MADAME LA MODE HERSELF AGAIN.

Patea Mail, Volume XLIII, 17 March 1919, Page 4

MADAME LA MODE HERSELF AGAIN.

FASHIONS IN WAR AND PEACE

THE REACTION

“I must got a new frock!” There may bo better ways of celebrating the advent of peace than buying new clothes, but it is as natural to feminine nature as a drink is to a man. Drapers and dressmakers have had a busy time. The fashions have hardly altered, but there are signs that women want something more sumptuous than the utilitarian garments of war time. Tho feminine mind has been too busy with war work to give much thought* to th 0 subject of clothes. The creative powers of the great dress designers have* been hampered by the shirtage of materials, the dearth of trimmings, and the fact that their customers were reluctant to adopt extravagant changes. In laid. Madame la Mode lias been hard hit by the war, but she is an indomitable lady, and wi.T rise triumphant with lie advent of peace, in no way disabled by the wounds to her self-es-teem, WIDE SKIRT VICTORY. What have been her achievements since the summer of 1914? Her greatest victory was the wide skirt. Her plans for it were secretly laid in the tipring of that year. For six seasons wo wore our skirts fulled and wide, then economical reasons—considerations which Madame la Mode had hitherto scornfully ignored—narrowed our lower garments to the single trouser shape now in vogue. It took a Government edict to effect this change —Madame would never hao submitted to anything less —for in France it was forbidden to make a skirt that required mor« than three and a half yards of stuff.

Tho coat or chemise dress—that onepiece garment so appreciated by Miss Late-a-bed when the breakfast gong has sounded, for it can be put on in a twinkling and fastened while descending the stairs —is a war fashion that will remain in peace. The jumper blouse originated since 1914, but neither of these innovations does Madame great credit she can do better any day of peace. It is really in tlio details of dress that fashions of war time differ from those previous and —no doubt—to come.

The most remarkable effect of war was th 3 paucity of detail in tho smartest frocks. Perfectly plain gowns on long lines, exquisitely cut from supple satin, wool, or crepe de Chino were, and are, the most admired wear both on the stage and in the social world. MeXal thread stitching, or an extremely small ration of embroidery, were the only details permitted on these war-time frocks. Curiously enough, tho humble, homely buttonhole stitching was a finished applied to many of tho most chic war frocks.

SPORTS COATS. Stockinette was the pre.eminerit war material. In wool —although so suggestive of underclothing—it achieved a great success. Shiny sports coalts of tlio same weave as our transparent* “silk” stockings, so beloved by tho shopgirl, came,' and will probably go, with tho war. But enough of tho past! Who cares for the fashions of yesterday? Some authorities say the ruffles, ringlets, and elaboration of Early Victorian styles are coming in again. Reaction against the severity of uniforms and the. sobriety of war fashions will carry women to the fussy femininity of fichus frills, and drapery. If wo do make such a radical change we shall have to alter our. habits of Hfe_ as well. Year cannot dance the writhing, wriggly jazz music in the tight, stiff bodice's of 1840. As for crinolines — that threat has lost its power; no woman will feel the slightest apprehension when she hears it. Madame la Mode may have a rude awakening if sh© thinkis she is going to have it all her own way hereafter. Comnionscnse and good taste are more prominent in the make-up of the woman of to-day than they were in Queen Victoria’s time It seems more likely that avo shall lake our inspiration from tho ora of reconstruction that followed the French Revolution. The Diree.toire. and First Empire fashions are m aqcord with modern taste. Shall wo adopt the short waist, puffed sleeves, and flea*.in<f scarves associated with the faithless Josephine? L. V. S.