LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume X, Issue 13, 1 April 1893, Page 309

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

It is a curious fact, says a writer, that the Empire style still exists in'the Island of Martinique. The coloured belles still wear the costume much as it must have been in the days of Josephine, though whether the beautiful Creole carried with her the fashion of her native isle when she went to grace the Imperial throne, or whether her compatriots adopted it in compliment to her, I cannot say. A word on bonnets. The capote seems really the only original creation of the century. On looking back through times gone by, never has there been a head gear so infinitesimal, such an airy nothing, and it diminishes daily '. A hat called the ‘ Katinka ’ is most picturesque, rather in the Francois I. style, made in dark crimson velvet, and long flowing plumes most gracefully poised, fastened with a jewelled agrafe. A smaller one is the chapeau ‘ Marquis ’ in felt, a little in the Henri 11. form, the edge fluted and bent about; it is ornamented with two velvet choux ; from the centre of each rise an aigrette—of course, these can be made in black or any colour—but for full visiting dress and day ceremonials the capote holds its own, and is considered best taste to wear.

The first illustration represents a green velvet hat covered with black guipure, and trimmed with violet velvet rosettes and violet and green ospreys. Black velvet strings.

No. 1. The second illustration is a tailor-made gown in fancy knickerbocker tweed. Skirt to clear the ground at the back. The collar and panel of canary-coloured cloth matches the silk knots in the material and stitched edges. I recently saw a lovely dress, which I admired much, made by a French firm—of dark blue velvet, trimmed with sable. The skirt was cut in the same way as the above, but had three narrow rows of sable round, about an inch wide. The sleeves were also similar, but had a row of fur between each puff and round the wrists. In the front of the bodice a short fulled plastron of Indian yellow crepon was introduced, which gave just the touch of colour required to relieve what otherwise might have been rather a sombre effect, for the sable was of the darkest shade of brown. The Empire belt was edged with fur. Sleeves seem the prominent feature in dresses for the moment; they are wide and bouffant, and generally of another material and shade than the dress.

Out door winter garments are : Collets, straight cloaks, large kind of redingotes, with Watteau pleat at the back and loose in front ; velvet pelerines, with sable collars ; also graceful Talmas (very long and full capes) in various shades of cloth, lined with ermine, and bordered with sable. In tact, fur is to be much used this winter, and sable is most in vogue. Those ladies who are fortunate enough to possess these furs are sending them to be rearranged and made up in different forms. The etole or stole will be a favourite shape ; it is something like a short cape at the back, with very long flat ends in front continued from the cape.