THE HOME OF THE NIGHTINGALE AND THE ROSE.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume VIII, Issue 43, 24 October 1891, Page 508

THE HOME OF THE NIGHTINGALE AND THE ROSE.

SHIRAZ is a Persian town, the name ot which is associated with some of the most romantic episodes of Oriental literature. It has many most interesting features about it, with much that is charming in its surroundings. The site lies upon a very fertile plain, and its rose gardens scent the air for miles around. These together with its nightingales inspire many of the songs of two of Persia’s most celebrated poets, Hafiz and Saadi, who were both born at Shiraz, and lie buried there, their tombs being held in great veneration by all the people. A Scotch artist thus describes a day spent at Shiraz : He had permission towpaint in the Governor’s house and in bis courtyard and garden. While he was sketching, the Governor asked him to paint his portrait. While he sat for the portrait he transacted his legal and court business, with scribes and secretaries squatted around him and the artist. The administration of justice was a remarkably expeditious process. No time is spent over long-winded discussions on legal points or in trying and sentencing criminals. There is no weak indecision or red tapeism about the Begler Begi ; he makes up his mind in a minute as to the merits or demerits of every case and claim ; no one dares argue with him, and with a sign he orders here a nose and there an ear to be cut off, or so many sticks to be broken over some poor wretch’s feet.

The Governor posed very well for his portrait considering his official distractions. Suddenly eight or ten men rushed into the courtyard or garden, and a letter was placed by them on the ground, containing the news that his father, who was leading an expedition against some robbers, had captured both the robbers and the village where they had been harboured. Drums were beat, and singers went about the town chanting the praise of the father’s bravery and skill. Strolling dancers, who had heard the good news, entered the garden with monkeys, in order to give a performance, but they were dismissed with a present. Breakfast was then suddenly announced. Water in a silver basin and a towel were produced. The usual custom in Persia is to eat squatted on the floor, but, in deference to the stranger, a table had been provided. Round the edge of the cloth, which was a fine cashmere fabric, was laid a continuous row of thin flat loaves, overlapping each other. Each loaf was of the shape of a pancake, of about three feet long to one and a half broad. These pancake loaves serve at once as plates, cloth protectors, and bread. About one dozen china basins held as many kinds of edibles. There was ‘ mutton broth, with mutton floating amongst the fat, roast knuckles of bone, balls of meat and vegetables in green gravy, roast lamb with prunes (a first-rate dish), two curries, vegetable marrow preserved in honey and sugar, dates, butter with the sour milk remaining in it, pancakes, etc., and, in front of the host, a huge plate of rice. ’ There were three at breakfast ; directly eating began talking ceased, and the whole meal was finished in silence. As a matter of courtesy, dainty bits selected from different basins were piled upon the guest’s plate, and there being no ‘ courses,’ the plate was soon filled with an olla-podrida of mutton, dates, pancakes, rice, butter, etc. Basins and silver ewers of deliciouslyscented rose water were at hand, and all indications of having eaten a typical Persian breakfast, without knives and forks were at once removed. This over, the kalione, or water-pipe (the constant companion of man, woman and boy in Persia), was handed round.

The artist’s servant having received a hint from one of the attendants that the garden would be required in the afternoon, when the artist saw black servants coming with gilt cages containing nightingales, he took the hint and left. The Governor’s wives intended to spend the afternoon in eating sweets among the roses, and the garden had to be made, if possible, more lovely and pleasant than it generally was. The beauty of the garden beggared description. It is surrounded by a wall twenty feet high, ponds with goldfish being cunningly distributed throughout it, and the air is heavy with the fragrance of roses, lilacs, orange trees, verbenas, and lilies. The perches of the nightingales’ cages that were carried into the garden were wrapped round with turkey red cloth, and the floors of the cages covered with a like material. The modest-looking bird appears out of all harmony with its surroundings.’ The cages are hung among the orange trees, and the voices of the little prisoners soon attract the wild birds. By sunset the garden has a melodious chorus, singing ‘ in full-throated ease,’ and the music lasted long into the clearest of moonlight nights.

* Far off, and where the lemon grove In closest covertjire upsprung, The living airs of middle nignt Died round the bulbul as he sung.’ Thus it is in Shiraz to-day as ‘ it was in the golden time of good Haroun Alraschid. ’