COPY of JOURNAL OF SIR DONALD MACLEAN. that it was with difficulty that I made the next station, where I spent the night. At 7 in the morning started from -----, called at Irangahoi, where I was very much grieved to find the sad state of religious fanaticism prevailing amongst the natives, originating from a false impression of the doctrine of repentance. One young girl I saw in a state of madness, going round every two minutes to shake hands with her friends, saying she was influenced by the Holy Spirit in doing so. The shaking of hands generally was of a most unusual kind, nearly pulling your arm off every time they shook hands with you; and several of the people, even their teacher, had an appearance of langour, and as if he were getting no sleep or rest, occasioned by the excited state of his mind, and which, (amongst the natives) will have an effect that cannot be easily estimated. Some of the Manuwapo natives had gone to Patea, others were writing to Mr. Taylor respecting their new doctrine, and imagined that the Revd. gentleman would have coincided with a belief which I am sure he dreads and is trying to suppress as soon as possible. Met Mr. Hough on his way to Waimate, requested me to warn the natives against the foolish tikanga they were adopting. He stayed with me, and with him were a few natives requesting his advice on the subject, which was that he considered the influence they laboured under, a satanic influence, and wrote a strong sarcastic letter to point out how much they were going astray. I also wrote them on the same subject in more general terms, fearing that passing this matter over un-noticed would have a serious effect. Stopped at Mr. Hough's, Patea, had service with them. Had a long conversation with m. Neira of Manuwapoa, who seems to have considerable influence over the natives. Rain in the morning; started from Patea at 10 o'clock. Got to Ihupuku at half past two, had some roasted potatoes for my natives, and started from there for Wanganui. Coming along the beach, the tide was furiously dashing against the rocks, and nearly high water; the boys following up in rotation, with the black servant William, behind, who was nearly carried off by a wave and was lost the whole day, causing me great anxiety. The natives and myself got on a small hillock, out from the roughness of the sea, waiting for him to come up. One had started after him, then I went myself, but could see nothing of him. This was a sad feeling, having walked about 30 miles that day, and then to lose my good and faithful Sambo. About 12 o'clock at night we made another search with lighted fire-sticks, but no sign of William. I was glad to see the natives so zealous in the search, and greatly affected, so much so that they would not eat any food till he was heard of, or seen dead or alive. About break of day another search was to be made. We had then got to Kai Iwi, and pitched our tent, sung a hymn, and prayed together in the dark wilderness, - when behold, about 6 in the morning, William made his appearance! One of my boys, Pirika, met him about half a mile from the tent. We all welcomed him, and whilst cooking our breakfast, gave a detail of his wonderful preservation by climbing up a steep and rocky cliff, on the top of which he slept all night. Got to Dr. Wilson's about 12 o'clock after a good blowing on the road from the sand blowing in our faces. Received a kind and welcome reception. Dined there and had a great treat, having drunk of some of the finest wine that ever was produced at table. It was 55 years old, from Cyprus. Viewed his garden and fields, and was highly delighted with his experience and useful knowledge on the treatment of plants, trees, and vegetables, and the soil with the results of several useful experiments. This gentleman is a highly qualified member of his profession, and an acquisition to any place wherein he locates himself. Called at Capt. Campbell's and Mr. King P.M. Mrs. Campbell invited me to tea, and she was delivered of a fine young girl that same night. Afterwards I came to Mr. Taylor's at the Mission Station, who had just returned from administering the Sacrement to the natives at Waikanae, and others along the coast. He came a distance of 40 miles that day, with his son Basil. He and his delightful and truly interesting family - such are rarely or scarcely ever to be met with in the colonies - and from all of them I received a kind and hearty welcome. Our conversation was principally on the state of the natives with the new fanatic tikanga. Walked about with Mr. Taylor in the garden, and with his children in the afternoon. Saw most of the Putiki natives. Visited Rangitauwai, who I suppose had sent out invitations to the tribes of the interior to come down to Wanganui. Also called at Mr. Bell's farm; had tea there. Wrote to Mr. Whitely, informing him of the state of affairs at Waimate. Dr. Wilson dined at Mr. Taylor's. Went to Wanganui with Mr. Taylor. Bought some things for my journey; an ink bottle 3/-; paper cutter 2/-; postage for Capt. King, 2/-; Mr. Brown, Waimate, 1/4; Mr. Smith, publican, 4/-; for boys, Wm, servant, 5/- each. Goods from Watt. Attended Native and English church; a class of natives in the evening. Made our preparation for our journey. Went out with Capt. Campbell to Cameron section, which has a very unfertile and hilly appearance; but was received by that gentleman with his usual hospitable manner, which the Highlanders are so distinguished for. Shot a pigeon. All ready for a start at 10 a.m. for Taupo; but there was a difficulty in getting the natives to leave their kumera plantations. We were detained till the following day. Mr. Taylor performed an operation on my tooth, which after many severe tugs, he could not succeed in getting out, the instrument being too large. The most beautiful ladies' bags are made at Wanganui by Miss King and Mrs. Taylor; also ladies' mits, that exceed in delicacy and neatness any that are made now of the finest silk. The colours are all of New Zealand bark - the dyes much more endurable than any of our British, and improved by washing. It is very probable that in time they will become an article of export. Started from the Mission Station at half past nine in the morning. Slept at Tarikino Moutis Kainga, after a pleasant row up the river. Started at about 8 a.m. Called at several Pahs; Opiriki - where an European is stationed; and a beautiful waterfall. Slept at Hikurangi. Travelled over a rough bushy road from Hikurangi to Mangowero River, where we had a very dangerous descent from a steep hill of 2 to 300 feet. The general appearance of the country is wild, rugged, and uninhabitated. The wood is generally very handsome; amongst them the beech or Tawai, Rimu, Rewarewa, Wairangi, and various smaller kinds of timber. From Mangowero to Ararawa river, where we spent the Sunday. When we got here it was late in the evening; pitched our tents, and rested. Natives complained of fatigue. The appearance of the country we passed was wooded and level. Some very rich soil, intersected with - - - -, a few plains from 10 to 20 acres intervening. Spent the day at Ararawa river. Forenoon, service by Mr. Taylor, delivered in the wilderness, was both pretty and impressive. Had a walk in the afternoon, after a sumptuous dinner of wild duck, killed by a gun. Started at seven in the morning through a flat country, rudely wooded, with a rich, alluvial soil. About 3 miles of our road was covered with high beech or Tawai trees, giving a handsome and majestic appearance to the scenery we passed through. The land they grow on is rather marshy. When out of this wood, we came into the finest plain of land I have seen in the country, resembling that of Bathurst, New South Wales; with a river, Waitakururu, running down the centre. The soil is rich and fertile, of a red and dark sandy loam, with occasional swamps; and entirely covered with grass of a coarse description, that the natives call Poteka. Slept by the side of Waitakururu river. Went in search of duck, but could not find any. The wren were in sight; shot a small teat. Our bivouack was a most comfortable one, highly scented with the young manuka bushes, on which we made our bed. Walked along the plain, which has a delightful appearance, and would be a fine estate for a grazier, as it is. For 20 miles on the road we travelled, very rich soil with tolerable grass, and watered. Mr. Taylor informs me that it extends towards the Patea river South, about 60 miles, and of a similar quality to what I have just described. Slept on the side of a small river named Tutanaghakino. A part of the country we passed through was of a light, sandy volcanic description. We passed a small river they call Wangahu, and another called Waikato, where we killed a beautiful small bird, with a dark breast, striped with yellow and grey feathers. Started at 8 in the morning. A heavy oppresive day, over volanic remains of buried cinders and lava, which is the general character of this part of the country. Mr. Taylor planted some furze seeds, and cranberry, and other seeds he received from Miss Hough of Taranaki. Our natives complained of fatigue and hunger; so we were obliged to give them most of our own flour and rice; and on meeting Paratene, one of the Taupo chiefs living at Wanganui, we had a few roasted potatoes for them; and Mr. Taylor went to Wanganui where he had an opportunity of forwarding some Totara bark to Mrs. Taylor by him. We got to Roto-Ira, a beautiful small lake of Taupo, about 5 in the evening; and were very kindly received by the natives. The old Chieftainess was exceedingly kind, and we were much struck with her majestic and graceful appearance, and with her kind, hospitable manner; which brought much to my recollection of the good old chiefs and their ladies of bygone days, before they had intercourse with civilized man. Mr. Taylor distributed some books, etc; and gave the old lady some soap on leaving. Several natives attended service, and seemed to evince a most friendly disposition towards Mr. Taylor, who takes every pains to promote their social happiness, and in his illustrations on various subjects, I was both pleased and edified; and observed the impression they made on the natives. This morning we had service about 6 in the morning, Mr. Taylor baptising 4 natives; distributing medicine and books whilst I conversed with the natives, and then came on our journey through plain and forest to Herekikia's place at Taupo lake, where we visited the Hot Springs, where one of the most wonderful phenomena of nature was to be seen at one of the springs, wher after an elapse of 5 minutes, a gust of boiling water from a pond 3½ fathoms deep, making a noise similar to that of the Gulf of Coryvreckan, near Jura; and a great trembling and rumbling sound is heard underneath, as if the eart were going to open up and receive the traveller who is on the surface, into the everlasting Gulf of Perdition. No person could see this place without feeling intensely the awful end of a miserable sinner, when committed to his last home; and may God in His providence prepare us all for such a serious change, and enlighten this portion of the inhabitants of the earth, and bless them with prosperity and happiness. We came to the Rapa, the residence of the chief of Taupo by the side of the lake. On our approach the old chief had three or four shots fired in honour of his guests, and gave us a kind reception. He enquired after several of his acquaintances, Native and European, and talked for some time about Hone Heke, saying that he thought he would be a match or more, than one, for the Europeans; that Hongi, his father or uncle, who went to England to see King George, advised him to be friendly to the Pakehas, both -----? and Missionary; but should it happen after his death, that a flagstaff be erected in New Zealand, he was to be careful in preventing the erection of one on his territories, as the intention would be to possess the land, and deprive his country people of their rights; that Taraia was not anxious to join or take part with Heke; that he was himself, looking on quietly, but would not divest himself of a friendly feeling towards him, as a man of the same colour and country as himself. Having had some dinner, I passed the greater part of the afternoon with him, when he told me that there was still a very strong feeling on the part of the tribes of Taupo and Rotorua, especially the Ngatipikiau tribe, headed by the chief Rapi and Matangi, who sent Heuheu a basket containing a quantity of ready-mage cartridges, as a token that they were disposed to attack the Ihupuku Pah, and try the strength of those who collected there last year, as well as to be revenged for some of their relatives that were killed in the engagement at Patoka; which Heuheu fired off as a sign that he was not inclined to use them for that purpose; that his desire was to have peace, and through them it was preserved up to the present time. At the same time, he could not altogether suppress the warfaring propensities of other tribes; that they were at present waiting to see what Heke's end would be; that procrastinated warfare at the North caused the greatest excitement throughout the land; and that he found a difficulty in keeping the tribes around him in proper subjection; but as a token of his own disposition to both Europeans and Natives, he was sending his women and children to Wellington with mats of Kowai as presents to Rauparaha and Ngatata; and he did not wish to conceal from us that there is still a strong disposition on the part of the natives to have more fighting; that the Mission Started from New Plymouth about half past twelve for Wanganui and Taupo. Slept the first night at Hauranga; the weather disagreeable and raining. Wind W.N.W. In the morning parted with Mr. Webster, who came with me to Hauranga, and pursued my journey in wet, heavy weather, meeting with the several natives at their places as I came along, making enquiries as to the new doctrines that had just sprung up amongst some of them, of seeing the Almighty and His angels. Some even stated that they were God, and were able to baptize with the Holy Spirit, and were was not well disposed and wanted to make themselves greater than they had any right; that was one cause he did not join them, that he had a great regard for all European Missionaries, and regretted the Bishop was not placing one at his place; that he had a great regard for Mr. Taylor, and was very sorry he could not receive him and myself better; that he would be always glad to see us, and nothing gave him greater pleasure than seeing respectable Europeans ar his place. We intended to have pursued our journey, when it was considered more advisable, as Heuheu wished it as well as Iwikau who was unusually friendly and kind, both to myself and Mr. Taylor, whom he had insulted on his previous visit; and told that gentleman if he came more frequently he would be inclined to become a Missionary, but that he was insulted by the natives, who were very proud of their religion; but as he was so kindly treated by Mr. Taylor, he could not forget his friendship, especially in the present he gave him while at Wanganui. It is much to be regretted that that gentleman could not visit this neighbourhood more frequently. The result would be in a more kindly feeling existing towards both Europeans and natives; even if they did not adopt religious principles for a time, the good advice and example set them would be felt not only at Taupo, but in every part of the Island. Iwikau thanked me for my interference in seeing he was paid for his and his brother's pigs; and had it not been settled, he would ere now have tried the strength of the Europeans as Heke was doing; but as the affair was settled to his satisfaction and my interference, he found it had saved him from being shot by the Iwihua natives, and he had consequently become more friendly to all Pakehas. Heuheu informed me that the several tribes as far as Hauraka intended this season to visit Ihupuku; that even then if Hauraki Tarais te Horita were to join, that it was only through his influence over them that they had so long refrained from an attack. He then gave me the several names of the chiefs that intended to come from Rotorua and the Ngatipekiau ...... It is from all appearances evident that great excitement exists amongst all the tribes, and their intentions are to return in a great measure, to their old habits; and the innumerable feuds and grievances that have lain dormant for years are likely to be renewed, the consequences of which will be serious to all our European settlements; and requires the utmost exertion on the part of every person interested in the peace and tranquility of the Island; which induces me to visit as many of the chiefs as I can, and accompany Mr. Taylor to Rotorua. Visited the Puias which seem to be fast diminishing. Took samples of the calcimised matter which we found there. Handed Mrs. Heuheu some little presents for her husband and self, also to Iwikau and to Newman, an European, who is entirely dependent on Heuheu and his tribe for sustenance. He was living with a native woman, and was advised by myself and Mr. Taylor to get married. Had prayers with a large and attentive congregateion of natives, some of whom were baptized; and several who formerly received Mr. Taylor very cooly on his former visit, were most frank, and evinced a better feeling towards him. Mr. Taylor married Newman to the native woman that he had lived 18 months with at Taupo; and after breakfast, Heuheu got a canoe ready for us, and accompanied us across to the landing place to the next Pah north of the Rapa. Coming along in the canoe we had a long conversation, in which I was pointing out the benefits conferred on Taupo by having Europeans at Wanganui; in how much it would be to his interest to behave well to them, mentioning that that was Turoa's desire before his death, with a strong recommendation for peace amongst all his relations; reminding them that he had been a man of War, but now he wishes all that to die in the grave with him; that they had all come in our canoe together and ought to be friendly. I took this opportunity of advising Heuheu to peace, and Mr. Taylor pointed out the evil consequences of war, the loss of life etc; He replied that a grandson of Turoa's had been to him, but had not told him a word of his peaceable intentions; that he wished he had known it sooner, and if Turoa had expressed himself to him when he put the question twice to him at Wanganui, to be friendly to the Europeans, peace would long ere now have been permanently proclaimed, as far as he was concerned. But as regarded the Pakehas at Wanganui, they need not be alarmed, he would say that they would be safe whatever happened. He then went on to state the desire of several chiefs, even as far as Hauraki, to attack Ihupuku; and requested me in the strongest terms to accompany Mr. Taylor, and visit all those of Rotorua mentioning them by name. He showed his houses at this Pah, which were very handsomely built, and neatly carved and fitted in old native style; also another he had built for Mr. Chapman. We then bade him farewell, and in doing so, he urged us to visit him; and regretted he had not more means at his disposal just then to receive us more comfortably. From there we came to Waimareno, where we found a very zealous set of natives, with an excellent man as teacher, named Hakepa; the natives under his tuition being more advanced than at any place at Taupo we had been to. After schooling them for an hour or two, we came on to the Matuteri Maniapoto's place, where we found the natives in a sad state of backwardness, arising principally from the want of a clergyman amongst them and I could not but observe that in the short time we had with them how charming they were in their manner towards us, occasioned by Mr. Taylor's and my lectures the true Bishops and Disciples of Christ. My replies were short as I did not wish to be involved in any religious party dissension, though I regretted the state in which I found the natives, and advised them to lose no time in enquiring from their clergymen, both Mr. Bollard and Turton, as to what they had seen, with a full confession to them of their feelings. Slept at Wairua, a beautiful place, perhaps the sweetest spot to be met with on the way to Wanganui; and there is a little grove of trees, - angi-angi and Karaka, with a streamlet of water on each side of them. Several portions of land along here are to them on the apparent impropriety of their behaviour. It is a great pity that the duties of Mr. Taylor were not less arduous at his home station, that he might visit this portion of the country. Came on to Orova where one of Mr. Taylor's boys was taken very ill, that detained us for a time at this Pah. The natives are rather better than at the last. They have a good large chapel, and their anxiety for us to remain a day with them induced us to stop there. Killed a pig, and we had by our own natives ducks killed. Mr. Taylor baptized some natives, one he named Wikitiri, and another Laura after Mrs. Wickstead. The natives here informed us that Heuheu was still desirous to go to Ihupuku, but that he was not so much so as the young chief Herekiakia. Started from Orana at 8 in the morning, along the banks of the river, picking up several Kokopu, the largest fish found in the lake. Some of them are about a foot in length; but generally 7 and 8 ins; and when there is a constant wind from the South West for a few days they are driven on shore in the surf, which makes as great a noise as if it were a sea beach. Some of the scenery round the Taupo lake is very pretty, especially one spot on the North end, where they appear to have cultivations and houses. We had several ducks, on which we fared heartily, and found them the most delicious and largest sized ones we ever met with. This may probably arise from their not going to the sea water. We met three Europeans from Maketu, that had their vessel wrecked. The owner's name is Pemble, lately a publican in Wellington. We offered them food, but they were as well supplied as ourselves. We got on to a small lake called Rotokanau, and pitched our tents for the night, having had a good glass of wine, after our fatiguing journey. The water of this small lake is unfit for use, from the quantity of sulphuric acid and alum contained in it. We managed it by putting in some carbonate of soda, which is a great improvement. This lake abounds with ducks. The general character of the country after leaving lake Taupo and along the Taiowharo mountain, is level, but perfectly barren and useless; with a few scattered bunches of wiwi grass growing over a pumice soil, with occasional Thias, presenting the appearance as you travel along, of an open burying-ground, and the whole road appearing equally barren and cheerless twenty six miles. We started in the morning and got to a small settlement on the Waikato river, Te Takapau, where we found about 12 church natives. Our natives had good food cooked for them here. The chief of this place has become a Missionary, and seems to know a great deal more of his old Pakeke customs than of his new religion. His name is Tekiri. From this place we travelled along some distance and dined on New Zealand fare, potatoes and pork. Called at Hokiki Pa where there are a few houses. Found no natives. Came on to Waikato river, where one of my lads swam across to the opposite side to fetch a canoe. We were all glad to find there was no one to ferry us. We encamped about 3 miles beyond the river. This day we journeyed about 20 miles. Had a very snug spot for our tents with plenty of fresh water. At half past seven we started, and got to a small planting settlement, about five miles from our encampment, (a sketch of which is drawn in the end of this book by Mr. Taylor). Had some potatoes for natives. Paewa is the name of the Kainga. From there we came to another small plantation where there were several natives. Dined there, and proceeded on our journey, through a barren, sandy country, with a good deal of up and down hill; and encamped where there is a beautiful road running through a small patch of timber land, named Pakaraka. Left our encampment at six in the morning, when two natives met us, and informed us that Archdeacon Brown had passed through to Taupo and Heretonga on Tuesday The first little lake we came to is named Mututawa, with a small Pikopo settlement on its banks, with another on an island of the same name in the centre of the lake opposite to which is the Opiha Pa. From thence we had a canoe to take us over the lake, and crossed to Tarawera lake, where Mr. Spencer, an American in Deacon's orders lives. From Tarawera we crossed Okarika and dined there. When we passed through a small patch of forest land were in sight of the Ngai, Mr. Chapman's, to which place we got at about 4 p.m. I met the young man stationed at Maketu, as Assistant Protector, and heard of the arrival of Major Grey, late Governor of South Australia, as Governor of this Island Capt. Fitzroy had left Government House and was living at Dr. Sinclair's. Mr. Chapman was endeavouring to get across the lake in front of his house to hold a Committee over some natives who had stolen some goods at the late ----- ? at the Bay of Islands. The wind being unfavourable, he was obliged to put back, and we had the pleasure of his company that evening, and I felt very pleased with his frank and kind disposition. The country round here and the scenery is far from what I expected. It is throughout barren and unfertile, unfit for grazing, and cultivation, beyond the wants of the natives who seem to be short enough of provisions for themselves. The lakes possess rather a pleasing aspect, but the neighbourhood is intensely cold and frosty; so much so that many vegetables do not thrive, such as French beans. English fruit trees appear to do well, and Mr. Chapman's garden is very well stocked with them. We had an excellent gooseberry tart here. The gooseberry bushes are well stocked this season. In my interview with the natives I was glad to find they had given up a desire for warfare, and were industriously pursuing their agricultural pursuits. They concluded a peace with several tribes with whom they had contended for years, about an island on the East coast, Mutu-Iti; and their older men had agreed to leave the land in peace for their children and successors; and as Hikairo is the principal leader of the tribes, I wished in accordance with an understanding with Heuheu, to see him before I returned. Attended Church in the forenoon. Mr. Taylor preached to the natives, and had English service also at mid-day. In the afternoon Mr. Chapman preached. The natives appeared very attentive to the several discourses throughout the day. Walked in the garden in the evening, thought how lovely it was to view the work of the Lord, shown in the plants and flowers of the fields. At six in the morning went with Messrs. Chapman and Taylor across Rotorua lake, which is estimated to be six miles broad. We landed at a small settlement, where we found a few natives, amongst them some there I knew from Hauraki. There we had breakfast, and in walking round, saw several fruit trees, well stocked. We passed through another settlement, where there is a large chapel going to ruins, now being occupied by the natives, that have been lying waste for years; but I regret to find that they are all under fears of the Taupo tribes, and are fortifying their Pahs when they ought to be employed planting and sowing, but cannot be divested of the fears they are under. Got from Wairua at half past eight in the morning, dined at Umuroa; find all the natives greatly taken up with the new tikanga, several of them asserting that they had seen the Almighty; and others of them that disbelieved this folly, wished very much to see Mr. Taylor and Bollard on the subject. Wrote from Otumatua to the latter gentleman, where I slept that night; and had a long conversation with Hori Kiwi and Tamari the chief. in consequence of the natives being more scattered in their several habitations than at the time when it was built, when fear of the enemy kept them collected at their fortified places. After which we started and arrived at Hikairo's place, who is the principal chief of this district, and possesses great influence over his tribe. Mr. Chapman had a settlement of some differences with the teacher, about some stolen goods from Kororarika, that were returned; and some misunderstanding existed as to whether the teacher ought to return to his office. It was arranged, however, by Messrs. Taylor and Chapman that at the expiration of one month he should resume his office when this affair was settled. I conversed with Hikairo, who was glad to hear Heuheu's message, and said that he had become a Missionary, and his desire for war was at an end; that he hoped peace would be restored throughout the Island; and that all grievances would be forgotten in their newly acquired religion, to which alone he wished to adhere; and if there were a few who desired war in his neighbourhood, their influence was so small that no dependance could be placed on them. They resided at Mututawa; and he was desirous I should see them. In the evening we got back to Mr. Chapman's, Mr. Smith and Grey having left for Maketu the same morning. Wet, heavy morning. Went into the Infant School at Mr. Chapman's, which is very well conducted under the Superintendence of a Miss Corney(?) The progress the children are making is highly satisfactory. There is sometimes about 30 scholars, girls and boys from 4 to 8 years of age. After dinner we walked out to the Hot Springs, and picked up several specimens of wood that had undergone a process of petrification. It was so heavy and raining that we could not see any distance. The plains of Rotorua that I discerned are barren and valueless. Mr. Chapman informed me there was a very rich sub-soil, but so deep as not to be available in ploughing. From this gentleman I had some interesting accounts of Hikairo, the native chief; also a short history of the Ngapukiau tribe, who, about 300 in number, still continue heathens. This morning visited all the Pahs in the neighbourhood of Mr. Chapman's, and had long conversations with the natives who were anxiously enquiring if the Governor would be desirous of war or peace; that they were all afraid he would be inclined for the former. If so, it would be a serious thing, and would arouse the jealousy of all the tribes in the Island, who were only looking on to see what the result of Heke's war would be. I was sorry to find among them some men who had returned from assisting Heke at the Bay of Islands, who were giving very untrue versions of the different engagements, and I could see they were striving to escite the bitter disputes against our cause. On my return from those Pahs I was delighted to meet the old chief of Maketu, Pukuatua, with whom I had a long conversation and found him a sensible, well-disposed chief. He told me that he was the principal instrument in causing peace with Tauranga, respecting Motu-Iti, a place that had for years been contended for; that he wished to see the people of Taupo and the West coast conclude a peace, and let all the natives be of one mind; and let peace reign throughout the length and breadth of the land; that towards next harvest a large body would march to Ihupuku from Taupo to conclude a peace, when they would go so far as Kapiti, with every assurance of a friendly disposition on his part, and with the same on my own evinced towards him, and all the peaceable chiefs, by the Europeans. We were about to part, when he wrote a friendly letter through me, to the West coast, asking me what chief lived there - that he would only send a message to a chief. We bid good-bye, dinner being ready at Mr. Chapman's, who supplied us plentifully with provisions for our journey, and took us in his boat a few miles on our journey, where we walked about 5 miles and came to Ohinemutu Pah, where we stopped for the night. The Pah is very thickly populated, and there are many very interesting young children, most of whom knew their British alphabet, and could count from 1 to 100 with ease. They also knew a few words of English, and there is great credit due to the resident Missionary, Mr. Chapman, who seems to be doing a great deal for the rising generation. After a long interview with the chief Horokai, respecting his intentions, I was glad to find he evinced a most friendly disposition; and was disposed to act in accordance with the peaceable intentions of the Pukuatua. I gave him a little present of tobacco, and told him that I hoped he would continue to live in peace and quietness till I could again visit him. I then visited Ngapopa, a young chief, next to him in importance, who I found a sensible, quiet man. He told me that all the chiefs of Rotorua were likely to visit Ihupuku in harvest, to conclude a peace with the natives of the West coast, having removed their fears as to the intentions of Government. I bathed in a hot spring near the village, having a Ngatipawa boy as a guide, who began to cry when he first saw me, and told me that all the Thames chiefs were desirous I should return their way. The most remarkable features in this place are the immense number of hot springs in the very centre of the Pah, rendering it dangerous to walk about after dark, it being a complete subterraneous boiler of volcanic steam. It rained very hard until about half past 10 a.m. when we up tents and off, passing by some springs of hot water, and better soil than we met with at any part of Rotorua; rich and alluvial, principally of a dark reddish colour. About half past 1 p.m. we got to Arakari, a small pah, on the top of a very pretty hill, commanding an extensive view of the Rotorua lake, and giving a more favourable appearance of the country. At this settlement there are a few natives of the Ngatituara tribe. At the settlement generally there was a general feeling of patriotism, getting up in favour of Heke, and a belief that he would be joined by all the Ngapuhis in his next engagement with the English; that he had recommended all the tribes on the sea coast to prevent any landing of Europeans; that Rauparaha was again to commence his wars, particularly against the Pakehas. On our journey towards the encampment the only objects we met with worthy of notice is a large range of hills called Howhau, that look very romantic and grand. We got up to near the summit of the mount, but it did not well repay us for the trouble. The sun was setting, and the view was not so extensive as we anticipated. We planted a few seeds here of the passion, cranberry and billberry. Our encampment is a lovely spot. We all rested for the night comfortably and contented. The river is named Pukaraka. We left Pukaraka at eight in the morning, and travelled through a portion of hill and dale, but principally a flat country. This day will I hope, be remembered by me through life as being one in which I opened the secret recesses of my heart, and the various sins of my life; and my Reverend companion gave me the kindest and most friendly advice. My prayer is that God will strenghten him in the performance of his Divine office. His reverence Left Otumatua at nine o'clock, the boys having gone about 8 a.m. On the bank leading from the Pah, I followed a path that took me a considerable way of my road, and got lost in the bush for two hours, climbing and scrambling about, the proper line of road being no distance from the Pah, where you turn down the bank to the right along the beach. Got to Kaupukunui about mid-day, and had food cooked for the natives. Met a European there who is married to a native woman, and had several children by her. He lives about two miles inland, cultivates about six acres of land, rears pigs, and is likely to live comfortably. I wished him to call on me for some clothing for his children, and recommended him to try and give them some education, and instruct them himself. as a Christian will ever remain in my heart. Towards evening we came to Tokora, a curious rock like the remains of a Druidical building, where the roads break off, one to Rohuia, to Taupo and Matamata. Our guide was uncertain as to our course; and told us we could get no water further on, to guard against which we carried some, but found there was plenty on the road up to our encampment, where we got about 6 p.m. Had tents pitched by seven p.m. Started about half past seven, and got to Rohuia about 4 p.m. We were detained some time by William losing his road in the back country of Rohuia where there are many pig trades. We were fortunate eventually in getting a canoe to cross the Waikato. The natives found William and brought him back by 8 p.m. They needed a shave (?) and some tobacco. Was very much pained with the tooth that Mr. Taylor tried to extract. Prayers in the forenoon and afternoon. Mr. Taylor started at half past eight to go to Mr. Morgan's and intends to meet him on Wednesday at Taonui. There was a difference at his Pah in the morning, respecting a case of adultery. After it was settled I moved off and got to Ruahine settlement about half past eleven. The country that I passed through, except a few wooded spots cultivated by the natives, is a barren, sterile, fern soil, with several curious rocks scattered about, showing the awful state of the earth at one period in this part of the Island. The natives we came across since we left Rotorua are principally of the Ngatiraugawa; and I can say very little of their hospitality. It rained very hard all the day, and by the time I got to Piripiri Ngawaka's place, I felt very unwell with a most painful toothache. Went to bed about eight. Spent all this day at Rangitoto Ngawaka's place, and was greatly pleased at the kind reception I received from the Chief Ngawaka and his tribe. He ordered two pigs to be killed for me, one of which I kept, that it might serve Mr. Taylor's natives when they arrived. Being satisfied that the result of my visit here will be attended with good, I inclined to wait quietly till the arrival of Mr. Taylor. There is a European named Deighton living here, who appears to have had a respectable education. It is a great pity to see a young man of respectability thus spending the best part of his days. Had a long conversation with Ngawaka, who appears very quietly disposed, especially towards Europeans. About 2o'clock Mr. Taylor and his boys arrived from Mr. Morgan's of Otowai, a distance of 23 miles. I was very glad to see him safely back, and hear from him the kind reception he met with at Mr. Morgan's, and with a most friendly invitation to me to visit him, and make his place my home any time I went that way, stating that till a few weeks since they had never seen a Protector at their place, which was Mr. Forsaith who came to bid farewell on the part of Governor Fitzroy to the natives. We had our second pig killed, and intended to leave for Taonui; but as the Chief was absent, it would be uncorteous to leave, we thought. Spent the night there. Left Te Piripiri, better known as Rangitoto, about 8 a.m. and were followed by a good number of natives from the Pah, who were regretting our departure. The Chief's son accompanied us to Taranaki, where he is to have for his father my large new tent. Heuheu's son, to whom I gave a blanket, came as far as Piripiri on our way. We spent some time at Wanganui Pah, about 12 miles from Ngawaka, I could not make out whether the natives there are Roman Catholics or Mission. No good signs of either of benefitted them, although I am inclined to think from what I have heard of Mr. Morgan, that he is zealous and indefatigable in his exertions. When we left this place, we had a very hilly road to Taonui, where we pitched our tents about 3 p.m. Taonui talked about Heke; said if he intended to come near Auckland, or touch a flagstaff there, the Waikatos would very quickly put a stop to his proceedings; that he expected from what he had heard, that Taiaro intended to be in action as well as Heke, so that the former might not have all the credit for himself for fighting; that he expected that if Turoa were still alive he would give his assistance, and Rauparaha readily consented, making their first attack on Wellington and the Southern settlements; that Heuheu and himself had received this intelligence, but he would not be certain as to the truth of it; and if such was Tarara's intention, it disagreed with both his and Heuheu's desire to protect all Europeans in this Island, instead of any attempt to affect its peace and tranquility. Mr. Taylor told him that the Europeans were stronger than they, who had never been to England, could estimate; that their best policy would be to live in peace, and that was our desire towards them; and after giving him an account of the friendly disposition of the interior tribes, read him the letter of Pukuatua's, and relating Turoa's death, we left him for the night. Left Paripari at twenty past eight, and came to a pretty little stream. Mr. Taylor baptized a fine young boy, son of Lewis Hetet, his mother having met us on our way home, and her wishing to have her children educated as Protestants, availed himself of this opportunity. The child is named George, and I am bound to remember that he is a god-child of mine. About 3 we arrived at Wakatururu, and were kindly welcomed by Mr. and Mrs. Miller, as well as by their young smiling urchins. Had tea, and stopped a few hours. Was glad to hear a favourable improvement as to the conduct of the natives since my last visit. Talked some time with Paraonui, the Chief, and all the natives came on to the side of a small plantation by the side of the Mokau, where we are quietly squatted for the night. At 7 a.m. we left our encampment, and travelled through a rich fertile country along the banks of the Mokau, abundantly stocked with pigs. The soil is a dark loam, and I believe very productive. Our route lay in the valley between two ranges of hills on each side of the river which is from one to three miles broad. The first huts we came to are at Poporo, where we found no natives. At the next, some five miles further on, there were a few, who provided food for our natives; and by half past one we got to Ruakaka, where we waded the Mokau, and about four arrived at Mutukamumu, Mr. Riementchneider's station. The chief, Okuri, came there to see us, and told us that the natives of Waitara had vacated their lands and fled from them in consequence of a curse by one of the Ngatiawa tribe, which caused them all to leave. He said that his father had not heard of it yet, nor did he know how he would take it, but he would make peace if he would pay for the insults, as it was unbecoming those who were prisoners of war to insult their chiefs. The German Mission at this place consists of one ordained gentleman, and a farmer sent out by them to superintend cultivation. The native, Okuri, has given them about 10 acres of land in a good situation with the river between him and the Pah where there is another European named Jones living, who has a great garden with quantities of wheat and vegetables growing. The most untidy part of his establishment is his house, which consists of a few round sticks put up Got to Waimate, the station of the deceased Mr. Skevington about 7 p.m. His afflicted and desolate widow was in a better state of health and spirits than I anticipated; her child, a fine, healthy young girl about a year and a half old. Having condoled with her for a time, and hoped that she would not feel the severity of the late stroke beyond bearing, that she had every reason to thank God for His having called him away from her as his time was come, at such a place and under such favourable circumstances, amidst his friends and in the House of God, that these were all favourable aspects for her to reflect on, not only now, but in after days. From this I changed our conversation to the passing events, and alluded to all that might with nikau covering, such as the natives use for cooking. The natives have already adopted some of his modes of culture, and they are industriously pursuing their work. There are about 80 or 100 at this place, which is rather a pretty settlement in a part of the country that has scarcely ever been noticed by New Zealand travellers. It fully confirms an impression that I had previously formed, that it would suit well for an industrious German peasantry, used to the growth of the onion, which would, from the nature of the soil, be very prolific; and as there are already two missionaries of that country stationed there, they will act it is probable, as pioneers to the further establishment of a useful population on the Mokau. Crossed the river, and with Messrs. Riementchneider and Whiteman attended native service. Mr. Taylor preached, and gave us one of the best native sermons, and as appropiate to the place and people as could well be given, as those I have yet heard him preach. At 7 o'clock in the morning we started from Mutukaru. Were accompanied by the chief's wife and a guide, to get us safe over the rapids. The ground continued to have a level and fertile appearance. Mr. Taylor is employing himself in taking down the course of the river which winds very much, but is considerably deeper and easier to pull down than any of the rivers I have been to of the same size. After passing the rapids it is perfectly smooth; and with continual pulling we have managed to get to the Mokau, Mr. Shackenberg's station, at 7 p.m.; and find all at the Mokau station quiet, and considerable improvements around the Mission Station there. This morning Waitara chief of Mokau, held a long conversation about a -----(?) of one of the Waitara natives to Taonui, which he was sorry he had not known when I was at Piripiri, in order to a settlement(?) He talked about his vessel, and stated that he has got to pay 80 pigs, which are, by his account, ready; though I should rather doubt their being all ready. However I told him to get them ready, and I would write to Auckland by the first opportunity, respecting their being delivered to him. Having informed him of the friendly disposition of the tribes I visited, he appeared pleased, and said that European influence was now preventing all their warfaring propensities. About 10 o'clock we came to Kakawa Tikaka's place. At Tongaparutu we had a further conversation on various matters; and proceeded on our journey, but were stopped by the tide for several hours. Nor could we get on until about 11 o'clock at night, and walked till half past two in the morning, when we got to Waikamumu, and pitched our tents. At 7 in the morning we left Waikamumu, and got to a small station, newly occupied by a Waikato chief, that he claims in right of his wife, who belonged to the Ngatitawa tribe. Having settled some matters for this chief at Taranaki he received us very kindly, gave us a deal of information on various subjects as to the intentions of the Waikatos, which he considered friendly. After breakfasting at his place, and waiting one or two hours for the tide, we left, having promised him a quantity of seeds for a garden, and cuttings of fruit trees. Having come along the river where there are a few pohutukawa trees, and another river, both of which were easily crossed at the ebb tide, we came to Anairo, where there is a very excellent fertile land suited for cultivation. From thence to the Tanawa, where we met about 10 natives, who had landed from their canoes with abundance of sharks and other fish, offering to cook some for us; but anxiety to get on our journey, having already sent two of my men before us to get provisions procured for our arrival, we decided not to wait. About 6 p.m. we arrived at the Waitara, where the natives had fish and potatoes in abundance ready cooked for us, and as many fish as the boys could carry home for their own use. About half past six we started for New Plymouth, and got in by 10 o'clock at night, Mr. Taylor being ill with a cold he had got. Very much fatigued, we borrowed one of Mr. Cook's horses for him, which was a lift of three miles. Met Webster at Waiwapaiko, and was pleased to find a welcome smile on each face that I met on my return. We had tea and prayers, when Mr. Taylor went to bed, whilst I conversed with Mr. Webster respecting the natives. change the subject of the death of her husband, to others more cheerful. I was the first acquaintance of his who visited the station after his death; and certainly it presented a gloomy and sad appearance. I read the evening service, and felt how unable I was to perform such a serious duty in the absence to his long home of poor Mr. Skevington, whose family prayers and services at his own house were the most impressive and pleasing part of his ministerial performances of devotion. Mr. Arbute Brown prayed, and bidding all good-night, I slept in my tent. Spent this day at Waimate, and got another native to join me, that I had previously sent to carry letters to Mr. Brown of Messrs. Whitely and Turton's, informing him of the death of Mr. Skevington. Whilst here I wrote to Mr. Clarke for instruction respecting land purchases from the natives, and what part I was to take in them. Remained at Waimate till 7 in the evening, and started 5 miles on my journey. At Waingongoro I met the old chief Pakeke, who, with his followerd, appeared exceedingly friendly, requesting me to pass the night at his place. My natives having gone before me, I could not remain. He enquired what all the guns were landed at New Plymouth for, - if they were to destroy the natives, as that was the current report? After leaving his place it was so dark