a mixture of terra-cotta and blue, or green and gold, or pink, green, and gold ; and the patterns in every instance are inspired

by Russian ornamentations. There are a good many other Russian galons with a groundwork of white muslin embroidery, relieved by colours worked over the foundation, and forming a distinct design upon them.

Everything that is waved is fashionable, waved worsted braids in all kinds and colours for skirts. A handsome design in waved velvet with a jet edge has jet stars worked all over the velvet. Crochet unites many of the handsomest jet trimmings, and several braids have a waved edge crocheted in silk, which gives them much importance.

Black and white is once more popular. Black tulles are worked with white ; and black gimps are united with white stitches.

Blouses are made to fit almost like bodies now. The two sketched are admirable illustrations of the best styles. Fig. 2 A smart close-fitting black satin blouse, with bands of

cream guipure insertion on the sleeves and bodice. Velvet yoke. The blouse is fastened on the left side with a black satin sash. Short bows and ends.

Fig 3. A stylish russet-brown satin blouse, trimmed with ficelle guipure over gold galon, arranged in deep vandykes both back and front, also on the full gigot sleeves.

It would be difficult to find prettier outdoor garments than those a well- known London dressmaker has now on hand. Many of the jackets are in a dark tint of fawn cloth, with a triple flounced basque at the waist, having a raw edge ; a turn-down collar, large sleeves, and fur at the neck. Another had wide flap seams, the whole of the bodice and basque apparently tucked. These just meet a difficult want, a stylish garment for a young girl. Plum is one of the most fashionable colours of the day. A cloth gown, fastened at back, had a full bodice and rounded openwork yoke, em-

broidered « Jour round the basque, with velvet embroidery on the skirt, a gown suited to any occasion.

A pretty party frock for a little girl is given as my fourth illustration. I fell quite in love with it. Nor was I wrong, as I am convinced you will say when you look at the frock which is sketched here. The frock is in the popular Empire style, of a fine white net, mounted on an ivory satin lining, and striped with bands of Valenciennes insertion, edged on either side with a beading, through which is run bcbe ribbon of white satin.

A very delightful gown is designed here, and it could be relied upon to play its part with decorative grace next year, when I am convinced it would not be in the least degree demode. It is made of black velvet, with the skirt slightly draped, over an under petticoat of reseda green velvet, edged with sable ; while the bodice is entirely of the green velvet, and a deep collar of yellow tinted lace is caught with jet ornaments, headed with sable, and decked with a bunch of roses. Laces, by the way, are particularly beautiful.

Their proper names and varieties I know not, in my ignorance, but will christen them, for lack of better, Point Jay, and under that name will worship them all with enthusiasm, so soft and filmy and dainty are the traceries, while the colour for the most part takes that butter tin, at the present moment smiled upon by the Parisian authorities.

A charming bodice I saw, which was destined to grace a dame just off to Monte Carlo, was made of cherry-coloured mirror velvet, with an accordion pleating of black chiffon brought into the waist on either side, and adorned with a zouave of cream lace. For those fortunate few who are bound for the Sunny South have been designed some specially fascinating blouses of chiffon. One which haunts my memory took the tints of the tea rose. Most cleverly is it contrived of pink, with a drapery of pale yellow over it, and a lace pelerine. Yet another lovely chiffon blouse is in coquelicot, profusely frilled and edged with a tiny cream insertion, the chemisette of this being made separately, so that the bodice can be hich or low at will.

A beautiful ball drees was made with the skirt of white moire, from the waist to the hem of which fell long black chiffon scarfs, passed through jet rings at the knees, with

garlands of La France rns“». The bodice of this was of white satin, studded with tiny jet beads, while the shoulder straps were of black satin tied into bows, with a bunch of La France roses on one side.

HELOISE.