THE VICE-REGAL TOUR

New Zealand Graphic, Volume IX, Issue 13, 26 March 1892, Page 298

THE VICE-REGAL TOUR

OVER THE ALPS WITH THE GOVERNOR

FROM CHRISTCHURCH TO THE WEST COAST.

(BY

OUR SPECIAL ARTIST.—SEE ILLUSTRATIONS PAGES 300-301.)

THE WEST COAST SOUNDS. I'T'ER enjoying a lovely outing on Lake Manapouri with Mr Murrell, we reluctantly got refw ’y next day for the homeward trip, intending to P from Manapouri to the West IbjWTr®’ Coast Sounds, via. the Bluff, by steamer, accordingly bidding good-bye to our host and hostess, Mr and Mrs Murrell, who, in spite of all present inconveniences, made us exceedingly comfortable, and it is to be hoped that in the future they will be amply rewarded for their plucky venture in building an accommodation house for tourists in such a lovely and interesting country as that which surrounds Lake Manapouri. The road (if such an appellation can be given) from Manapouri to the ‘ Key ’ Hotel is over undulating tussock country intermingled with some swampy patches, and makes

travelling very bumpy for light vehicles. We safely reached the * Key,' where Mrs Bench had lunch ready, so having a short halt there we pushed on to Lumsden, arriving there in good time for dinner. INVERCARGILL. In the morning we were aboard the train at Lumsden bound to Invercargill, which was reached the same day. The next day His Excellency proceeded to Riverton, and had a hearty welcome there from the inhabitants, being presented with an address of welcome. As the Hauroto had arrived at the Bluff with the Countesses of Jersey and Galloway on board, the whole of His Excellency’s party left Invercargill to proceed to the Bluff there to join the Hinemoa, which was to carry the Vice-regal party on an excursion to the famous Sounds of South West Otago. PRESERVATION INLET. Everything being in readiness on board, the good ship Hinemoa, under Captain Fairchild, steamed out of the Bluff with a lovely calm sea bound for Preservation Inlet, a lovely harbour about eighty-foui; miles from the Bluff. We rapidly steamed along the coast, getting a lovely view of Stewart’s Island and the other numerous islets which abound in the vicinity. Crossing Tewaewae Bay (a deep indentation of the coast) we rapidly approach the Puysegur Point Lighthouse, which stands prominently on a high headland. A short distance off lies Coal Island, which we round, and then enter Preservation Inlet studded with islands, and all clad with verdure to the base, being backed up by the fine masses of mountains lying towards the interior of the mainland. The principal peaks are Bald Peaks (3,380 ft.), Solitary Peak (3,270 ft.), on the right hand side, and on the left Treble Mountain raises its head 3,390 feet high, the Rugged Peaks (4,360 ft.) forming the background behind Long Sound. We proceed slowly up the inlet and enter Long Sound by a very narrow passage. Steaming along, new views present themselves at every bend the steamer rounds, the whole scene being beautifully reflected by the placid waters, unruffled save by a flying shag or a frightened penguin, who quickly dives down and propels itself at a great pace under water, both legs and wings being brought into active service. A lovely trip is brought to a termination by the steamer rounding and returning to Cuttie Cove, a charming little bay near the entrance to Preservation Inlet. CUTTLE COVE.

Remaining here for the night we had a fine sunset effect on the high ranges, the colouring being of the loveliest tinting as the orb of day settled down in the West. Plenty of fine fishing can be obtained here, groper, bine cod, and other tine fish being very abundant, and greedy in biting the bait. There has been considerable prospecting for gold

in the neighbourhood, and at present some half dozen men are engaged prospecting Coal Island with very good results by getting small nuggets of gold, but the gold, as a rule, is exceedingly fine. CHALKY INLET. In the morning, the weather still lovely, we lifted anchor and soon passed Chalky Inlet, the next harbour to Preservation Inlet. Coasting along past Cape Providence and the S.W. Cape the country is about 3,000 to 4,000 feet high, and very rugged. DUSKY SOUND. We steam on, passing South Point, and then enter Dusky Sound with its numberless lovely islands, the largest of them being Indian Island, Long Island, and Cooper Island. Away on our left lies the large Resolution Island, the near end of it terminating in the Five Fingers Point, a fantastic cluster of rocks of various heights and of sugar-loaf formation. Steaming along the Sound, passing island after

island, we at length espy a habitation on the left-hand side. This is where a Mr Docherty spent a number of years prospecting the surrounding country for auriferous and other minerals, being fairly successful. It was also in this sound that Mr Reischek, the notable Austrian naturalist, spent such an interesting time with his celebrated dog Caesar, who succeeded in capturing numbers of the rare native birds for his master. We steamed right to the head of Dusky Sound, and stayed there a short time, then we came back through the inside of Cooper’s Island through a deep, narrow channel, the surrounding mountains rising up about 4,000 feet high, and very precipitous. BOWEN CHANNEL. After passing Cooper Island we turn around to the right through the Bowen Channel, which here divides Resolution Island from the mainland. The scenery along this channel is very fine, the forest coming right to the sea level, and as we steam along many pretty waterfalls are constantly brought in view, many of them takit g their final leap straight into the sea. WET JACKET ARM. Speeding on about six miles we turn sharply to Jhe right again, and then slowly proceed up Wet Jacket Arm, where the scenery is very beautiful. We fell in with a school of porpoises as we were steaming up the Arm, and it was very interesting to watch their gambolling along the still surface of the water. Occasional rifle shots were indulged in by our party at them, but none took the desired effect of hitting them. On account of the enormous depth of the water the fish seemed to go almost alongside the rocks—in fact, it is so deep along the shore that the largest vessel afloat can be watered from some of the fine waterfalls. Anchoring at the head of Wet Jacket Arm for the night, we started early in the morning for George Sound. BREAKSEA SOUND. Still keeping inside Resolution Island, we pa«s through the Acheron Passage into Breaksea Sound, in which a lovely island called Sentry Island is located. At the entrance to Breaksea Sound, Breaksea Island is situated, keeping guard over the lovely Sound. After passing Breaksea Island, the coast line still presents a rugged appearance. Numerous patchy reefs are met with at intervals, but they do not extend very far off the shore. En passant, I may mention that Resolution Island is destined to be the national aviary for the preservation of native birds being as it is free from all our imported pests ; and where the native birds thrive remarkably well. There is no doubt bnt if the Government secure the Little Barrier in the North Island, with Resolution Island in the South, it will be of national importance in years to come, for what with the

stoats, weasels, ferrets, cate, etc., our lovely native birds are doomed to extinction on the mainland, and it is only by preserving these islands that we will be enabled to retain specimens of our fast-decreasing birds. The next Sound we pass is Daggs’ Sound, and as it is not very interesting we pursue our way to Doubtful Sound, which is more rugged and grander than any of the preceding sounds. DOUBTFUL SOUND. The left side of Doubtful Sound is composed of Secretary Island, which is about twelve miles long. We steam up the Sound, which gets more and more rugged as we approach Smith Sound, which is the name given to the middle portion of the Sound. The mountains on the left are very high and snow-capped, whilst on the right numerous waterfalls are seen coming down, forming lovely cascades in places nearly 2,000 feet high. HALL’S ARM. We steam on till we reach the end, which is called Hall’s Arm, and the scenery here is of the wildest and most romantic description. Two lovely islands keep sentry in the foreground, their forest branches touching the water in places. On the right a huge beetling perpendicular cliff rises from the water about 3,000 feet high, whilst away at the head the snow-clad summits glisten in the bright sunlight. It is with regret we notice our good ship points her head outwards again from this lovely spot. Retracing our course as far as Woodhead, we steam np Bradshaw Sound for a short distance, but it is not nearly so pretty as Hall’s Arm. We then keep to the inside of Secretary Island, and reach the ocean again through Thompson Sound. Being beautifully clear and a perfect calm, the spin along the coast to George Sound is thoroughly enjoyable. On the way we pass the s.s. Herald coal-laden bound for Dunedin, and amidst waving of handkerchiefs, etc. we soon glide past her. We pass Nancy, Charles, and Caswell Sounds in succession, but do not enter them, being intent on reaching George Sound, where we anchor for the night in a charming Bay.

GEORGE SOUND. Here the course can be seen for the regatta, which is held here by the • Tarawera ’ excursionists on the various trips, numerous buoys being placed for the various courses. A grand waterfall, or rather cascade, is seen close by the anchorage tumbling down at a great rate. Above the waterfall a pretty sylvan lake called Lake Mary exists, and is a charming resort for the * Tarawera ' picnickers. George Sound is somewhat grander than the others we have passed through, the mountains here rising up very abruptly for a height of about 4,500 to 5,000 feet above the sea, and completely hemming you in with their weird massiveness. The great feature of all these Sounds is the luxuriance of the native flora, for on all sides of you is found examples of all the Southern forest—giant pines, birches, beeches, etc., and the way some of them cling on to the granitic rocks is something extraordinary. No doubt their remarkable growth is due to the copious rainfall, which always keeps so much moisture in the crevices of the rocks. Starting early in the morning, our destination is now for Milford Sound, about 28 miles from George Sound. Bligh Sound is the only indentation between George and Milford, and we pass by, it being similar in aspect to most of the others. From outside George Sound alovely viewof Mount Pembroke glacier is obtained, standing up in a lovely pyramidal form glistening under the morning sun. MILFORD SOUND. St. Aon s Point at the entrance to Milford is soon reached, and the steamer being eased down, we soon are among the giant cliffs which keep guard over the entrance. Rising up on our right 5,560 feet is the famous Mitre Peak, with the light

fleecy clouds clinging to it forming s picture of wonderful effect of light and shade. Pursuing onr course slowly along, regarding as we go all the marvels of former glacial action, we suddenly come in sight of the lovely Stirling Falls 505 feet high, but their height is dwarfed by the proximity of the gigantic cliffs here abounding. The * Lion ’ Rock rises up about 4,000 feet above the sea level, whilst behind it as we proceed toward Harrison Cove Mount Pembroke gradually opens up 6,710 feet high, the lovely glacier with which it is crowned now showing up in all its purity. We cruise around Harrison Cove admiring, the weird grandeur all round us, which is really awe-inspiring when one thinks of the multitude of years that it took the glacial action to carve out such a wondrous locality as Milford Sound. BOWEN FALLS. Skirting the shore from Harrison Cove towards the head, we come in sight of the Bowen Falls at the head of the Sound, which are one of the sights of the Sound. To .be fully appreciated they ought to be seen after a. heavy rain, when the roar from the volume of water pouring 0ver. 560 feet high is something to be remembered. To give an idea of the force of the water, some of the misty spray was driven right on to the steamer, which was anchored fully half a mile from the foot of the Falls. The Union Company have now laid down moorings opposite the Falls for the convenience of mooring their steamers whenever they

visit the Sound. Donald Sutherland, the famous explorer of this locality, has now completed the erection of a hotel for the convenience of people who care to live for a time in this charming Sound. Two large rivers flow into the Sound near Sutherland’s, viz., the Arthur and Cleddan Rivers. There is a charming lake about two miles up the Arthur River called Lake Ada, and the surroundings are remarkably grand, but the abundance of snags in the lake rather spoil than add to the beauty of the scene. There are several lovely rocky islets, which are of most curious shapes. A fairly good track leads from the month of the river to the lake and is much appreciated by those who desire a trip to the lake and back. It has been formed by the prison gang, who have their quarters on the banks of the river near the mouth, where substantial houses have been built for their accommodation. They are getting on very slowly with the road works, being, no doubt, delayed by the constant bad weather so prevalent in these parts. The view from the head of the Sound looking towards Mount Pembroke is of the grandest character imaginable. On account of the surrounding grandeur any one object is terribly dwarfed, and distance seems a mere nothing. For instance, no one for a moment would believe that it is about five miles from the Bowen Fall to the Stirling Falls by looking at them across the Sound from one to the other. There is no doubt that anyone in want of scenery of the most sublime and grandest variety should pay a visit to Milford, and if possible stay some time, so as to see it in all its aspects. To see it in sunshine and to see it in rain are sights which can never be obliterated from one’s memory. During the stay of two days at Milford many opportunities were given to explore the vicinity, but really one could spend a month very easily. Here His Excellency secured several specimens of live native birds—kiwis, kakapos, etc. —intending to try and rear and carry them to England. Photographing also formed no small portion of his labours whilst we were in the Sound.

Time being up for our visit to come to a close, we left Milford in the afternoon homeward bound for the Bluff again after a remarkably fine weather trip throughout. A splendid passage followed, the ocean being wonderfully calm, so that we arrived about 11 a.m. at the Bluff the following day, and as His Excellency had the farewell festivities to attend at all the centres of population on his journey up the coast, he proceeded with all haste on to Dunedin.