LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume X, Issue 25, 24 June 1893, Page 598

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

LOVELY EVENING DRESSES. (SEE ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE 597.1 No 1. is a charming evening gown for a young ladv. It is made in turquoise blue striped broche of Louis XVI. pattern. Skirt with short train, edged with three frills of narrow blue satin ribbon. Low bodice in Empire style. Berthe of two rows of white Brussels applique lace. Full elbow sleeves with deep ruffles of the lace. A blue satin ribbon is crossed over from the back to the front, and forms a waistband, finishing in front with long ends Bow and bandean for the hair in turquoise velvet. This dress would look well also in pale mauve and yellow. No. 2. Ball dress for a young lady.—Peach crepe d’Albion, lined with silk. A demi-train with trimming in curl marabout feather. Short-waisted bodice in pure Empire style trimmed with a beautiful pearl passementerie, which is carried round the bodice, and confines the fulness, finishing in front with pearl tassels. The skirt is draped from the belt. Full puffed sleeves with torsade on each shoulder. For the hair, pouff of ostrich feathers with osprey in peach to match the pearl aigrette. No. 3. Ball dress in white tulle over white satin. Short skirt with two rows of a fringe of daisies over a flounce of tulle, run with baby ribbons. The daisy fringe is carried down each seam. Low bodice with berthe of daises. Puff sleeves and folded satin waistband. HELP FOR THE HOME DRESSMAKER. DIRECTIONS FOR VANDYKE PUFFS, AND SKIRT TRIMMINGS. The fiat has gone forth and the comfortable, truly elegant plain skirt will be seen no more. Ruffles, frills, flounces, quillings and folds are already shown upon the latest toilettes, and the prospect for spring and summer is one of beruflied skirts, over abundant frills and general voluminonsness. Still there is no reason for rushing to an extreme that in all probability will be short-lived. There is no necessity at present for making skirts that resemble umbrellas more than gowns. There is no need to trim excessive! v, nor up the entire length of the skirt as some modistes would have us to do. In brief, there is no objection at all to applying the laws of taste to the new craze, and so enjoy gowns chat are modern without being extreme and trimmings that are in keeping with the mode without being absurd. There is one great advantage which the makers of their own gowns possess over their sisters who are in the hands of the modistes. They can modify fashions to suit their own needs, and can assert that personality in dress which after all gives the truest distinction. STYLISH TOUCHES FOR LAST YEAR’S GOWNS. Now that trimmed skirts are declared the vogue no woman cares to wear those that are absolutely plain, and now that flaring skirts are being made, narrow and straight ones seem out of place. But if you take out last season’s gowns and alter them a bit, and plan your new ones with reference to some tasteful feature of fashion you can be well dressed the season through, without having adopted exaggerations that cannot last. If it happens that your last season’s gown was cut from only a sufficient length and you have no pieces left, yon need not despair. Purchase pretty silks in a harmonious tone and make stuffed-piping sufficient for several rows ; or if the gown be heavy enough to warrant the use of velvet make them of that, either of plain flat tone or combining two or more hues that suit the colour of the gown.

If your ginghams seem out of date and are plainer than you would make them now, add quilling of ribbon, from two to four or six rows deep, as you may prefer or as the value of the gown suggests. If your India silk needs freshening, add to it some ruffles of heavy lace.

All these trimmings have the effect of adding to the fulness of the skirt at the foot, the distinguishing mark of this year’s styles. Many women of means make it a point to always remodel last season’s gowns, knowing they fill up many a gap left by the newer and later aduitions to the wardrobe. GENERAL FACTS ABOUT SKIRT TRIMMING. To perfectly cut and make skirt trimming of any sort, some few facts must be borne in mind. For rntties, puffs, folds, pipings, and indeed anything but pleatings, which just now are not much in favour, the material must be bias in order to obtain the right set. Straight materia) will not take the graceful folds that mark the well made ruffle, the perfect flounce. Pipings, such as are now in style, must be stuffed with cotton wadding, and every particle of the work requires to be done with care and neatness to get any satisfactory result. The preliminary basting must be peifectly done. STUFFED PIPINGS. To make stuffed pipings, cut bias strips two and onequarter inches wide, the length of the skirt at its widest part, and the same length of strips of cotton wadding two inches wide. Fold the wadding twice, so that it shall have four thicknesses and shall be half an inch wide, and then baste it firmlv along its entire length. Turn under one edge of the material just one-quarter of an inch, or the width of an ordinary seam, and baste it down securely.Then place the folded cotton in the centre of the bias strip and fold over first the raw, then upon that the turned edge, and hem the latter flat with long stitches that catch only to the cloth beneath. When that is done the piping will be complete and should measure just three-quarters of an inch in width. Repeat this for as many rows of piping as you wish. Baste the piping carefully to the skirt at whatever distance between the rows you may prefer, and sew it firmly into place, without allowing a single stitch to pass through the piping, lest it be flattened and lose its effect. PLAITED PIPING. Piping plaits are just now high in favour. They are really very simply made, yet are extremely elegant in either two or three rows, or as heading for a small flounce on any gown of sufficiently heavy material. To make one, cut three strips exactly as directed for the piping, excepting that you make each half as long again as the skirt is wide. Stuff and finish all three, then plait them evenly and smoothly just as yon would your hair, and sew the plait fast to the gown ; take pains to interweave the six ends so that the place of joining may not be apparent.