LONDON ANO PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XII, Issue XII, 24 March 1894, Page 285

LONDON ANO PARIS FASHIONS.

A CYCLING DRESS. Zz+?\ HORT waists, sloping shoulders, ILS 7 wing sleeves, pelisses and ermine XjßflWpJ" fur, having been revived with so much fervour, the hair dressing f contemporary with these modes of j T xi' some sixty years back, remains | alone with the coal scuttle bonnet to complete the revival of z/fl: the 1830 belle. The attempts at /"k \ l 7 ') t * ie bonnet so far have dismally / /jrYrr'ilfcro V y. failed to ‘catch on;’ but it re1 / TRv' mains to be seen whether the coiffure of the period is adapted with more enthusiasm than the bonnet. More than one of the Regent and Bond-street hair-dressers are now showing their wax-models in the full glory of the style familiar in the old simpering • Books of Beauty,’ the hair drawn straight up from the nape of the neck to near the top of the head, then spread in two bows, and again tied by ribbon, or a high comb in place of it ; a bunch of curls on either side of the face, the hair being usually previously parted in the middle, or in the case of more youthful or coquettish wearers on one side. We have long been given to understand that the un’ovely * bun ’ was doomed, though in spite of its prophesied dissolution, it has till now continued to flourish. Possibly the novelty of the 1830 coiffure may succeed in displacing it.

The bonnet illustrated is made in black velvet, embroidered with steel. It is trimmed with a black velvet bow and osprey, and jet and steel ornaments. *** * * * The present fashion of wearing fancy bodices in the house gives great scope for variety in sleeves. I will describe one in the newest style. The puff is cut with the greater width at the elbow, below which it is gathered in. A piece of silk

gathered at intervals is fitted to the lining for the lower part. This is finished at the wrist with a band of fancy galon, a similar one hiding the join below the elbow. • ♦ ♦ * ♦ * Whether cycling is either desirable or suitable as an exer-

else or amusement fur ladies, it is a patent fact that it is becoming so general amongst them that a suitable costume for the purpose is a necessity, ordinary wear being emphatically dangerous, uncomfortable, and most ungraceful and unsuitable in every respect as regards the skirt. In Paris — where there has been a perfect rage for cycling amongst the ladies for some time now—a costume distinctly made for this purpose alone is universally acknowledged and worn by the fair cyclists of the better class, this being one of those things done ‘ better in France.’ A CYCLING DRESS. A sketch of a Parisian cycling costume forms the subject of my second design. Thick brown tweed is the material of which the suit is composed, and it is made with a pleated bodice from throat to waist, from whence a full skirt falls to near the knees. Under this skirt very full Turkish or Zouave trousers are worn to just below the knees. A short Eton coat is worn over the pleated bodice, a brown leather belt, and brown leather gaiters meet the trousers, and a brown straw sailor hat is suitable and serviceable wear, though in Paris a tan leather capote is, with a Zouave or Eton coat and gaiters en suite, often sported by the wealthier ladies. *♦* * * ♦ A bride’s travelling costume is always an interesting question to herself and her friends. I saw such an extremely pretty one the other day that I send you a sketch of it, and also of the bridesmaid’s dress. Travelling Costume : Electric blue faced cloth, the bodice prettily trimmed with deep-tinted guipure lace, with crossover bands of Byzantine embroidery, the same edging the waist, sleeves, and forming the frill round skirt. Bridesmaid’s Drees: Ivory brocade, with full white chiffon yoke, edged with apple green velvet ribbon, and a frill of lace ; the bell skirt festooned with lace, headed with a velvet roll, and bows to match. The bridal robe was of rich ivory satin ; the bodice was trimmed with a fichu of chiffon, edged with Brussels lace, and finished at the waist with a band of pearl and gold passementerie ; petticoat and train vandyked with chiffon, and handsomely draped with Honiton lace, the latter forming a Watteau pleat.

Now, as regards hairdressing, my experience is that the really smart women have not adopted the fashion of wearing the hair low down, and that now everything points to the higher treatment. But the fringes must be close, and, whenever the face is of the type that Du Maurier has made us in love with, the hair is parted down the middle. **♦ * * * The skirts of the present season, while hanging in fuller pleats at the back, do not stand out so much at the sides as they did in the spring. This skirt is slightly eased into the waist, and the three gores at the back hang each in a box pleat. Four yards of material sufliee for a 42 length of skirt. Heloise.