LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume IX, Issue 31, 30 July 1892, Page 769

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

. ' (SEE FASHION PLATE PAGE 773. WINTER MANTLES AND COSTUMES. Winter mantles are invariably handsomer than summer ones. They are generally composed of materials which lend themselves better to rich trimmings than do summer goods. Fur, velvet and brocade, plush and heavy broche are all delightfully cosy and handsome—ay, and very expensive too. The first figure in the illustration wears a new threequarter cloak in plush and matelasse, trimmed with coque feather and silk passementerie. The back is stylishly arranged, and is fastened to the figure at the waist. The second figure is also sketched wearing a cloak of the fashionable three-quarter length. It is made of silk matelasse, with plush front and collar. The handsome turndown collar and revers are of black fox fur.

The third figure is depicted in a very stylish wavy fancy cloth gown or a soft grey shade. The skirt has corded seams. The collar, cuffs, revers, and waistcoat are of plain heliotrope cloth trimmed with jetted velvet and large jet buttons. The muff is of heliotrope cloth and grey plush. The hat is of grey felt trimmed with heliotrope feather and plush. The fourth figure is magnificently dressed in rich sunset brocade, and dark green velvet. The sleeves are made in the latest style, and combine the two materials. The brighter hues of the costume are effectively toned down by a quantity of jet passementerie. The bonnet is very chic. Green velvet is its foundation, whilst shade sunset strings, to match the brocade, are tied under the chin. A little feather trimming, terminating in an ostrich tip, completes the chapeau.

* Heloise ’ has sent me rather an elaborate description of gowns worn at the Queen’s Drawing-room. Ido not think a long list would be of much interest to New Zealand readers, so will merely quote a few of the prettiest. I note first that the English papers pride themselves on having prophesied a majority of brocaded trains, and now rejoice that the ladies, or their dressmakers, have proved them correct. A great number of the brocades were woven in England. The Duchess of Montrose wore a splendid brocade in tones of rose and carnation, deepening from pale pink to a tint bordering upon orange. Her bouquet was a beautiful and artistic composition of white and gold orchids, tied with ribbons matched exactly to the tints of the brocade.

Lady Carew wore a very becoming dress of pink satin trimmed with fine lace in a soft tone of cream colour. The train was a cream brocade with a design of miniature roses. A garniture of pink feathers formed a dainty finish about the shoulders, and clusters of similar feathers were introduced as a trimming upon the skirt. The train was arranged in a new way, being brought round and across the front of the bodice with a sash-like effect. It will be remembered that Lady Onslow’s gown of buttercup yellow brocade and gold-starred white muslin was somewhat similarly arranged for this same Drawing-room.

Mrs Arthur Wilson’sinagnificentdressof pale green brocade with floral sprays in amethyst and gold was accompanied by a train of green velvet lined with amethyst and trimmed with priceless old Venetian point. Mrs Wilson’s bouquet was composed of dark crimson roses, each with a lordly length of stem which made these lovely flowers almost unique. Her daughter, Miss Muriel Wilson, in white and silver with Court train of some transparent white material, carried a bouquet of lilies and caladium leaves. Lady Mosley’s beautiful green velvet train, lined with white satin, was worn over a white feather brocade on a ground of moire, with a jewelled belt of gold and silver. The Duchess of Bedford’s rail figure looked its beet in a dress of pale mauve satin, the front embroidered very handsomely in silver. The train, of bright mauve velvet, was lined with satin matching that of the dress. Princess Heinrich of Pless, presented on her marriage, wore her beautiful wedding train of white and silver brocade, lined with quilted satin and trimmed with white lilac and lovely lace, over a perfectly plain white satin Empire dress covered with a single veil of the new ‘ raindrop ’ tulle, which is scattered over with round silver dots, looking exactly like rain on glass. Falling straight from the neck and unconfined at the waist, to which it is fitted by invisible seams and by no means tightly, the effect of this underdress is extremely beautiful.

One of the most striking dresses was that worn by Miss Madock, all cardinal brocade and velvet embroidered with gold, the brilliant tints being carried out in a bouquet of scarlet anthuriums and yellow orchids. Lady Alice Packe wore one of the most beautiful dresses present. The train was in mauve brocade with a design of shaded pink and yellow roses over a dress of the palest green nroire, veiled with tine lace. She carried a lovely bouquet of shaded roses, and presented her daughter in a tram of white brocade, the oesign showing daisies brocaded on white. This was worn over a petticoat and bodice of the softest white silk muslin, trimmed with clusters of lily of the valley. Her bouquet was all lilies of the valley.

Wool costumes are de rigueur for street and travelling wear, and one can readily see the consistency of Fashion’s decree, that banishes jewellery from out-door toilettes. ‘ It is considered an indication of vulgarity to mix the Hash ami glitter of jewels with the plain street costumes of to-day, says a good authority on the subject of dress. Jewels are reserved for indoor and evening wear, and the only pieces permissible for out-door wear are a small inconspicuous brooch and earrings—the very fashionable woman does not even wear the latter—and the watch, with a small chain and tiny ornament attached. The stick pins now used for fastening the narrow velvet ties that adorn many, I might safely say all, of the hats and bonnets are correct, but bangles, bracelets, etc., are notin good form. The usual number of rings can be worn, as the hand is supposed to be gloved when on the street ; but good taste demands that working women shall wear only one or two plain rings, at

most, during business hours. Stick pins are one of the season’s fads, and several of them are worn at a time, to hold in place the ruffles and lace that adorn the neck and bodice of indoor gowns. Fancy hairpins are another fad, and, like rhe stick pins, are used in any number that suits the wearer's fancy, and style of hair dressing. They are also reserved for indoor wear, and may be just as fancy or elegant as one’s purse will permit. Gold beads, worn around the neck or twisted around the arm for a bracelet, are very modish; and brooches when worn, are round, with little stick pin and tiny chain attached. Watches are often tucked inside the collar, the pendant chain serving in place of a brooch. This is a very handy place to carry these little affairs, if only one fastens the pendant chain, so the watch won’t slip down out of reach.