SMART TOQUE AND COSTUMES-I.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XI, Issue 38, 23 September 1893, Page 237

SMART TOQUE AND COSTUMES-I.

Toques are exceedingly chic. The one sketched this week is in the new Vinoline coloured velvet, with edging of brown

ostrich feathers. Large bouquet of shaded velvet violets, stalks, and leaves.

The second illustration shows a charming costume of mixed tweed. The full bodice of tartan silk is worn under a buttoned zouave of the tweed ; the yoke frill is edged with lines of tartan cord. The tweed skirt is nntrimmed, and cut in the moderate gored shape. Hat of dark brown straw, with bunch of ostrich plumes in green, blue, and red, matching the shades of the tartan, and trimmed with velvet to correspond.

The bodice seen in my third illustration shows one of the many ways of adapting the fashionable lace insertion to the trimming. The slashes on the sleeves give a rather picturesque effect, and the deep belt with braces are rather novel in lace. Another way of using insertion is to have it in three bands down the sleeves, with wide strips of the material between. Black is the favourite colour for trim ming in this way, but any other tint is equally orthodox. Pale green ciepon looks very cool and dainty when trimmed with cream-coloured lace in this way. There is a particulartone of pale pink which looks deliciously cool and fresh when trimmed with white. In batiste and lace insertion this tone of pink is admirable. The real old blush-rose pink is now in again, and is much used in conjunction with black, not only on bonnets and hats, but dresses as well. A good example of its use is seen in a dress of black embroidered grenadine, striped with rose-pink, and trimmed with bands of imitation point laid over ribbon of the same shade.

As will be seen from my sketch, sleeves are still worn very tight from the wrist to the elbow and very full and puffy above, though not nearly to the same extent as they have been. Skirts are still full and very heavy, if made of anything weightier than silk. Serge and tweed skirts are unlined for summer wear, a merciful circumstance in view of their great width and consequent weight. *** * * * PRETTY IDEA FOR A CHILDREN’S FANCY DRESS BALL. For a slight, graceful-looking boy, a gondolier’s costume is very effective and wonderfully becoming. 1 saw it cairied out last week at a bazaar, and noted the details. Sealbrown woollen tights, over which was a loose white shirt or blouse with very full sleeves ; and over this a sleeveless small jacket of gold velveteen, bordered with gold and brown passementerie ; and round the waist was carelessly knotted a many coloured soft silk scarf, with the ends falling at the left side. The small, close-fitting cap is of gold velveteen, and the shoes are of tan suede. To be in character, of course the boy should be dark ; and if he has biown curly hair so much the better. Another costume for boys, which has the advantage of suiting almost any kind of figure, is a Buffalo Bill dress that is too well known to need a description ; and a Russian Moujik’s dress is also very effective, but perhaps somewhat heavy-looking for dancing. This consists of leather breeches, high fur-lined boots, and a long, loose paletot, double-breasted and pleated into the belt behind, edged with fur everywhere, and a fur cap with peaks coming down over the ears and forehead.

For little girls and for little baby-boys and girls there is an infinite variety of delightful costumes. Nothing looks more completely, delightfully bewitching as a small -

featured pale dark child dressed «la Jai>onaise! I saw this carried out once, and it was unanimously voted the most successful and original dress in the room. First of all comes a plain straight little gown kilted all round on a broad band or rather roller, for to be properly carried out the skirt is simply wound round the body, tolded over and pinned by way of fastening. Then comes the bustle, which is simply a little narrow cushion, prettyfirm, covered with either the material of the skirt or with that of the loose overskirt or jacket. This latter completes the costume. It has very wide sleeves, and is very wide altogether, being simply slipped on and folded over in front, held in at the waist by the strings of the cushion, which is tied on behind outside. The skirt might be of pale blue muslin, embroidered all over with a many coloured design, or in plain silver or gold, and the over garment of a deeperblue, bordered all round with Japanese fans, pins, etc. For a little fair-haired, blue-eyed maiden, especially if she is very young, the character of an angel is very simple and pretty, but some people have either conscientious or superstitious scruples about dressing a child so. However, here is the dress :—A white accordion-pleated silk crepe gown, falling straight and loose from the slightly low round neck to the feet: two little curved zouave fronts and backs, very tiny and just meeting in the middle, back and front, of white crepe, embroidered with tiny brilliants or dear glass beads, a little star of brilliants joining the two fronts, and two similar smaller ones being placed at the upper points of the small wings, which are sewn firmly on the shoulders behind and are made of white gauze paper over very fine bamboo. The hair should be left loose and flowing. Little Goody Two-shoes is a pretty and effective costume. The little full skirt and panier are of pink and white muslin, or sateen with two or three rows of narrow black velvet ribbon round the bottom of the skirt. The corselet bodice is of black velvet, and is filled in a V-shaped front, top, and sleeves of white pongee silk or Indian muslin. The sleeves are tiek round with pale pink ribbon, and the little cap is made of white Indian muslin or silk, and trimmed with pink ribbon. Pale pink silk stockings, pink kid shoes with black velvet butterfly bows, and a chatelaine with a little black velvet pincushion in the form of a heart with * Goody ’ written on in pins, and two tiny cardboard shoes covered with pale pink silk, one holding a thimble and the other a pair of scissors, complete the costume.

Heloise.