THE POPE’S CHAPEL.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume VIII, Issue 28, 11 July 1891, Page 150

THE POPE’S CHAPEL.

The grand mass is celebrated in the Sistine Chapel on the anniversary of the death of Pius IN. Only two or three such services are held in the Sistine Chapel during the year and very few besides the clergy and officials can be admitted. The Swiss Guard stand on duty, dressed in the wonderful combination of red, blue and yellow designed for them by Michael Angelo, which defies description. They carry spears about six feet long, which look as if they might have come out of the tower of London, and are altogether most unique. Quite a crowd was waiting, the ladies in black with black lace veils on their heads, the men in dress coats and white cravats. When the signal was given there was a grand rush up the staircase, ana as we were among the first we got excellent places in the chapel, on benches directly behind those reserved for the diplomatic ladies. We had a long time to wait as the Pope was late and mass did not really begin until 11, but we were well-enter-tained watching the various celebrities arrive, and learning who they all were, and in enjoying the beautiful chapel. The sunshine could not have been brighter, and we had a fine chanee to study the beautiful paintings. An Italian lady next us knew all the people and told us who they were. The diplomates were simply gorgeous. Some in blue and gold, others in brilliant scarlet with various orders and decorations; some in blue and silver, altogether a dazzling collection of uniforms. Then, to add to the picture, the aisle was lined with the Swiss Guard and many of the Pope’s own guard were on duty. Of these latter there seem to be three grades : the lowest wear dress suits, with the white expanse of shirt front covered with very beautiful gold chains, fastened together in a curious way, almost like a harness, also a broad red ribbon. Then come the Camerinia in black short clothes, black silk stockings, and pumps with buckles ; black cloth coats, with a great deal of b'.ack velvet let in, the tops of the sleeves large puff's of black velvet, plain cloth below, and deep cuff's of old lace, a velvet belt, with silver buck'e and sword, and a black velvet cape gracefully draped over the left shoulder. Magnificent gold chains around the neck, or rather around the shoulders ; then above a red ribbon and above that a very full white ruff, most picturesque and becoming. Then come those who are nearest the Pope. They look more like soldiers, wearing tightly buttoned coats with gold epaulets, a great band of gold across the chest and helmets of gold and silver, very, very, magnificent, but not so becoming as the dress of the Camerinia. Soon the Church dignitaries began to arrive. Between thirty and forty cardinals in long purple, each with a train-bearer, ermine capes and scarlet caps. Many bishops and all the orders of monks were represented. The chapel is so small, and it was soon crowded—a wonderful mass of colour, to which the ladies, all in black, made a good contrast. Just before the Pope arrived the servants of his household came in. They were all in red of a splendid colour, silk stockings, knee breeches of velvet brocade, all of the same shade of red ; long coats of same, back and front and sleeves of plain red silk ; at the collar, two long lace tabs, pieces about three inches wide and seven or eight long.

Now to the service. The Pope entered through a small door, attended by some of his guard and a number of cardinals. They all knelt in front of the altar ; then the Pope, surrounded by cardinals bearing his train, ascended his throne. He was dressed in white, with a very magnificent red cope, and on his head was a silver mitre. As soon as he was seated mass was said by four Bishops, all in green and gold ; then came the music, the finest we have heard—only voices, no instruments. The Pope took a small part of the service and his voice rang out clear and strong, but he looks very frail and feeble. He is eighty. When the host was raised everyone in the building kdelt, and there was profound silence—a most impressive moment. The service lasted about an hour, and then the Pope left as he came. It was a beautiful sight in the ante-room as we passed out; a company of the Pope's soldiers were drawn up on either side, presenting arms, and many of the diplomates and clericals standing about—such a picture as only this old world could give us.— Letter of a Lady.