THE VICE-REGAL TOUR

New Zealand Graphic, Volume IX, Issue 8, 20 February 1892, Page 172

THE VICE-REGAL TOUR

OVER THE ALPS WITH THE GOVERNOR.

FROM CHRISTCHURCH TO THE WEST COAST.

(BY OUR SPECIAL ARTIST—SEE PAGES 176 180 81.)

VISIT TO GREYMOUTH AND PUBLIC RECEPTION.

N the morning of December 31st we left Kumara in a drenching rain by tramway for Greymouth, a distance of about fourteen miles. The tramway runs through a lovely pine forest as far as the feremakau bank, where we crossed by a cage, which is worked over the river on wires by an engine. A feeling of pardonable trepidation is experienced when, after stepping into the cage, one feels the novel conveyance rushing with lightning speed

—IIUVCI CUIIV CJ tIIJVC I ÜBU4UK «4VH “ ~ down the slackened wire on which it runs, almost touching the rushing swirling river, which is now in flood consequent on the continued rain. The cage, howaver, bears you safely up the other incline of the wire, and a sense of relief is expressed as you emerge on terra firma again. < in the other side of the river we entered the section of the tramway which runs to Greymouth along the seashore, a distance of nine miles. At a small station called Paroa we were met by the Mayor (Mr Mathieson) and councillors of Greymouth, carriages being provided. We were rapidly driven into Greymouth, where the volunteers and band were drawn up in front of the Gilmer Hotel to receive His Excellency. An adjournment was made to the balcony, where His Excellency was presented with an address of welcome, when a little speech-making was indulged in, after which an adjournment was made for lunch. Afterwards all drove to the racecourse at Omoto, about one and a-half miles from Greymouth, to witness some excellent racing between the local racers. In the evening His Excellency was entertained at a Mayoral banquet, held in Gilmer’s Hotel. About fifty guests sat down to a splendid repast, and speechmaking continued till near the close of the old year. As it was announced that a fireworks display would be held at midnight, we all adjourned outside to witness the torchlight procession and fireworks display conducted by the Greymouth Fire Brigade. A really creditable performance was provided, rockets being sent up to an enormous height, whilst at intervals coloured lights illuminated the whole scene, forming altogether a very brilliant send-off for the year 1891. VISIT TO REEFTON. In the morning (January Ist) we were up early to catch the nine a.m. train for Reefton, distant about forty miles. The first place of importance is Brunner, eight miles, where a large colliery exists, the coal being brought down to (freymouth for shipment by rail. Before reaching Brunner we pass by a monument erected to the memory of a poor fellow named Dobson, who was cruelly murdered by the notorious Sullivan gang, and was buried here by them. A pleasant little township now exists here called Dobsonville. Just beyond Brunner the railway line passes through a tunnel, and traverses a fertile valley where numerous pretty home-

steads exist. The railway passes along the right bank (or left bank proper) of the Grey River, crossing it near the little Grey junction by a fine substantial bridge. We follow along the Mawhera-iti River, which takes its rise near Reefton. The train only goes as far as Tawhai, about five miles

from Reefton. The remainder of the journey has to be done by coach, and it is a very pretty drive over the saddle, through which the Midland Railway Company have pierced a tunnel, and expect to have the line finished by next February. It should have been opened before now, but a tremendous slip occurred which cost the Company nearly £20,000 to clear away.

Reef ton is a very pretty little town situated on the banks of the Inangahua River, and contains about two thousand inhabitants, who are mostly

occupied in the gold-mining industry. At Reefton we were met by the Reefton Band and County Chairman and Council, who presented an address to His Excellency. After a brief stay we went on to Crushington, a pretty little village about tw'o miles up the river, where a picnic was being held, and all seemed to be enjoying themselves. INANGAHUA. A short stay sufficed here, so we returned, intending to start for the Inangahua junction at 4 p.m., a distance of eighteen miles. After a very pleasant drive along the Inangahua Valley we reached the ferry punt of the Inangahua. Embarking horses and carriage on it, we were soon across the river, and arrived at the accommodation house about 8.30 p.m. As a good number of holidayseekers were present our accommodation was very limited, but the landlady, Mrs Lloyd, did her utmost to make us comfortable for the night. VISIT TO WESPORT. We started again in the morning for Westport, but a heavy mass of boulder having slipped across the road near the White Cliffs caused a stoppage. A waggonette, previously ordered, met us on the other side of the slip, and with a rattling good pair of horses we had a lovely drive along the picturesque Buller River, arriving at the Nine-mile Ferry at noon. The Buller River scenery is of the wildest and most ro-

mantic description, and I may safely say is not surpassed by any other river in New Zealand. It is very similar in character to the Wanganui River of the North Island, but I have not the least doubt that a trip down the Buller from the Inangahua junction in a boat is equal to any trip to be obtained on the Wanganui. The scenery around Hawks’ Craig is particularly striking. Numerous accidents have occurred on the river through the swift rapids, and the road has also not been free from accident. A well-known waggon, dubbed Noah’s ark, had several spills over the precipices which abound along the river. At the Nine-mile Ferry we were met by the Mayor and councillors of Westport, the County Chairman, Chairman of the Harbour Board, and other provincial officials. A procession was formed and we were driven to the town, where the Volunteers, Cadets, and Foresters were drawn up to receive His Excellency, and an address of w’elcome was presented. The procession then reformed, headed by the band, marched to the Empire Hotel, where the party stayed. After Innch we all embarked per special train for Denniston, accompanied by the Chairman of Directors and directors of Westport Colliery Company, also numerous officials connected with the colliery. The train runs a distance of twelve miles to Denniston, which is the loading place. The coal is brought down for shipment in trucks through a long tunnel. Denniston is a village situated about 1,900 feet above the railway station, and is reached in two ways by a steep in-

cline railway, which in one part is 1 in li grade. It is a cable railway worked by a very powerful engine on top. The weight of the descending truck propels the empty one up the steep incline at an alarming rate, doing the two miles sometimes in two and a half minutes. Another track is a most circuitous winding one of about three and a-half miles around the steep cliffs of the gorge. This is a lovely walk or ride, and is very enjoyable if made in the evening, when the glow-worms illuminate the steep banks around you. The view from Denniston is of a most panoramic and lovely description. Standing on a limestone eminence, the deep gorge lies right under your feet, with the pretty Waimangaroa river threading its silvery way through the gorge and across the plain to the blue Pacific. The pretty little village of Waimangaroa also lies mapped out, as it were, at your feet. Leaving our horses at Denniston a walk of two miles brought us to Coalbrookdale where the colliery company have their workings. Being holiday time, we were unable to see the colliery in full swing, but the system of haulage by cable was fully explained to us by the manager, and the boys gave us a sample of their alacrity in hitching on and detaching the waggons to the cable while in motion. On returning to Denniston we were kindly shown the working of the enormous engine which controls the different sections of cable line. . After a thorough inspection of the workings we all adjourned to the Denniston Hall, where a sumptuous repast was laid out, and about fifty sat down. After doing justice to all the viands provided the tables were cleared, and numerous toasts and speeches were proposed and responded ," e then all descended the hill to catch the train which was waiting for us, and which quickly returned us to Westport, when we went straight on to the Town Hall. Here the Westport Harbour Board presented an address of welcome and the plans of the harbour to His Excellency for perusal. Another address and a splendid lot of photographs of the West Coast were also presented to His Excellency, These proceedings terminated a very pleasant stay at Westport, and we left again in the morning at 7.15 on the 3rd of January cn route for Greymouth, travelling by coach to Reefton, and then by continuing the journey by special train, reached our destination in twelve hours. In the morning (Monday, January 4th) we all left for Kumara to attend the races. The day turned out very showery, and rain fell pretty heavily during the progress of the races. The fields were very small, and, indeed, the racing of a mediocre description. RECEPTION AT HOKITIKA. In the morning (Tuesday, January sth) we were early astir for Hokitika. Leaving Kumara at 8.30, we had a lovely drive to Hokitika, arriving there about 11 o’clock A large crowd assembled at the Town Hall, where His Excellency was presented with an address of welcome by the Mayor on behalf of the citizens. As this address is a fair

example of the many which were presented to His Excellency in the course of his tour, I quote it in full: — 4 We the Mayor and councillors of the Borough of Hokitika have much pleasure on this your first and in all probability your last visit in tendering you a cordial welcome to our town. In view of your approaching departure from the colony, we would desire to express our appreciation of the exemplary manner in which you have fulfilled the various high offices entrusted to you as Governor of this colony by our beloved Sovereign. It is pleasing to us, as indeed it must be gratifying to you, to find that in those parts of the colony with which you have been most intimately associated, not only are the expressions of regret at your departure deep and sincere, but that you have gained so much of affection and respect. We have little to show you in the way of modern embellishments of modern cities, but as some evidence of the value of local institutions we would point out that a little over twenty-five years ago the site upon which our town now stands was a dense and almost impenetrable forest, but that it now possesses some twenty miles of well formed streets in addition to many other works which conduce to the comfort and convenience of the inhabitants. We feel assured that you will be much impressed with the physical characteristics of the southern portion of this district and trust that Queen s weather may enable you to enjoy them to the full. We regret that you are unavoidably unaccompanied by the Countess of Onslow, whom rumour tells us has won golden opinions from all classes with whom she has been brought into contact. We trust that you may be long spared to pursue a career of usefulness to your Queen and Country, and that every blessing may be vouchsafed to yourself and family.’ His Excellency in reply said : 4 1 thank you for the cordial welcome you have extended to me on the occasion of my visit to your Borough. The expressions which you are pleased to make use of respecting the manner in which I have endeavoured to discharge the duties imposed upon me by Her Majesty the Queen as her representative, are extremely gratifying. The manifestations of appreciation which have found utterance in other parts of the colony, to which you refer, could

not have been made had it not been that there is everywhere a disposition to take the most favourable view possible of the actions of the Governor, out of respect and veneration for the illustrious Sovereign of whom he is the humble representative. That you should have received me in the cordial manner that you have done, although personally unknown to you, is a further illustration of what I have just said. lam looking forward with pleasurable anticipation to a visit to the southern portion of Westland, and from what I have already heard I do not anticipate that I shall be otherwise than as greatly impressed with its characteristics as your address leads me to believe. I have to tender to you my most sincere thanks for the blessings and good wishes which you have been good enough to invoke on behalf of Lady Onslow, my family and myself.’ VISIT TO MAHINAPUA LAKE. After the addresses presented on behalf of the County of Westland and the Hokitika Harbour Board had been suitably replied to, an adjournment was made to the wharf, where we embarked in rowing boats for a pull up the Mahinapua River into the lake of the same name. The day being lovely, with a slight breeze, the trip was really most enjoyable. About ten boats took part in a procession up the river, which opens up many pretty scenes. Stately kahikatea trees, with the luxuriant scarlet - blossomed rata, intermingled with the numerous parasitic plants and ferns of the New Zealand forest, made a series of lovely pictures at each bend of the river we came to. In the shady nooks the reflections of th? forestry on the placid bosom of the river were exceedingly striking. On emerging into the lake a view of surpassing beauty and grandeur presented itself to us. Away in the blue distance could be discerned the majestic snowcrowned summit of Aorangi (or Mount Cook), towering high into the ethereal regions with a line of fleecy clouds clinging round its base. Nearer still the bold stupendous line of the ■Southern Alps comes gradually in aerial perspective to you, while the lovely blue lake of Mahinapua lies nestling, environed with forest at the base of the great mountains. We now pull across the lake to a fdeasant landing-place, where unch is provided. After lunch the excursionists ramble round enjoying the lovely scenery, and away in the deep recesses of the forest others wander to collect ferns and other beautiful plants which here are most prolific. A aignal is given when all return so the boats, which, by the way, tre now decorated with ferns and other plants, making an imposing ami picturesque spectacle as they wend their way in procession across the lovely blue

lake. A great deal of fun and merriment is caused by the homeward trip down the river, as the young oarsmen have friendly spurts to keep up their respective positions in the procession, some through bad steering getting foul of the overhanging shrubs, etc., which line the river. We all eventually land safely at the wharf again after an enjoyable day’s outing, and I should advise all who visit Hokitika not to leave it till they have made the trip to the Mahinapua Lake by boat. In the evening a banquet was given at Keller’s Hotel to His Excellency, at which about sixty were present. It was a great success. (TO *BE COXTIXUED.I