Page image
Page image
Page image
Page image
Page image
Page image
Page image
Page image
Page image
Page image
Page image
Page image
Page image
Page image
Page image
Page image
Page image
Page image
Page image
Page image

•• PUBLIC LIBRARY

WANGANUI, NEW ZEALAND

CIRCULATING DEPARTMENT

RULES

1. The Circulating Library is open daily from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., except on Sundays, Christmas Day, Good Friday, and such other days as the Council may determine.

2. Subscriptions payable in advance—lo/- per annum, 6/- for half year. \ isitors may pay deposit of 5/- for each book borrowed and 1/6 monthly or 2d. per book. Deposits returned when tickets are cancelled.

3. Subscribers may borrow two books, a magazine counting as a book which may be kept two weeks or changed daily.

4. for overdue books a fine of Id. per day for the first week and 2d. per day after that shall be paid For books not returned or injured in any way, the subscriber shall be required to make full compensation for such books or set of books to which they belong.

5. Subscribers in arrears with subscriptions or fines not entitled to the privileges of the Library.

6. Subscribers may reserve one book at a time by paying one penny ; the book will be kept for 24 hours after notice is sent.

7. Subscribers may take extra books at three pence per book.

8. Change of address to be notified to the Librarian.

9. Subscribers are held responsible for any books taken in their names.

10. Subscribers shall, whether reading period has expired or not, return every hook borrowed within seven days after a notice has been published in any newspaper circulating in the City of Wanganui calling in books issued from the Library.

11. Books must not be borrowed or used by anyone suffering from any infectious disease.

12. No Subscriber shall partake of refreshments, or smoke, or spit, or strike matches in, or bring any animal or bicycle into the Library.

This eBook is a reproduction produced by the National Library of New Zealand from source material that we believe has no known copyright. Additional physical and digital editions are available from the National Library of New Zealand.

EPUB ISBN: 978-0-908327-94-2

PDF ISBN: 978-0-908330-90-4

The original publication details are as follows:

Title: Under Great Bear and Southern Cross : forty years afloat and ashore

Author: Share, Hamnet, Sir

Published: Jarrolds, London, 1932

UNDER GREAT BEAR

AND SOUTHERN CROSS

H.M.S. Wolverine, ToUrmaline at New South Wales. .88:. [Frontispiece Commodore J. C. Wilson Commanding Australian Station.

UNDER GREAT BEAR and SOUTHERN CROSS

FORTY YEARS AFLOAT '■

ANQ ASHORE 2/ I

By Paymaster-Rear-Admiral SIR HAMNET SHARE, K.8.E., C.B.

Foreword by ADMIRAL OF THE FLEET

THE EARL JELLICOE of SCAPA, G.C.8., 0.M., G.C.V.O.

JARROLDS Publishers (LONDON) Limited Paternoster House, Paternoster Row, E.C.4 MCMXXXII

MADE AND PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAII

AT GAINSBOROUGH PRESS, ST. ALBANS,

BV FISHER, KNIGHT AND CO., LTI

To the affectionate and everlasting memory of those who now rest from their labours with whom it was my privilege to serve

FOREWORD BY ADMIRAL OF THE FLEET THE EARL JELLICOB OP SCAPA, G.C.8., 0.M., G.C.V.O.

12

13

PREFACE

HAVING been committed to write my personal memoirs as a result of pressure from many friends since retirement, with reiterated advice not to wait until one was too old, the prospect seemed overwhelming and it may be that the advice passed too long unheeded. Looking back to the time of entrance into the Royal Navy and going to sea in 1880, one’s thoughts became a jumble of people, places, and dates crowded with past events and the attempt to unravel the mass seemed wellnigh hopeless, were it not that I had kept almost continuously a short daily record, so scanty that it is not worthy of being termed a diary, except during the Great War when anything of that nature was strictly forbidden. However, this has proved of the greatest possible value as a foundation on which to work.

Memory for details after the passage of years is treacherous, and it was a wise and foreseeing man who wrote :

“Make a note of it at the time, a note is worth a cartload of recollections.”

It has been remarked that Naval Officers can generally say where they were at any given date, and certainly the Service life parcelled out in blocks of

PREFACE

21

years on Stations abroad —with spells in home waters, tends to mark periods well in mind. In the old days ships’ commissions were generally for three years certain, and often longer, while at present absence from home rarely exceeds two years.

My first ship was over four years in commission, but this was close on fifty years ago.

H. Hamnet Share

London

January

1932

15

CONTENTS

PACE

Chapter I 1880—1885

19

Detached Squadron — Madeira — St. Vincent, Cape Verde Islands—Monte Video—Falkland Islands — South Africa — Australia — Fiji — Japan—China - Egyptian War 1882 —East Indies Station.

Chapter II 1886—1892

59

Channel Squadron—Cape of Good Hope—Home

Waters — Mediterranean—South Africa.

1892 —1898

Royal Yachts Victoria and Albert and Osborne—

Home Waters and Denmark.

1899 —1900

Pacific Station.

Chapter III 1901 —1902

100

Australian Station — Australia—New Zealand — Fiji.

1903 — 1904

Private Secretary to Admiral Sir Harry Rawson,

Governor of New South Wales.

1904 —1908

Private Secretary to Lord Northcote, Governor-

General of the Commonwealth of Australia.

Chapter IV 1909 —1914.

181

H.M.S. Vernon, Portsmouth, and Secretary to ViceAdmiral Sir John Jellicoe in command of Atlantic Fleet —1911, and of Second Battle Squadron, 1912 — At Admiralty, 1913-1914, on Defensive Arming of Merchant Ships—Food Carriers.

CONTENTS

Chapter V 1914—1918

209

The Great War—Grand Fleet and Admiralty, Secretary to Admiral Sir John Jellicoe, Com-mander-in-chief, and First Sea Lord.

Chapter VI 1919—1920

249

Lord Jellicoe's Naval Mission to India and the Dominions — India, Australia, New Zealand, Pacific Islands, Ex-German Possessions, Honolulu, Canada — United States of America, Cuba, Trinidad.

16

LIST OF PLATES

H.M.S. Tourmaline at Sydney, New South Wales, 1881 Frontispiece

His Majesty the King when a Midshipman on board H.M.S. BacchantT,'"* P “ S ‘ 1880

Gun Room Officers, H.M.S. Tourmaline, 1881 • ...

25

Processions at Hong-Kong in honour of Their Royal Highnesses Prince Albert Victor and Prince George of Wales. December, 1881 , 32

32

Troops of His Highness Seyid Bargash Bin Said, Sultan of Zanzibar, before Palace, 1884 - 33

33

Bombardment of Alexandria, nth July, 1882 ....

48

Slaves captured by H.M. Schooner Undine, East Coast of Africa, 1883 .

49

Government House, Calcutta

56

A Last Salute

57

Vice-Admiral Sir William N. W. Hewett, V.C., K.C.8., K.C.S.I. .

64

Lunch at Springbok Shoot, Bissetts Farm, near Kimberley, April, 1890

65

Programme of “ Helping Hands "

Admiral of the Fleet, The Honourable Sir Henry Keppel, G.C.B.

80

81

Royal Yacht Osborne, with His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales living on board 88

88

Peru Railway across Andes, Lima to Oroya, Quebrada de Cacray, 11,000 teet 89

89

Esquimalt, Vancouver Island .......

96

Spring salmon killed between 4 and 10 a.m. off entrance to Campbell River, Vancouver Island, July, 1900 . . . . g7

97

H.M.S. Warspite, Flagship, leaving Esquimalt, Vancouver Island, 1899

113

Sir Henry Parkes, five times Premier of New South Wales

n 3

The Earl of Hopetoun, First Governor-General of the Commonwealth of Australia ....

120

Vice-Admiral Sir Lewis Beaumont, K.C.M.G., Commander-in-Chief Australia, 1901-1903 '

121

The Opening of the First Commonwealth Parliament of Melbourne 9th May, 1901, by His Royal Highness the Duke of Cornwall and York 138

128

B

18

LIST OF PLATES

Facing page

Vice-Admiral Sir Harry Lawson (Admiral 1903), Governor of New South Wales 1903-1908 139

At the Vice-Regal Summer Residence, Hill View, Moss Vale, New South Wales, 1903. ........ 144

Freak pearl, the "Southern Cross” valued at £lO,OOO, exhibited at the British Empire Exhibition, London, 1934 .... 145

Lord Northcote, G.C.M.G., G.C.1.E., C.8., Governor-General of Australia, 1904-1908 ........ 153

Melbourne, 14th November, 1904. Presentation of King’s Colours . 153

(a) Magnetic or Meridian Ant Hill from East Side . . .160

(b) Magnetic or Meridian Ant Hill from the North end. . . 161

White Ant Hill, 15 feet high, near Pine Creek, Northern Territory 176

Tour in Northern Territory . . . . . . . .177

The Governor-General’s Staff, 1908 ...... 180

Visit to Australia of United States of America Squadron of 16 Battleships 181

Combined Home, Atlantic, and Mediterranean Fleets arriving at Pontevedra Bay ......... 193

On board H.I.M. the Emperor of Germany’s Yacht Meteor . . 193

Admiral Sir John Jellicoe, Commander-in-Chief of the Grand Fleet, 1914-1916, on the Quarter Deck of H.M.S. Iron Duke . . 308

Commander-in-Chief coming up the Fore-bridge of Iron Duke at Sea, 1914 ........... 309

Division of the Grand Fleet in the North Sea 316

His Majesty the King with Commander-in-Chief, officers and Ship’s Company on board H.M.S. Iron Duke ..... 317

Morning Prayers on board H.M.S. Iron Duke at Scapa . . 334

On the Place de la Concorde, Paris, after Allied Conference at Quai d'Orsay, and May, 1917 ....... 335

Breaking the Monotony, 1918 . . . . . . . 34° The Naval Mission to India and the Dominions on board H.M.S. New Zealand, 1919-1930 ........ 341

The Naval Mission to India and the Dominions on board H.M.S. New Zealand, 1919-1920 ........ 241

Vice-Regal Lodge, Simla ........ 356

Tulagi, Solomon Islands. War Canoe presented to Lord Jellicoe by the Natives .......... 357

Guard of Honour of Native Constabulary, Tulagi, Solomon Islands, 1919 373

Papuan Belles, Port Moresby, New Guinea 373

*9

WARNING

If this Ixiok is returned torn, cut, soiled, written in, or injured by rain (a few drops can ruin a valuable book), you will be required to pay full cost of replacing same.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN .CROSS j ;

CHAPTER I

1880—1885

Detached Squadron and East Indies Station

IN July, 1880, came a notification from the Admiralty with the pleasant news of my having successfully passed the competitive examination for an Assistant Clerkship in the Royal Navy, held by the Civil Service Commissioners in June, at Cannon Row, Westminster — where the New Scotland Yard now stands. Half a century has passed, but the sonorous chimes and striking of “Big Ben" still recall that examination chamber, with the warnings each quarter of an hour of the limit of time left to complete the work. The usual medical examination had taken place previously at the old offices of the Medical Director-General of the Navy in Spring Gardens —long ago demolished.

I had received my nomination the year before, through the late Colonel Arthur Tremayne, of Carclew, Cornwall, a survivor of the Charge of the Light Brigade at Balaclava —who was in the 13th Light Dragoons, and afterwards commanded that regiment. One of my earliest recollections is the awe felt as a boy at meeting one who had come through such an

27

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

ordeal only a little over twenty years before. He long suffered from the effects of a shell wound received in the Charge. My father took me to see him at Car clew — only a few miles from Penryn, my birthplace.

Colonel Tremayne was the beau-ideal of a fine soldier. He lived into the present century, passing away, full of years and honour, in 1905 at the age of seventy-eight. I have always felt proud that he was responsible for my entrance into the Royal Navy.

My first appointment was to H.M.S. Duncan, the Flagship of Vice-Admiral Sir Reginald Macdonald, K.C.5.1., Commander-in-Chief at the Nore, known in the Service as “Rim” Macdonald. My father took me to Sheer ness to report myself on board. We lunched in the Ward-room, and I remember that the officers seemed to me very old. I could not quite understand a remark by my neighbour at lunch that I was like a young bear with all my troubles in front of me; for everything then was couleur-de-rose.

The Duncan bore a large number of officers and men on her books who lived in the Royal Naval Barracks in the dockyard, and there I spent my first night in Her Majesty's service. Three other youths, like myself, had just joined. After a day to “sling our hammocks”, we were taken in hand and taught something of our work.

The Chaplain, the late Revd. C. J. Corfe—afterwards the first Bishop of Corea —was an outstanding personality, beloved by officers and men wherever he went. He always kept in touch with his Naval friends and, after he returned from Corea and during his last illness, he was constantly visited by them.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

28

In September, I was appointed to H. M.S. Tourmaline —a composite corvette just re-commis-sioned for service in the Detached Squadron. As the ship was not ready to leave England with the Squadron, we went direct to Madeira. The Inconstant, Flagship of Rear-Admiral the Earl of Clanwilliam, C.8., Bacchante, Carysfort, and Cleopatra arrived at Funchal from Vigo a day after us. In the Bacchante were the two Royal Midshipmen—Prince Edward 1 and Prince George of Wales.'

After a few days lying off Funchal, the Squadron proceeded to St. Vincent, Cape Verde Islands, under sail or steam and sail, according to weather conditions —the screws being hoisted when under sail. It was imperative to conserve coal, and we were a week making the passage. As a rule sails were furled and we entered harbour under steam.

From St. Vincent, the next port of call was Monte Video, the Tourmaline being taken in tow by the Bacchante en route. We arrived at Monte Video after thirty-three days at sea and while there lay three miles from the town. Communication with ships’ boats was at times difficult, but H.M. ships Forward and Elk, gun-boats on the Station, were detailed to enable officers and men to attend entertainments in honour of the visit of the Squadron.

Owing to bad weather and adverse winds, our passage to the Falkland Islands took fifteen days instead of about a week. In our track to the south we made an acute-angled triangle, and for one day were

1 The Late Duke of Clarence.

2 His Majesty the King.

32

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

actually sailing away from our destination. As we entered Port Stanley, small penguins and divers on each side dipping in and out of the water and keeping up with the ship, caused much diversion. The harbour of Port Stanley is completely land-locked, the small town on the side of a hill, and the country round barren and treeless. 1 The day after our arrival, H.M.S. Swallow joined us from Monte Video, bringing a belated telegram from the Admiralty to the Rear-Admiral. A gun was fired, the Blue Peter was hoisted at once by the Flagship and the signal made “Prepare for sea, the Squadron will proceed to the Cape with all despatch.” No one knew why, and there was much disappointment at this alteration in our programme, for it meant our missing the Straits of Magellan and the Pacific Station.

We left that afternoon for South Africa.

The Bishop of the Falkland Islands —the Rt. Revd. W. H. Stirling—sailed alongside the Tourmaline in a small yacht in which he had recently made the passage from Monte Video. He called to see a cousin, George Stirling Hockin, one of our midshipmen. We had been struck by the seamanlike way the yacht had been brought alongside and were not surprised to hear of his prowess as a yachtsman—he visited his large and scattered diocese, which included Patagonia, in this small craft with few hands, keeping as much as possible close to the coast of South America, and thus avoiding adverse winds and currents and the bad weather

1 The place was later to become of historic interest in the Great War since it was here that Admiral Sturdee was coaling his Squadron when the signal station reported the approach of Admiral von Spee and his Squadron, the subsequent action resulting in the almost total annihilation of the German ships.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

30

prevailing for many months of the year. In later years I met him in London ; he lived to be ninety.

A somewhat monotonous passage of three weeks now lay before us, with much fog. On clear days there was rifle and pistol practice at targets towed astern and from one of the lower booms, and preparations for landing-parties were made daily.

On the fifteenth day at sea we passed Gough Island to the south of Tristan da Cunha, then an uninhabited rock, about three thousand feet high. Coal was always an anxiety; to save expenditure we were taken in tow by the Inconstant as we neared South Africa.

Here we heard of the rising of the Boers. As the troops at Cape Town had been sent to the East, the Home authorities had decided to bring the Squadron to the Cape, on account of the critical condition of affairs in South Africa. The troopship Tamar was at Simon’s Bay, after having taken troops to Natal.

We could have landed a Naval Brigade of about 800 strong with field guns, without crippling the Squadron very materially; but it was not to be, and we lay in Simon’s Bay for over six weeks doing nothing.

Little information came from the Transvaal except of reverses. On the evening of February 27th, 1881, the news of the disasters at Laing's Nek and Majuba Hill, was received with dismay, reporting the deaths of General Colley, and later of Lieutenant Trower, R.N., the Gunnery-Lieutenant of the Boadicea, the Cape Flagship, in the Naval Brigade. On the morning of that day, the Rear-Admiral had informed us that the Detached Squadron might probably go to China.

On March 14, we heard of the assassination of the

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

31

Emperor Alexander II of Russia. A day or two later a Russian corvette, the Vestnik, arrived. On the day of the funeral she fired thirty-one minute guns and the ships of the Squadron followed with twenty-one guns each. The Vestnik had masts and yards ; the yards were topped on end during the day, giving the ship a most forlorn appearance.

On March 26, we heard that peace with the Boers had been signed and that we were soon to proceed to Singapore.

A transport, the France, had arrived with the 7th Hussars on board, reinforcements for the Transvaal, and on the 29th General Roberts landed at Cape Town from the mail steamer, to take command in the Transvaal —we heard that on being told peace had been signed while he was en route, he broke his sword; he returned to England by the next homeward steamer. All kinds of rumours were afoot as to our destination; finally came a signal from the Flagship, on April 6, that the Squadron would leave for Melbourne. This news was received with pleasure. We sailed on April 9, with the prospect of Australia, nearly 6,000 miles across the Southern Hemisphere, along the “Roaring Forties”.

There was a six weeks’ passage, the greater part under sail, with frequent westerly gales and much rolling. On April 30, we passed ten miles south of St. Paul’s Rocks, at night, so saw nothing; and a week later, we had the experience of a full westerly gale. The following seas were magnificent, the ships in the trough looking like cockleshells—once we saw the inside of the Carysfort’s funnel as she rolled

it- • *V*. ./•- W'- D. Downey His Majesty the King when a Midshipman on board H.M.S. haaUnt', ,880 *4

Gun Room Officers, H.M.S. Tourmaline , 1881

R. Blomficld H. Worthington C. A. Christian F. Harrison-Smith H. W. Helby W. H. Ryder J. H. Robertson W. L. Grant G. A. Ballard G. S. Hockin C. H. Morgan H. H. Share

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

34

towards us. We held on to anything near and watched the waves following and overtaking the ship, each billow a huge dark-green mountain coming on as if to engulf us. This was immensely impressive, especially in moonlight—to describe the sight adequately is beyond the power of words. We were under doublereefed sails and after a day were battened down with all hatchway covers on, and head-sails set to keep the ship from broaching-to.

The ships of the Squadron were scattered but they generally sighted each other in the mornings, until May 13, when the Bacchante was missed. The Admiral ordered the ships to spread out; and though the gale showed signs of moderating, we were shipping seas continually. Water had got below and our hammocks were wet, cooking was difficult, and it was bitterly cold. Our sea-chests were almost afloat at times, and all was very exciting. We had round iron shot heated in the stokehole and triced up between decks to dry things. When the four ships closed next morning there was still no news of the Bacchante, and this went on for a week. At night we all fired rockets — with reduced sail —in case she was astern. We eventually went on and sighted Australia on May 20, about ten miles from Cape Otway, in Victoria. On the next day a signal from the lighthouse told us that the Bacchante had put in at Albany —King George's Sound, in the south of Western Australia. The Cleopatra was detached to join her. The Bacchante had sustained severe damage to her rudder —a broken rudder-head—-on the night of the 12th, and with an extemporized rudder was able to lie to and eventually to reach Albany

35

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

under steam. Other items of news —the first from the outside world for six weeks—received by signal were that Lord Beaconsfield had died, 1 that Oxford had won the boat-race, and that Bradlaugh was not allowed a seat in the House of Commons.

The following coincidence is worthy of note : In May, 1881, the Bacchante with Prince George of Wales, now His Majesty the King, a Midshipman on board, put in at Albany on account of a damaged rudder, sustained in a heavy gale south of Cape Leewin while on passage from South Africa to Australia in the Detached Squadron, as already recounted. And in 1901, twenty years after, the Ophir, with the Duke of Cornwall and York and the Duchess on board, took refuge at the same place owing to bad weather. Both visits to this distant port of the Empire were quite unexpected.

The Squadron remained in Australia for three months and after Melbourne, Sydney and Moreton Bay, Queensland were visited. Australia has always bestowed warm-hearted hospitality. The reception given to the two Princes was of this kindly character everywhere. The officers and men of the Squadron had never before experienced its like. There was a constant succession of public and private entertainments, race-meetings, balls and dances, and a welcome for us all. Among the many who entertained

L An early recollection of a visit to London when a boy is recalled. Walking in the Mall near Marlborough House a brougham from St. James’s Street passed me. In it was a figure huddled up in a corner, but I saw a face familiar from pictures with a curly lock of hair showing on the forehead.

Asking a policeman whether it was not Mr. Disraeli he replied : "That is the ‘Hearl’ of Beaconsfield”. I had heard so much of him in earlier days from my father —an old-fashioned Tory—and in spite of the rebuff was glad that I should have seen the great Prime Minister of whose death we now heard.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

36

the Squadron at Melbourne were the families of Blackwood Clarke, Miller of Findon, Charles Davis of Mount Macedon, Francis of Airlie House, Wilkie, Malleson, Lloyd Jones, Ryan, Andrew Murray, Armytage of Como, Chirnside, Currie, and Moore of Charnwood. On the night before leaving, the Governor of Victoria and the Marchioness of Normandy gave a farewell ball at Government House.

From Sydney a memorable kangaroo drive was organized by three generous squatters anxious to give the visitors new experience and to show what the Australian bush was really like. Close on a hundred officers from the Squadron and ships on the Australian Station accepted the invitation and left Sydney one evening by special train with sleeping cars for Wellington, about 250 miles off —then the terminus of what is now the line to Bourke.

We arrived at Wellington the next morning and were billeted off to various hotels and given breakfast before starting on the great event of the day. As there were not enough horses to go round, some of us walked out to the meet in the bush. In the party were George Hillyard, 1 Hardinge, Gust and Morgan, Midshipmen, the first two from the Bacchante, Cust the Carysfort, and Morgan, Tourmaline. We had heard tales of buck-jumping with a certain amount of innate anxiety and this was not lessened when one of the steeds just mounted, though quite docile at first, suddenly started a series of bucks in the street. The horse formed a curve in the air with its head well down between its fore-legs and the hind quarters tucked in similarly.

1 Afterwards of All England Lawn Tennis Association

37

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

The rider held on for a time, but lost control in a terrific buck and was shot a huddled mass straight into the air, falling on his hands and knees in the street before a crowd of onlookers. However, he remounted and rode off at a hand gallop.

The bush seemed alive with kangaroos and wallabies when we arrived, and a man offered me a horse which I mounted, inquiring somewhat nervously whether he was a buck-jumper. The owner assured me with a noncommittal smile that he was “all right”. I was scarcely on his back when a kangaroo appeared. My steed dashed off and took me through a maze of closely-grown gum trees and over fallen logs. We had been warned not to attempt to guide our horses and I was quite glad to give him his head, but to this day cannot imagine how I stuck on, for branches of trees flew past one, and it was only by ducking that one escaped being brushed off. I recollect holding hard to the front of the saddle with my right hand at times, appreciating the large knee-pads on each side and occasionally finding myself embracing the horse’s neck.

Then was noticed far away on each side through the dense bush two long walls of calico kept up by posts, for no obvious purpose. During the gallop they seemed to be closing in and then I saw them converge towards a high brake of branches over which the hunted animals leapt and disappeared. The kangaroos did not attempt to jump the calico. The hunt was in this huge wedge-shaped enclosure, the ends of which were a quarter of a mile apart and the kangaroos had been rounded up in the early morning and driven towards the opening of this wedge.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

38

Behind the brake was a pit and the poor things were knocked on the head as they leapt over, often showing fight before they were clubbed. It seemed horribly cruel and unsportsmanlike, but we were told that they were in such large numbers, and did such immense damage to crops and settlements that it was imperative to thin them out periodically. We all assembled afterwards at a sort of camp and I handed my mount over to the owner who seemed surprised at my announcing that I had not fallen off.

There were only two casualties —a damaged shoulder and a broken finger which, considering all things, was not a bad record. In the evening we had a dinner at Wellington followed by a dance, all in our riding kit. Some of us were glad to escape to our berths in the train —stiff but satisfied.

On our return next day, the train stopped at Bathurst where we found lunch spread out on tables on the station platform—a much appreciated break in the journey. We heard afterwards that the cost of the outing was £1,500 —and that fifty kangaroos had been killed. One of my messmates brought a young one back —it had been thrown out of the pouch by the mother when hard pressed, and was a fascinating little thing and a great pet on board, but it never took to ship’s life and though it fed well from a baby's bottle, died after a few weeks.

Over twenty years after I was with Sir Harry Rawson on a visit to Wellington, and found that the drive was well remembered by some —though only one of the hosts was still alive, and he had moved elsewhere. The country had completely changed,

39

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

most of the bush through which we had ridden was cleared land dotted with farms, the district thriving and prosperous, the town trebled in size.

In later years I had one or two kangaroo hunts in other parts of New South Wales —though none on such an elaborate scale as the first. Now kangaroo hounds are used —a sort of large Alsatian. The hunted animals go at such a terrific pace that few horses can keep up with them. When a hound catches one there is often a fight, particularly with an "old man kangaroo” at bay, and the dog often gets killed ; the kangaroo seizes him with his short fore-paws, rears on its tail and rips him through with the terrifically powerful hind legs.

With the advance of civilization in later years the kangaroo has, in some parts, almost disappeared, though on the larger stations they are still a pest. I have heard of one district where motor-cars are used ; with inclined planes over the wire fences the animals are chased from paddock to paddock and when abreast are finished with a gun. Their tails make excellent soup.

While at Sydney there was a day’s expedition by rail over the Zig-Zag Railway to the Blue Mountains, arranged by the eminent Prime Minister of New South Wales, Sir Henry Parkes, who brought about Australian Federation. We had breakfast with Lady Parkes at Faulconbridge, his house in the mountains. Sir Henry died in 1896 only five years before the inauguration of the Commonwealth.

Commodore John C. Wilson was in command of the Australian Station. He was afterwards godfather

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

40

to my wife. My wife's father had been Commander of the Wolverene —the Commodore’s ship —after being First Lieutenant of the Blanche, employed in the Pacific Islands.

We found a jealousy of old standing existing between Victoria and New South Wales. Victoria had long before broken adrift from the Mother State, of which it had originally formed part, and had become Protectionist, while until after Federation in 1901, New South Wales had always held to Free Trade principles. However, nothing affected the kindness and lavish hospitality shown to us everywhere.

In the Royal Navy, Australian hospitality has always been a great tradition, particularly at Sydney — the Naval Headquarters from earliest days. The mention of names such as Lamb, Mort, Mann, Knox, Dangar, Laidlay, Manning and Stephen, all of old families, and mostly descended from Imperial officers who had held appointments in the new Colony, recalls pleasant memories to older Naval officers. The first Governor, Philip, and three who came later —Hunter, King and Bligh (the latter Captain of the Bounty) — were all post-Captains of the Royal Navy.

While at Melbourne, the Tourmaline lay off Sandridge, now Port Melbourne, and alongside the pier were two of the magnificent old sailing clippers waiting to take wool to England. In one of these was an apprentice who had failed to pass into the Royal Navy from the Britannia. He often came on board to see some of his old-time mates in the Training Ship.

Before leaving Melbourne, the two Princes, who had come overland from Albany through South

41

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

Australia, were transferred to the Flagship—the Inconstant —as the repairs to the Bacchante's rudder had not been completed. She had, however, arrived from Albany and was in dock at Williamstown.

On July n, between Melbourne and Sydney, very early one morning, a strange ship, well lit up, suddenly appeared close ahead of the Flagship. She was sighted by two other ships of the Squadron, but disappeared quickly. The officer of the morning watch in the Inconstant —now Captain James A. Caulfeild, a thorough seaman —with whom I was afterwards shipmates, when he taught me how to sail a boat, told me that on this incident being referred to in the gunroom after, one of the midshipmen remarked that “a man would die to-day”—a prophecy sadly fulfilled a few hours after, for the man who had sighted and reported what had been termed at once the "Flying Dutchman” fell from aloft and was killed instantly.

Our stay at Sydney was prolonged by the sudden illness of the Admiral —Lord Clanwilliam —and our arrival in Queensland was much later than intended. Moreton Bay, the anchorage for Brisbane, is about fifteen miles from the town. We only remained there a few days before going on to Fiji—nearly 2,000 miles off, in the tropics, and most of the passage was made under sail. At leaving Australia after such a wonderful time we were all somewhat sad for most of us had left behind friends at one place or the other that would never be forgotten. I little thought that it would be my good fortune to see a great deal of the country in the future.

Fiji was a change to us and, from the time we

Processions at Hong Kong in honour of Their Royal Highnesses Prince Albert Victor and Prince George of Wales. December, 188 l

Troops of His Highness Seyid Bargash Bin Said, Sultan of Zanzibar, before Palace, 18S4

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

44

entered Levuka Harbour in the Island of Ovalau, full of the most interesting experiences. It was for many of us the first visit to any Pacific Island. As we entered the reef-enclosed harbour, many sailing canoes paraded past us, headed by one larger than the rest with a chief, or one of the king’s sons on board, crowded with magnificent-looking natives with huge masses of red hair —some singing as they passed. The canoes had huge sails of matting with gaudy streamers of coloured grasses and tappa —the native cloth, most decorative and gay. We saw some wonderful dances—Mekes — on shore by the natives in honour of the visit of the grandsons of the Great Queen, to whom King Thakumbau —written Cakobau in native dialect —had ceded the Fiji Islands in 1874, and the residents gave a ball on the night before our departure for Japan.

Most of us enjoyed the delightful bathing at Whitobe—a series of waterfalls with deep pools, and between them one slid down on smooth rocks from an upper to a lower pool. We had constant visits from the Chiefs —sons and grandsons of the king—and one, Ratu Beni, lunched in the gun-room; he was an enormous man of over six feet in height, magnificently made, and still in his 'teens —a delightful fellow. The day after, with one of the midshipmen, “Peter” Grant —the late Admiral Sir Lowther Grant —he took me to the village which had been made as a temporary residence for the king, who had moved from Mbau — his island, to be at Levuka for the visit of the Squadron. On the way back we met a small procession headed by King Thakumbau and his retainers who had been to Nasova—the Governor's Residence—and were pre-

45

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

sented by Ratu Beni. He was of great age, leaning heavily on a big stick, and nearly blind, but most dignified and courteous.

At the king's hut we had cocoanuts full of delicious milk handed to us and before leaving were given some old Fijian clubs and baskets, and returned laden to the ship and delighted with our afternoon. Small canoes were constantly pulling round the ships and often the gun-room ports would be darkened by a fuzzy head and a request for “biskeet”, the good old service “hard tack" being much sought after. The natives were most attractive, so simple and pleasant, and in the small villages we were always welcomed with cocoanut milk, and the mothers seemed delighted to show off their children. Alcohol is strictly forbidden, and the race remains quite unspoilt by contact with the whites — which one regrets is not always the case, and the state of Fiji is an everlasting tribute to the Wesleyan missionaries who were practically the first pioneers. One heard stories of the cannibal horrors of early days, the King had been a leader in the many orgies—until he became a Christian and with the whole of his family was baptized in the late 'fifties.

We left Levuka on September to with the prospect of six weeks at sea, a long passage with little to break the monotony —sailing when there was any wind, and steaming as little as possible to save coal, and all felt the heat of the Pacific tropics. Ten days after leaving, we sighted Pleasant Island, almost on the Equator, and passed near enough to see huts. The Inconstant stood in closer than the rest of the Squadron, and from a canoe that came out heard that there was a sort of

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

46

civil war going on, that the Island was ruled by an escaped convict and that everyone was constantly drunk. There were no vegetables or fruit, but plenty of pigs and cocoanuts. The place belied its name.

In this part of the Pacific Ocean we were well out of the ordinary track of ships and as it had never been thoroughly surveyed constant look-out was necessary for shoals. We hove to on one occasion and communicated with the Flagship to send quarterly returns from each ship and learnt then that the Admiral had been on the sick list since leaving Fiji. After a tedious time with little wind we commenced steaming, and before reaching Japan met a full gale. Our coal was running short, and we were using it up fast, so we were ordered to put into Shimoda, a small port seventy miles from Tokio Bay, and the rest of the Squadron went on in the full teeth of the gale. Here we waited a day, when the weather moderated and we rejoined the Squadron off Yokohama.

It was a relief to land again after six weeks on board, and we were objects of great curiosity on shore, for Shimoda did not often have alien visitors. At Yokohama, mails were waiting for us, a great delight, for we had had our last in Australia, and for myself there was a box from home with a new suit of plain clothes, much wanted as one had grown out of what one had. Gun-room officers were getting short of most things, and a bowler hat did duty on different heads for shore visits when the owner was not landing. A riding party to the great bronze Buddha Daibutzu at Kamakura, and a visit to Tokio with C. H. Morgan, Midshipman, were outstanding events. We

47

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

were shown round Tokio by a cousin of Morgan, the late Professor Basil Hall, Chamberlain of the Naval College, whose knowledge of the Japanese language was unique.

While at Yokohama, the Mikado, the Emperor Mutsu Hito, paid a visit to the Bacchante, and on going afloat and returning to the shore was saluted by British, American, Russian and Japanese men-of-war. His Majesty, who was in military uniform, went off in the Bacchante’s galley, and the officers of each ship paraded in full dress, and had a good view as the boat passed. We left on November i for Kobe, with a gorgeous view of the sacred mountain Fujiyama on the way, and after a short stay, during which some of us were tattooed, went on through the Inland Sea, anchoring each night, to Simonoseki at the eastern entrance. Simonoseki was not a treaty port, and staring crowds collected in the towns and villages on the way. The Squadron lay in the roads a considerable distance from where we landed.

While there, Hockin, one of the Midshipmen, and I, had an exciting experience. We landed for an afternoon's walk on the open beach and after climbing a hill by a narrow path came to a main road leading through villages to the town, where we were overtaken by a procession of rickshaws with several Japanese gentlemen in European costume. One stopped and inquired in English where we were going—offering to take us on, as there was room in his rickshaw for three. We accepted the lift with alacrity.

It transpired that he was interpreter to the Governor of the District who, with his suite had been to pay

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

48

respects to the Admiral and Princes afloat. He was most kind, took us through the town, and to a theatre where we saw an amusingly curious play going on. After that he invited us to go with him to the Governor’s private residence —we took off our boots in accordance with custom, before walking on the matted floors and had something to drink —saki, I think. Soon after, two of the Captains, Lord Charles Scott and H. F. Stephenson, from the Squadron, called, and were somewhat surprised to see us installed there.

Then we were taken to the Governor's official house. The Captains soon withdrew, and we followed a little while after as we did not like to leave with them.

Conversation was carried on through our friend the interpreter, who explained to the Governor how he had picked us up. On our leaving, after thanking the Governor for his hospitality, the interpreter pointed out the road to take and we started on our return to the beach for the Officers’ boat, but after going some way we lost ourselves, and thought we should never find the right road. The only Japanese word we knew was “Ohio” —the equivalent of “How do you do?” and that was not much help to us.

It was getting dusk and we began to feel uncomfortable as a jeering mob collected round us, and hastening our pace we happily recognized the road by which we had come. The crowd then adopted a threatening attitude and began to look for missiles to throw. We walked out of the village hastily trying to preserve our dignity as much as possible and were not followed, but there was a good deal of talk and

49

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

shouting. We found the path up the hill, through close-grown scrub, and after a time looked back. The mob had not dispersed and there was still much shouting and gesticulating—when a man with a sword suddenly appeared and started to run after us.

Fortunately the path was a winding one and we sprinted up the hill and when out of sight of the village broke off and lay down under thick bushes. We saw the man running past us and were near enough to hear him panting. We lay low for some time. When it was quite dark we found our way to the beach and could see the lights of the Squadron. There was not a boat in sight, so we decided to stay, and sat on the sands under some trees, expecting to pass the night there.

After an hour or so we saw a boat's light every now and then —there was a swell on, and it disappeared occasionally. We shouted at the top of our voices and then noticed the light coming towards us. It was a pulling cutter from the Carysfort sent to search for a shooting-party that had missed the Officers' boat, but eventually returned in another boat sent to a spot further away, and we were very thankful to be taken off.

On board our own ship we found commotion — a search party was being organized, and we had been reported to the Flagship as missing. We were sent for by the Captain, who addressed a few pungent remarks to us, but finished by saying that he was much relieved to see us back.

The last time British ships had been off the place was in 1864 when Simonoseki was bombarded, and probably some recollection of that still remained.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

50

On the way to Wusung, the port of Shanghai, we took refuge during a gale in the lee of the Saddle Islands. We saw a little of Shanghai, but we had much rain and wintry weather so were not sorry to move south —a rough passage to Chusan and Amoy. At Amoy we found that during the gale the hoisting and feathering arrangements of our screw had been badly damaged and it could not be lowered —so the passage was made under sail and we entered HongKong by the western passage. The rest of the Squadron arrived under steam through the eastern entrance. At that time Sir John Pope Hennessy was the Governor of Hong-Kong. There were illuminations and Chinese processions with huge dragons, in honour of the Princes. Our Admiral, Lord Clanwilliam, was invalided and we waited for his successor. Sir Francis Sulivan.

As the Bacchante left the Squadron to proceed to the Mediterranean, and as the Cleopatra accompanied her to Suez, we were reduced to three ships—the Inconstant, Tourmaline, and Carysfort.

We left Hong-Kong for Singapore February u, under the new Admiral, with his Flag flying in the Inconstant, and the Carysfort making up the reduced Squadron. Our bumboats followed us out playing gongs, amidst much firing of crackers and small guns, for luck. We were soon in tropical weather again.

Singapore was sweltering. We had to lie a long way out and did not see much of the shore. After a week's stay we left for Anjer Point, Sunda Straits, Java, and the Cape of Good Hope—which seemed a far cry then. We saw the great volcano Krakatoa which devastated

51

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

the place a year or two after; Anjer Point, where we landed, disappeared in the earthquake.

Life in the gun-room of a man-of-war was somewhat different to that of the present day, though one daily event, “seven bell tea” in the afternoon probably remains the same. Just before half-past three everyone crowded into the mess —the earliest being those going on duty at four o’clock for the first dog watch —four to six. The youngsters or “squalks” clamoured for their tins of jam, cocoa, biscuits, or cake, all to be charged for in the Messman’s dreaded monthly extra bills.

Most gun-rooms had a sort of trap hatch in the bulkhead between the pantry and the gun-room which was only opened at meal times.

A much harassed gun-room steward lost his patience at our knocking and gave vent to his feelings by shouting : “The more you keeps on a-knocking—the more I keeps on shan't a-coming,” and down came the hatch with a bang.

Gun-room servants led an unenviable life in those days—but now the position of all ships' domestics has been much improved, and there is a proper system of entry and training with improved rates of pay.

On our long voyages —and we had three of about six weeks each —from the Cape to Australia, Fiji to Yokohama, and Sunda Straits to the Cape, we had, particularly in the gun-room, to rely mainly on “ship’s grub”, or the daily Service allowance, eked out by tinned foods which the Messman sold as extras, and a certain amount of live-stock —sheep and poultry for the Captain’s, and ward-room and gun-room messes.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

52

Occasionally, when things were getting low, there would be a present of a ham from the Captain, generally kept for Saturday night’s dinner, when there was a sing-song in the gun-room and extra lights.

For the first year of my service there was the rum ration after the eighteenth birthday, but this was stopped by Parliament, through the action of a then most unpopular politician. A small pecuniary addition was made to the Mess Savings, or as an alternative tea or cocoa was issued as a substitute. The Mess wine and extra books were inspected weekly by the Captain, and there was trouble if the limit was overstepped. A youngster’s wine bill was limited to ten shillings a month, increased to fifteen shillings when he was eighteen—and Sub-Lieutenants were allowed £i's worth. Marsala was popular at twopence a glass.

When one of us had reached the allowance before the end of the month, it was possible to use another mess-mate’s wine-bill—if he had not reached his maximum. The steward was instructed to "put it down to Mr. So-and-So”, and a private settlement would be made at the end of the month.

When we left Fiji, the Chiefs presented a number of live turtles, which were kept in the boats hoisted in amidships—but after a few days of turtle soup and turtle steak cooked in every imaginable way, the delicacy soon palled and we were glad to return to tinned corned beef, known as "Fanny Adams” —the name of an unfortunate girl who had disappeared about the time the Admiralty ration of tinned corned beef was instituted. Salt beef and pork had formerly been the only alternatives.

53

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

During a long sea-trip, one of the sheep that had been on board some time became a great pet with the ship’s company and they were allowed to buy it from the mess-man. It was well looked after, and on Sundays was scrubbed, had its horns and hoofs blackleaded. A cap-ribbon decorated its neck, and it stood alongside one of the men while the Captain went his rounds at divisions before Church.

In the Euryalm later we had two extraordinary monkeys which had been presented to the Admiral by King John of Abyssinia, after Sir William Hewett’s mission to that country. The monkeys never became quite tame but were a constant diversion —most of their time was spent aloft and it was a break in routine to hear the Boatswain’s mates pipe “All hands catch monkeys”—before sail drill. This often took time, for they sprang from yards to stays and after a chase, which they thoroughly enjoyed, they would slide down to the deck, and were tied up temporarily. On Sundays, Church appealed to them and they were seen scampering on the awnings and peeping over the edges during hymns. They were eventually landed at Aden, for towards the end of a passage from Zanzibar, when fruit on board was scarce, the Admiral came down to his cabin from deck and found the monkeys, having eaten all they could, throwing the remainder of his oranges and bananas, which were in a flat net tied to the ceiling, out of an open port. This was too much even for Royal Abyssinian monkeys.

Another tragedy must be recalled which affected everyone on board. It concerned a delightful cockatoo — the friend of all —with a large vocabulary, that roamed

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

54

about the ship at will. He was fond of climbing aloft and for some reason when we were coming down the Hooghly in a terrific tideway, in charge of one of the famous pilots, the bird fell overboard from one of the yards and disappeared after a few attempts to fly. We were in a very ticklish place and could not stop or a boat would have been lowered —for with shifting shoals and varying currents navigation there was always a serious matter for a heavy ship. We had all the main deck ports closed and barred in, and no sound heard other than the soundings being called and the Pilot’s voice. Many a ship has capsized on grounding and has been swallowed up in the sands —the “James and Mary Shoal” is named after the loss, with nearly all hands, of a large clipper of that name.

We had a Master-at-Arms —known on the lowerdeck as the “Jaundy”—in the same fashion as the Sergeant-Major of Marines is “Stripes”, the Drummerboy “Sticks”, the Carpenter “Chips”, his mates “Chippies”, and the Boatswain “Pipes”, the AssistantNavigator “Tankie” because one of his duties was to register in the Ship’s log periodically the amount of freshwater remaining in the tanks, the Ship’s Steward’s boy “Dusty”, and the Sailmaker “Sails”. We had one “Sails” who danced the Sailor’s Hornpipe perfectly, and was always in demand at Ship’s concerts. The Mizzen topmen were “Lambies” —why or wherefore I never knew ; one of their duties between decks was to clean the flat where our chests were.

The Master-at-Arms, with the Ship’s Corporals under him, was responsible for the discipline and good order of the lower-deck. Our Jaundy, who

55

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

hailed from the west coast of Ireland, was a weird character, and it was a marvel how he maintained any semblance of authority over the Ship’s company, for he was the laughing-stock of the ship. On one occasion at Yokohama, when a party of men who had been given a night’s special leave, had been inspected by the Officer of the Watch, and were just going over the gangway into the leave boat, he addressed them thus :

“Leave is up at eight o’clock to-morrow morning, and there will be no ship’s boats without you take sampans, and if it is blowing to-morrow morning you will come off to-night.”

One of the officers who was also Irish championed his compatriot, and said that everyone would understand what he meant, which was that if they thought the weather looked threatening they were to use their judgment and come off in shore-boats before their leave expired. We were going to coal ship the next forenoon and lighters were to be alongside early.

One night to the south of Mauritius, on the voyage to the Cape of Good Hope, when we were under plain sail with lower and topmost studding sails, a sudden cyclonic squall took us aback and we had to double reef the topsails in terrific thunder, lightning and rain. This occasion was the first and only time I ever heard the Boatswain’s mate pipe “Hands save ship”. We were gunwale under for a short time even with topsails on the cap. The lower deck ports were open, and only closed in bare time to save the ship. We heard after that the Flagship had lost her studding sails and booms. This was about the only excitement in a monotonous nine weeks.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

56

Before rounding Cape Agulhas we met a stiff gale and arrived at Simon’s Bay with only about twenty tons of coal on board. We found the Boadicea here, and the Commander-in-Chief, Rear-Admiral Sir Nowell Salmon, V.C. Our stay at Simon's Bay was uneventful except for a bad fire on board the Inconstant, so near the after-magazine that the magazine had to be flooded. We were not sorry to get orders to proceed to England, and we left for St. Helena en route on May 16. After our experiences in Australia and the East, lying at Simon’s Bay was not pleasant, for it blew nine days out of ten. A fair trade wind brought us to St. Helena in twelve days, and visits were made at once to Longwood, where Napoleon spent his last years. There was a notice in his bedroom : “lei Napoleon a rendu le dernier soupir," translated by a junior officer as “Here Napoleon took his last supper.’’

We went to the nook under a huge willow tree, where Napoleon used to spend hours —remains of the tree were still there. There was a small garrison in barracks on the hill over the town, and we had a cricket match, which the Squadron lost.

A good trade wind took us to St. Vincent, Cape Verde Islands, in seventeen days—there we received orders by telegram to proceed to Gibraltar and heard rumours of trouble in Egypt. We were towed most of the way by the Inconstant against a head-wind which had doubled the expenditure of coal. On arrival, we found the Reserve Fleet, under RearAdmiral H.R.H. the Duke of Edinburgh with H.R.H. the Duke of Connaught a guest on board the Hercules, Flagship, also our old friend the Wanderer R.Y.S. which

57

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

had been at Fiji and Hong Kong, owned by C. J. Lambert.

The three remaining ships of the Detached Squadron were ordered direct to Malta, after coaling, and still knew nothing definite as to the reason—we had quite thought that we might remain at Gibraltar and return to England with the Bacchante, then in the Eastern Mediterranean. At Malta we found that the Channel Squadron had gone through to Egypt and we had orders to coal and take ammunition and stores for the Mediterranean Fleet. On July n news came of the bombardment of Alexandria by the Mediterranean Fleet under Admiral Sir Beauchamp Seymour, afterwards Lord Alcester, and we were sent direct to Limasol, Cyprus. Lieutenant Caulfield and I dined at the Limasol Club which was used as a Military Mess, and there was quite a large number of officers. My next door neighbour was Major Chard, V.C. of Zulu war and Rorkes Drift fame, and he persuaded me to smoke a bubble bubble pipe, which all Turks use. I have never tried one since.

After filling up with coal and taking on a deck cargo we left for Alexandria, and there found a large British Fleet lying outside. The forts showed many signs of the bombardment and several had flags of truce flying. We heard that Lieutenant Jackson and the Gunner of the Inflexible and Lieutenant Aplin of the Hecla had been killed, the Alexandra was damaged, and the Superb had a shot through her foremast. The Channel Squadron, under Admiral Sir William Dowell, was off Aboukir. The Inconstant, our Flagship, remained at Alexandria. We discharged ammunition and stores

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

58

and were sent round to Port Said, whither the Carysfort had preceded us —the first break up of the Detached Squadron. As we left, Admiral Sulivan signalled : “When shall we three meet again ?"

Port Said was in the hands of troops who had gone over to Arabi Pasha —the leader of the rebellion against the Khedive. We lay a few yards from the town, but no one was allowed to land. Ahead of us was the French Flagship, La Gallissoniere, and abreast of us on the other side of the harbour was the battleship Penelope, flying the flag of Rear-Admiral Sir Anthony H. Hoskins, who was in charge of the port.

From the ship everything appeared quite peaceful, and people patronized the cafes all day long. Armed landing-parties were kept in readiness as there was a possibility of the rebel troops breaking out and looting the town. The Iris, Coquette, and, later, the Monarch, with the Penelope and Tourmaline, made up our Naval force, and crowds gathered in the evening listening to the excellent band of the French Flagship—which always finished its programme with the prayer from Zampa at sunset. We were sent round to Damietta for a short time —as there was an idea that Turkish troops were to be landed there, and we steamed in under the Fort, cleared for action, with our 64pounders loaded and run out —but nothing happened.

While we were at Port Said we had on board for a short time Captain Gill, R.E., and Professor Palmer, both Arabic scholars of renown employed on secret service. They went to Ismailia and we heard nothing more for weeks. They were joined at Suez by Lieutenant Charrington, the Flag-Lieutenant to Rear-Admiral

59

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

Sir William Hewett, V.C., the Commander-in-Chief E. Indies Station, and they were sent into the Sinai Peninsula, taking a large sum of money to win over Bedouin tribes who might give trouble as supporters of the Rebellion. It transpired that they were betrayed, robbed and murdered. Their bones were found after, with those of two loyal guides who perished with them, and all were interred in the crypt of St. Paul’s Cathedral.

On August 20 the expeditionary force under Sir Garnet Wolseley arrived off Port Said, which had been occupied by a force of marines from some of our ships. The barracks were surrounded at night, the troops disarmed, the officer in command made a prisoner and taken on board the Monarch. An immense gathering of transports arrived outside in the early morning and they passed through the Canal to Ismailia during the next three days. We heard that a feint landing had been made at Aboukir, and great secrecy had been kept in regard to the seizing of the Canal. It was expected that the French forces would co-operate with us, but orders from Paris forbade the Admiral to take any part, and the French residents at Port Said assembled abreast of the French Flagship, shook their fists at the ship, and showed their indignation in forcible terms.

Ismailia and the railway junction at Nefische had been occupied by a Naval brigade under Captain R, O. B. Fitzroy of the Orion before the expeditionary force arrived in Lake Timsah. As there were no Midshipmen in the Orion, George Willis I —Captain’s

1 Paymaster Captain George H. A. Willis, C.8., author of "The Navy as I saw It."

Bombardment of Alexandria, nth July, 1882. Lighthouse Battery, Ras cl Tin Fort (The Captain of the Gun responsible for the hole in the Lighthouse was reprimanded)

Slaves captured by H.M. Schooner Undine, East Coast of Africa, 18S3

D

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

62

Clerk —was taken by Captain Fitzroy as A.D.C. temporarily.

The endless procession of transports packed with troops was a wonderful sight, and although some grounded in the Canal they managed to leave the channel clear ; in some cases there was only about a foot to spare for a ship to pass. The Canal pilots refused to take any part, and it was a fine piece of work to get such an immense number of ships safely through to Lake Timsah. The Tourmaline was stationed at Kantara, and for some weeks we had charge of the Gares between there and Port Said. Salahieh, not far off, had a rebel garrison, and steps were taken to prevent the Canal from being blocked.

After the whole of the Expeditionary Force had gone through, we had a monotonous time tied up alongside the bank—our guns were trained across the desert towards Salahieh, embrasures were cut through the canal bank and a 9-pounder gun mounted on shore. Two rebel officers rode in one morning from the garrison and gave themselves up —our only excitement. We swam about in the Canal on most mornings and evenings and made a lawn-tennis court on hard sand, but Lake Menzaleh commenced to fill up and it was soon unplayable.

After the battle of Tel-el-Kebir, on September 13, we were moved to Ismailia and went over the battlefield and Arabia’s lines of defence, one scorching day. There was much evidence of the battle. We could scarcely carry all we picked up in the way of Remington rifles, bayonets and other souvenirs, and were thankful to get a train back to Ismailia, after a picnic meal at

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

63

the railway station, for all were fairly exhausted with the heat and some miles of rough walking. There had been much looting by stray Arabs, and bodies unearthed —some with lately issued boots, only worn for a few days that had escaped the notice of the night prowlers.

Soon after we heard that the Tourmaline was going to the East Indies Station, and we left for Aden shortly after—an unpleasant surprise to be turning away from home after three years' cruising.

A terribly hot week in the Red Sea brought us to Aden. A steamer —the Gulf of Finland —had piled up on the rocks of Jebel Zuker two days before, and a transport was trying to tow her off. Our offered assistance was not required. At Aden our Captain, Robert P. Dennistoun, was relieved by Captain Robert Hornby Boyle.

Early every morning in the Red Sea we saw an enormous comet which seemed to occupy a large part of the sky—most of us slept on deck, and it was an unforgettable sight.

From Aden we went to Bombay for a long refit, as the ship had only been patched up in England before leaving, and we had always been the lame duck of the Detached Squadron as regards steaming. The time passed pleasantly at Bombay and a fortnight at the hill station, Matheran, with plenty of riding daily, was a delight and quite set one up after the weeks in the Suez Canal and Aden. Sir James Fergusson, the Governor, and Miss Alice Fergusson, gave many entertainments at Government House, and there were weekly dances at the Bombay Yacht Club.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

64

When we were efficient again, in May, we cruised for some weeks off Ras Madraka and the Kooria Mooria Islands, close to the coast of Arabia, and boarded hundreds of dhows, but found no slaves.

We had seining parties from the beaches and enormous catches of fish of many kinds. Very wildlooking Bedouins would appear whenever we landed, and some came off. Ship's biscuit was in great demand and on landing it was divided up equally. They were wiry, murderous-looking ruffians, well-armed with rifles and daggers.

For the slave-cruising we had two small ships, the Osprey and Ranger attached, and we all eventually went to Trincomalie, in Ceylon, the Naval Headquarters —with Admiralty House and a Naval yard. The Admiralty owned Sober Island where there was a billiard-room and bungalows for ward-room and gun-room officers. The island was infested with snakes, and one night a Sub-Lieutenant who had his bed under one of the open windows felt a weight on his chest and to his horror in the moonlight saw a large snake sliding over his body ; he was almost paralysed with fear and didn’t move until the snake had landed on the floor and was curled up in a corner. He then roused everybody —and the snake, a boa constrictor, was despatched.

Sir William Hewett often lent us the tennis-courts at Admiralty House and we all enjoyed our stay at Trincomalie.

We were then ordered to Mauritius and while there our Staff-Surgeon, Charles L. Ridout, died from malarial fever after a short illness; a great gloom

65

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

was cast over the ship as he was universally liked and had been with us since commissioning. Here we again met the Flagship, the Euryalus, and made many acquaintances on shore.

We had over a year south. Most of the time was spent at Madagascar, which had been occupied by the French —we visited all the ports round the island, but had a break every six weeks at Port Louis, Mauritius, where we had to go for coal. This was always a delightful change from Madagascar, and during our short visits to Port Louis for coaling, everyone who could went by train to the country to Beau Bassin, Moka, Vacoa, or Curepipe, where most of our friends lived. Among the houses where a warm welcome awaited the Naval officer were those of the De Chazal, Elliot, Gibson, Frazer, and Maclrvine families.

Each year there was a Chasse au Cerf in the forest near Curepipe, and a certain number of guns were invited. It was all well arranged but the hosts’ sporting costumes always took the shine out of ours. On a hotter day than usual in that high part of the island, a young Naval officer fell asleep by a tree where he had been posted, tired of waiting and having seen nothing. He was roused by a rustling in the bush, and jumped up, seizing his rifle. He related his experience to the ship in the evening and said that a frightened head appeared suddenly in the bush, exclaiming :

“Mong Dieu, mong Dieu, arretez le fusil.”

The island then was very prosperous, and covered in parts with sugar plantations—the vanilla bean was also cultivated and one soon knew where the fields were by the deliciously scented air.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

66

The work in the plantations was carried out by labour from India. The natives, being under contract, were sent back after a certain number of years ; they brought their families and had their own little villages and settlements, gave little trouble and were specially in charge of a Protector of Immigrants. During the Race week at Port Louis the Champ de Mars was a brilliant sight, for they flocked there in gaily-coloured costumes and turbans —the women bedecked with silver ornaments which represented their savings.

At Tamatave there was a French Squadron, and as local military operations were still going on we could not land. There had been a good deal of friction between the French Admiral and the former British Senior Naval Officer. Our Captain, who succeeded him, had had a special duty to put matters straight; with the help of a new British Consul, the late John Hicks Graves, all trouble disappeared.

We went to Zanzibar to meet Mr. Graves on arrival from England, with a new Vice-Consul and his wife, Mr. and Mrs. Pickersgill, and took them to Madagascar. There are many Malagasy races, all markedly different. The new Consul had brought a letter from Queen Victoria to the Malagasy Queen, Ranavalona Manjaka, and asked me to accompany him to Antananarivo, the capital, in the centre of the island, but our movements were always so uncertain that leave was not possible.

The Consul, who was living on board, visited many coastal towns not occupied by the French, before going to Antananarivo, the capital, which was some days’ journey off at the centre of the island. I was

67

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

fortunate in being able to accompany him on a visit to the Mananzary River and town —south of Tamatave. We had an exciting experience getting on shore in a large surf boat, the bow and stern of which were decked over and we had to sit on the deck, often hanging on to the low gunwale for dear life as the boat tossed about in the surf like a cockle-shell. The crew of about twenty half-clad Hovas rowed from high thwarts in the well of the boat—they worked like slaves —singing and shouting as we went through the surf, and a heavy confused swell breaking on the river bar which could only be crossed at high tide. Sharks were numerous outside and there were crocodiles inside, so the chance of capsizing was not amusing to contemplate—and it was a relief to find ourselves on an even keel in the placid river, a beautiful spot with fine mango trees on each side and dense vegetation, while inland we had glimpses of English-looking park country —and the town came into view as we entered the river. The district Governor, a quaint figure in a very old mixed Naval uniform, with a staff in varied costumes, and guard and band, received the Consul with “God Save the Queen", and the Malagasy National Anthem. The British residents, mostly traders, and a great crowd of natives in large straw hats and flowing white garments were also assembled.

We were taken to huts furbished up for our accommodation, the walls hung with calico—and then changed into uniform to call on the Governor, who gave a formal welcome on behalf of the Queen of Madagascar, through an Interpreter. She had ordered

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

68

a present of two bullocks to be sent to the ship. This was a general procedure on these visits and one much appreciated —as at Tamatave, our base, always in a state of blockade by the French, no fresh provisions were obtainable. The next day we were taken up the river, shot some duck and two crocodiles, and then embarked in the surf boat for the ship, laden with presents of fruit from the Governor.

Tamatave harbour was full of large ground sharks, which never appeared until the offal from bullocks was thrown overboard, when looking down from the poop these horrible monsters could be seen in the clear water some feet below the surface.

We saw the bombardment of a Hova camp outside Tamatave. The fort was captured without any casualties to either French or natives. As we could not go to the town we often landed at low tide on the reef which made the harbour and speared sea snakes which dashed about between one’s feet. There were numbers of beautifully-coloured fish of all shapes and sea-horses and coral. We were able to get turkeys, geese and fowls for a few pence at places on the coast and quantities of mangoes and custard apples—and in the gun-room we kept chameleons on a small branch over the table—their hunting of flies was a continuous entertainment. We also brought off delightful lemurs as pets.

On one of our visits to Zanzibar, I had a touch of the sun followed by malarial fever which laid me low for some time ; my hair began to come out in consequence, and never grew again.

We saw much of the Universities Mission at

69

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

Mbweni and of Bishop Smythies, and often attended service at the Cathedral which is built on the site of the old slave market. There was a very good choir of black boys, snatched from the slave-dealers, most picturesque with red cassocks, and the combination of black heads and feet with the red of the cassock below and above and the white surplice in the middle was very effective.

At Tamatave we were soon on most cordial terms with the French Admiral and his officers, and there was a constant exchange of courtesies —we visited many places on the coast: one of them Diego Suarez, or British Sound, in the north-east —a huge harbour with many bays and a narrow entrance where the Russian Admiral, Rodjestvensky, took his Squadron on its way to Japan years after. Here some of us on shore for a picnic were startled by bullets whistling over our heads ; it appeared that natives on the hills took us for French, so we laid low in the bush, and went back to the ship later without a repetition of the firing.

We had a short stay at the Comoro Islands ruled by the Sultan of Johanna, whom we did not see, but a formal visit was paid by his General who commanded a force of about 1,000 black soldiers. He was received with the usual ceremonies, and saluted on leaving. In a short time he returned in native dress, having discarded a very showy uniform, and asked for some ship’s serge, and incidentally took our washing back, which was quite well done in twenty-four hours.

We visited Nossi Be, a French colony in the northwest, and most of the Malagasy ports with such

Govf.rnment House, Calcutta

Viscountess Downc Miss R. Thynnc Lady Helen Blackwood Bishop of H.R.H. the H. E. The Earl H.E. the Calcutta Duke of of Dufferin H.R.H. the Countess of Connaught Viceroy Duchess of Dufferin Connaught and Staffs

A Last Salute [Photograph hy Fleet-Paymaster G. If. A. Willis, R. N. H.M.S. Hibernia Receiving Ship at Malta—Saluting Flag of Vice-Admiral Sir Arthur K. Wilson on departure of the Channel Squadron under his command, Bth September, 1902. She was taken from her moorings the next day to be broken up.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

72

pleasant-sounding names as Fenerive, Vatoumandry, Mahanura, but for length the name of a former king which I saw on an old proclamation, Rabodonandrianampoinimerina, is hard to beat. The name of the Prime Minister in our time was only “Rainiliarivony”—comparatively short.

After some months we went back to Zanzibar, where we met the Euryalus, Flagship. In September Sir William Hewett gave me an appointment in his office, and though I had been over four years away from England and the Tourmaline was on the point of returning to pay off, it was much to my advantage to transfer to the Flagship and only meant being away about ten months longer.

My time in the Euryalus proved a great change—all the comforts of a larger ship, with a band, and ice. We visited Aden, Berbera and Zeyla on the Somali coast —recently annexed —Bombay, Ceylon, Calcutta and Madras before leaving for England. Calcutta in February was delightful alongside the Eden Gardens with a pontoon to the ship. The Viceroy, Lord Dufferin, and Lady Dufferin were most hospitable, and we had many dinners, balls and entertainments. During one of the balls I remember the Viceroy coming up to another youngster and myself and giving us the news of the death of General Gordon and the fall of Khartoum at the end of January which had just been received—we had only heard rumours before. On returning to Bombay, Sir William Hewett was offered the post of Second Sea Lord at the Admiralty, but by the time he arrived in England there was a change of Government and he was only there for a day.

73

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

In March, relations between Great Britain and Russia became very strained and orders were received as to following the movements of Russian ships. Just at this time, we had a serious accident to our screw and could not use it, so were towed by the Tiverton, transport, to Suez. In the Red Sea a steamer signalled to us that the Russian question had been referred to arbitration.

The Temeraire took us from Port Said to Malta, where we were hulked in the Hibernia, while the Euryalus was docked and repaired. When ready, we returned to England in her, arriving in Plymouth Sound in thick fog and very cold weather in spite of it being the end of June. At Malta I had passed my examination for Assistant Paymaster and became a commissioned officer. I landed in Plymouth late in pouring rain and saw my mother, who was staying with cousins near Dartmoor, but it was mid-night when I arrived and I had to rouse a sleeping house. One thing struck me as being wonderful, the delightful complexions of the West Country girls, so different to what I had seen in my later travels.

It was with a thrill I landed in England after nearly five years’ absence. After the Euryalus had paid off at Chatham at the end of July, I had three months' delightful leave with my people in Cornwall, and with friends in many parts of the country. I was very thankful to be back again.

74

CHAPTER II

1886— 1900

Channel Squadron—Cape of Good Hope—Royal Yachts — Pacific Station.

AFTER my leave I was at the Royal Naval Barracks L at Sheerness for the winter, and for a few weeks in the Rupert, a coastguard ship, but in April, 1886, Rear-Admiral Sir William Hewett, V.C., hoisted his Flag in the Minotaur and took command of the Channel Squadron, and I was appointed for service in his office.

Captain James Bruce (afterwards Admiral Sir James Bruce) and Fleet-Paymaster Henry C. W. Gibson, who had also served with Sir William in previous commands, came as Flag-Captain and Secretary.

The Squadron was sent for a cruise to the South of Ireland and Milford Haven, and then to Norway, calling at Trondjham, Bergen, Christiansand and Christiania (now Oslo).

At Christiania we had a visit from King Oscar of Sweden and Norway—the tallest man I had ever seen —and we were fallen in in Full Dress to receive His Majesty. He was a descendant of the great Napoleon’s General, Bernadotte, who was given the Scandinavian throne.

Then came Copenhagen, full of interesting sights, and we found the Danes, like the Norwegians, delight-

75

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

ful. Visits were paid to Frederiksborg Palace and Thorwalsden’s museum, and, as at Christiania, there were many entertainments to officers and men. We gave a theatrical performance in the presence of our Minister, Sir Edward Monson 1 and Lady Monson, and many others from the shore.

We started on our winter cruise to Spain and Portugal after a short stay at Portsmouth, and spent Christmas at Lisbon. In the early morning of Christmas Eve, a very heavy freshet came down the Tagus, and the Minotaur was dragged almost on top of the Monarch. A steamer, the Ville de Victoria, crowded with emigrants going to South America, drifted across the Sultan’s ram, and was holed and sank at once, thirty-five people being drowned. The Sultan’s cables parted, and she was only brought up at Belem, While the Minotaur was clearing the Monarch, we heard shrieks and cries, although no one knew what had happened, but boats were sent down the river from all ships, and fortunately were able to rescue a large number of people. This tragedy cast a great gloom over our Christmas.

Early in 1887, we went to Lagos Bay for gun practice and on to Gibraltar where Lord Napier of Magdala was then Governor. We lay alongside the old Mole, and for exercise often climbed up to the Signal Station and back before breakfast. Then there was a cruise to the Balearic Isles, calling at Port Mahon where we picnicked among the ruins of old forts — the remains of the British occupation early in the

1 Afterwards Lord Monson. He was British Minister at Monte Video in 1880 during the visit of the Detached Squadron.

76

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

century. Afterwards the Squadron carried out gunnery and torpedo practices from Arosa and Pontevedra Bays in the north of Spain; and went across to Madeira to Gibraltar again, and back to Portsmouth.

When cruising, the Squadron was often exercised at what was then termed "Steam tactics”, and there was one movement known as the "Gridiron”, in which the ships were disposed first in single line abreast, then one Division steamed well ahead, turned towards the advancing Division, and passed between the advancing ships. There was great glee when a guest of the Vice-Admiral, much impressed with this spectacular sight, referred to it as the “Frying-pan” movement.

In June, 1887, a Naval Review was held by Queen Victoria at Spithead to celebrate Her Majesty’s Jubilee, with a great collection of visiting foreign ships ; after which there were manoeuvres in the Channel—then a cruise round England, Scotland and Ireland, with visits to Liverpool, Belfast, the Clyde, Stornoway, Kirkwall, Invergorden, and Queensferry. Everywhere the Squadron was visited by thousands from the shore. The Forth Bridge was being made and had already taken shape. It was most impressive steaming under the great arched tubes just beginning to show, with a hive of workmen above us.

In November, 1887, we turned over to a new Flagship, the Northumberland —a sister ship to the Minotaur and Agincourt, but with three masts instead of five —and the Squadron went south for its winter cruise. We spent Christmas again at Lisbon and were sent into the Mediterranean, visiting Majorca and Sardinia, and the Fleet was then divided for an Italian

77

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

entente visit, the Vice-Admiral going to Genoa and the Rear-Admiral to Spezia. We had a wonderful reception at Genoa and many diversions, and made great friends with the officers of one of the Bersaglieri regiments. Prince Henry of Prussia came over from San Remo where the Crown Prince and Princess Frederick of Germany and family were staying at the Villa Zirio. He brought a message from the Crown Princess, so on our way to Gibraltar the Admiral took the Squadron close to San Remo and the Crown Prince saw the ships from the verandah of his villa. He was already a stricken man. The Minotaur anchored for an hour, and the Crown Princess and three daughters came on board the Flagship and visited the Temeraire before returning. At Gibraltar we heard of the death of the Emperor William I, and in a few weeks his son, the Emperor Frederick, passed away, having borne his sufferings with the greatest fortitude.

Sir William Hewett's time of command was approaching its end and Rear-Admiral Baird was appointed to relieve him on the return of the Minotaur to England.

I had been appointed to the Cape Flagship and left the Minotaur at Gibraltar, after an affecting farewell. Sir William said : “The best of friends must part.” I think that he knew he had a short time to live and he died a few months after. He gave me a scarf-pin with his initials, W.N . W . H., engraved inside ; it had a pattern of oak leaves similar to that on the scabbard of a Flag-officer’s sword. I was the only officer left on board who had been in the East Indies with him. He had won the V.C. in the

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

78

Crimean War when a Mate, having been recommended, first for gallantry at the Alma and again at Inkerman, before being gazetted. No bar had been provided in those days, and his Cross was therefore inscribed with two dates.

The passage to the Cape was in the Himalaya troopship, taking a new crew first to the Orion at Singapore, as well as one for the Raleigh at the Cape. The ship was crowded and we had some young Gunners going to the East, straight from Woolwich, now mostly lost sight of, but one of them became Lord Lee of Fareham. We had an uneventful journey across the Indian Ocean and were thankful when the Cape was reached.

The new Commander-in-Chief at the Cape, RearAdmiral Richard Wells 1 , had arrived at Simon’s Bay with his Flag-Captain, Wilmot H. Fawkes 1 , and Flag-Lieutenant John S. Luard, who some years after married the Admiral's only daughter, Miss Constance Wells. The Secretary was Fleet-Paymaster Francis E. G. Dent, and my office-mate was Assist.-Paymaster John Cooper. 1

While the Flagship Raleigh was at Simon’s Bay we lived mostly on shore, the Admiral at Admiralty House, and the officers in the Dockyard. Simonstown was a Naval and Military colony, with a good Naval Hospital, and ships from the West Coast came periodically for refitting and leave. There was a good deal always going on, and in spare time plenty of

1 Afterwards Sir Richard Wells, Commander-in-Chief at the Nore. 1 Afterwards Sir Wilmot Fawkes, Commander-in-Chief in Australia and Devonport.

1 Lost in the Monmouth at the Battle of Coronel, 1914.

79

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

cricket, lawn-tennis, riding, and visits to Cape Town and its delightful suburbs. The railway ended some six miles off at Kalk Bay, but was eventually extended to the Naval base. The road along the shores of Simon's Bay from the Naval Station at Simonstown to Kalk Bay is broken by beaches, with large smooth sand-hills, from a distance resembling snowfields. The wife of an officer who came out from England, who was later known as a “Mrs. Malaprop”, exclaimed on seeing the hills for the first time : “How splendid for tombogganing.” “Up the road ” will bring back many pleasant memories to Naval officers who have served on the Station —for the term meant going on leave to Cape Town, or to the places on the way : Wynberg, Newlands, Rondebosch or Claremont, where many hospitable families lived. The names of Vanderbyl, Vintcent, Cloete, Fairbairn, Fairbridge, Rudd, Graham, and Eaton will be familiar to many.

The Admiral visited the West Coast of Africa, Natal, and other South African ports once a year, and the time passed peacefully in those days. For work which necessitated exposure to the tropical sun, every ship on the Cape and West Coast and East Indies Stations was allowed a small complement of coloured men —Kroomen from the Kroo country on the West Coast of Africa, and Seedie boys from Zanzibar and East Africa. They were entered officially and served their time for pension.

From early days on account of the difficulty of getting their native names correct, each was given an alias. In the Raleigh we had a Jack Ropeyarn, Tom Bottle of Beer, a Prince of Wales and Pontius

Vice-Admiral Sir William N. W. Hewctt, V.C., K.C.8., K.C.S.I. 64

Lunch at Springbok Shoot, Bissetts Farm, near Kimberley, April, 189 c

D. Loch H. H. Share Sir T. Upington, 11. E. Sir H. Loch, S. Fort Attorney General Governor R.-Admiral R. Wells Mr. Cecil Rhodes, Premier

82

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

Pilate. Their soubriquets, which were much prized, appeared in the Ships’ Ledgers, on parchment certificates, and on official documents. Much of the manual labour in the Simon's Bay dockyard was carried out by Kroomen, who had special quarters provided on shore.

While living at Simon's Bay for a time, I had a Kroo-boy servant —one Tom Peter—an excellent fellow. He once borrowed a small sum for medicine for a sick baby named “Caroline-sah after my friend” he informed me. Questioned as to whether the child was baptized, the reply was : “Yes—sah—christened the day I was married.”

The wife of an officer in the Guard Ship took a great interest in the Kroomen and taught them to read and write, and I found that she had been responsible for the wedding. Tom Peter said she was a good Christian woman, and that all Kroomen liked her. She kept in touch with them after leaving the Cape and was instrumental in getting one ordained in the Church of England—he afterwards worked as a missionary in his country on the West Coast. Years after, when on board the Victoria and Albert in Portsmouth Harbour, I was surprised one day to see from my cabin port a shore boat approaching, its occupants being a lady, and two men of colour. It was an unexpected visit from her with two protegees who were anxious to see me.

In Admiral Wells’s time we had trouble with the Portuguese at Massi Kesse over the British South Africa Company’s boundary in the east, and there were some casualties, but instead of seizing Delagoa

E

83

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

Bay, as contemplated, three ships were sent to reinforce the East Indies Squadron, and a demonstration was made off Mozambique, resulting in a settlement of the negotiations.

There was a very interesting trip to Kimberley in 1890, with the Admiral, who was with the Governor, Sir Henry Loch and party, on his first visit to the goldfields. Luard, the Flag-Lieutenant, was laid up with a fractured arm from a bad football accident, and I was taken in his place.

On the way a dense crowd of locusts delayed the train for some time —an extraordinary experience—and we were fascinated with delightful little Meer cats that ran alongside the train on the Karoo plains—sitting up, looking round, and then trotting on again.

We went over the De Beers mines and saw many diamonds. Messrs. Cecil Rhodes, Alfred Beit, and Gardner Williams, took charge of the party and each lady was given a diamond. From Kimberley we had a springbok shoot near a farm owned by a farmer named Bissett. A place well-known afterwards in the Boer War.

One afternoon Mr. Rhodes asked me to go with him to the outskirts of Kimberley, to see the first Pioneer party of the British South Africa Company start off for Mafeking. An old shipmate of mine, Lieutenant E. Tyndale Biscoe, who had been invalided from the Service, went in charge of machine-guns, and with the party were two white bulls, sent as a present to King Lobengula from Queen Victoria. The time of departure was not generally known and there were very few to see them trek off to the north.

84

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

We always looked forward to our annual visit in the Raleigh to Port Elizabeth, although the anchorage at Algoa was a bad one, exposed to southerly gales of great violence. Of this there was grim testimony in the dismal skeletons of stranded ships each side of the Bay.

There was always a bush-buck shoot at Kragga Kamma, some miles in the country, a place owned by Mr. Henry Christian —a fine type of Englishman and an old resident. We rode out across the plains, and the guns were posted down the side of a thick brushwood. On one of these occasions, a large buck burst out a few yards in front of me suddenly and stopped, looking at me for some seconds. My righthand neighbour took my breath away by firing at the beast down the line in front of me, he missed, but might easily have had me in his bag. The buck trotted down towards the guns on the left, broke through across country and was bowled over on high ground at the back, his legs showing in the air on the sky-line. I had a few words afterwards with my neighbour and watched him carefully for the rest of the day.

The hospitality of Port Elizabeth was well-known, and officers and men were feted everywhere. We had an officers' theatrical party on board and played a burlesque at the local theatre in aid of the Children’s Hospital, realizing a good sum. The burlesque was a very old one, “The Deep Red Rover”, brought up to date, and one scene was the deck of the Nancy Bell. Two of the crew were Lieutenants Charles E. Madden 1 and Spencer de Horsey,” in striped jerseys, shiny

1 Now Admiral of the Fleet Sir Charles Madden, Bt, 1 XT A J i r* . ■»»

1 Now Admiral Spencer de Horsey.

85

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

hats and pigtails, and Lionel Halsey, 1 Midshipman, took a principal part. Madden had a beautiful voice and sang ‘‘The Lass that loved a Sailor” excellently t and was encored many times.

In August, 1890, Rear-Admiral Wells was relieved by Rear-Admiral Henry F. Nicholson, 2 and the Secretary and office staff remained with him, the new Commander-in-Chief, for the next two years.

Mr. Cecil Rhodes was then Premier and was frequently at Newlands, the home of Mr. C. D. Rudd, where I sometimes spent my week-ends. Mr. Rudd had procured the concession for the Chartered Company from Lobengula some years before. He went through many trying experiences on his mission, of which he seldom spoke. Mrs. Rudd, on one of my visits, told me that Mr. Rhodes was looking out for a private secretary and would take me if I cared. I was much inclined, for one could not but admire the man with his great Imperial ideas, and he had always made a deep impression on me; but on approaching the Admiral on the matter, he was unable to put forward my application. He had just received a strong rebuff from home firstly for allowing the discharges by purchase of some Petty Officers who went to the B.S.A. Company, and secondly for the supply of a machine-gun from the Naval Ordnance Stores, also by purchase. A Liberal Government had come in at home, and instead of being held as a great Imperial work, the Company was treated as a private commercial concern. To abandon ideas and visions,

1 Now Admiral Sir Lionel Halsey.

1 Afterwards Admiral Sir Henry Nicholson, Commander-in-Chief at the Nore.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

86

which the thought of occupying the Secretaryship to Mr. Cecil Rhodes had conjured up, was a great disappointment.

Rudyard Kipling was a visitor to the Cape in 1892, and stayed at the Naval Club, Simon’s Bay, where there was stationed a small Mess for officers. Naval and Military. He came as the guest of one of the Captains, who had been a fellow-passenger in the mail steamer from England. It was, I think, his first experience of the Royal Navy, and later a short story, “Judson and the Empire”, appeared in one of his books, “Many Inventions”, based on possibilities of which he heard during his association with Naval officers at Simon's Bay.

There were three small gunboats in reserve —the Gadfly, Griper and Tickler —of very shallow draught, known as “Flat-irons”. Their use had been contemplated at Delagoa Bay against the forts at Lorenzo Marques, if the strained relations with Portugal developed into an open breach, but other measures prevailed and they were not commissioned. In Kipling’s story, “Judson” commands one.

A great character at the Club-Mess was the Assistant Resident Magistrate, who had lost his leg as an officer in one of the Basuto wars and had joined the Cape Civil Service. If any argument required emphasizing the stump of his wooden leg would be unshipped in a flash and banged on the table —it was also used as a formidable weapon of attack, much to the surprise of any stranger in the Mess. He was a great favourite with the Navy and, in spite of being a very clever caricaturist, never made an enemy.

87

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

In August, 1892, Admiral Frederick Bedford, 1 was appointed to succeed Admiral Nicholson, who returned to England with his staff by Mail steamer. It had been a very happy four years in South Africa, and I often looked back on the rides over the Cape Peninsula, sometimes with Mrs. Nicholson, who captivated everybody, and who, like Mrs. Wells, had been a charming hostess at Admiralty House and made it a great centre of hospitality.

My appointment to the Royal Yacht, Victoria and Albert, came as a very welcome surprise before leaving the Cape, and on arrival in England, I reported myself at Portsmouth.

The summer season was over, the Court being at Balmoral and the yacht was laid up. At such times a large proportion of the crew worked in the Dockyard as riggers, and the officers and some men lived on board the old Royal George in Portsmouth Harbour. This Royal George was built in 1817 for the Regent, afterwards King George IV, and was the Royal Yacht of King William IV and of Queen Victoria. The Queen and Prince Consort took passage in her to Scotland in August, 1842, from Woolwich to Leith, the Yacht being towed by the Shearwater and Black Eagle, with the Monarch, Trident and the Trinity Yacht as escort. She was used as a hulk until 1901, was then broken up. The present (third) Victoria and Albert was first used by King Edward VII soon after ascending the Throne. The second, in which I had the honour of serving, was broken up in 1904.

The life was a great change after all my wander-

1 Afterwards Sir Frederick—Commander-in-Chief of North America and then Governor of Western Australia.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

88

ings, and was indeed new experience. Captain John R. P. Fullerton 1 was in command —one of the finest seamen in the British Navy. Another new-comer was Lieutenant Frederick C. Morgan,* and we were both presented to the Queen when Her Majesty went into residence at Osborne House, Isle of Wight, in December, 1892. I shall never forget my feelings at first seeing the Queen on board the Alberta —one of the smaller yachts in which the crossing to East Cowes was made. Her Majesty's wonderful dignity and bearing made a lasting impression ; uppermost was the thought that this gracious lady was the illustrious head of millions of subjects all over the world, and that the Empire was centred on her.

It was then the custom for the Queen to spend Christmas at Osborne, going to the French or Italian Riviera in the early spring, and crossing the Channel in the Victoria and Albert —then a stay at Windsor, Osborne again in July, with the autumn at Balmoral. We went to Flushing in January to bring the Empress Frederick of Germany across to Osborne, and Her Majesty stayed until the Queen went to Windsor. The Queen was always received on arrival by the Naval Commander-in-Chief, then Lord Clanwilliam, and by the General Commanding at Portsmouth, then H.R.H. The Duke of Connaught, who handed the Keys of Portsmouth to Her Majesty, the Admiral presenting a full list of ships in the port.

In March, the Queen crossed to Cherbourg en route to Florence, returning by way of Flushing in April. At the end of June we went to Flushing to

1 Afterwards Rear-Admiral Sir John Fullerton.

* Late Rear-Admiral F. C. Morgan.

89

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

embark the Cesarewitch, who came to England for the wedding of the Duke of York on July 6. We heard that the Russian pilot engine had been derailed in Russia on the journey through wilful damage to the line, and the Imperial train was forced to wait until it was repaired. The Cesarewitch and gorgeously uniformed Staff disembarked at Port Victoria, Sheerness, for London. On the occasion of the marriage of the Duke of York, His Royal Highness accepted from the Royal Navy a jewelled star and garter of the Order of the Garter ; there was a Committee of Naval Officers to arrange for this, of which Admiral Sir Harry Rawson was Chairman. I was invited to become Secretary.

In August, 1893, the German Emperor arrived at Cowes in the Hohenzollern, and one afternoon the Queen steamed round the Yacht in the Alberta, as it was not possible to make arrangements for Her Majesty to go on board. The Emperor, in the uniform of a British Admiral of the Fleet, saluted the Queen from a conspicuous place, and the Imperial Standard on board the Hohenzollern was dipped as the Alberta passed. The Royal Standard of Great Britain had never been dipped on any occasion other than the death of the Sovereign, and that precedent was observed, but there was much criticism after.

Sir Edmund Commerell, V.C., who had recently been created an Admiral of the Fleet and was Groom to the Queen, was attached for the visit to the suite of the Emperor and lived on board the Victoria and Albert. He put on his Full Dress to go on board the Hohenzollern on arrival, and only when he came on

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

90

deck was it noticed that the outfitter had given him six stripes on his arm instead of five, and the gold lace extended to his elbow. There was no time to make any change, and the extra stripe was noticed at once by the Emperor and Prince of Wales. The ship's tailor was in request on his return, and the outfitter had a bad time after.

For the summer season, the three Sub-Lieutenants appointed to the Victoria and Albert were Halsey, 1 Keyes 5 and Paine 5 ; and they were promoted to Lieutenants after.

While serving in the Royal Yacht from 1893 to 1895 the Officers of the Victoria and Albert were :

Rear-Admiral Sir John Fullerton

Commanders : R. N. Gresley and John Denison.

Lieut.-Commanders : W. W. Hewett, F. R. W. Morgan, Colin Keppel and C. F. Cradock.

Staff-Commander : A. W. Douglas.

Fleet-Engineer : R. S. Lee.

Fleet-Surgeon : H. C. Woods.

Fleet-Paymaster : W. H. Bowen.

Engineers : E. Sparks and G. H. Morris.

Gunner: H. Beaver.

Boatswain ; G. H. Colwell.

Chief-Carpenter : R. H. Childs.

On June 23, 1893, came the news of the sinking of the Victoria off Tripoli, Syria, with Admiral Sir George

1 Admiral Sir Lionel Halsey, Comptroller to the Prince of Wales,

* Admiral of the Fleet, Sir Roger Keyes,

1 Rear-Admiral Sir Godfrey Paine —late Inspector-General R.A.F.

91

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

Tryon, the Commander-in-Chief in the Mediterranean, who went down in the ship with many officers and men, the result of a collision with the Camperdown —a calamity which cast a shadow over the Navy and the Nation. Lord Gilford, eldest son of the Earl of Clanwilliam, Commander-in-Chief at Portsmouth —FlagLieutenant to Sir George Tryon—was among the survivors ; and the family returned thanks at the Dockyard Church on the following Sunday.

In the autumn, the Duchess of Albany with the little Duke and Princess Alice went for a cruise in the Victoria and Albert to the West Coast of Scotland, but the programme had to be curtailed as the Princess developed chicken-pox, and the Duke was sent back to Claremont. We had visited Loch Fyne and Inverary, Oban and Mull.

In January, 1894, I was invited to take part in a play at Osborne, and had a very busy fortnight there rehearsing. Helping Hands, by Tom Taylor, was selected by Her Majesty. My part was an excellent one, and the opposite female role was played admirably

by Miss M. Ponsonby. I was there in the place of Mr. Arthur Ponsonby 1 who had been called away unexpectedly for a Foreign Office examination. The Honble. Alexander Yorke, a well-known amateur actor, made a most efficient stage manager. There were two performances on a well-fitted stage in the Indian Room, and many guests invited. The play was a great success and the players were complimented by the Queen after the performance; Charles Yorke 1 and I were

1 Now Lord Ponsonby.

* Now The Earl of Hardwicke.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

92

the proud recipients of diamond pins from Her Majesty.

Soon after, the Empress Frederick crossed in the Royal Yacht from Flushing and Her Imperial Majesty told me that Helping Hands was the first play she remembered. She had been taken by Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort to see it, with Mr. and Mrs. Keeley in the principal parts.

There were tableaux vivants at Osborne the next winter and on New Year's Day a large dinner-party in the Indian Room, and dancing after in another room, which the Queen watched. The old Pas-de-quatre —known as the Barn Dance —which Her Majesty had never seen, was danced and a “Kitchen Lancers" was suggested, but as the name was not quite liked, ordinary Lancers took its place. The life of the party was the Honble. Bertha Lambart, one of the Maids of Honour.

One of the Ladies of the Court had a young relative, a junior officer in the Cambrian, commanded by Captain H. S. H. Prince Louis of Battenberg, on the Mediterranean Station. The boy returned to England and went to see his relation and had the honour of being presented to the Queen. Her Majesty asked him about his ship and station, and though the young officer was at first somewhat overcome by the situation and surroundings, he gradually opened out and told the Queen that his colleagues in the other ships of the Squadron were jealous of the Cambrian, and that he and his messmates were referred to as the “Potsdam Guards". This was not quite understood at first, until the boy explained that it was on account of their Captain, to whom they were all devoted, and

93

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

because they were so much smarter than the other ships. We heard that the Queen was immensely amused at the boy’s frankness and revelation of gun-room jealousies.

In the winter of 1895 there was a very cold spell, and we had six weeks' skating at Portsmouth which took the place of beagling; many of us belonged to the Gosport and Fareham pack. Colin Keppel took French, and I German lessons during two winters.

An Italian squadron, under the Duke of Genoa, visited Spithead in the summer, and a large committee worked in preparation for a series of entertainments. In the summer the German Emperor paid another visit to Cowes, and there the Queen gave a large party at Osborne to which many of us were commanded. The Emperor was in the uniform of the Ist Royal Dragoons, of which he was Honorary Colonel, and it was very pretty to see his attention to Her Majesty when she leant on his arm on leaving the drawing-room.

When Her Majesty was in residence at Osborne, no one went on shore until orders as to Yacht's requirements for the day were received. An officer from the Queen’s Guard at East Cowes went every morning to see the Equerry-in-Waiting, to receive those for the Guard. A subaltern was once returning from Osborne and some way off, in the grounds, saw the Queen approaching in her pony carriage. He was shy and nervous and thinking he had not been seen, hid behind some thick bushes to wait until the little procession had passed; but to his horror the carriage stopped opposite his hiding-place and a voice said : “Will the officer please come out” ; and he had to appear.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

94

In November, 1895, King Carlos of Portugal crossed in the Victoria and Albert from Flushing, and the Yacht was then laid up for some months. My friend, Scarlett de P. Taylor, who had been AssistantPaymaster in charge in the Royal Yacht Osborne, was discharged on promotion and I succeeded him "in charge”.

During my time, 1895 —1898, the officers of the Royal Yacht Osborne were :

Captains : G. A. Primrose and Charles

Windham.

Lieut.-Commanders: Bryan G. Godfrey

Faussett, E. G. W. Davy, The Lord

Gilford and R. G. A. Stapleton Cotton.

Staff-Commander : Herbert Roxby.

Fleet-Engineer ; James F. Babb.

Engineers : F. Hore and H. Turner.

Gunner : T. Owens.

Boatswain : J. Saxon.

Chief-Carpenter : E. G. Main.

In January, 1896, there was another theatrical performance at Osborne, in which a part was given me. It was Pinero’s Money Spinner, a somewhat difficult play for amateurs, but the first night went off well and Her Majesty had a large party.

While staying at Osborne, the news of the Jameson Raid astounded the world, and Mr. Joseph Chamberlain, Secretary of State for the Colonies, arrived a day or two after for an audience. The same evening there was a private concert in the drawing-room, to which the house-

95

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

hold and guests staying were invited. Johannes Wolff, the violinist, played. During the evening a telegram was received from President Kruger relating to the raiders, who were in custody in Pretoria, The music was stopped, Mr. Chamberlain delivered the telegram to Her Majesty, and a reply was dictated. It was known the next day that the President had exercised great clemency towards his prisoners. The telegram to the President from the German Emperor will be well remembered and two' days after, by an extraordinary coincidence, a Special Squadron under RearAdmiral Dale, consisting of three battleships and three cruisers was formed. This was taken by the Press as being a warning to Germany—but orders for the commissioning of the ships had been approved before the raid took place. There had been some trouble with the United States of America over Venezuela at this time.

Soon after there was some considerable anxiety about Prince Henry of Battenberg, who had volunteered for service in the Ashanti War. He had been invalided with a bad type of fever, carried to the coast and safely embarked in the Blonde, which left for Madeira, but he died on board at sea, and the ship put back to Cape Coast Castle, to report the tragic news by telegraph. He had rallied previously, and the unexpected news was a terrible shock to the Queen and the bereaved Royal widow. The news came the morning after the theatricals, and the guests left Osborne at once. The body of the Prince was taken to Madeira where it was transhipped to the Blenheim and brought home. The funeral took place at Whip-

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

96

pingham on February 5 in the presence of the Queen, the Prince and Princess of Wales and Royal Family. It was very sad, as the Prince only went to Ashanti because he was anxious to take part in active service for England.

In July, 1896, the Osborne brought the Crown Prince and Princess of Denmark and family to England for the marriage of Prince Charles of Denmark to Princess Maud of Wales 1 ; and many of us went to Marlborough House on the 22nd, the day of the wedding.

In the summer, at Cowes, the great Chinese Minister, Li Hung Chang, came to visit the Queen and Prince of Wales, and lunched at Osborne, and saw the Fleet assembled at Spithead after manoeuvres. Then in September we went to Copenhagen.

The Russian Royal Yachts Standart and Polar Star lay there in attendance on the Tsar and Tsaritsa who were staying at Bernsdorff with the King and Queen of Denmark, as were also the Princess of Wales and Princess Victoria. We saw much of the Danish and Russian Royal Families and dined one night at Charlottenberg with the Crown Prince and Princess of Denmark and family.

The Diamond Jubilee year, 1897, was a very busy one. On Sunday, June 20, the actual Accession Day, I had tickets for the afternoon service at St. George’s Chapel, Windsor, and was able to take my mother, who had come up from Cornwall. The choir sang the Hymn of Praise —with Madame Albani and Edward Lloyd. Nearly all the Royal Family were present,

1 Now King and Queen of Norway.

97

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

and it was most impressive. At the end was the National Anthem, the first verse of which Albani sang alone.

For the Jubilee procession on June 22, we had seats in the Royal Household stand in the courtyard of Buckingham Palace, and saw Her Majesty leave for St. Paul’s Cathedral and return. The troops from the Dominions and Colonies and the visiting Premiers drove past first —each with a local escort. In one of the front windows of the Palace Miss Florence Nightingale looked on by the special invitation of Her Majesty.

For the Naval Review, the Osborne was deputed to take Foreign Representatives attending the Jubilee Celebrations, other than Royal, with many of the visiting suites. It was then found that she could not accommodate half the number, so we were turned over to the P. & O. Carthage, chartered for the day, and followed in the Procession after the Victoria and Albert.

For some weeks I had been at Portsmouth working on the Jubilee Entertainments Committee. There were in addition to a huge Admiralty banquet and ball at the Town Hall for the foreign naval officers, entertainments and international sports for the men, a large garden party at Whale Island, and some event every day while the ships were at Spithead.

A story was told of a British bluejacket who took a French visitor to see his family at Gosport after one of the luncheons. They exchanged their uniform caps going across the harbour in the ferry boat and seemed very happy. The visitor was a bit too demon-

Osborne

ajth-ayth January, 1894

Admiral of the Fleet, The Honourable Sir Henry Keppcl, G.C.B.

100

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

strative, and his host was heard to say that he didn't mind changing hats, but the next time "You tries to kiss me, overboard you goes!”

King Kulalongkorn of Siam visited England in the summer in his yacht, the Mahachakrkri, and came to Cowes. He was received by Queen Victoria, lunched with Her Majesty at Osborne House, and visited the Prince and Princess of Wales on board the Osborne.

We went to Copenhagen in September by way of the (Kiel) Kaiser Wilhelm Canal—with the Princess of Wales and Princess Victoria. Admiral of the Fleet Sir Henry Keppel was a guest, and stayed on board the Osborne at Copenhagen; everyone was devoted to him and one of us took him on shore sightseeing each day, when he was not at the Palace. The Prince of Wales came to Copenhagen for a short visit and went to Aarhuus in the Osborne for shooting at Count and Countess Frij's place, Frisenbourg.

We lunched one day with the officers of the Russian Imperial Yacht Standart. Sir Henry Keppel was the principal guest, and was asked to inspect the ship’s company fallen in. He was a little taken aback when they all, with one huge voice, welcomed him. The bluejackets were picked men of magnificent physique. When the Admiral started to walk down the line, their faces were all turned towards him, and as he walked past the head followed so that they were always looking at him —the effect was most striking. Later in the day after returning to the Osborne, a young Grand Duchess amused everyone by inquiring whether the men had “barked” at the Admiral!

The night before leaving Denmark we all dined

F

101

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

with the King and Queen at Bernstorff Palace. It was a most interesting gathering and the Princess of Wales, as always, looked and was so charming. We were told to appear in ordinary plain clothes —evening dress. Following custom, the King drank our healths separately. We were warned before dinner that this would be the case. His Majesty caught one’s eye and bowed — one stood up and bowed and drank—and bowed again, with the glass held to show that it was empty. During the evening, the King invested Sir Henry Keppel with the Grand Cross of the Dannebrog Order.

In the summer of 1898, the Prince of Wales broke his knee-cap—the result of a fall while staying with Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild; and His Royal Highness was on board the Osborne for some weeks. A raised platform was made enabling the Prince to watch the yacht racing at Cowes, and the after part of the ship was covered over with a roof with glass sides. He had a couch on wheels; and inclined planes leading to the bridge made transport easy. Sir William MacCormac was constantly on board and Dr. Alfred Fripp (afterwards Sir Alfred), and Sir Francis Laking lived on board. The Prince was full of courage and always cheerful, though at times he suffered considerably. The Queen visited H.R.H. on board the Osborne twice during our stay.

At this time. Signor Marconi was invited to fit his newly discovered wireless telegraph arrangements on board the Osborne and was a fortnight with us. A receiving station was fitted at Osborne House, and the Queen received a daily bulletin from the Yacht.

The Osborne was the first of Her Majesty’s ships

102

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

to carry wireless. Marconi was then only able to get messages through a short distance. On one occasion, when the Yacht was at St. Helen’s Bay in the Isle of Wight, communication stopped and the inventor said the hill above the bay blocked the waves, but he hoped soon to be able to get sixty miles off. He once remarked in the mess that he was much indebted to Lieutenant H. B. Jackson 1 for his eminent researches, which had been of the greatest assistance.

The Duke of York, now His Majesty the King, was in command of the Crescent this summer of 1898, and she was at Cowes for some time.

Towards the end of August, the Osborne went for a cruise in the English Channel and visited Portland first. Their Royal Highnesses Princess Victoria of Wales, Princess Marie, and Prince Nicholas of Greece, were on board throughout the cruise. We went to Plymouth Sound and lay in Barnpool cove, and the Prince of Wales was landed in his chair and had a drive in Mount Edgcumbe Park, after having been on board the Osborne for a month.

The Princesses with Prince Nicholas and a party from the Yacht went up the Tamar to Cotehele House, belonging to Lord Mount Edgcumbe, and some of us had lawn tennis at Mount Edgcumbe. Dartmouth and its lovely river were next visited ; then came a short stay at Torquay and we returned to Portland and Cowes.

Among the guests on board for the cruise were the Marquis de Several, the Portuguese Minister and Chevalier de Martino, the noted marine artist.

1 The late Admiral of the Fleet —Sir Henry Jackson.

103

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

The Prince of Wales and the Princesses and Prince Nicholas stayed for a few days at Osborne House, with the suite and servants. The Queen was in residence at Balmoral. By this time His Royal Highness could walk, and he returned to London almost well again, after a long and very trying time.

Before leaving he addressed the officers of the Osborne in one of those charming and inimitable speeches of which he was a master, and each felt that, in some way or other, there had been an individual contribution to the Prince’s final recovery to health.

In September, 1898, came the deplorable news that the Queen of Denmark had died and that the Empress of Austria had been assassinated at Geneva.

Early in 1899, the Osborne had orders to prepare for a cruise in the Mediterranean, and as I had been promoted to Paymaster, I only remained in her temporarily. Rear-Admiral L. A. Beaumont had been selected as next Commander-in-Chief of the Pacific Station, and had asked me to serve as his Secretary; so I was discharged from the Osborne when she left England in February.

When the Queen crossed to Portsmouth from Osborne that month, I was sent for to take leave on board the Alberta after my service in the Royal Yachts, and shall ever remember Her Majesty's last gracious words.

The Warspite, an old battleship, was selected as the Pacific Flagship. She had been looked upon as almost finished, but was brought out of the Reserve at Chatham, refitted and commissioned. This was false economy, for after steaming to Esquimalt with

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

104

difficulty, she had to be laid up to wait for new boiler tubes, sent from England, and across the Canadian Pacific Railway, to make her ordinarily efficient.

Rear-Admiral Beaumont's Flag was hoisted at Sheerness and Flag-Captain Thomas P. Walker and Flag-Lieutenant B. A. Pratt-Barlow and I, made up the Staff. After a short stay in Plymouth Sound we left for the Pacific on April 20, 1899. A few friends came on board for a farewell lunch, including my father and sister from Cornwall. We called at Madeira, and from St. Vincent, Cape Verde, were going to Rio de Janeiro; but that visit was abandoned on account of yellow fever —the second time I had missed seeing the place—and we went direct to Monte Video. There was little to do before reaching our station, and some of us worked hard at Spanish—which was of much use in South America.

Admiral Beaumont had been Director of Naval Intelligence at the Admiralty, and talked of many things. He gave as his opinion that war with Germany eventually was inevitable, and even ventured that the time would be about the year 1915 —when the Kiel Canal would be enlarged. This was completed a year earlier, so his judgment was not far wrong.

A week after leaving Monte Video, we passed Cape Virgins, crossing the south-eastern limit of the Pacific Station, and entering the famed Straits of Magellan, we called for a short stay at Punta Arenas —Sandy Point. On account of the absence of lighthouses and owing to dangerous navigation, it was considered advisable for a heavy ship to anchor each night. Port Famine was our next stop ; here we sent a party on

105

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

shore to repair a cross on the grave of Commander Pringle Stokes —a surveyor who died there in 1828, the inscription stating: “In very sad circumstances”.

Passing Cape Froward, with snow-covered peaks towering above, the next day we anchored in Borja Bay, a peaceful spot lying under three mountains with forest trees down to the water's edge. Close in shore we were surprised to see a small sailing craft in this desolate spot, and soon after a boat brought her owner off. He turned out to be a Swiss naturalist, named De Sausoures, who had been exploring the forests of South Patagonia in the hopes of finding the skeleton of a giant prehistoric sloth, which had been reported by natives, and had already found fossil traces to encourage his search. We found him a most interesting visitor, and he left with supplies of food and tobacco, but we never heard of him again.

“Magellan’s Voyages” were in great request on board and one marvelled at the achievements made in a small vessel, against almost incredible hardships and adversity, by the intrepid explorer.

It was bitterly cold, but we had calm weather such as is not often experienced so far south in qjid-winter. The scenery was magnificent—huge mountains and glaciers on each side, some quite enormous and flowing down the valleys in great waves to the sea —with huge fissures of a beautiful pale blue-green tint. At Wadsworth Bay, a waterfall over a thousand feet high came into view, and on reaching Cape Pillar and turning to the north, a gigantic westerly swell was a reminder of recent storms.

The Warspite rolled at the slightest provocation—

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

106

she had a 9-inch gun barbette projecting amidships each side, and in this swell became alarmingly active. Everything not lashed up or screwed down, took charge; among other things the Admiral’s diningtable, mercifully after dinner. No one had imagined how far the ship could roll without capsizing, and an unpleasant feature was a “hang” at the end of each roll as if undecided as to returning. The rifles in the arm racks on the half-decks outside the cabins kept everyone awake with their monotonous rattle as they moved to and fro throughout the night.

Both the Warspite and Imperieuse were battleships built after a French design, and originally had two masts and yards; but, after trials, the sails were abolished as there was not room for the leads of the ropes on the upper deck. One mast was then taken out. The remaining mast was just a spar. The ships were thus rendered more seaworthy.

At Lima, we saw much of our Minister, Mr. W. N. Beauclerk, and his wife, a daughter of Sir Robert Hart—of China Customs fame —and heard much of the rule of the Priests in Peru ; and an account of the revolution of a few years ago. In many streets of Lima, houses still showed bullet-marks on their walls. The Minister bore an extraordinary resemblance to Charles 11, of whom he was a descendant.

On the way to Esquimalt, we called at Paita, in Peru, celebrated for a breed of hairless dogs, the Tobago Islands, Panama, Port Culebra, Costa Rica, and Acapulco, Mexico. Passing the Gulf of California,

the thermometer was only Bo°, but the sea was 84°, and the damp heat in an armoured ship was almost

107

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

unbearable. Scores of turtle were passed lying about on the oily-looking sea, and nearly everyone slept on deck each night. Soon after our arrival at Esquimalt, news came of the Boer War, and in the San Francisco and Californian Press which was very anti-English, the most was made of our losses. At the end of October, a first contingent of British Columbian troops — Militia Volunteers —went from Victoria, 8.C., amidst great excitement. We felt it very much being out of everything in this far-away corner of the North Pacific.

Early in December, 1899, we left for a long cruise to the extreme south; the rainy season had set in and all were thankful to get away. Outside Cape Flattery, we met a heavy gale and had a very rough passage, being in consequence, some days behind our programme ; but it was a sheer delight to arrive at Monterey—south of San Francisco—in bright sun and warmer weather. A day’s golf at the Hotel del Monte with Sereld Hay,' one of our Lieutenants, was a change ; the greens (?) were of hard sand, better than they sound.

On going to the hotel with the Admiral after a walk one afternoon, we found that the American versions and pictures of our reverses at the Tugela River and elsewhere in South Africa, which appeared in the San Francisco papers, were almost more than we could stand, and we left the place. The general attitude was very unfriendly to the British.

We had gunnery and other exercises at Magdalena Bay, an enormous harbour in Southern California,

1 Now Commander the Honble. Sereld Hay, retired through ill-health

Royal Yacht Osborne, with His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales living on board. She was fitted with wireless instruments by Signor Marconi—aerial shows between masts, 1898 ”

Peru Railway across Andes. Lima to Oroya, Qucbrada dc Cacray. n.ooo feet

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

89

with the Phaeton, Icarus and Pheasant of the Squadron, and all were inspected. It was an ideal place for ship work with no town attractions. On Christmas Day we had a shooting-party near some lagoons at the head of the harbour and brought back a good bag of curlew, plover and duck. A large seining party caught enough fish for the officers and men of all four ships—rays, bream, garfish and boneta.

The arrival of the year 1900, gave rise to much argument whether it was the last year of the 19th century or the first of the 20th, and the majority were for the former.

Acapalco, Mexico, the next place visited, is looked on as almost the hottest place in the world, and we thought it so. Officers and men revelled in bathing from excellent beaches. There were too many sharks m the harbour to permit us to bathe from the ship. After coaling, we went on to San Jose de Guatemala—an open roadstead. From the anchorage four magnificent volcanoes were in sight, inactive then, but they have spread disaster and desolation since.

The British Minister, Mr. Jenner, conveyed an invitation from the President of Guatemala, Don Estrado de Cabrera, to the Admiral and three officers for a visit to the city, about seventy miles off; and a special train was provided. Several officers from the Warspite, Phaeton, and Icarus also joined our party. We were put up at a good hotel and after official visits had been paid, were free. There was a gala performance at the Opera, and we heard La Boheme for the first time, quite well sung by an Italian company, and the next night the President gave a banquet. We

111

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

marched up a marble staircase with laurel leaves strewn on the steps ; at each side stood Presidential troops as a guard of honour, with fixed bayonets, the rifles being held at an angle pointing to the top of the stairs. On our departure they were turned the opposite way as we descended. One of our Legation told me that, they were all loaded, and that the troops were careless and badly trained.

The banquet was very well done and the guests included all the Corps Diplomatique. The doyen was the German Minister, and I sat between the Spanish Minister and the Columbian Envoy. During the President's speech of welcome, a large sugar and tinsel model of a ship flying the Guatemalian flag, with a stuffed dove tied to the mainmast, was brought in with ceremony. This was a symbol of the peaceful relations existing between the Republic and Great Britain, and was placed before the President. I noticed two officers with drawn revolvers, standing behind the latter during the whole of dinner, and was told by a neighbour that they were Colonels of his guard ; also that he was not eating anything we were given, but that his mother cooked everything placed before him for fear of poison. She lived in a small house near the President’s Palace. We were told that he had shot his predecessor point-blank in the street ; and had a network of spies at work continuously. Anyone suspected of being an enemy, disappeared. He rarely left the Palace except for an early gallop daily for exercise. However, he was President for many years and eventually died a natural death. We had a most cordial welcome from all, and much enjoyed the visit.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

112

The climate was delightful and the fine city, being in the higher region, much cooler than the coast. On the way down to San Jose the railway passed through magnificent scenery, three volcanoes dominating the surrounding country, and we lunched near the hot lake Amatitlam.

Panama was our next port. We went by train across the Isthmus to Colon and washed our hands in the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans on the same day. There was much work going on, particularly in the Culebra cutting, but the United States had not taken over the works then, and there was talk of an American canal being made through Nicaragua, utilizing lakes. Mr. Claude Mallet, our Consul at Panama, was most helpful and hospitable. The news from South Africa at each place on the way South was most depressing.

While lying at Callao, the Admiral was invited to go over the Andes on the Lima-Oroya railway, one of the great engineering feats of the world. The journey was much facilitated by the President of Peru, who kindly placed his private car at the Admiral's disposal, and he took four officers from the ship. At Lima we were joined by the Prefet Maritime of Callao and two Peruvian officers. The plains were left behind and we soon commenced the ascent of the mountains, which became more and more imposing, and at Matucana, 8,000 feet up, we left the train and were taken to the hotel, where it had been arranged for us to stay the night—so as to get acclimatized to the rarified air, which often brings on a most trying mountain sickness if the rise is made too abruptly.

113

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

It was early in the afternoon and we were told of a celebrated silver mine at Casapalca, forty miles on, which there was ample time to visit and return to the hotel. However, soon after starting we were continually delayed by the slowness of a goods train ahead, and arrived at the mine much later than intended. An American manager, Mr. Henry Guyer, took us over the workings and we saw llamas laden with silver ore for the smelting works. These beasts of burden know almost to the ounce the weight they can carry, and if by any chance a sack is heavier than it ought to be, the llama refuses to budge, lies down and spits. They are the most patient and tractable animals as a rule, but as stubborn as the worst donkey at times.

A drizzly rain started and on return to our car, the engine-driver said it would be unsafe to descend to Matucana, as the little train, consisting of only the car, engine, and tender, was too light, and he feared the possibility of it going off the rails made slippery by the rain, on the steep descent. The manager had gone back to his house, some way from the station, and we decided to stay at a very uninviting-looking inn—the only one there. It was nearly dark and we could lie down in the dining-room for the night. This seemed the only alternative, as there was no sleeping accommodation in the tiny car, so we ordered a meal amidst a crowd of rough-looking miners and halfcastes, all muffled up with scarves, who were drinking and playing a sort of billiards. The place was indescribably dirty. It was bitterly cold outside, and by this time we were all more or less affected by the altitude —

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

114

13,600 feet. When soup, a nasty concoction, apppeared, one of the Peruvian officers in the party pushed his plate away and dropped his head on the table with arms outstretched and seemed unconscious, so he was laid on the floor. We all began to have the most splitting headaches and eating was out of the question. Then the manager of the mine, who had been told of our troubles, appeared, and insisted on our going to his house although he only had one spare bedroom; we had shake-downs on the floor in other rooms, covered with skins and rugs, and spent a most wretched night, regretting the comfortable rooms forty miles below, where our things had been left.

The next morning the Peruvians decided not to go on to the summit of the railway—they were suffering so, and our party went on in the car to Monte Meggs—l7,s7o feet —where one had no breath and could only talk in a whisper. This mountain sickness made one feel as if all one’s internal arrangements were trying to burst out; and it takes a day or two to get them seasoned.

Captain Walker, the Flag-Captain and I, were able to walk very slowly up to a glacier—only about a hundred feet, and found sturdy little Indians cutting blocks of ice out for tropical Lima and Callao, but we could not speak. Emerging from the Galera tunnel, under Monte Meggs, views of the interior towards Oroya and the sources of some of the branches of the Amazon —miles away and below —burst on us and the wonderful panorama spread out was alone worth coming to see, but we were all more or less anxious to leave the heights and restore our equilibrium, so

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

115

it was with much relief that we got into our car again and began the descent.

The railway, with its many bridges and tunnels, requires a more facile pen than mine to do justice to all that we saw. It was the work of British engineers and money. We were told that every known description of bridge had been used, and there certainly was a great variety, for each seemed to differ from the next.

It was an amazing experience standing in front of the car, for every now and then we would come out of a tunnel in the face of a mountain, flash across a bridge which seemed terribly flimsy, and looking down through the spaces between sleepers, saw mountain torrents foaming below, and before we knew where we were our little train would rush into another tunnel. On each side were mountain peaks towering above us and the remains of Inca cultivation were often seen—terraced walls, which, centuries old, told of work done when the country was thickly populated, and teeming with wealth.

The railway is so cleverly built that the great heights are not realized. It winds round and round the mountains. In some places the engineers had found it necessary to cross valleys; and at times the line climbs the side of a mountain the reverse way to which we were eventually going, then the train would be run on to a turntable and we were soon going on the right way—deep down below at places we saw the way we had come. Every now and then we passed, high up the mountain side, strings of llamas on the tracks, laden with sacks of ore bound for the smelters,

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

116

but there were little signs of present-day cultivation, and only the terraced places of the ancient Incas.

The descent did not take many hours, and from the snow and ice of the summit we were soon sweltering in the heat of Lima—a very rapid change, but it was a relief to breathe normally once more.

Coquimbo was our next port. Here we had, in those days, a small Naval Depot, and a guard and prison-ship, the Liffey. We made good use of our service lawn tennis courts. One morning we experienced a small earthquake and the sea receded from the beach, which alarmed the inhabitants whose houses were near, but nothing further happened. All we felt on board the Warspite was the rattling of the cables as if something was pulling the bows down. There have been many disastrous tidal waves in that part of Chile.

In the south of Chile, we found Valdivia, a German-looking spot, the river with boat-clubs and flags flying, large breweries and taverns, a most prosperous place. On the way north, at Talcahuano, the Chilean Naval Base, we received the good news of the relief of Ladysmith and better tidings of the war. Then, after a few days at Valparaiso, where we saw the President of Chile, Senor Errazuriz, and our Minister, Mr. Audley Gosling. We were entertained at Vina del Mar, a fine club with a polo ground, golf-course, tennis courts and a race-course, and there was a great gathering of British and other residents.

At Coquimbo there was much riding, we were given a day’s partridge-shooting, and visited many country houses. Everyone was most hospitable.

117

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

Callao and Acapulco were called at on the way north and we were glad to get to our base after the five months’ cruise to the south. Then came the good news of the relief of Mafeking.

On May 24, 1900, we landed a Naval Brigade and had a march-past on Macaulay Plains to celebrate the Queen’s Birthday.

We cruised round Vancouver Island, later to Barclay Sound, Alberni, Nootka Sound, Alert Bay, and through the Seymour Narrows to Duncan Bay. In places there were large Indian Reserves and native settlements of the Siwashi tribe —not a prepossessing lot —but their totems, some of great age, were interesting.

Off the Campbell River we had some sport with the spring salmon, and Hay and I killed twenty-three before breakfast from four to ten one morning. We were each in a small canoe with an Indian who knew exactly where to go, and by the time the tide changed and the fish were not rising, it was a relief to land and stretch ourselves on the sand, for there was little room in the boat and one was much cramped, but we had an exciting time.

The Governor-General and Lady Minto came across from Ottawa in the summer with their young family of two boys and three delightful daughters. Lord and Lady Minto went on to Klondyke, and the children remained at Victoria. We took them for trips in the Barge and a watchful eye had to be kept on them, or they would have been overboard. In the ship they were known as the “Peppermintos" on account of their youthful spirits and keenness. The

Spring salmon killed between 4 and 10 a.m. off entrance to Campbell River, Vancouver Island, July, 1900. Tw\\n Lieutenant the Hon. Screld Hay and the Author

Esquimalt, Vancouver Island

Koval Salute on occasion of Sisi Birthday of J ler Majesty Queen Victoria, 24th May, 1900. (She died 22nd January, 1901) H.M.S. Icarus H.M.S. Phaeton H.M.S. War spile H.M.S. Arethusa Flagship of Rear- Admiral (in smoke) 1.. A. Beaumont, Commandcr-in-Chicf 1 H.M.S. Pheasant

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

120

second boy, known as the "Commodore" was, alas ! destined to fall in the Great War.

The ship went to Comox periodically for gun practice and torpedo and other exercises. We hired private skiffs and were able to do much fishing in spare time. Two small torpedo boats, generally in reserve at Esquimalt, were commissioned in the summer and used for training, and were most useful in inside waters. There were also two destroyers, the Virago and Sparrowhawk, one always being in commission.

The Admiral left the ship after a little time at Comox and the Flag-Lieutenant and I returned to Esquimalt with him, for there was much daily work in connection with the Naval Establishment there. So we missed much of the sport that our shipmates enjoyed. Our Chaplain, the Revd. H. Wansbrough, killed a 45-pound salmon, and fish of from twenty to forty pounds were often taken.

We had much work in regard to the pelagic seal fisheries in the Behring Sea, and two ships were always away patrolling the Straits in the summer. Others were employed in the southern part and were changed periodically, it was an enormous station to control, from North to South, and the arrangements for reliefs, periodical refits at Esquimalt, and regular visiting of ports in Central and South America required constant attention.

The hospitality at Victoria, 8.C., was endless and the names of families such as Dunsmuir, Loewen,

G

121

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

Barnard, Martin, Bostock, Mathews, Prior, Pemberton and Pooley, will bring back pleasant memories to old Pacific officers.

Esquimalt, the headquarters of the old Pacific Squadron, had a beautiful harbour, surrounded by pinewoods with a narrow entrance; a large, wellequipped dockyard, good Naval hospital, canteen, club, officers, and men’s recreation grounds, all now mostly abandoned. Not far across the Juan da Fuica Straits, in Washington territory, which previously had been British, are the United States towns Seattle and Tacoma. Seattle has developed enormously, being the port of departure for the Yukon goldfields, and always considered itself much superior to Tacoma, a comparatively peaceful place without the bustle and advanced life of its neighbour. There was great rivalry between the two, and in a Seattle paper, replying in verse to some reflections made in a Tacona paper against the very up-to-date town —finished with “Sleep on Tacoma—but don’t snore."

Excursion steamers often came across to see the British ships at Esquimalt, and once a party of about a hundred representatives of the U.S. Press visited the Flagship and were shown round. On leaving, the steamer circled the ship, and the visitors showed their appreciation by shouting in unison the improvised yell:

“Ra ! Ra ! Ra ! Wales and his Ma

Editors ! Editors ! Minnessota.”

The steamer was the Yosemite, termed by the blue-

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

122

jackets “Yose Might”, on the same principle as the Hermione is always the “Hermi One” .

I had hoped for leave to go on a shooting trip in the Selkirk Mountains on the mainland with a New Westminster friend, who was connected with the Indian Department and native protection, but in October, the Admiral received a letter from Mr. Goschen, First Lord of the Admiralty, offering him the Australian Command. He had been specially chosen on account of the Federation of the six States, and the work in connection with a new Naval Agreement which this would entail.

Rear-Admiral A. K. Bickford, the new Com-mander-in-Chief, with my old shipmate in the Victoria and Albert —Colin Keppel, 1 Flag-Captain, and Paymaster R. Glutton Baker, Secretary, arrived early in December and with the Flag-Lieutenant Pratt-Barlow and Assistant-Paymasters W. J. Killpartrick and E. H. Dyer of the Admiral’s office, I left Victoria in the Canadian Australian steamer Warrimoo for Sydney. We had an exceptionally rough passage to Honolulu, where on Christmas Day a dinner with our Consul, Mr. Walker, was a pleasant break in the journey. We were thankful to reach our destination, Sydney, on January 10, 1901. On New Year's Day there had been great celebrations in connection with the inauguration of the Commonwealth of Australia.

1 Admiral Sir Colin Keppel, K.C.V.O, Sergeant-at-Arms in the House of Commons.

CHAPTER 111

1901 —1908

Secretary to Rear-Admiral Lewis A. Beaumont, Com-mander-in-Chief Australian Station —Private Secretary to Admiral Sir Harry Rawson, Governor of New South Wales, and to the Lord Northcote, Governor-General of the Commonwealth of Australia.

REAR-ADMIRAL BEAUMONT took over the - command of the Australian Station from RearAdmiral Pearson at Sydney in January, and with Mrs. Beaumont and Miss Margaret Rawson, 1 went into residence at Admiralty House, Kirribilli Point, on the north shore of the harbour.

The Earl of Hopetoun, Governor-General, and Lady Hopetoun, were then at Government House, Sydney. He had been a very popular Governor of Victoria in years past and his appointment as the first Governor-General of the new Commonwealth of Australia was hailed with satisfaction throughout the country. On his landing to be sworn in as GovernorGeneral at the Centennial Park at Sydney, the capital of the Mother State, on January x, he received a national welcome followed by a week of functions and festivities.

On January 21, grave news arrived from England of the state of health of the Queen, and on the 22nd

1 Daughter of the late Commander Wyatt Rawson of Tel-El-Kcbir fame —now Lady Duff, wife of Admiral Sir Arthur Duff.

101

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

it was officially announced that Her Majesty had passed away. There was general consternation and sorrow —everyone from the highest to the lowest wore mourning, and it was difficult to appreciate that a wonderful life of true service to the millions of people in the British Empire had ended. The first intimation was received in an Admiralty telegram to the Com-mander-in-Chief, who communicated at once with the Governor-General and Prime Minister ; eighty-one minute guns were fired from the Flagship Royal Arthur, and ships present.

Towards the end of January, I received a private letter from one of Her late Majesty's suite, dated December 5, 1900, mentioning anxiety as to the Queen's health and that her strength seemed failing—but nothing had ever appeared in the public Press. It had been arranged that the Duke and Duchess of York should open the First Parliament of the Commonwealth in May, and although it was thought at first that the visit would be abandoned, in February it was definitely decided that their Royal Highnesses would come for the ceremony.

There was much to do in connection with taking over the Station, and the Admiral had many interviews with the Prime Minister, Sir Edmund Barton, and the Minister of Defence, Sir John Forrest, for with Federation a new Naval Agreement was necessary. They were given a comprehensive paper on the principles of Naval defence and sea-power; and this was eventually used as a basis for a revised arrangement. The joint control of the New Hebrides by France and England had always been a thorny problem and there

125

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

was generally friction going on somewhere. As preparations had to be taken in hand at once for the forthcoming Royal visit, the early days of the new command were more than fully occupied.

Since Earl Beauchamp’s departure no Governor had been appointed to New South Wales. The duties were carried out by the Chief Justice, Sir Frederick Darley, who was also Lieutenant-Governor, who had been many years in the State, dignified and courteous, respected and esteemed by everyone.

When definite news arrived of the movements of the Orient R.M.S. Ophir —the ship selected and commissioned as one of H.M. ships for the forthcoming voyage of the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall and York —the Admiral made detailed arrangements for a reception squadron to be at each port on the ship’s arrival. There was a somewhat motley collection of ships in the Station to draw from. He entrusted me with the work of organizing the coaling of the Ophir and ships throughout the visit to Australia and New Zealand. All the Royal Visit orders for every place to be visited were printed and distributed before the Ophir arrived in Australian waters.

Early in May we went to Melbourne in the Royal Arthur, Flagship, accompanied by three cruisers. The United States ship Brooklyn, Dutch, Noord Brabant, German, Hansa and Cormoran, and Russian, Gromoboi, sent by their respective Governments for the celebrations, had already assembled in the harbour.

The Ophir arrived in Hobson Bay on May 5, and anchored at Mornington, the Flagship and cruisers

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

126

meeting her in single line and saluting as she passed to the anchorage. She brought as escort ships the cruisers Juno and St. George. At a dinner given by their Royal Highnesses on board that night, there were present, in addition to the Duke of Cornwall and York, four officers who had been at Melbourne in the Detached Squadron just twenty years before:

Commodore in command of the Ophir, the late Admiral Sir Alfred Winsloe, who had been FlagLieutenant to Lord Clanwilliam in the Inconstant, Flagship; Commander Rosslyn E. Wemyss, of the Ophir, who had been a Midshipman in the Bacchante, now Admiral of the Fleet the Lord Wemyss ; Commander the late Sir Charles Cust, Bt., Equerry, a Midshipman in the Carysfort; and the author. Secretary to Rear-Admiral Beaumont, the Naval Commanderin- Chief, Australia, who had been an Assistant Clerk in the Tourmaline.

The Ophir and escort and the Squadron went into Port Melbourne the next day, and the Duke and Duchess had a great ovation on landing at St. Kilda Pier, and driving to Government House. The next day, the Duke held a levee at Government House, and close on 4,000 presentations were made. Numbers of addresses were presented and a most excellent and comprehensive reply was made by the Duke. The city was beautifully decorated and the nightly illuminations were the best I ever saw. A State concert, receptions at Government House, and functions of all kinds went on unceasingly, including a very fine review of troops at Flemington race-course. On the fourth day of the visit, the principal and most impressive

127

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

ceremony of all was the opening of the First Parliament of the Commonwealth in the huge Exhibition Building, in the presence of the Ministers, Senators and Members of Parliament, and over 10,000 people. The State Governors, Naval Commander-in-Chief, Judges, Foreign and Official Representatives from Canada and South Africa, had all been specially invited.

The Governor-General had experienced some sectarian difficulty in connection with the prayers at the opening and solved the matter by reading them himself. There is no State religion in Australia and each sect goes its own way.

The Duke read a most sympathetic congratulatory message from King Edward VII, which was received with tumults of applause and cheers —as was the Duke's opening speech. The “Old Hundredth” and the National Anthem sung by the many thousands present ended the ceremony. A really great day for the new Nation.

NOTES ON FEDERATION

Although in 1851, the Governor of New South Wales was appointed “Governor-General of all Her Majesty’s Australian Possessions”, the actual idea of a possible federation of the Colonies was looked on with indifference by most people for many years ; but in 1854 it was talked of, and the Sydney Morning Herald then pointed out that in spite of local differences the people were united by an essential community of

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

128

interest, and federation would be a great asset in regard to defence. It was not until 1867 that Sir Henry Parkes, at an Inter-colonial Conference on the Mail Service between Europe and Australia, gave his opinion that the Colonies should be united by some federal bond. There were many conferences, and in 1889, Sir Henry declared for Federation and insisted that the defence of the Continent should be the responsibility of an Australian Parliament. A convention met in 1891, consisting of delegates from the several Australian Parliaments and New Zealand, and the ground was cleared for another in 1897-8, when there were still fundamental issues to be settled.

One concerned the type of the federal system to be adopted, i.e., whether that of Canada, or the United States of America; and it was decided that neither should be slavishly followed, but principles from both, in harmony with Australian ideas and practices.

There were many other difficult questions to overcome, but eventually the Bill was passed through both Houses at Westminster, and secured the Royal assent of Her Majesty Queen Victoria on July 9, 1900 ; and on New Year’s Day, 1901, the six colonies were united into an “indissoluble Commonwealth under the Crown”. The first Governor-General, the Earl of Hopetoun, was sworn in at Sydney and the Commonwealth was inaugurated.

The Right Hon. Sir Edmund Barton was the First Prime Minister of Australia. (N.S.W.).

The Hon. Alfred Deakin, Victoria, Attorney General.

129

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

The Hon. Sir William Lyne, N.S.W., Minister for Home Affairs.

The Right Hon. Sir George Turner, Victoria, Treasurer.

The Right Hon. C. C. Kingston, S.A., Minister of Trade and Customs.

Sir I. G. Drake, Postmaster-General.

The Right Hon. Sir John Forrest, W.A., Minister of Defence.

The Hon. R. E. G. Connor, N.S.W., and Sir P. Fysh, Tasmania, Ministers without Portfolio.

The Duke and Duchess went to Brisbane overland, and the Ophir to Sydney, while the Flagship and three other ships went to Moreton Bay to be in Queensland waters during the Royal Visit to Brisbane. The Admiral and Staff were the guests of the Government there. There was a Royal Review at Lytton, with a levee and many functions on the few days ; and one morning some interesting boomerang and spear throwing by natives from the North was demonstrated.

The Duke and Duchess went by train from Brisbane to the Hawkesbury River, where they embarked on board the Ophir and after a day’s rest made their entry into Sydney Harbour followed by the Squadron. They had a wonderful reception on landing and Sydney was packed with people from all parts —Lord and Lady Hopetoun had moved to Government House, Sydney, and their Royal Highnesses drove there after a procession through the principal streets. There was a repetition of the Melbourne festivities before

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

130

the visit to New Zealand. We left Sydney before the Ophir, and had a very rough passage to Auckland.

No account of this period in Australia would be complete without mentioning the name of Captain Edward Wallington (now Sir Edward, Treasurer to the Queen), whose herculean labours before and during the Royal Visit had been crowned with such conspicuous success. He had served with many Governors in Australia and was esteemed by everyone who ever had dealings with him. There was never a more hardworking, tactful and discreet Private Secretary, always ready to lend a helping hand to others. So also was Lord Richard Nevill, who relieved him and who had been in Australia for some years with former Governors and at this time was with Lord Tennyson in South Australia.

At Auckland, the Governor, Lord Ranfurly, and Lady Ranfurly, were in residence at Government House. After a few days, their Royal Highnesses went to the Thermal district of Rotorua and saw the celebrated geysers and the wonders of the place. Here was a large gathering of Maoris, who were delighted to welcome the Royal Visitors. The outstanding individual in New Zealand was the Premier —Mr. Richard Seddon—known throughout the Dominion as “King Dick”, a man of great character and political achievement. He had been responsible for the despatch of many contingents to South Africa. The Boer War was still going on —and here, as at all places in Australia, the Duke presented war medals to many who had returned wounded or incapacitated. At Melbourne we saw the first Boer War medals —and

131

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

the colours of the ribbon were explained. Yellow had always dominated in African medal ribbons; the broad red lines indicated the large part taken by the Army and the thinner blue line the much smaller Naval participation in that war.

We went on to Wellington before the Ophir, and the Admiral and Staff were invited by wireless to dine with their Royal Highnesses, while the Ophir and the escort ships were at sea, some hours before arrival. None of the ships on the Station were fitted for wireless telegraphy and it was a great novelty for us. The smaller ships of our Squadron, the Archer, Pylades, Torch, Sparrow and Penguin, went on to Port Lyttelton from Auckland to be in readiness for the Ophir. The three larger cruisers. Wallaroo, Ringarooma and Mildura, left for Hobart, Tasmania, for the same purpose.

At Wellington, there was a crowded reception at Parliament House, and some amusing incidents —the Mayors of many country towns were presented, and one was missing. The Premier called for the Mayor of a Town, and he was pushed out of the crowd towards the dais, but before getting there he had an attack of nerves and bolted, amidst much amusement.

At Christchurch, the Duke held a Review at Hagley Park and there was a fine turn-out of troops, particularly of Mounted Rifles. Each troop carried a banner with the name of its district. When those from the “Gust” district passed, Mr. Sydney P. Hall, the well-known artist, attached to the Royal Suite, standing by me remarked : "Ah ! the Devil's Own !” His

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

132

Royal Highness held an investiture and presentation of medals in New Zealand, as in Australia, and held reviews of the troops at the principal places.

Hobart, Tasmania, was visited after New Zealand, and from there Adelaide, South Australia and Western Australia. Lord Tennyson (the son of Queen Victoria's favourite Poet Laureate) was Governor of South Australia, and the Hon. Sir Arthur Lawley in Western Australia. At Hobart, as no Governor had been appointed since the Commonwealth came into being, Lord Hopetoun was at Government House during the visit.

The Admiral, with the Royal Arthur, was in attendance at each place. On the way to Western Australia, the Ophir met a strong westerly gale and took shelter in Princess Royal Harbour, King George’s Sound, and the Duke and Duchess went by road to Perth from Albany. Here, as everywhere else, their Royal Highnesses had the most enthusiastic reception, and nothing could exceed the loyal welcome from all classes throughout Australasia, from arrival in May to the departure from Fremantle on July 27. It had been a privilege to all of us to visit every place during what had been a great Royal progress.

Chevalier de Martino —marine artist to the King—who was attached to the Royal Suite, took passage on board the Royal Arthur from Adelaide to Albany across the Great Australian Bight, and made some studies of the Ophir in the gale. Being light, she was very lively and tossed about like a cork in the heavy sea. He was unexcelled at depicting ships, and, having been originally an Italian Naval Officer, every detail

133

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

was always correct and he had the eye of a true artist. It was fascinating to see him at work —although, unfortunately, his fingers were crippled with rheumatism and holding a pencil was difficult. In drawing a ship he began at the trucks of her masts, and when he was satisfied that they were in correct position, the masts followed and then the hull and the result was a perfect picture of the ship.

At Fremantle, we attended a farewell lunch given by their Royal Highnesses on board the Ophir and took leave, before our departure in the Royal Arthur to escort her to sea.

During the visit to Perth, after a levee at Government House, one of the Equerries told me that the Admiral who was returning to the ship at Fremantle was required, as the Duke had received permission from the King to knight and invest him with the Order of a Knight Commander of St. Michael and St. George. His Royal Highness then informed him, and the ceremony took place in the ballroom. The honour was all the more appreciated as it was a complete surprise to him and to those of his command.

The Royal Arthur accompanied the Ophir about 300 miles to sea from Fremantle —the Royal escort ships having been sent ahead to meet her in the Indian Ocean. The Juno was waiting the next morning when the Admiral asked permission to part company. We saluted and turned towards Fremantle on July 27, after exchanging complimentary signals. The night before we had sent up large bouquets of rockets. This the Ophir said was a magnificent sight, but on board the Flagship it seemed as if everything was on

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

134

fire, and we all had to lie low and take any shelter we could in case of sticks falling on board.

It was somewhat dull returning to our station after the Royal visit of three months ; but there was satisfaction in feeling that everything had been successfully carried out, and we soon took up the ordinary routine of the command.

Before returning to the East, we visited Coolgardie and Kalgoorlie and went down the Golden Horseshoe Great Boulder Mine. After years of feverish activity, Coolgardie was almost deserted, and the centre of the gold district had moved on to Kalgoorlie. We called at Port Lincoln in South Australia, and Jervis Bay in New South Wales, for gunnery and various exercises, and then settled at Sydney for three months, after which there was a visit to Melbourne for the arrival of the new State Governor of Victoria, Sir George Clarke (afterwards Lord Sydenham). At Melbourne, the Admiral, Flag-Captain and Flag-Lieutenant and I, sat for a huge picture of the Opening of the First Federal Parliament, which was being painted by an Australian artist, Mr. Tom Roberts, for presentation to King Edward by the Commonwealth. It is now at St. James's Palace.

Christmas was spent at Hobart, Tasmania, a refreshing change after the heat of Sydney, and we spent some time at Norfolk Bay—carrying out gunnery and other exercises with the Squadron. A few miles off lies Port Arthur, the old Convict Settlement, full of gruesome memories so graphically described in the pages of “For the term of his natural life”, by Marcus Clarke. We were shown over the ruins by an

135

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

ex-convict, then eighty years of age, who had remained after serving a sentence of twenty-five years. It was not a place for a lengthy visit.

It blew hard most of the time we were in Norfolk Bay.

We went back to Port Lincoln, South Australia, from Hobart, and after a few days at Melbourne, sailed for Milford Sound on the West Coast of New Zealand —a marvellous place. The entrance is only about a quarter of a mile across, with towering peaks on each side ; huge waterfalls, one 500 feet high, and the grandeur of the scenery surpasses description. The Flagship and two ships of the Squadron steamed round the Sound and out —as there was no safe anchorage; and from there short stays were made at Akaroa Bay, Port Lyttelton, for Christchurch and Wellington.

From Christchurch, I went with Commander Laurence Power, our Navigating Officer, to see one of the largest sheep stations in New Zealand, Otekaite, not far from Oamaru. There were many thousands of sheep and a good stud of horses ; and one enjoyed a gallop over the beautiful downs, a delightful change after ship life. My host told me of the depredations of a native parrot, the Kea, which perches on the sheep’s back, holds fast with eagle-like claws, and picks through the skin with its powerful beak, eats the fat off the kidneys and leaves the poor animal to die. In Australia, the great enemy of sheep and lambs is the fox, originally imported for hunting in the South of Victoria. It has become a terrible pest, like the rabbit.

H.M.S. Warspite , Flagship, leaving Esquimalt, Vancouver Island, 1899

Sir Henry Parkes, five times Premier of New South Wales. One of the foremost Advocates of Australian Federation. Died 1896 ■ '3

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

138

The animal is now much larger than its English brother, and is found as far as the Queensland border. His method is to chase the lambs and younger flocks — to eat their tongues only, and they bleed to death.

At Wellington, Mr. Wilson Barrett —the celebrated actor —with Miss Lillah Macarthy (now Lady Keeble), were playing Quo Vadis, and we entertained the whole company on board the Royal Arthur one afternoon, and played against the men at cricket on the fine Wellington ground. The company produced quite a valiant eleven.

From Wellington, we crossed Cook Strait —between the North and South Islands —to Queen Charlotte Sound and Picton, much associated with Captain Cook. From here, in 1773, Captain Tobias Furneaux, an ancestor of my mother, whose maiden name was Furneaux, was sent by Cook to ascertain whether Van Diemen’s Land (Tasmania) was joined to New Holland (Australia). Cook then commanded the Resolution and Furneaux the Adventure. When Furneaux rejoined his Senior Officer in New Zealand waters again, he reported no Straits between New Holland and Van Diemen’s Land, but a deep bay. He had observed land almost continuously while proceeding to the north in foggy weather. Later this was found to be islands, which were named after him. He said he would have stood further to the north but the wind was blowing strong at S.S.E., and looked likely to draw to the E. which would have blown right on the land and therefore thought it more proper to leave the coast and steer for New Zealand.

H

139

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

Bass discovered the Strait which bears his name in 1798. He was a Naval Surgeon in the Reliance at Sydney, and a keen explorer, having examined the coast south of Sydney in a small boat quite of his own accord. Governor King of New South Wales allowed him a ship of twenty-six tons, commanded by Lieutenant Flinders, in 1798, and he not only sailed through the Straits, but circumnavigated Tasmania —thus first proved to be an island. It was of personal interest to me to pass the Furneaux group on two or three occasions—once in thick fog, and to realize how easily the error might occur.

While at Auckland, some of us visited Rotorua and the towns of Ohinemutu and Whakarewarewa, Maori settlements, and the marvellous geysers —hot lakes, Tarawera the volcano, a lake, and many wonderful sights. Staying at the hotel at Rotorua, was a Sydney friend for a week's trout fishing in the lake ; and the night before returning to Auckland he brought a magnificent trout of eleven pounds, landed that afternoon, to present to the Admiral.

From Sydney, I had my first holiday for over two years and a week's stay at a station in the middle of New South Wales —Lake Cowal —where my host was a well-known squatter, John Donkin. There was much riding and good shooting, the place abounded in snipe, and I learnt to drive a four-in-hand through gates without touching the posts, though my host and his daughter had some nervous moments.

Mr. Donkin's station extended for seventy square miles, and he had 45,000 sheep on it. He had been on the property for twenty-five years, and at first found

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

140

it swarming with tiger snakes and cobras from the swamps and the Bland River. The house and gardens were wired round, and yet they were often found inside —the milk in the dairy was a great attraction. One shearing time he offered the men sixpence a head for each snake killed, and he paid out £33 os. od. — I saw the counterfoil of the cheque in his book. After that massacre there were few left, but the rabbits kept everyone busy—and every kind of method was used to destroy them.

I had another visit to Lake Cowal Station before leaving Australia, and always found the country more interesting than the town.

In May, the first State Governor, Admiral Sir Harry Rawson, arrived and was sworn in at Sydney on landing. Lady Rawson and Miss Rawson and a younger son, Wyatt, accompanied him, and they went into residence at Cranbrook, Rose Bay, on the south side of the Harbour, about two miles out of Sydney. It had been a private house and was acquired by the New South Wales Government as the State Government House —the old Government House being retained for the use of the Governor-General when visiting Sydney.

Sir Harry brought with him Fleet-Paymaster W. H. Rowe, R.N., as Private Secretary, and Major Holman, R.M.L.1., as A.D.C., who was afterwards succeeded by Captain Leslie Wilson, R.M.L.1., D.S.O.*

In July, Lord Hopetoun resigned and returned to England. He was not in good health and there had

1 Later Chief Conservative Whip and, as Sir Leslie Wilson, Governor of Bombay.

n6

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

been acrimonious debates in the Federal Parliament in connection with his salary and expenses, since arrival. The general impression was that he had been treated badly, and the whole matter was to be deplored. The Admiral took the Flagship and some ships to Moreton Bay, Queensland, to do him final honour, and he embarked in the Canadian Pacific SS. Miowera for Vancouver. She was an old ship generally known as “ Weary Mary”. He dined with Sir Lewis on board the Royal Arthur on his last evening in Australia, and we illuminated when he left for his steamer. There was universal satisfaction on his promotion in the peerage to a Marquisate, for most people felt that he had not received proper treatment from the Parliament of a country for which he had worked so unsparingly.

We afterwards visited Norfolk Islands, where there were still descendants of some of the mutineers in the Bounty; then Earl Howe Island, and Fiji—where our hosts at Government House, Suva, were the Administrator and Acting High Commissioner for the Pacific, and Mrs. Allardyce. They gave us the opportunity of seeing many native ceremonies—notably the Fire Walkers of Bega (pronounced Benga) and repetitions of the Festivities which had taken place in honour of the Coronation of King Edward VII. We met many chiefs and descendants of King Cakobau. A grandson of the late King, Ratu Pope Seniloli, told me that his uncle, Ratu Beni, had a photograph of myself that I had given him in 1881. Ratu Pope was a fine cricketer and we had a great match against his team. They played in their skirts of grass and leaves, a cricket shirt and bare feet; and it was amusing to see the

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

142

grounds after the match, littered with grass and leaves which had been torn off and dropped during play.

The Allardyces put their servants in white linen kilts, and with their enormous masses of hair and fine physique the servants looked like bronze statues lined up as we went to dinner. One of them had been released from gaol and pardoned on the occasion of the Coronation Festivities. The Private Secretary told me that he belonged to an old priestly tribe who, in former days, took part in cannibalistic orgies, and this man had been pressed to officiate as a boy by older men. They were hanged and he was sentenced to imprisonment for life. We could not help thinking that when handing the potatoes, he might have ulterior wishes as regards the Governor’s guests. This was the last case of cannibalism known in the Fiji Islands, and the custom has long been thoroughly stamped out.

In September, 1902, Sir Lewis Beaumont was promoted to Vice-Admiral, and soon after his successor, Rear-Admiral Arthur D. Fanshawe, was appointed. Lord Tennyson, late Governor of Australia —now Acting Governor-General of the Commonwealth —and Lady Tennyson, were in residence at Old Government House, Sydney. Sir Harry Rawson offered me the appointment of Private Secretary in place of Rowe, who was seriously ill and not likely to be able to continue his work with the Governor; but as I had been away from England for so many years and wanted a rest, I did not feel inclined to remain in Australia after Sir Lewis had left; however, Sir Harry said I could return to England for leave and come out later.

:i8

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

We paid a farewell visit to South Australia in the Royal Arthur and lay off Glenelg, near Adelaide, calling at Melbourne and Jervis Bay on the return journey to Sydney. Madame Melba was at Melbourne and gave some concerts there and later at Sydney. She had not been to Australia for many years, and returned with a world-wide reputation. Her concerts were crowded and she had great ovations; later she formed an Opera company and sang in many of her old roles in which she had earned everlasting fame.

We gave a farewell ball in the large storehouses at Garden Island, and the Admiral had two large garden-parties, but there was much work before leaving the station ; there were ships to be finally inspected and the last weeks flew by. I managed to visit the Dangar family at their island in the Hawkesbury River, a beautiful spot; and also Camden Park, one of the old country houses and estates, owned by Mrs. Macarthur-Onslow. Here there was an enormous orchard with 400 acres of peach and apricot trees.

The revision of the Station Orders took much time, many had become obsolete and the old book was mostly a mass of corrections. The Confidential Standing Orders for War were also revised and distributed to the Squadron before leaving, so we were busy right up to the end.

A great figure, in more ways than one, as anyone who knew him will appreciate, in Australian public life, was the Right Honourable Sir George Reid — High Commissioner in London for the Commonwealth of Australia for five years, and afterwards Member

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

144

of Parliament for the constituency of St. George’s, Hanover Square, until his death in 1918. He had been Premier of New South Wales for five years before Federation and was Prime Minister of the Commonwealth in 1904.

Many stories are told of him —at a political meeting at Sydney, an irate speaker, worsted in an argument, told him to go to a certain warm place. He laughed, and replied : “Well the fat would be in the fire then.” He was an enormous man.

At another such meeting, a prominent female Socialist who heckled him had the tables turned on her in the good-natured inimitable way he had, for he never lost his temper. She was furious and abused him roundly, and as a parting shot shouted that if he were her husband she would give him a dose of poison. He calmly adjusted his eyeglass, looked down at her sitting in the front row, and replied : “And, Madam, if you were my wife, I would take it.” This finished her, and she left the gathering.

Vice-Admiral and Mrs. Fanshawe arrived early in January. My old friend, Dick Purefoy Fitzgerald (now Admiral Purefoy), came as Flag-Captain ; Paymaster C. M. Luckham, Secretary, and Arthur Bedford, Flag-Lieutenant ; and Sir Lewis and Lady Beaumont left Sydney for England by way of San Francisco on the SS. Sierra of the American Pacific Line.

Lady Beaumont was greatly missed at Sydney, where she had been responsible for the institution of a club for Women Workers, which proved a great

120

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

boon, and there was much other work of a philanthropic nature in which she took a keen interest.

The Flag-Lieutenant, Bernard Pratt-Barlow, returned by the Suez route. In the Great War, he was Commander of the Hawke —sunk by an enemy torpedo in the North Sea in October, 1914. A survivor reported that Pratt-Barlow had reached a small raft with many others. His last words were : “There are too many here, I will swim to another,” and before anyone could stop him, dropped into the sea and was not seen again. It was a fine act of unselfish devotion to his men.

Poor Rowe, the Governor’s Private Secretary, died after a long illness, and Sir Harry then suggested that I should return to Sydney in July, after three months' leave in England, and arranged for a temporary Private Secretary during my absence.

Captain T. P. Walker, late Flag-Captain, Midshipman T. S. Brodie, 1 and I embarked in the Canadian Pacific SS. Aorangi for Vancouver on January 25, 1903. We had intensely hot weather going north, touched at Suva, and saw my old friend, Ratu Pope, and the Governor's Private Secretary. Ratu Pope sent me a fine piece of Tappa—native cloth —then we had a day's outing at Honolulu, and disembarked at Victoria, 8.C., where I met many old friends, and then crossed to Vancouver City—on the C.P.R. — my first trip across Canada. It was very cold and the snow scenery magnificent going over the Selkirks and Rockies. Winnipeg was in thaw after very severe cold and not at all pleasant. In the train was Sir

1 Lieutenant-Commander in Submarine E. 15, lost in the Dardanelles, 1915.

The Earl of Hopetoun, First Governor-General of the Commonwealth of Australia, afterwards Marquess of Linlithgow, i 9Ol-2

120

Vice-Admiral Sir Lewis Beaumont, K.C.M.G., Commandcr-in-Chict, Australia, 1901-1903

I 21

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

148

Charles Tupper, the eminent Canadian statesman who had done much towards the extension of the Canadian Pacific Railway, and later was High Commissioner for Canada in England. We listened with the greatest interest to all he said of the Dominion in whose history he had taken such an important part.

A delightful few days at Toronto were spent with the Beardmore family—there was thrilling ice-boat sailing on Lake Ontario, then a day at Niagara and we walked across the ice bridge. Everything was frozen below the falls, and there was neutral iceterritory from Canada to the United States, past little grey huts, shops, whisky shanties, and photographers, and visited the huge power house on the American side, where enough electricity is generated to run numbers of large factories and to light the city of Buffalo, seventy miles off. Then came a busy day in New York, where we experienced the expensiveness of the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel—now eclipsed by newer hotels. Fortunately for our pockets we had only a short time there.

We crossed the Atlantic in the White Star SS. Celtic, and arrived in Liverpool on March 13, 1903 ; England again after four years was a great joy.

Three months —with my people in Cornwall, visits to London and many friends—passed very quickly ; and I embarked on board the Orient R.M.S. Orontes, one of the Company’s newest ships, from Marseilles on June 12 for Australia again. The French papers at Lyons in the early morning, on the way south,

149

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

gave news of the terrible assassination of the King and Quee'n of Serbia at Belgrade.

There were not many passengers on board, but I made friends with two sisters—the Misses Gardner - King, on their way to visit relations at Sydney. They were both good artists, and painted the most delightful little sketches of sea and land and sky. They were nieces of Lord Kelvin and aunts of the wife of Mr. Ramsay Macdonald.

I arrived at Sydney on July 17 —just six months after leaving there, and Lady Rawson welcomed me at the door of State Government House “to my new home”, as she said in her charming way.

The work of private secretary to a Governor was a new experience, and I took over at once from Captain Robertson Clark, 1 who had formerly been A.D.C. to Lord Beauchamp, the last Governor of New South Wales before federation.

While at Sydney, Sir Harry spent hours daily at Government Buildings in Macquarrie Street, at his office, interviewed Ministers, and went through an amazing quantity of documents requiring his signature. Every week hundreds of deeds, and renewals or transfers of leases of Crown lands, in duplicate, required the Governor’s signature. Some original leases went back many years and one of his predecessors had allowed the use of an India rubber signature stamp — and sometimes this appeared upside down. Every few weeks he and Lady Rawson went on tour in the country districts; on these occasions the Governor

1 Killed at Loos in the Great War, 1915.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

150

always wore his Naval uniform, in accordance with the express wishes of King Edward at an interview accorded in England after his appointment as Governor. He always wore the red riband of the Order of the Star of Zanzibar in uniform, and at a country Agricultural Show I was told of a little boy much impressed remarking to his mother that he supposed it was the first prize for Governors. These tours were of the greatest importance, and every corner of the large state was eventually visited. In this manner the Governor was able to get into touch with all classes and saw for himself the pastoral, agricultural, and industrial conditions everywhere.

My first country tour with the Governor was to Forbes, which had a great reputation for the number of patriotic mothers who had presented twins to their spouses and country —badly in need of population. There was one case in which twins were followed by triplets; and at a reception by the Governor, the three children were brought to be presented. A local story ran that the father, after the shock of seeing three arrivals, somewhat nervously asked the nurse if she was sure there were no more. It was a prosperous town and a great centre of agriculture, about 200 miles from Sydney. Sir Harry opened an Agricultural Show there, and at the luncheon we were struck by a speech made by the American Consul-General, Orlando Baker, who was a guest from Sydney. He had been in the West of the United States of America in the early days, and was much impressed with the more favourable conditions existing in Australia. One of his trenchant remarks was that in new country in

151

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

America—it was a case of “Root, hog, or die,” while here it was “Root, hog, or appeal to Government.”

The development of railways and much else in Australia had been carried out by the respective State Governments from the beginning. Certain Members of Parliament, who owed their seats to their being able to obtain Government Grants, were commonly known as “Roads and Bridges” members. No doubt in some states this system had been abused, as sometimes a branch line would be made for a district which never could pay for the outlay.

In Australia, railways followed the settlers ; in Canada it was the reverse, and there were cases in some States of Australia where settlers had struck on good ground and should have done well, but as they had no facilities of transport, their capital was spent before any railway came near. In Victoria, there was a network of railways and so many branch lines that the map looked like a spider’s web. Some could never hope to pay and an imported Commissioner 1 — who was originally a Canadian Pacific Railway official — by a ruthless reduction of the service on many branch lines, made the railways pay instead of running at a great annual loss.

At Dubbo, Sir Harry Rawson laid the foundation stone of a House for the Brotherhood of the Good Shepherd, a Society consisting of Clergy and Laity of the Church of England, formed for the purpose of ministering to the spiritual needs of the Dwellers in the Bush Districts of the Bathurst Diocese. The good work of the Brothers and Helpers cannot be over-

1 Sir Thomas Tail.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

152

estimated. They spend their time visiting small settlements and lone residents in the Bush, and are a blessing to the country. There was a similar Brotherhood in Queensland, and on country visits one constantly saw and heard much of the Brothers. They were a splendid lot and often had a very rough time travelling from place to place. There is an excellent book on the subject; “A Parson in the Australian Bush”, by the Rev. C. H. S. Matthews, who was Vice-Principal at Dubbo, and spent many years in Australia. We saw much of him and of the Principal, the Rev. F. N. Campion; both have livings now in England, after many years of good work in Australia.

The work of the Governor entailed an immense amount of travelling, for New South Wales is more than five times the size of England and Wales. During my first year, the Governor and Lady Rawson visited the Northern River Districts —Lower Hunter, Manning, Hastings, Macleay, Wilson, Nambucca, and Bellinger Rivers. This tour was by coach through rich country, with evidence of much dairy produce ; and almost every place had its butter factory. People turned out in crowds—every little village had its arch of tree ferns or flags, and there were more or less elaborate functions in the towns ; no one had seen a Governor in those parts before, and it was a great event for residents, everywhere gatherings of school-children were assembled, and a holiday was always asked for. In some places were a few aboriginals—a fast disappearing race. At one of them, “Bungay Billy”, looked on as their king, rushed at me through the

153

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

crowds as the Governor and party landed from a steamer in which we had come down one of the rivers, shook me warmly by the hand, and slapped me on the back—thus ending any stiffness or formality in the public reception. At the conclusion of the tour, we embarked at Trial Bay in the Government Yacht Victoria and returned in her to Sydney, about 230 miles south.

In the summer months, the Governor moved to his country residence. Hill View, at Moss Vale, and this was a delightful rest for all—with much riding and picnics in a beautiful country. The Governor went to Sydney each week for meetings of the Executive Council, and dispatch bags were received and sent daily—for work went on as usual.

In one of my country visits in 1904, I was made a present of a young kangaroo, and he became a great pet and followed me like a dog. Miss Rawson had a kiwi from New Zealand, and we kept them both in a wired-in place —it was most amusing to see them together. In February, “Plum” Warner’s Cricket Team arrived and we went to see a good match won by the visiting team before many thousands of spectators on the fine Sydney cricket ground.

The new Governor-General, Lord Northcote, arrived at Melbourne early in the year and he and Lady Northcote and the staff came to Sydney in May. He had been Governor of Bombay. In July, Sir Harry and Lady Rawson, Miss Rawson and Wyatt Rawson and staff went to Queensland. On arrival at Brisbane, Captain A. R. Harman, of the Rifle Brigade, A.D.C. to the Governor of Queensland;

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

154

Sir Herbert Chermside, who was in the country —met Sir Harry and was most helpful in regard to arrangements for the train journey to Rockhampton, where the party embarked in the N.S.W. Government Yacht Victoria for a cruise to the Torres Straits, calling at Townsville and through the beautiful Whitsunday Passage and inside the Great Barrier Reef.

At Thursday Island we saw some fine pearls and quantities of the pearl shell, which is the valuable commodity and recently was worth as much as £lOO a ton. But the market price then was much below that figure. On an average one pearl is found in every 500 shells. A visit was paid to the pearling fleet at work in Endeavour Strait, Cape York Peninsula. All the divers were Japanese using the Siebe and Gorman diving-dress—similar to that supplied to ships of the Royal Navy. We saw one go down for twenty minutes and come up with the light net-work basket round his neck, full of pearl oyster shells, which are quite large, an average size about nine by seven inches in diameter. A consignment of the black mother o’ pearl shell had been bought by Russia —to supply buttons for a new Army great-coat. The pearl merchants had once kept their supply in hand for a year on account of the sale in Paris of the pearls which had been the property of the late ex-Queen Isabella of Spain.

From the shores at Endeavour Strait, we brought off bundles of a beautiful orchid growing close to the beach to take to Sydney. On the way South we landed at low water on parts of the Barrier Reef, and walked amidst coral of all kinds, and the most

155

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

beautiful tiny fish of many colours and unimaginably grotesque shapes. Progress was difficult as the depth of water varied and thick boots were necessary, but it was a wonderful experience ; and every now and then a large fish would dart between one's legs, unable to account for strange intruders in its domain.

Cooktown and Cairns were touched at on the way south, and there was much to call to mind the work of Captain Cook in his voyages in the Endeavour. We visited sugar plantations and mills at Cairns and went by rail to Kuranda, to see the Barron Falls of nearly 700 feet, which were magnificent. There was a memorable luncheon given by the residents in the country under a large arbour made of tree-ferns—-but the pollen dropped, and everyone and everything was soon covered with a brown dust, forcing us to take refuge in the open. Our pleasant holiday was disturbed by a political crisis in New South Wales, and the Governor had to return to Sydney. It was the first time he had left the State.

Sir Harry Rawson once paid a visit to the Tumut district —the Land of Lyre Birds and Wombats, but we saw neither —and then came a short stay to Stalactite Caves at Yarrangobilly, which are justly celebrated for their size and beauty. From there we drove through the Monaro district in the south of New South Wales. Although it was October, snow lay on the mountains ; and at Kiandra —the highest town in Australia—s,ooo feet above sea level, it snowed on arrival. An arch had been made of snow-shoes and skis, with blocks of snow built up on either side. We drove twenty miles on to Adaminaby, and the Governor’s coach

The Opening of the First Commonwealth Parliament at Melbourne, 9 th May, 1901. by His Royal Highness the Duke of CornwStF and York

128

Vice-Admiral Sir Harry Rawson (Admiral Governor of New South Wales, 1902-1908

U9

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

158

was met seven miles out by a cavalcade of horsemen, buggies and bicyclists, and was escorted into the town. After dinner what was termed a "Social”, had been organized, and the party, which included Lady and Miss Rawson were expected —though it was not in the official programme —and although tired out with receptions during the long drive, the Governor's party attended. It was a concert finishing with a dance, but we did not stay for the latter. There was a most energetic organizer—the N.S.W. Member of Parliament for the district, who had once been an actor. He made a great speech after the concert, which included a recitation from Shakespeare, and we had difficulty in keeping awake. The speaker, however, electrified everyone by finishing dramatically with :

“God for Harry” (and he bowed to the Governor) "England and Saint George ”

The Governor and party then retired amid cheers.

Soon after this visit. Sir Harry Rawson told me that the Governor-General was prepared to offer me the post of private secretary, as it had only been held temporarily after the sudden death of Captain Leonard Arthur, C.M.G., of the Rifle Brigade, who had been appointed before Lord Northcote left England. The Governor said many pleasant things, and thought I should accept it as it was in every way a promotion. I was completely taken by surprise, and with feelings chastened by a very real regret at the idea of leaving the Governor and Lady Rawson —for they had been so charming in every way, and I had had such an

1

159

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

interesting time in my work with Sir Harry—l felt that the whole of Australia offered greater scope. It was arranged that I should take over my new duties in November, arrangements being made with the Admiralty for the transfer, after seeing Lord Northcote who, with Lady Northcote, had always been so pleasant to the Governor's staff.

Towards the end of October, the Governor, Lady Rawson and Miss Rawson, went to stay at Government House, Melbourne, taking me. There was a large gathering for the Melbourne Cup. There was also a Lord Mayor’s dinner and functions in honour of the King's birthday ; and on November 4 a review was held, and the presentation by the Governor-General of twenty King's Colours was made to eighteen Light Horse Regiments, which included Lancers and Mounted Rifles, Mounted Infantry, Royal Australian Artillery, and Australian Army Medical Corps from the six States. The colours had been conferred by King Edward VII, in recognition of services rendered during the South African Campaign, 1899-1902. The ceremony was unique, for never in history had so many colours been presented on one occasion; and the complete arrangements made by Major-General the late Sir Edward Hutton, Commanding the Military Forces of the Commonwealth, were most efficiently carried out. He was a master of organization, and although not always seeing eye to eye with politicians, had created in face of many difficulties an Australian Army out of the varied forces in each State. He was beloved by every soldier, who would have followed him anywhere. His work bore fruit in the Great War.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

160

On return to Sydney —my successor. Fleet Paymaster F. Harrison Smith, an old shipmate and friend, arrived from England, and I left to take up my new appointment with the Governor-General at Melbourne.

Cororooke House, Colac, in the rich Western District of Victoria, had been offered to Lord and Lady Northcote as a temporary residence by the owners, Mr. and Mrs. Everard Browne, and this was a very acceptable change from Melbourne.

It was a very hot summer. Disastrous Bush fires in New South Wales and Victoria caused immense damage and distress. Relief funds were started at Sydney and at Melbourne, as many families in the country had been burnt out. Hill View, Moss Vale, the summer residence of the Governor of New South Wales —which is on a hill —was particularly surrounded, and everything was ready for the family to abandon the house, but the fires were stamped out just in time — leaving the beautiful country round devastated.

Lord and Lady Northcote paid visits to towns and places in the Western district and we spent two days at Trawalla —a large station belonging to Admiral Walter B. Bridges, who had been most successful with his merino sheep, and Trawalla wool was celebrated. We spent a most enjoyable time with him and his family.

Wherever we were, bags of despatches came each day from the Official Secretary at Melbourne, but in spare time there was riding, lawn tennis and golf, and we saw many polo matches —there were some fine teams in the district. Captain Greville, the Senior A.D.C., was a good and experienced player and often

161

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

joined a team. Lord and Lady Northcote paid official visits to Warnambool and Geelong, and much hospitality was received from Western District families such as Chirnside, Manifold, Robertson, and others.

Then came the first visit to Tasmania. The party crossed from Melbourne to Launceston in the new Turbine Steamer Loongana.

The Governor, Sir Gerald Strickland, was there for the landing—but returned at once to Hobart, and we followed the next day, with Senator Deake, Federal Minister, in attendance, travelling by rail from north to south through the island.

After the usual functions at Government House, where the Governor and Lady Edeline Strickland received their Excellencies on arrival. Lord Northcote went by motor from Hobart to the west coast and north-west of the island and Mount Bischoff —with Briseis, a great tin mine—and then on to Queenstown to visit Mount Lyall, the gigantic copper mine—passing through gorgeous scenery on the King River en route.

During a week’s leave in Tasmania in later years with Captain J. McC. Griffin, A.D.C. to the Governor, when fishing on the bank of a lagoon in the centre of the island late one afternoon, after a dull time, with no sign of anything, I heard a flop, and thinking it might be a trout, cast my fly near the circle spreading in the water, when there appeared an extraordinary object, with a flat beak and small beady eyes swimming towards me, which sank almost immediately. It was a platypus (Ornithorhyncus Paradoxus), now getting very scarce. They are web-footed and covered with a beautiful

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

162

soft fur of dark brown colour with coarse outer hair as protection—the female lays eggs and suckles its young, has no nipples, but exudes milk through glands. When an egg is laid, the mother rolls herself into a ball like a hedgehog, forming a warm pouch, and it hatches in a short time. They are very shy, only appearing in the evening. The nests are burrowed out of the banks with an opening under water with a tiny breathing hole in the ground above —lined with leaves and kept perfectly dry. The fur is much prized and their nests are only discovered by prodding the banks with a stick. I had seen many specimens in museums, but never a live one before.

The Governor-General and Lady Northcote went into residence at Sydney after a short stay at Melbourne. Lady Rawson, whose health had given grave cause for anxiety, was ordered to England and left with Miss Rawson and Wyatt, the younger son, in March. Sir Harry followed in June on leave. It was hoped that Lady Rawson would have returned with him and that the sea voyage might have proved beneficial, but she gradually became weaker and passed peacefully away on board the Orient steamer Ormuz in the Red Sea soon after leaving Suez, an irreparable loss to Sir Harry and his family, and to the great sorrow of hosts of friends in Australia, for never had anyone so endeared herself to all classes for whom she worked so wholeheartedly since arriving in New South Wales.

The Governor-General took many tours in Victoria, New South Wales and visited Queensland, South Australia and Western Australia. In fact, during his tenure of office, he was never in Melbourne or

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

163

Sydney for more than a few weeks together—and during my time with him he travelled on an average over 10,000 miles each year, by rail, motor or steamer. His two predecessors were not long enough in the Commonwealth to make themselves really known except in the Capitals and large towns of the States. When he arrived, Federalism was still in its infancy, and in many parts a national feeling as apart from State interests scarcely existed. His policy from the first was to identify himself as Governor-General with the people in all parts —their interests and aspirations—just as Sir Harry Rawson had in New South Wales. Lord Northcote visited every mining centre and all the great pastoral and agricultural districts ; and, in Melbourne and Sydney, devoted some days each week in the inspection of factories of importance.

On one country visit to a small township, Lord Northcote was received at the railway station by the Mayor and Council and public bodies, and drove to the Town Hall. He went with the Mayor in a small Victoria, of which the coachman in a tall hat very much of the old stovepipe shape was a conspicuous figure. I was in the second conveyance with some of the town council, and remarked on the hat. My neighbour told me that there had been “a lot of trouble about that hat”. It was the only one in the place, the property of the undertaker —and when the visit was first heard of the coachman secured it for use on that day, and would not give it up to others, who thought by their status in the town they were more entitled to wear it.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

164

While staying at North Yanko in New South Wales, one of the stations of the late Sir Samuel MacCaughey, who was a most successful squatter, devoting much of his wealth to the vital problem of irrigation, I noticed in his office a map of Queensland and New South Wales with certain portions in each state coloured red, and enquired what this meant. He said that the red parts belonged to him and remarked that this property amounted to 12,000 square miles, some land of no great value, but he was able to save his best stock in drought time by moving it to places not suffering from want of rain, and that a relative from England, on first seeing the map, had pointed out that it represented a road from Australia to England a mile broad, which of course it did. Sir Samuel MacCaughey left immense legacies to the Universities of Sydney and Brisbane, and a large sum for the children of deceased or totally disabled soldiers of the Australian Forces.

The visits to Western Australia meant generally a rough voyage from Adelaide across the Great Australian Bight, before reaching the Cinderella State, so-called after the great discoveries of gold at Coolgardie first in the Kalgoorlie and the Murchison goldfields. On his visits to these, the Governor-General was accompanied by the Governor, Admiral Sir Frederick Bedford, who, with Lady Bedford, was most popular everywhere, and while going through some of the somewhat rough mining districts he was frequently hailed as “Boatswain Bill” by the crowd. At one somewhat convivial public entertainment the local Mayor, after the speech-making was over, called on His Excellency

165

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

the Governor for a song, a request which could not be acceded to and the party broke up. Paymaster-in-Chief C. E. Byron, R.N., was Private Secretary, Captain E. Powys Sketchley, R.M.L.1., A.D.C. to the Governor —killed in France early in the Great War.

Lord and Lady Jersey came on a visit to their old friends the Governor-General and Lady Northcote, in 1905, and had a most enthusiastic reception at Sydney. Lord Jersey had been a very popular Governor of New South Wales in pre-Commonwealth days.

In May, 1906, a Japanese Training Squadron, the Itsukushima Matsushima and Hashidate under the Command of Rear-Admiral Shimamura, who had been in command of the Second Fighting Detachment at the battle of Tsushima the year before, when the Russian Fleet, under Admiral Rodjestvensky, was destroyed by Admiral Togo.

1905

THE NAVAL BATTLE IN THE SEA OF JAPAN ‘

So great has been our naval victory in the battle fought in the Sea of Japan, that the whole of the Russian Fleet has been practically annihilated, and that Russia has at the suggestion of President Roosevelt, consented to discuss proposals of peace with this country. As the war is still in progress, we are not allowed to describe the series of tactical operations, carried out by Admiral Togo before the battle, but what is absolutely certain is that Admiral Rojestvensky was completely deceived by Togo’s strategy, and that he found himself suddenly obliged to run the gauntlet of the whole of the Japanese Fleet which was awaiting his arrival in the Channel of Tsushima.

1 From the "Russo-Japanese War” —published in magazine form by the Kingkodo Publishing Company, Tokio.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

166

The following are the reports received at various times from Admiral Togo, Commander-in-Chief of the Combined Fleet during and after the battle in the Sea of Japan, on May 27 and 28 :

I

( Received, May 27, Forenoon)

Having received the report that the enemy’s warships have been sighted, the Combined Fleet will immediately set out to attack and annihilate them. Weather is fine and clear, but the sea is high.

II

(Received, May 27, Night)

The Combined Fleet to-day met and gave battle to the enemy’s fleet in the vicinity of Okinoshima, and defeated the enemy, sinking at least four of their ships and inflicting serious damages on the rest. Our Fleet sustained only slight injuries. Our destroyers and torpedo boats delivered daring attacks upon the enemy after dark.

11l

(Received, May 29, Afternoon)

Since the 27th, the main force of our Combined Fleet has continued its pursuit of the enemy’s remnant vessels. Encountering on the 28th in the neighbourhood of Liancourt Rock a group of Russian ships consisting of the battleships Nicholas I and Orel, the coast defence ships Admiral Seniavin and General Admiral Apraxine and the cruiser Izumrud, we immediately attacked them. The Izumrud separated herself from the rest and fled. The other four warships, however, soon surrendered. Our fleet sustained no losses.

According to the prisoners, the Russian war-vessels sunk during the engagement on the 27th were the battleships Borodino and Alexander 111 and cruisers Zemtchug, and three other ships, some 2,000 Russians, including Rear-Admiral Nebogatoff, have been taken prisoner.

167

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

Supplementary Note

In addition to the enemy’s loss mentioned in the foregoing reports, the following losses of the enemy have been reported by commanding officers not under the direct command of the Com-mander-in-Chief, and from observation :

Admiral Nakhimoff (cruiser, 8,524 tons) . . Sunk

Dmitri Donskoi (cruiser, 6,200 tons) . . . Sunk

Vladimir Monomach (cruiser, 5,593 tons) Captured and Sunk

Svietlana (cruiser, 3,727 tons) .... Sunk

Admiral Oushakoff (armoured coast defence ship, 4,126 tons) ....... Sunk

Kamchatka (specially commissioned ship, 7,207 tons) Sunk

Irtish (specially commissioned ship, 7,507 tons) . Sunk

A large specially commissioned ship (name unknown)

Captured

Three destroyers ....... Sunk

One destroyer ...... Captured

The enemy's total losses thus far may be classified as follows :

Sunk Captured Total

Battleships .... 22 4

Armoured C. D. Ships . . 1 2 3

Cruisers .... 5 - 5

Specially Commissioned Vessels. 213

Destroyers .... 3 1 4

It is not yet ascertained whether the three warships reported sunk by the Russian prisoners are included in the above or not.

In addition to 2,000 prisoners captured by the main force of the Combined Fleet, there are more than 1,000 prisoners captured in other directions.

IV

{Received, May 30, Afternoon)

The naval engagement which took place from the afternoon of May 27 to May 28 inclusive, shall be styled the Naval Battle of the Sea of Japan.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

168

V

( Received, May 30, Afternoon)

The main body of the Combined Fleet, as already reported in a previous telegram, surrounded and bombarded the main force of the enemy's remaining fleet near Liancourt Rocks on the afternoon of May 28. The enemy having surrendered, we suspended our bombardment and were engaged in the disposal of these ships, when at about three o’clock we sighted to the south-west of us the Admiral Oushakoff steaming northward. I immediately ordered the Iwate and Yakumo to pursue her. They invited her to surrender, but the advice being refused, they attacked and sunk her a little past six o’clock. Over 300 of her crew were rescued.

At about five o’clock, the enemy’s ship Dmitri Donskoi was sighted to the north-west of us. The fourth fighting detachment and the second destroyer flotilla overtook her and fiercely attacked her until it was dark. But as she was still afloat, the destroyer flotilla attacked her during the night, but the result was unknown. The next morning, however, she was discovered by the second destroyer flotilla aground on the south-east coast of the Ullondo island. The above-mentioned flotilla, together with the Kasuga, are now engaged in the disposal of the disabled Russian ship.

Toward dusk on the 28th inst., destroyer Sazanami captured the enemy’s destroyer Biedovi at the south of Ullondo. On board her were found Vice-Admiral Rojestvensky, the Commander-in-Chief of the Russian Squadron, Rear-Admiral Enquist, their staff officers and others, numbering altogether over eighty. They had boarded the Biedovi after the Flagship Kniaz Southvaroff was sunk during the engagement on the 27th inst. They have all been taken prisoner. The two Admirals are severely wounded.

The Chitose, while going northward on the morning of the 28th inst., discovered a Russian destroyer and sank her.

I have also received the report from the Niitaka and Murakumo that they defeated a torpedo-boat destroyer of the enemy and caused her to beach in the neighbourhood of Chukpyon Bay (Ullondo) at about noon on the 28th inst.

Summing up the reports so far obtained and the statements of the prisoners of war, the Russian warships sunk in the engagements of the 27th and 28th, are the Kniaz Souvaroff, Alexander 111, Borodino, Dmitri Donskoi, Admiral Nakhimoff, Vladimir Monomach, Zemtchug, Admiral Oushakoff, an auxiliary cruiser, and two

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

169

destroyers. The ships captured are five, namely: the Nicholas I, Orel, Admiral Apraxine, Admiral Seniavin and Biedovi. According to the prisoners of war, the enemy’s batdeship Oslabya was sunk after sustaining severe damage between 3 and 4 p.m. on the 37th. They further say that the battleship Navarin was also sunk.

In addition to the above, the third fighting detachment reports that it observed the enemy’s cruiser Almaz disabled and about to sink at sunset on the 37th inst. But, as there still remains some doubt about it, her fate will be reported later on after further investigations, together with the result of the attacks delivered by our destroyers and torpedo-boats, about which no report has yet been received.

As for the damages sustained by the various ships of our Fleet, no detailed report has yet reached me ; but within the scope of my personal observation, none of our ships have received any serious damage, all of them being still engaged in operations. Nor has there been sufficient time to make investigations as to the extent of our casualties. But I may state that there have been more than 400 officers and men killed and wounded in the first fighting detachment alone.

H.I.H. Lieut.-Commander Prince Higashi-Fushimi is safe. Rear-Admiral Misu was, however, slightly wounded during the engagement of the 37th.

VI

( Received, May 30, Afternoon)

I consider that the report that the battleships Oslabya and Navarin were sunk is well-founded.

Supplementary Note

It has been definitely reported that the battleship Sissoi Veliky was sunk on the morning of the 38th inst. The total losses of the enemy may now be stated as follows ;

Sunk

Battleships :

Kniaz Somaroff ..... (13,516 tons)

Imperator Alexander 111 .... (13,51610n5)

Borodino (13,516 tons)

Oslabya (13,674 tons)

Sissoi Veliky ...... (10,400 tons

Navarin (10,306 tons

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

170

Cruisers :

Admiral Nakhimoff ..... (8,524 tons)

Dmitri Donskoi ..... (6,200 tons)

Vladimir Monomach ..... (5,593 tons)

Svietlana ...... (3,727 tons)

Zemtchug . . . . . . (3,103 tons)

Coast Defence Ship :

Admiral Oushakoff . . . . . (4,126 tons)

Specially Commissioned Vessels :

Kamtchatka ...... (7,207 tons)

Irtish ....... (7,507 tons)

Destroyers:

Three destroyers

Captured

Battleships ;

Orel ....... (13,516 tons)

Imperator Nicholai I . . . . . {9,594 tons)

Coast Defence Ships:

General Admiral Apraxine . . . (4,126 tons)

Admiral Seniavin ..... (4,960 tons)

Destroyers :

Biedovi . . . . . . . (350 tons)

Thus the enemy’s total losses may be classified as follows :

Sunk Captured Total

Battleships .... 6 2 8

Cruisers .... 5 - 5

Coast Defence Ships . . 1 2 3

Specially Commissioned Vessels. 2-2

Destroyers .... 3 1 4

Total numbers .17 5 22

Total tonnage

153,411 tons

In addition to the above, the cruiser Almaz (3,285 tons) is suspected of having been sunk.

The prisoners number more than 3,000, including Vice-Admiral Rojestvensky and Rear-Admiral Nebogatoff.

142

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

VII

(Received, May 30, Afternoon)

From the reports which have since poured in from the different squadrons and detachments under my command, it is now certain that the enemy's battleship Oslabya, having been seriously damaged in the early stage of the engagement on the 27th inst., left the fighting line and was the first to sink, which took place a little past three o’clock in the afternoon. As for the battleships Sissoi Veliki and the cruisers Admiral Nakhimoff and Vladimir Monomach, in addition to the hard beating they had received during the daytime, they were so severely damaged by torpedo-boat attacks during night, that they lost all power of fighting and navigation ; and while they were drifting about in the neighbourhood of Tsushima they were discovered the next morning by our converted cruisers Shiano Maru, Yawata Marti, Tainan Marti, Sado Marti, etc. When our ships were about to capture them, they all went to the bottom. Survivors from those Russian warships, about 915 in number, were rescued and cared for on board our ships and in private houses on the coast. It is also certain from the statement of the survivors from the battleship Navarin, that she sank as the result of four hits from our torpedo-boats after dusk on the 27th inst.

According to a report from the Commander of the Niitaka, the enemy’s cruiser Svietlana was discovered by the Niitaka and Otowa off Chukpyon Bay on the 28th inst., at about 9 a.m., and was sunk by our ships.

There are grounds for the suspicion that the Aurora and the Almaz were sunk by our torpedo-boats on the nights of the 27th inst. In a previous report, the Zemtchug was included among the ships that were sunk, but as there is room for doubt, I have to withdraw my report on this matter until the completion of more accurate investigations.

Putting together what I have reported in my previous telegrams and what I have thus far submitted in the present despatch, I may say that the eight battleships, three armoured cruisers and three armoured coast defence ships, which constituted the enemy’s main strength, have all been sunk or captured, and as for the second-class cruisers and other ships which served as the fleets’ hands and feet, they have also for the most part been destroyed. The enemy’s fleet has thus been practically annihilated by this one battle.

As for the losses sustained by us, I am in a position to state

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

172

that, according to later reports, no ships have been lost except the three torpedo-boats, numbers 34, 35 and 69, which were sunk by the enemy’s fire during the night attack of the 27th inst. The greater part of their crews were, however, picked up by their fellowboats. As for the damage received by the ships of and above the destroyer class, it is so unexpectedly slight, that none of those ships are unfit for future war-like uses.

With regard to the casualties among our officers and men, I expected from the outset that the list would be a long one. But as a matter of fact, later reports disclose the fact that the loss has been comparatively small. The present estimate falls below 800. The reports about the killed and wounded will be at once telegraphed as they come in, so that their families may be consoled with as little delay as possible.

In the present battle which was fought with almost the entire strength of fleet on both sides, not only was the field of operations extremely extensive, but the weather was very misty, so that even where there was no smoke of guns or coal the vision could not reach beyond five ri {I2I miles). It was impossible, even in the daytime, to keep the operations of all the squadrons under my command within the range of ray view. Moreover, the fighting continued for two days and nights, and the squadrons have pursued the scattered enemy in every direction, some of them being still engaged in various duties in connection with the completion of the battle. As for particulars of the actions of the entire forces, it will be some days before I may be able to forward detailed reports.

VIII

(Received, May 31, Night)

According to the report of the Commander of the cruiser Kasuga, which joined the Fleet this afternoon with the survivors from the Dmitri Donskoi on board, the latter ceased pumping operations on the morning of the 29th and sunk herself by opening her Kingston valves. Her crew landed on Ullondo island. They included the survivors from the enemy’s sunken warship Oslabya and destroyer Vidny. The Vidny took on board Vice-Admiral Rojestvensky, Commander-in-Chief of the Russian Fleet, and his staff from the enemy’s Flagship prior to the latter's sinking on the afternoon of the 27th. While engaged in the work of taking in these officers, the Vidny was struck by a shell from one of our warships. She

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

173

subsequently took in more than 200 survivors from the battleship Oslabya. As this rendered it difficult for her to continue her further voyage, she removed Vice-Admiral Rojestvensky and his staff to the destroyer Biedie and then fled northward. She met the Dmitri Donskoi on the morning of the 28th and removed all the members of her crew to the cruiser and then sunk herself. According to the statement of the survivors from the Oslabya, the vessel had her conning-tower struck by a shell at the beginning of the engagement of the 27th. The shell killed Admiral Folkersahm. In consequence of the severe and concentrated fire of our warships, the Oslabya finally sunk in the midst of her fellow-warships at a little past 3 p.m. on the same day. According to the survivors from the Dmitri Donskoi, two Russian destroyers were observed to sink while the engagement was raging at noon on the 27th. If the latter statement is correct, the number of the enemy’s destroyers so far reported as sunk has reached six.

IX

The detachment including the Yakumo and Iwate, which on May 30, having returned from the pursuit in the north, at once set out for the search to the south, has just returned (in the afternoon of June 1.) The detachment thoroughly searched the neighbourhood of Torishima and also the Shanghai route, but failed to discover any of the enemy’s vessels. According to the report of RearAdmiral Shimamura, Commander of the Second Squadron and on board the Iwate, the hostile warship Zemtchug was sunk almost immediately during the battle of the 27th, at 3.07 p.m. at a point 3,000 metres from the Iwate, by the fierce gun fire from the latter. At that time, the Zemtchug was on fire and enveloped in dense smoke, which prevented other ships in our fleet from witnessing her sinking. It was for this reason the event was lately reported as doubtful.

X

Of the enemy’s specially commissioned vessels, those which were sunk during the engagement of the 27th were the auxiliary cruiser Ural, transport Irtish, repairing ship Kamtchatka, and another vessel. The latter was one of the two tug-boats which were following the enemy’s squadron for the purpose of facilitating its coaling operations. The sinking of this vessel was reported by the prisoners.

At the Vice-Regal Summer Residence, Hill View, Moss Vale, New South Wales, 1905 Author H.E. Admiral Lady Rawson Sir Harry Pawson Captain Miss Rawson Leslie Wilson, R.M.L.I, A.D.C.

\Ej kind permission of Vidor I) Clarke , E sq. Freak pearl, the “Southern Cross” valued at £lO,OOO, exhibited at the British Empire Exhibition, London, 1924. Found in an oyster brought up by a diver in the Torres Straits.

MS

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

176

Of the enemy’s ships observed at the scene of the battle at its commencement, those whose whereabouts is yet unknown are the second-class cruisers Oleg and Aurora, the third-class cruisers Izumrud and Almaz, three specially commissioned vessels, two destroyers and one tug-boat. The rest have all been sunk or captured. Among these remnants, the Oleg and Aurora were within the range of fire from our third and fourth fighting detachments and were observed to be on fire several times. Though they may have escaped destruction, a number of days must elapse before they are able to recover their fighting power.

OUR CASUALTIES

The list of our casualties during the recent naval battle reported up to noon on June 1, is as follows :

Seriously Slightly

Vessels Killed Wounded Wounded Total

Mikasa .... 8 29 34 71

Shikishima .... 13 7 17 37

Asahi .... 10 7 22 39

Fuji 8 10 10 28

Azuma .... 10 7 22 39

Izumo .... 3 6 17 26

Asama .... 3 7 5 15

Tokiwa . ... 1 - 14 15

Iwate .... - 2 12 14

Yakumo .... 3 1 7 n

Nisshin .... 7 9 11 37

Kasuga .... 6 3 17 26

Naniwa . . . . 1 - 16 17

Chitose .... 2 1 3 6

Hashidate .... - 2 3 5

Matsushima. ... - - 1 1

Otowa .... 6 2 18 26

Tusuhima .... 4 - 15 jg

Niitaka . ... i i 2 4

Akashi .... 3 1 6 10

Suma .... - - j 5

Akitsushima ... - - 22

Izumi .... 3 1 6 10

Chiyoda .... - - 2 a

K

177

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

Seriously Slightly

Fesse/s Killed Wounded Wounded Total

Chihaya .... - - 4 4

Asagiri .... - 1 - 1

Usugumo .... - - 1 1

Akebono .... - - 4 4

Ikazuchi . ... 1 - - 1

Oboro .... 1 - 5 6

Shirarmi .... 4 1 8 13

Fubuki .... - - 1 1

Kasagi . . , . 1 3 5 g

First torpedo-flotilla . . 6 3 7 16

Tenth flotilla ... - - 1 1

Eleventh flotilla ... - - 1 1

Seventeenth flotilla . . 8 4 15 27

Eighteenth flotilla . . 2 7 6 15

The above may be classified as 113 killed, 424 wounded, the grand total being 537. It is stated that no casualties occurred on board the Itsukushima, Chinyen, the seventh fighting detachment, the gth, 15th, 16th, 19th and 20th torpedo-boat flotillas, Murakumo, Arare, Kumano Maru and Manshu Maru.

CASUALTIES TO OUR OFFICERS

The casualties to our officers during the great naval battle were as follows :

Killed : Commander K. Matsui and six others.

Seriously wounded : Commander S. Togo, Lieut.-Com-mander Y. Takahashi and thirteen others.

Slightly wounded : Vice-Admiral S. Misu, Commander T. Matsumura, Commander T. Shima, Commander Y.

Yamagata, Lieut.-Commander H. lida, Lieut.-Comraander Y. Ooyama, Lieut.-Commander K. Sugano, Lieut.-Commander Y.Tanaka, Lieut.-Commander M. Fukuda and twenty-one others.

On the day before their departure from Sydney, Admiral Shimamura gave a farewell party on board the three ships, which were brought alongside each other. The flower decorations were most beautiful —

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

178

one walked through a chrysanthemum garden into a cherry-blossomed place and the awnings had wreaths of flowers hanging, all most cleverly made of paper by the men. At one gangway were two dummy masked figures, dressed as a Japanese and British bluejacket respectively and at the foot of each was a board; painted on that below the British figure was the following :

“How weren't you pleased when you beat Baltic Fleet ?” And the reply on the Japanese board was : “Nothing more pleasure than that time I think.”

By a great stroke of luck I discovered that the day coincided with the anniversary of the battle of Tsushima, of which no notice had appeared in the Press ; so I was able to warn the Governor-General, feeling sure that there would be some speech-making—-and there was, for all the heads were invited into the Admiral’s cabin : the Governor-General, Governor, Naval Commander-in-Chief, Lord Mayor, Chief Justice and many others. Admiral Shimamura spoke of his great appreciation of the welcome he and the officers had received and how much they had enjoyed their visit to Sydney.

Lord Northcote replied, and offered warm congratulations on the first anniversary of the memorable battle and of Admiral Togo’s brilliant victory. One could see the evident pleasure of our hosts as we drank their healths, and one Japanese officer remarked: “This is General Stoessel's champagne we are drinking.”

It will be remembered that the former owner of the wine had been the General in Command of the Russian garrison at Port Arthur.

179

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

In June, 1907, Lord Northcote paid an official visit to the Northern Territory of Australia, which had not before seen a Governor-General of the Commonwealth. It was a huge piece of Australia of over 500,000 square miles, now divided into Northern and Central Australia—it was in pre-Federal times part of South Australia, extending from the middle south to the north of the Continent. His Excellency was accompanied by the Hon. Samuel Mauger, Post-master-General, Minister in attendance, Captain S. Byng Stephens, A.D.C., and the Private Secretary, myself.

We embarked in the China Navigation Company’s SS. Chang Sha at Sydney, and, after Brisbane, had an interesting passage inside the Great Barrier Reef, touching at ports on the Queensland coast en route to Thursday Island. The Master, Captain Eedy, a very capable and most amusing old salt, who had done many passages, was full of tales of his experiences. The ship had a Malay crew, with Chinese servants, and was most comfortable. At each port going north the Governor-General received deputations and addresses.

On arrival in Port Darwin harbour we found H.M.S. Pyramus (Commander Maurice S. Fitzmaurice, R.N.) detached from the Australian Squadron for service with the Governor-General by the Naval Commander-in-Chief, Vice-Admiral Sir Wilmot Fawkes. She supplied boats and men for river work and enabled the Governor-General to visit places otherwise difficult of access.

Palmerston, the capital of the north, a small scattered township with corrugated iron roofs, had

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

180

a few good houses on the tree-lined cliffs, a fine iron pier, and a Residency, where we were the guests of the Administrator, Judge C. E. Herbert —and this was our headquarters between expeditions into the interior.

Functions, including a levee, visits to Public Institutions and preparations for our trips, took up the first few days, but there was some delay owing to the temporary loss of Engineer-Commander E. S. Silk, R.N., of the Pyramus, who had formed one of a shooting-party and was missing at dusk. Search had been made in all directions for three days by buffalo hunters and black trackers, without success, but he was eventually discovered by a Chinaman and brought back to Palmerston, having existed on leaves and berries for clpse on a week. He had been given up as lost and was never expected to be found alive.

Most of the shops were kept by Chinamen. The Governor-General received the principal merchants, who appeared in gorgeous costumes, and a visit was paid to their Temple, or Joss House. Some years ago the place was almost devastated by a hurricane and the Chinese community decided that something was wrong with their principal Joss, who still smiled serenely in the Temple. After much deliberation the unworthy idol was taken from its seat, paraded round the town in a large procession, beaten with sticks at spots where the damage was most evident, and then taken to the end of the pier and cast into the sea.

A new Joss was imported from China and installed—and since then there has not been a like visitation.

Our first expedition, by rail and buggy, was to

181

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

Black Jungle, forty miles in the Bush, where a camp had been made for the party. En route, near Howard Road, we saw “brombies”—wild horses —and buffalo playgrounds, set apart by the elders for the baby buffaloes, and mud wallows ; some open plain country with long grass—then fine trees and innumerable pandanus palms. We shot a buffalo and had its tongue for dinner —excellent, and the remainder provided food for the natives from Adelaide River, and some Palmerston Blacks, who were camped near. Vultures appeared immediately and fell on what was left.

The many ant-hills were astonishing—some of the ordinary white ants —hills twenty feet high, coneshaped with huge buttresses which did not extend to the ground. But the most interesting were those of the Meridian or Magnetic ant, a blade-shaped structure fifteen to twenty feet high and about the same length, but of little thickness, the broadside parts invariably facing east and west, and the edge ends north and south. The mosquitoes at night were terrible —the large noiseless species, known as “up-enders” from their feeding position—and we were thankful to creep into our sleeping nets and to see them swarming black on the lee-side ; but they caught us when dressing and undressing in the open.

Here we met a fine old Scottish buffalo hunter, Laurie by name, and his blacks. He had been in the territory many years. The buffalo is of the species of the Indian Bheel, thought to have been introduced in by-gone years from the Dutch East Indies. There are huge herds at Melville Island to the north of Port Darwin, and like those in this district, quite wild.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

182

The hides were valued at about a pound apiece and the hunters were white men and natives, all good horsemen.

When a herd is sighted on the move, two or three ride alongside, and beasts are picked out at the ends of the herd. They use a small carbine gun, fired from the hip into the spine of the animal, which drops to the ground, is speedily despatched and stripped, and the hide salted and pegged out to dry, while the rest of the herd goes on. The horses are well-trained to their job and directly a shot is fired they swerve away at right angles—as the buffalo is formidable in attack.

From Black Jungle camp we drove to a small settlement —“Umpty Doo” —passing more buffaloes in the Bush; and here we took to horseback and our swags and bedding were stowed on pack-horses. We had to cross Litchfield Creek, full of thick reeds and waterlilies—the water at times over our knees. It was a slow process as the steed had to clear his front legs of reeds and then his hind legs, and we went through a rocking-horse motion. My horse “Dandy” did well, but my pack-horse with a native, rolled over just in front of me, and both disappeared for a time, but we got through without further mishap.

We stopped to lunch at Beatrice Hills, dried our things and after a rough ride through swamps sighted the Adelaide River and embarked in a small river steamer, the Federal. I spent an uncomfortable time with a damp mattress and pillow, and multitudes of mosquitoes found entry into my net through a big hole which was only visible in the morning!

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

183

It was a brilliant tropical night. As I lay on deck there was on one side of me the Southern Cross and on the other the Great Bear. On all sides there were many strange noises—the morning calls of the Mopawk and other birds —splashes of fish alongside and the larger flop of an alligator after something. In the early morning flocks of cockatoos, cranes, jabiru, ibis and parrots escorted us down the river ; and in the distance were seen herds of buffalo.

At the entrance of the Adelaide River, the Pyramus from Port Darwin was lying, with the signal flying that Engineer-Commander Silk had been found. This good news was an enormous relief to all. We embarked for Palmerston and were at the Residency that evening.

There was a party of Members of the Federal Parliament on a first visit to the Northern Territory, and among them tne first Labour Prime Minister, the Hon. J. C. Watson, a delightful personality and respected leader —he gave up politics a few years after and was a great loss to public life. One of the visiting members, hot and exhausted after a trying tramp in the tropical Bush during one of the expeditions, thought of taking a restful seat on a large log lying on the beach, but, to his consternation, as he approached, the log came to life and dashed down to the river. A large alligator had been enjoying a quiet bask in the sun and was as surprised as the would-be sitter.

On another occasion, we went by train to the terminus of the only railway, to Pine Creek, too miles south —saw some old gold-mine workings and a few white residents and natives. The Darwin River en

Lord Northcote, G.C.M.G., G.C.1.E., CM).. Governor-General of Australia. I9 0 4 - I9 oS

*52

Melbourne, r 4 th November, 1904. Presentation of King’s Colours granted by His Majesty King Edward VII to twenty Australian Regiments and Corps in recognition of Services rendered during the South African Campaign, 1599-1902, by Lord Northcote Governor-General n . ~ , a 1 • io- ~ Major-General Lord Northcote handing Colours to Brigadier-General Admiral Sir Harry Sir Edward Lieutenant-Colonel the Hon. Rupert r KT c , Rawson, Governor of Hutton Carington, Commanding 6th Australian Commanding New South New South Wales Commanding Horse. Major-General the Hon Sir Wales Military Forces Commonwealth Reginald Talbot, Governor of Victoria. Military Forces is on the Governor-General's left i

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

186

route was full of the most beautiful blue and white water-lilies—with a delicious scent.

At Adelaide River Station, we found a collection of blacks, among them an old woman of eighty with a blanket over her shoulder —the queen of a fast-dying-out tribe. She was introduced to Lord Northcote by the Administrator, who, it was explained, was the “Big-fella Gubnor”, and she seemed to be harbouring a serious grievance. Peering into his face, she said : “Gub'ment all gammon.” The trouble was that as Queen she was entitled to two blankets, but at a recent distribution the Police had only given her one. His Excellency was somewhat taken aback by this unfriendly attitude, but all trouble vanished at the promise of the additional blanket and the present of a stick of tobacco. Political difficulties are not always settled so easily. She was the most weirdlooking, shrivelled-up specimen of humanity, with eyes almost in the middle of her head, a few stray locks of grey hair blowing about and stork-like legs.

At most native gatherings the Police gave Government blankets, of a somewhat meagre type, and sticks of tobacco, to celebrate the Governor-General’s visit.

On another occasion we went to Anson Bay in the Pyramus and disembarked at the entrance of the Daly River, south-west of Port Darwin. It was interesting to see columns of smoke rising through the trees at spots on each side of the river as we approached—the native method of signalling to each other of the approach of strangers. Two small steam launches from Palmerston had been provided for us, and 3

187

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

cutter from the Pyramus with coal and supplies was towed. The main party embarked in the Federal, the small river steamer we had used on the Adelaide River, and we had to be transferred to a steam cutter about ten miles on, as the river was shallowing.

As the river-banks closed there was much of interest to see, the beautiful stretches of water, bird-life, and alligators here and there. When we entered, groups of natives appeared and two came off on a small canoe, going at a great pace in spite of a strong ebbing tide — it only drew about an inch of water. One of these volunteered as a pilot and took us clear of many shoals — the channel seemed to be shifting constantly.

We had some shooting, and soon collected a bag for the pot in the shape of burdekin duck and pigmy geese ; in one creek a good many birds fell on the mud and in shallow water —so without ado the pilot slipped overboard and retrieved them. A little while after, on re-passing the creek, we saw the head of a big alligator just where the man had been. The man displayed a huge grin with two rows of gleaming white teeth; he was a delightful fellow and full of fun. Soon afterwards he shouted: “Big fella alligator, all-a same buffalo” ; and on the bank about ten feet high, lying between the trunks of trees was a huge yellow monster. We stopped our engines, which were of rattle-trap order, and got rifles out, but the noise roused him and he dashed to the bank, flopped over with a heavy thud into the river and was missed.

We slept on board the Federal and next day went sixty miles up the Daly River in boats, being welcomed at the landing-places by natives from tribes camped

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

188

round who, we were told, sang the National Anthem — but it was not recognizable.

In the evening there were corroborees, or war dances, by three tribes. The site chosen was a clearing surrounded by huge pandanus palms and these were set alight and blazed furiously. Each tribe mustered and advanced, swinging shields and brandishing spears, and each had a different dance. It was a weird sight. The performers, elaborately got-up, some with faces painted white, some with clay on their heads and feathers stuck in; others had birds'-down stuck on their bodies in designs—and their ribs outlined, giving a skeleton-like appearance—some looked horrible.

The women, or “gins”, and children, sat well out of the way and kept up a monotonous tune —with much clapping of hands.

The third tribe to dance assembled and held back until an old woman appeared and headed them slowly. She stopped, stamped her feet and then came on, crooning a song all the time. One fancied some words were familiar in what she was singing and listened intently, for they seemed to be Latin. I called the attention of the Administrator and he agreed, and we were soon convinced that it was a garbled “Nunc Dimittis”. Judge Herbert told me that Jesuit Fathers once had a Mission on the river, abandoned long ago, and evidently the old woman must have been taught it as a child. This could be the only explanation. That a tribe of savages in a distant part of North Australia should be led on to their “war dance” inspired unwittingly by the “Song of Simeon”, which radiates peace and comfort, gave much food for thought. We

189

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

saw the ruins of the Mission buildings the next day; a few neglected roses were still blooming, and cotton plants, in what had been the priests' garden.

As an instance of infant precocity, the following may be of interest. At a native gathering with all the

“gins”—aboriginal women —sitting round, with their children, the white buckskin boots of Gerry Stephens, the A.D.C., proved an irresistible attraction to a baby boy still at his mother’s breasts. He left her and toddling over to where we stood insisted on touching the boots, then took a lighted cigarette out of Stephens’s hands, put it in his mouth and ran back to his mother, who seized and smoked it while the child resumed its meal.

Owing to important messages from the Prime Minister —Mr. Alfred Deakin —Lord Northcote was anxious to get south without delay, so embarked on board H.M.S. Pyramus and went on across the Gulf of Carpentaria and then south inside the Great Barrier Reef at night—it was moonlight and beacons and navigation marks were visible. At 8 a.m. next day, in bright sunshine, the officer of the watch, who had just relieved the deck, passed the wrong side of a beacon instead of keeping the course marked clearly on the chart, through some inexplicable temporary aberration —and the ship ran ashore on “C” reef, 150 miles to the north of Cooktown, and piled up on what fortunately proved to be decayed coral, but she stuck hard and fast with her bows well out of water. A few feet on her starboard bow was a pile of rocks which were just missed, otherwise her bottom would

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

190

have been torn out of her, as we were steaming at fifteen knots. The Captain and Navigating Officer had been on the bridge all night and had just gone below to dress.

Every effort to get the ship off failed —all weights were brought aft and an anchor laid out and the engines put at full speed astern, but she remained stuck, with a falling tide to add to the difficulties. The China Navigation Company’s SS. Tsinan, on her way south from Hong-Kong, was sighted soon after, and tried to tow the ship by the stern, without success, and when every available hawser had parted, Lord Northcote decided to transfer to the Tsinan and take passage in her. This had been the original intention before the pressing news came from Melbourne and I had the tickets for our passages south still safe in my despatch box. We left the Pyramus, now high and dry, with the likelihood of remaining until a high spring tide which was due in two days. The ship had little fresh provisions, so from Cairns Lord Northcote sent eight sheep, and a large quantity of bread, vegetables and fruit as a present to the officers and men.

Twenty odd telegrams were sent with news of the stranding, and future plans for the Governor-General’s programme were quite upset. We went straight to Sydney and heard on arrival that the Pyramus had been floated successfully two days after we left. On examination later in dock at Sydney, little damage was found beyond the buckling of plates on her bottom.

Before going to the Northern Territory, a second

191

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

visit was paid to Tasmania, and afterwards to various sites in New South Wales, which had been under consideration for the new Federal Capital—there had been many proposed and this one now visited, Dalgety, was afterwards rejected, and it was not for some years that decision fell upon Canberra. With Sir Harry Rawson, some time before, I had seen several, but there were many influences at work and as soon as one had been thought of, special claims were advanced for another. Queensland and Western and South Australia were again visited, and in December there was an immense exhibition of Women’s Work of every kind imaginable, opened after many months of work, by Lady Northcote, in the Great Exhibition building at Melbourne. In connection with the main Exhibition, there had previously been local Exhibitions in every State, and selections were sent to Melbourne eventually.

Lady Northcote was assisted by a very influential committee at Melbourne of business men and bankers, and had a Ladies’ Committee, as did each of the wives of the State Governors. Her Majesty Queen Alexandra was Patroness, and there was a London Ladies’ Committee, presided over by the Countess of Jersey. The opening ceremony was attended by the State Governors, with Miss Rawson representing the women of New South Wales —Lady Madden, those of Victoria —Lady Chelmsford, Queensland, Lady Le Hunte, South Australia, and Lady Edeline Strickland, Tasmania. Sir Reginald and Lady Talbot, of Victoria, were on a visit to England, as were Sir Frederick and Lady Bedford from Western Australia. A women's

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

192

choir of a thousand voices sang an ode written for the occasion. There were also an excellent string orchestra and a brass band composed entirely of women.

Open-air competitions—riding, shooting and physical culture displays, and programmes of events were carried out in the afternoons during the six weeks of the Exhibition. One gallery was set apart with displays of the work of many Royal Princesses, which included some excellent paintings ; and the Picture Gallery itself was an important feature. Unlike most undertakings of like nature, there was a profit of some thousands of pounds when the accounts were finally made up ; and a large sum was devoted to the furthering of Women’s Work and Institutions. No claim was made on any who had been guarantors of the undertaking.

The Hon. Alfred Deakin, Prime Minister, was Chairman of the General Committee, a very comprehensive body, including principal men representing the six States.

Mr. John Grice, 1 Chairman of the Executive Committee.

Dr. James Barrett, 2 Vice-Chairman

The Lord Mayor of Melbourne, Cr. Weedon, Mr. R. J. Larking, and several other influential men, who had much to do with the financial aspect of the vast undertaking.

The Managing Director was Mr. T. Heide, and the Treasurer, Mr. G. Morrice Williams.

1 Sir John Grice.

* Sir James Barrett.

193

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

There were many Ladies' Committees, and conspicuous among them were Mrs. Albert Miller, Mrs. Alexander Landale, Mrs. Franklin Petersen, Mrs. Ewart, Miss Higgins, Honorary General Secretary, and Miss Chomley, Assistant Honorary Secretary, and hosts of other workers in each section. It became international as well as Australian, and Committees were formed in London and Bombay, and the wives of our Ambassadors and Ministers all over the world gave much help. Shipping companies carried exhibits to Australia from all parts, free of freight—provided they were not for sale. A large amount was expended in valuable prizes, medals and diplomas for all sections, and Lady Northcote gave special prizes for the State Exhibitions.

As usual in November, there was a large party at Government House for the Melbourne Cup Week and this year the Cup Ball was one of the largest ever known. Among the hundreds of guests were Mesdames Melba and Clara Butt, who danced in the same set of Lancers.

We had many changes in the Governor-General’s Staff. Captain the Hon. Charles Greville of the 10th Hussars, who had been Military Secretary, went to England on leave and not long after his return his elder brother died, and he had finally to resign, for family reasons. Captain Balmain of the 15th Hussars who, with Captain Greville, had been on Lord Northcote’s Staff at Bombay, left to rejoin his regiment in India; and Captain Kerr Pearce and Captain Arthur Dorrien Smith, of the Rifle Brigade, also returned to England; so that for the last few months, which covered an exceptionally busy time, the staff was

(.) «*«* or Meridian An, Hi,. f,„„ E... Ad.Uid, r.lbc-nca. Black J..*. Q-XS/

i6o

[By tbt Author (b) Magnetic or Meridian Ant Hill from the North end. The same as (a)

■6l

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

196

reduced to three only—Captain Hubert Fyers, and Captain Gerard Byng Stephens, both of the Rifle Brigade, and myself.

Before leaving we were the honoured guests at a dinner given by some members of the Melbourne Club, over which the late Sir John Madden, LieutenantGovernor and Chief Justice of Victoria —then Acting Governor —presided.

Well endowed by his Irish ancestry, he was justly celebrated for his brilliant oratory, and the prospect of responding to what he might say gave us considerable apprehension, as although we had listened to hundreds of speeches, the Staff was a silent one and speaking was a new experience.

However, our efforts were rewarded, for during one of the speeches, a host shouted : “Stay out here and go into Parliament.”

Anyhow, the dinner was a great compliment to us and we felt it was also a happy reflection of the warm feeling existing towards Lord and Lady Northcote.

In 1908, Major-General Sir Reginald Talbot, Governor of Victoria, was succeeded by Sir Thomas Gibson Carmichael. Vice-Admiral Sir Wilmot Fawkes, who had succeeded Vice-Admiral Sir Arthur Fanshawe in 1905 as Naval Commander-in-Chief, was relieved by Vice-Admiral Sir Richard Poore, Bt., on appointment as Commander-in-Chief, Devonport.

Early in 1908, Lord Northcote was informed that he would be relieved in July. He had spent many strenuous years in the Commonwealth, after his period as Governor of Bombay, and had earned a rest. His work was unsparing and his absolute unselfishness had appealed to all. He was as well-known in the

L

197

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

country as in the cities and towns, and with Lady Northcote—of whom it is not possible to say too much as a Governor-General’s wife, for she was ideal—had succeeded in commanding the respect and affection of every class, and they were looked on as real friends of Australia. Like Sir Harry and Lady Rawson in New South Wales, they left fine examples to the Empire of self-sacrifice and unwavering devotion to duty and the welfare of the people.

During his last year in Australia, Lord Northcote went to the south-eastern or Alpine region of New South Wales after a visit to Sir Samuel McCaughey, at North Yanko—calling at Tumut —a district which had once been very much in favour for the site of the Federal Capital—then Yarrangobilly for the celebrated stalactite caves, Kiandra, Adaminaby and Jindabyne en route.

We rode across country from Charlotte Pass to the summit of Mount Kosciusko —the highest point in Australia—over 7,300 feet, and had a magnificent view of the surrounding country, and the Snowy mountains —passing a delightful lake named Cootapatamba, in a valley. A Member of Parliament told me that the word meant to the natives : “The place where the eagles drink.”

The scenery was wild and through very rough country; we rode round a narrow causeway on the side of a fine gorge looking down on Lake Albina ; our horses had been bred in the district and though not much to look at, were sure-footed fortunately, as the paths had many loose stones. It was blowing hard and bitterly cold. From the summit we could see the motor cars coming up the circular road recently con-

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

198

strutted by the Government. They brought lunch for our party which numbered some half-dozen, including a guide. We had stayed the night at a Government Hospice, five miles from the summit —well-built, with good heating—which was very necessary for some months of the year. Now the place has been largely developed by the New South Wales Government Tourist Bureau. There is tobogganning, skating and ski-ing in the winter and excellent trout-fishing in the summer, and every endeavour is made to attract visitors.

The Government pamphlet states that Mount Kosciusko is higher than the Rigi and Mount Pilatus in the Swiss Alps. Owing to the gradual rise of the land for miles round it certainly does not give this impression.

“The hoary top of Kosciusko is notable as being one of the oldest spots of land in this wide world,” says a famous geologist. “The European Alps are old; the Himalayas are old, but Kosciusko stood proudly above the sea when of the Alps and Himalayas not a stone was laid above stone.”

The Government Representative asked Lord Northcote if he would give his name to a mountain on a side of which we had ridden round, to which the GovernorGeneral assented with pleasure, and there was a little ceremony. The newly-named peak of the Australian Alps was christened Mount Northcote —and a smaller one nearby with huge rocks on the summit, giving the appearance of a sort of seat, was named Lady Northcote’s Chair, and both were marked on the Surveyor’s chart.

This little tour was full of interest and a great change. We went through Berridale the next day

199

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

where the Governor-General had a short reception and address, and at Cooma took train to Sydney. It was the first visit of a Governor-General to these parts.

Horse-racing is the national sport of Australia, for it is patronized by a large majority of the nation, from the highest to the humblest person, and by the most unlikely-looking people. I remember once hearing an old lady in a tram, whose appearance in a black mantle and old-fashioned bonnet with strings quite belied her, remarking that she had put half-a-crown on the favourite for the Melbourne Cup.

The first recorded race-meeting in Australia took place at Parramatta, near Sydney, in 1810, when MajorGeneral Macquarie was Governor, or as appointed “Captain-General and Governor-in-Chief”. Soon after that regular racing was started by the officers of the 73rd Regiment at Sydney.

Horses were first brought to Australia from the Cape in 1788 by Captain Arthur Philip, R.N., who was the first Governor, on his voyage from England, and with further importations and breeding, in the course of ten years there were over a thousand in the Colony.

Sir Thomas Brisbane, who succeeded Governor Macquarie, imported a number of pure-bred Arab stallions from India, and in 1819 the first racing club in Australia was formed, the forerunner of the Australian Jockey Club, the A.J.C., now the principal one in New South Wales, with a fine course at Randwick, Sydney.

In Victoria, being of more recent settlement than New South Wales, racing was naturally started much later, though Melbourne has now caught up with Sydney in that respect, and there is the important Victoria Racing Club, or V.R.C., with a magnificent

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

200

course at Flemington; and in the districts surrounding the city, as at Sydney, there are many smaller clubs. It was possible at either place to attend a horse or pony race-meeting on very nearly every weekday.

At Randwick and Flemington, the arrangements have been developed most elaborately, and Australia has certainly given a lead to the Old Country. There are like Clubs at Brisbane, Adelaide, Perth, and Hobart, and almost every country town has its race-course. The larger meetings at Sydney twice a year, and the Spring and Autumn Meetings at Caulfield and Flemington, including the Cup week, draw many thousands of visitors from all parts of the country and all hotels are full to capacity at these times.

The Governor-General and State Governors attend the large meetings in state, with a mounted escort, at Flemington, driving up the course to the grandstand. On these days the attendance is huge. It has been estimated that on Cup day over a hundred thousand spectators have been present at Flemington, and that everyone could see the races from start to finish —some without any expense.

Before the Federal capital was installed, the Governor-General had as his guests some of the Governors of the States and the Naval Commander-in-Chief and their respective wives for the Cup Week. In addition to the races, a regular event was a large Cup Ball at Government House, and many entertainments each night. Much the same routine was carried out at Sydney for the autumn gathering. There were dinners also to the Race Club Committees and their wives, generally numbering from sixty to seventy guests.

201

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

The following is an extract from a Melbourne daily paper advertising the Cup Week in 1907 :

THE AGE, FRIDAY. NOVEMBER 1, 1907.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

202

Mr. H. Byron-Moore, Secretary of the Victoria Racing Club, Flemington Course, was a most efficient, hardworking and popular secretary, and much of its development was due to him. Mr. T. S. Clibborn, Secretary of the Australian Jockey Club at Sydney, was another most capable man, and visitors from England have much cause to thank both for their courtesy and kindness. At Melbourne and Sydney, delightful rooms were specially built for the GovernorGeneral’s and Governors' parties, and lunch was provided by the respective Clubs for as many as were asked for each day. Nothing could exceed the generous hospitality of the Clubs' Committees.

Although the horse was not indigenous to Australia, there are in certain parts considerable numbers of wild horses —termed “brombies”. They flourish and breed generally in remote rocky districts, the product of mares and sires that have strayed from their owner’s paddocks and gone to unfrequented spots.

A paddock in Australia is very different in size to what is so termed in England—they are often thousands of acres in extent. The following story is well-known in a certain part of Australia, and concerns a Judge who was trying a case of horse-stealing. The accused person, when his time came to speak, vowed that he had not stolen the animals, and that they were brombies. The Judge said that he wished the man Bromby called to give evidence as he had not been mentioned before. This is all the more strange, as the Judge was Australian born, and belonged to a well-known family.

The initiation of wool-growing in Australia was due to Captain John Macarthur, of the New South Wales Corps, who, in 1797, obtained from the Cape

203

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

of Good Hope five ewes and three rams of the Merino breed. The character and quality of their fleeces were so excellent that, in 1803, when visiting England, the Secretary of State gave him authority to obtain a grant of 10,000 acres of land in the Colony. This grant was reduced by Governor King to one of 5,000 acres, with no restriction as to the locality.

Macarthur, in consequence, picked an estate in the valley of the Nepean, which surrounds the present town of Camden. The honour of being the founder of this great industry is, therefore, due to him ; and he arranged for a vessel to make one trip from Sydney every eighteen months to take his wool to England.

The property passed to a Miss Macarthur, a direct descendant. She married a Captain Onslow, who had been in the Royal Navy, and as Mrs. Macarthur Onslow of Camden Park —with a delightful mansion built on the basis of an English country house —entertained largely and many visitors can look back on her gracious hospitality.

Among the visitors from England, entertained at Government House, were Mr. Keir Hardie, M.P., who came from India and China —he was not well received by the Australian Trade Unions on account of certain speeches made since leaving England. He left in high dudgeon after a very short stay at Melbourne. On another occasion, Mr. Ramsay Macdonald, M.P., and his wife, lunched at Government House on their way to Sydney from England to visit relatives. Another M.P. who visited the country of his youthful years, was Sir John Henniker-Heaton, the great postal-reformer to whom the British Empire will be always indebted. Another was General William Booth, the founder of

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

204

the Salvation Army—on his last visit to Australia. He was then towards his eightieth year, and looked like one of the patriarchs of old with his flowing white beard and imposing stature, large aquiline nose, and piercing eyes.

Among the important Acts of Parliament passed during Lord Northcote’s tenure of office as GovernorGeneral, were the Defence Act and the Tariff Act. Before leaving finally, there were some short tours in Victoria —to the Western District, and a second visit to Trawalla, near Beaufort and Ballarat, the station owned by Admiral Bridges, and a final visit to South Australia. Lord Northcote embarked in the Ruby steamer on the Murray River at Mildura, the great orange-growing district of Victoria, a remarkable result of what was possible by systematic irrigation, which had created a large oasis in country that had been practically useless before.

Below the town of Wentworth, we came to the junction of the Darling River from New South Wales. The river steamers are necessarily of little draught—wood burning, a large stern wheel, cabins on a light upper deck—and it was very peaceful going down the river with huge eucalyptus trees on each side, prosperous settlements every few miles, and at times high cliffs. At Renmark—a German settlement town where little English was spoken—we were joined by Sir George le Hunte, the Governor of South Australia, and went on through that State, passing Mannum, Murray Bridge, Port McLean, Goolwa to Port Victoria and the Murray River mouth —500 miles from where we had embarked.

At Bowhill we came across the Etona, the Murray

17°

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

River Mission Boat, maintained by Eton College and in charge of the Revd. H. F. Severn, who told us of his work.

There were gatherings of residents at stoppingplaces, and on the banks the usual addresses of welcome and little receptions as the visit of a GovernorGeneral was a novelty, and for the visitors it was a most interesting experience, for one had scarcely realized what a fine water-way the Murray River was—nor its immense value to the country. We motored to Adelaide and the next day went by rail to Oodnadatta, the terminus of the railway to the north of the State, passing Lake Eyre—the great salt lake. Here, as at Burke, New South Wales, we saw camel caravans in charge of Afghans leaving for the interior, almost desert land for many miles.

From Adelaide we returned to Melbourne and Sydney. There was a remarkable demonstration on Lord and Lady Northcote's final departure from Melbourne after a series of farewell entertainments, among which was a garden party given by them at Government House to close on 2,000 guests ; and on the last Sunday afternoon, a gathering in the grounds of over 4,000 women, mostly workers, who had asked if they might have an opportunity of saying good-bye to Lady Northcote, and to thank her for what she had done for women, was most impressive.

On leaving Government House for the last time, ladies on horseback belonging to Hunt Clubs lined the drive to the gates, and from there to the station the streets were packed. The escort had much difficulty in getting through and progress was at a snail’s pace. The Lord Mayor and Council were on the steps of the

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

206

Town Hall to say farewell ; and at the station, in addition to guards of honour and official farewell, the Women's Exhibition Choir had assembled en masse, and sang as the train steamed out.

The last weeks at Sydney were full of work preparing for the new Governor-General, the Earl of Dudley, who was to arrive shortly; and in the last fortnight the United States Atlantic Fleet of sixteen battleships arrived in Sydney from New Zealand on August 30, under the command of Rear-Admiral C. S. Sperry.

The battleships were the Connecticut (Flagship), Kansas, Minnesota, Vermont, Georgia, Nebraska, New Jersey, Rhode Island, Louisiana, Virginia, Missouri, Ohio, Wisconsin, Illinois, Kearsage and Kentucky. RearAdmiral Richard Wainwright (who had commanded the Maine, blown up at Cuba before the war with Spain), W. H. Emery, and Seaton Schroeder —commanding the Second, Third, and Fourth Divisions.

There were also as auxiliaries, two supply ships, a repair ship, hospital ship, collier and a yacht, des-patch-boat, the Yankton. A thoroughly well-organized Fleet in being—minus cruisers. Its entry into Sydney Harbour was most imposing and many thousands of spectators lined the shores.

Admiral Sperry and the three Admirals, with their Flag-Lieutenants, l stayed at Government House as the Governor-General’s guests —and there was a week of entertainment and functions, commencing with a dinner of seventy at Government House on the night of arrival.

The Fleet was illuminated, and from the gardens

1 D. W. Wurtsbaugh, S. C. Rowen, R. W. Henderson, and T. T. Craven.

i?2

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

the harbour looked like a fairy-land. Sydney itself was most elaborately decorated and illuminated each night. There was a march through the city of U.S. bluejackets, who were smartly turned out and had a great reception. The Fleet landed 4,000 liberty men each day, and although there had been a certain amount of apprehension on the part of the police officials, there was not a single case of disturbance during the visit. There had been rumours of trouble at Auckland, but there certainly was none in Australia.

Lord and Lady Northcote gave a large Ball, and it was necessary to build a temporary ball and reception room in the grounds. There were entertainments at the State Government House and Admiralty House, and a great reception at the Town Hall. Officers and men were enthusiastic in their appreciation of their first visit to Australia.

Admiral Sperry was a most cultured and delightful man —his speeches on all occasions were admirable, discreet, tactful and humorous. Once he spoke of the union of hands across the sea “then why not of hearts”— it was felt that he certainly won those of his listeners. In addition to being a fine sailor, he was a real ambassador, and it was my privilege and good fortune to see much of him. There was real regret at the news of his death not very long after the Fleet returned to the United States.

Rear-Admiral Sir Richard Poore, Bt., was the then Naval Commander-in-Chief, and with Lady Poore entertained much at Admiralty House. She was an authoress of considerable merit.'

1 "Recollections of an Admiral’s Wife”, by Lady Poore, and other publications.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

208

The Fleet went to Melbourne and other ports after Sydney, and the visit made a very great impression in Australia.

The last few days at Sydney were very full, but everything was ready for Lord Dudley, the new Governor-General, who arrived on September 8, 1908. I turned over to his private secretary, Mr. Walter Callan, that day and, with Lord and Lady Northcote, left for Brisbane by rail. There were gatherings at the stations stopped at and many farewell addresses. I had written replies to over 200 in my time in Australia, and felt that I had absorbed everything connected with most States, districts and towns. We stayed with Lord and Lady Chelmsford at Government House, Brisbane, for two nights and embarked on board the Nippon Yusen Kaisha, SS. Kumano Mara at Pinkenba, some way down the river. Captain R. Verney, of the Rifle Brigade, the A.D.C., saw us safely on board. He was afterwards Military Secretary to Lord Chelmsford, Viceroy in India, and is now Sir Ralph Verney, Secretary to the Speaker of the House of Commons. It was restful on board after the rush of the last few months, and I felt as if I could sleep for a week. Lord Northcote’s aides-de-camp, Major Hubert Fyers and Captain Gerard Byng Stephens, of the Rifle Brigade, had left for England via the Suez Canal from Melbourne.

At Townsville, where we stopped, there was what was actually the last farewell address from the Mayor and President of the Shire. We anchored each night inside the Great Barrier Reef and on the fourth day out passed the “C” reef, where the Pyramus was left last year on our way south. In the Torres Straits we passed through some thousands of “bee-eaters”—

209

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

small birds of brilliant plumage migrating to Australia from China, to warmer climes ; Australia disappeared, and we were soon in the Molucca Sea and passed Celebes, the spider-like island on the map.

The next day there was a most confused sea and swell and we steamed through miles of debris —huge logs, matting, cocoanut trees, and every sign of there having been very bad weather somewhere. On arrival at Manila we heard that a typhoon had passed some miles ahead of our course. Here we found Admiral Sperry’s despatch boat, the Yankton, sent on to await his arrival from Western Australia with some of the U.S. Squadron, the rest had gone on to the Mediterranean.

Commander McVey came on board and said that the Yankton was at Lady Northcote’s disposal by order of the Commander-in-Chief. This was quite an unexpected courtesy, for we had no idea of meeting the ship, but there was no opportunity of accepting the kind attention as our steamer only stayed one night at Manila. We lunched at the Malacanan Palace, the residence of the U.S. Governor-General Smith—a fine Spanish house, with magnificent rooms and interesting old paintings of Spanish Kings, and former Spanish Governors-General. Then came a visit to the very ancient observatory—still in charge of Spanish Jesuit Priests, some of great age, and one showed on a blackboard the course of the typhoon which had recently passed ahead of our steamer —the circles of the storm had gone towards the China coast and disappeared.

At Hong-Kong we stayed two days at Mountain

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

210

Lodge, Victoria Peak, with the Governor, Sir Frederick Lugard (now Lord Lugard)—Lady Lugard was in England. The damp heat there in late September was most trying, and the Staff told me that boots get mildewed in twenty-four hours, with a growth of white moss on them.

At Sir Paul Chater’s house we saw some priceless ancient china porcelain and other treasures —supposed to be a finer and more complete collection even than Mr. Pierpoint Morgan’s, which I afterwards had the opportunity of visiting in New York.

On arrival in Japanese waters, we touched at Nagasaki and went through the Inland Sea to Kobe, passing Simonoseki early, and at Kobe left the Kumano Mam . Everything on board had been most comfortable, and the ship was well run by the Japanese officers and crew. The only Europeans on board were the Captain and Chief Engineer—the former English, and the latter Scotch —as usual.

There was a short stay at Osaka —with its ancient castle and moat —a town of a million inhabitants, with factories of all kinds, the “Manchester” of Japan. From thence we journeyed to Kyoto, where we saw the many beautiful temples, and one day was spent at Nara. With Lord Northcote, I went down the Hodzu Rapids, a most exciting experience, for as one shoots over them and the boat looks as if it would be smashed on the rocks, the two bowmen fend it off with poles just in time and it dashes on. At Nara there was the giant Daibitszu —an enormous golden Buddha—and its specially built temple; and the beautiful park with sacred deer where we happened on the day when the ceremony of cutting their horns took place.

211

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

We saw the Imperial and Summer Palaces and many beautiful temples at Kyoto, and a jujitsu school of wrestling and fencing—before going on by train to Yokohama. At Yokohama, Admiral Shimamura, who was in Australia the year before, called on Lady Northcote ; and Lord Northcote was invited on board the battleship Katora by Admiral Baron Ijuin the Com-mander-in-Chief of the Japanese Fleet, which included two captured Russian ships, assembled at Yokohama to receive the United States Fleet. We went to Kamakura for one day and saw the large bronze Daibudzu, and Enoshima —then to Nikko direct.

After seeing the gorgeous Temple of lyeyasu with wonderful carvings of brass-work and enamel, and many others, we went in rickshaws through most beautiful scenery to Chuzenzi on the lake of that name, with an imposing mountain opposite our hotel. Nikko is really the shrine of old Japan, and the Cryptomeria avenue many miles long, is of historic interest. It was planted centuries ago by one of the Daimyos before the funeral of lyeyasu, and in his honour — the Prince had said he could not afford to spend money on shrines, but that if he had trees planted on each side of the routes taken by the funeral procession, they would be an everlasting monument to his memory, which they certainly are. These trees are simply magnificent, the finest in the world. The grove was originally thirty miles long, but now in parts villages have arisen on each side. The charm of Nikko and its scenery, and in October the wealth of colour are beyond description ; everywhere the glorious red of the maples and turning beeches surpassed anything to be imagined.

Lord and Lady Northcote had hoped for a restful

[By the Author White Ant Hill, 15 feet high, near Pine Creek, Northern Territory, 1907

I ?6

Tour in Northern Territory, leaving Umpty Doo Camp for Crossing of Litchfield Creek to Beatrice Hills and Adelaide River, 1907

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

214

time in this beautiful spot, but the Ambassador at Tokio, Sir Claude Macdonald, was most anxious that they should go to the Embassy. It was known that an ex-Governor-General of Australia was in the country, and it was thought politic, although he was travelling privately and held no official position, that he should be at the various forthcoming functions at Tokio— State and otherwise —which were being arranged for our old friends in the United States Fleet. So we left this delightful part and went to stay with the Ambassador until the departure of the C.P.R. steamer for Canada. Sir Claude was kindness itself, and we had a very interesting few days at the Embassy. After dinner on our night of arrival, I went with the Ambassador to the Prime Minister’s (Marquis Katsura) Ball and again met Admiral Sperry, who was the guest of the evening ; and was introduced to Admiral Togo. Admiral Togo had served in the British Navy as a young Naval officer with Sir Harry Rawson many years back, and before leaving New South Wales Sir Harry had entrusted me with a message which I delivered, to the effect that he hoped to be in Japan on his way to England in a few months, and looked forward to meeting his old shipmate again. Admiral Togo was much pleased and said he would write to Sir Harry.

The British Ambassador gave a garden-party for the United States Fleet. Prince Ito —the great man of Japan, then Governor-General of Korea—afterwards assassinated—was present. He had worked in English ship-building yards as a young man (like the Tsar Peter), and with the Emperor was responsible for the modernization of the Japanese Army and Navy,

M

215

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

thirty years before, and the building and armament of the Fleet.

The next day, the Emperor Mutsu Hito, and the Empress, received Lord and Lady Northcote at the Imperial Palace. The audiences were unexpected and, fortunately, Lord Northcote and I had our Full Dress handy. Everything at the Palace was beautifully organized. The Emperor and Empress spoke in French and His Majesty wore the Order of the Garter.

We were entertained at a Japanese dinner given by Mr. Payne and his wife at the Maple Leaf Club —with Geisha dancing, and wonderful conjuring tricks between the courses. Mr. Payne was the agent in Japan for the Canadian Pacific Company, and knew of Lord and Lady Northcote's arrival from Lord Mount Stephen.

Baron Komura, the Minister for Foreign Affairs, gave a luncheon at the Imperial Summer House, and Baron Saito, the Minister of Marine, another at the Admiralty.

Admiral Sperry’s yacht, the Yankton, had arrived from Manila, and Lieut.-Commander McVey met us at Yokohama and took us on board the C.P.R. Royal Mail Steamer Emperor of India in his steam launch, when we left for Victoria, British Columbia, on October 26. The sacred mountain Fujiyama was enveloped in a cloud all day, and we missed seeing it as we steamed away.

That the visit of the United States ships should have coincided with that of Lord and Lady Northcote was unforeseen when we left Australia, but it was pleasant to meet many old acquaintances again, and very interesting to see the reception the Fleet had at Yokohama and Tokio. The public decorations were

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

216

beautiful and elaborate in the Japanese style; and officers and men were welcomed by enthusiastic and excited crowds when they attended the many entertainments arranged in their honour.

It had been a great pleasure to meet Sir Claud Macdonald, and each night I sat up late listening to all he had to tell of his experiences in Japan and, before that, in Peking. He was a great Ambassador, he had won the full confidence of Japanese Officialdom, and he was trusted implicitly.

Crossing the North Pacific was tedious. We had cold and dismal weather —spent two 3ists of October, one a dies non —and went through a stormy time, with falling barometer as we neared Canada. It was a relief to disembark at Victoria —back to scenes familiar to me —but we only stayed a short time. Lord Northcote and I dined with the Lieut.-Governor of British Columbia and Mrs. James Dunsmuir —my old friends—in the new Government House, commanding a really gorgeous view of the Olympian Mountains across the Juan de Fuca Chats, in Washington territory.

At Vancouver, Mr. J. J. Hill, the American railway magnate and friend of Lord Mount Stephen, had come from St. Paul to welcome Lord and Lady Northcote. He was a very old friend, too, of both Lord and Lady Northcote, and had come in his private railway car from St, Paul, Minneapolis, which he offered to them, but the C.P.R. authorities had placed the private railway car, which had been Lord Mount Stephen’s in previous days, at Lord Northcote’s disposal.

From Winnipeg we went to St. Paul, Minneapolis,

217

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

to stay with Mr. and Mrs. J. J. Hill, and then on through Sault St. Marie to Montreal. Lord and Lady Northcote stayed a few days in New York and Washington and we crossed from New York in the White Star SS. Arabic, arriving in Liverpool just before Christmas. The Countess of Jersey, and Captain Greville, late Military Secretary, were at Liverpool on our arrival and travelled to London with Lord and Lady Northcote ; and at Euston station, Lord Northcote's mother, the Dowager Countess of Iddlesleigh, then of considerable age, came and remained in her brougham, and was waiting, with many others, including the two late aides-de-camp in Australia, Captains Stephens and Fyers.

After a short stay in London, I went to spend Christmas in Cornwall with my people—delighted to be in England again ; and in the following January attended a dinner given by the Royal Colonial Institution in honour of my old Chief, presided over by the Earl of Crewe, Secretary of State for the Colonies, when the late Governor-General made an excellent speech on his Australian work and experiences. Alas ! it was not destined that the vast knowledge of the people and affairs in the Commonwealth that he had acquired could be used to any great extent, for he was not spared many years to enjoy the rest earned after ten years in exacting service for the Empire, which never had a more earnest and unselfish servant. His life and work were truly appreciated in Australia, and by the Sovereign whose honoured representative and trusted servant he had been.

The Governor-General’s'Staff, 1908

180

Visit to Australia of United Stares of America Squadron of 16 Battleships. March through Sydney after Parade. August, 1908

, 8 I

X^7n CHAPTER: IV

1909 —1914

Half-Pay — H.M.S. Vernon —Torpedo School —Atlantic Fleet — H.M.S. Prince of Wales —Second Battle Squadron — H.M.S. Hercules —Secretary to Vice-Admiral Sir John Jellicoe while in command of both Squadrons — H.M.S. Thunderer for manoeuvres, when Admiral Jellicoe was Com-mander-in-Chief of the Enemy Force invading Great Britain —At Admiralty on work of defensive arming of Merchant ships—Food Carriers in time of War.

AFTER a few months half-pay, which passed very quickly, with occasional visits to London, often breaking my journey from Cornwall to stay at Admiralty House, Devonport, with my old friend, Sir Wilmot Fawkes, Commander-in-Chief, and Lady Fawkes., I was appointed to the Vernon Torpedo School at Portsmouth, quite a good appointment, and a very large establishment as regards work. It was altogether an interesting experience, under the command of Captain R. Phipps Hornby—another friend of many years standing—he had been in command of the Pylades in Australia, in Sir Lewis Beaumont’s time. Soon after arrival at Portsmouth I paid my first visit to the Royal Naval College at Osborne and stayed the week-end with Basil Brooke, First-Lieutenant there. I had not seen him since he was on board the Powerful Flagship in Australia, when he was lent as an extra A.D.C. to Lord Northcote for some country tours, when we were short of Staff. The Captain, Arthur Christian,

181

221

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

and Commander Arthur Stapleton Cotton, were both old friends. The College had been started since my leaving England, on the site of the old stables, in Queen Victoria’s time, with many buildings added, including a house for the Captain, and messroom, officers’ quarters, and dormitories for the Cadets, with racquet and tennis-courts and a cricketground.

It seemed an excellent idea as a preliminary place for the younger Cadets before they went to Dartmouth, and everything was well organized. Prince Albert of Wales was a Cadet, not long joined, and I looked up a young South Australian —Symon, son of Sir John Symon, who had been Federal Attorney-General in the Reid Ministry during my time in Australia, a distinguished man in public life ; and I well remembered the boy passing his examination.

Osborne House, with the exception of the private apartments used by Queen Victoria, had been converted into a convalescent home for officers.

The Vernon establishment comprised the old sailing line of battleship Marlborough in which were the Captain’s and officers' cabins and mess-rooms, then the Warrior, the first ironclad, and the Ariadne, another old sailing ship. There were large lecture and experimental rooms, a museum, seventeen tenders, gun, torpedo-boats, and other craft were attached ; and there was a large and changing complement of officers on the Staff and classes undergoing instruction in wireless, torpedo and mining work. Payments for all averaged about £lOO,OOO a year. Now the establishment has been removed to the old Ordnance Depot at the entrance to Portsmouth Harbour, and the

222

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

work of the School has been much facilitated by the change.

In June, 1909, I went to London for the Annual Dinner of the officers of His Majesty’s Yachts, past and present —and met numbers of old shipmates and friends, not seen for years. We were honoured by the presence of H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. During the yachting week, the Tsar and Tsaritsa, with their children, were on board the Imperial Yacht Standart in Cowes Roads and the three young and delightful Grand duchesses were often on shore. I lunched on board the Alberta the day the yacht left and had as my neighbour Sir Edward Henry, the Chief Commissioner of Police, who was evidently much relieved that nothing untoward had happened during the visit, which was the last time their Imperial Majesties were n English waters.

While in the Vernon, I had a new court-martial experience on board the Victory, for an officer on one of the harbour ships asked me to act as Prisoner’s Friend—as he was to be tried by court-martial, on what appeared to me somewhat trivial charges, brought against him by his Commanding officer, in the Captain’s absence. I had often been Deputy Judge Advocate at courts-martial, but had never appeared as a Prisoner’s Friend. However, it was an interesting case, and I agreed to help the officer as far as possible. The Court found the charges not proved and the prisoner was acquitted—a satisfactory verdict.

Some time after, when the matter had almost passed out of my mind, I was surprised to receive a silver inkstand with the inscription “From the Prisoner to his Friend’’, with the date. An unexpected and

223

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

touching mark of gratitude, for what was a small service from one brother officer to another !

Towards the end of the year, a tempting offer came to me through Sir Arthur Bigge, that of the post of Comptroller to Lord Grey, the Governor-General of Canada—in the place of Major-General Sir J. Hanbury Williams, who was returning to England. Lord Northcote had given me a hint of it some time before, and I was much inclined to accept, for all that one heard and knew of Lord Grey in Canada a year before, had made a great impression; but I could not afford to lose any more time in the Service and much regretted having to decline the honour.

On May 6, 1910, there was universal consternation at the announcement of the grave illness of the King, and the next morning came news that His Majesty had breathed his last, late in the evening. It was a great shock to everyone and his loss at this time most deplorable. The general feeling was that his death had been prematurely hastened by his return from France on account of political troubles ; and some of the Press laid the greatest responsibility at the door of the Cabinet. In his short reign he had done much for the Country and Empire —many international troubles had been smoothed away, due to his great diplomacy and charm ; and he had rightly earned the name of “Peace-maker”. The heart of the whole Empire went out in sympathy for the King and Queen, Queen Alexandra and Royal Family, and there was a general feeling of an incalculable loss to the country.

In July, the King and Queen came to Portsmouth,

224

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

staying on board the Victoria and Albert, and visited the Naval Establishments, among others the Vernon, when their Majesties were accompanied by the Princess Mary and Prince George. They saw the latest developments in Whitehead torpedoes, mines, and wireless telegraphy.

Our great source of exercise in the afternoons was lawn-tennis at the United Services Recreation Ground, and many hours were spent on the excellent courts. One afternoon, the Commander-in-Chief, Admiral the Hon. Sir Assheton Curzon-Howe, invited me for lawntennis at Admiralty House, and there I met RearAdmiral Jellicoe, Controller of the Navy, who was at Portsmouth for the annual visit of the Board of Admiralty. Captain Ronald Hopwood and FlagCommander Arthur Bromley were also of the party. A few weeks after came a charming letter from Admiral Jellicoe saying that he was going to have command of the Atlantic Fleet in December, and offering me the appointment of Secretary which, needless to say, I was delighted to accept.

Little did I appreciate then what my good fortune was to be, for this commenced a period of service with him, which continued almost without a break until 1920, when he hauled down his Flag as Admiral of the Fleet, after the Naval Mission to India and the Dominions.

Early in November, to my sorrow, came the news of the sudden death of Sir Harry Rawson —I had heard from him quite recently—he had written in good health and spirits and said that he felt better than he had been for thirteen years. He had been able to enjoy shooting and was in the country, but was seized with sudden

225

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

illness which was diagnosed as appendicitis and an operation was urgently advised. He was hurried to a London nursing home, and it was performed ; but he never recovered consciousness from the anaesthetic and passed away to the great grief of his relations and innumerable friends.

In a letter to Lord Chelmsford, the Governor of New South Wales, the Earl of Crewe, Secretary of State for the Colonies, wrote : “After long and distinguished service in the Royal Navy, Sir Harry Rawson was appointed by his late Majesty to be Governor of New South Wales. He held that office for a considerable period, and evidence abounds that he deserved and received the confidence and affection of the community. He did not live long enough to enjoy the rest he had earned by a strenuous life spent in the public service, but he has left behind him a record and example of rare personal charm, and of high public worth.”

Sir John Jellicoe hoisted his Flag on board the Prince of Wales at Portsmouth, as Vice-Admiral Commanding the Atlantic Fleet, towards the end of December in succession to Vice-Admiral H.R.H. Prince Louis of Battenberg.

The Squadron consisted of the battleships Prince of Wales, Formidable, Implacable, London, Queen and Venerable, with the cruisers Doris and Venus, and the Fifth Cruiser Squadron Argyle, Black Prince, Drake and Duke of Edinburgh.

The London flew the Flag of Rear-Admiral S. H. Carden —Second-in-Command of the Atlantic Fleet (who commanded the Naval forces off the Dardanelles

226

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

in 1914). Rear-Admiral F. T. Hamilton flew his Flag in command of the Fifth Cruiser Squadron in the Drake, and later was Second Sea Lord during the early part of the Great War.

Captain Ronald Hopwood, who wrote “The Laws of the Navy”, “Our Fathers”, and other poems, which appear in “The Old Way”, came as Flag-Captain ; the Flag-Commander was Frederic C. Dreyer —already distinguished in everything connected with gunnery ; and the Flag-Lieutenant, Bernard Buxton, who had previously been with Admiral Jellicoe when he flew his Flag for the first time in the Albemarle in 1907, as Second-in-Command of the Atlantic Fleet.

We had Christmas leave before going to sea and left Portsmouth and Spithead for Dover, in a most bitter north-east wind. Dover was the home base for the Atlantic Fleet, and after a few days, we left for Vigo in the North of Spain, the Plymouth ships joining the Fleet off the Eddystone.

The Home Fleet, under Admiral Sir William May, Commander-in-Chief, was at Arosa Bay. Off Vigo we met the Mediterranean Fleet, commanded by Admiral Sir Edmund Poe, and with that force, moored there in three lines—twenty-one ships in all.

Plans were made for combined work in conjunction with the Home Fleet, and Admirals Poe and Jellicoe motored across to Arosa Bay to confer with Admiral May. Two war exercises were carried out at sea, one by day and one at night. Much experience was gained in the disposition and movements of fleets at sea — ships steaming with little or no lights showing at night.

Then there were more tactics, in which different

227

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

Flag Officers took command of battle exercises. It had been found a simple way to refer to these as “P.Z.s” and this became a custom ; the two letters were the signal directing that battle exercises were to be carried out. This particular signal is now obsolete and no longer used.

There was one final exercise with the combined fleets, after which the whole force steamed into Pontevedra Bay in four lines —a magnificent sight, and soon after the Mediterranean Squadron parted company and the Home and Atlantic Fleets went to Arosa Bay.

The Home Fleet held an annual Regatta, which was sadly marred by a whaler from the Glasgow capsizing in the very stiff breeze blowing at the time. She was far away from other boats, and only the officer, a Midshipman, and a boy were rescued. They were picked up some distance out by the Drake steaming out of the harbour on the way to England.

One coaling day, some of us went by train to Santiago de Compostella, a delightful old city, with a very fine cathedral, where it is alleged the bones of St. James the Apostle rest.

In the midst of night manoeuvres on January 25, 1911, a wireless message was received from RearAdmiral Madden, then at the Admiralty, of the death of Sir John Jellicoe’s second daughter, Betty. She had been taken ill soon after the Prince of Wales left Portsmouth, but was on board with Lady Jellicoe and the eldest daughter, before leaving. Captain Hopwood had the sad duty of breaking the news to the griefstricken father, who bore the blow heroically. He was

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

228

in the chart-house with important work going on at the time. Many remembered the two little girls on board in their winter capes when the ship went to Spithead on a bitterly cold day—a gloom was cast over everything and great sympathy went out to the Admiral from all.

At Arosa Bay, Sir William May gave an exposition on the recent exercises to the Flag-officers and Captains, and the Atlantic Fleet left for Gibraltar soon after.

The Governor of Gibraltar was General Sir Archibald Hunter, and the Senior Naval Officer in charge of the dockyard was Rear-Admiral Pelham. The Governor of Algeciras returned Admiral Jellicoe's call made soon after arrival —he was officially "Governor of Algeciras and the fortress of Gibraltar, temporarily in the hands of the English”. Rear-Admiral Cecil Burney arrived in the Good Hope —the new Flagship of the Fifth Cruiser Squadron, soon after us, having relieved Rear-Admiral F. Hamilton in the Drake.

Based on Gibraltar, we at once commenced working up for gunnery exercises and ships were constantly off Tetuan, on the Morocco coast —an admirable place for the purpose. Week-ends were generally spent at Gibraltar, with always much accumulated paper work to get through before leaving again on the following Monday.

With a large garrison and many officials, there was generally something of a social nature going on ; a meet of the Calpe Hunt on Saturdays, and the Hunt Steeplechase and Point-to-Point races, in which some

229

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

Naval officers competed with success ; also an occasional expedition for pig-sticking in Morocco —not far from Tangiers. The Vice-Admiral and Lady Jellicoe, the Flag-Lieutenant and Lady Hermione Buxton, and some others made one party, and a boar fell to Buxton. We also had a very successful Naval Gymkhana, and there was a Rifle Meeting at the North Front Range—the winner of the 500 yards competition was Sir John Jellicoe. We had good tennis-courts at the old Sandpits, and bathing at Rosia Bay, and the weather was a change from England.

The Squadron carried out Gun Layers' Tests off Tetuan, after careful working up, with eminently good results ; and the Flagship then went into dock during an annual refit, during a spell of great heat.

I took this opportunity for a short visit to Seville and Ronda, having arranged with a shipmate to go for the trip with me, but at the last moment he was prevented, so I went alone, as the chance was too good to waste. Unfortunately at Seville, I was rather out of sorts and could not do much, so returned part way to stay at Ronda in the mountains, and a day’s rest there put me right.

At the Reina Victoria Hotel, to my surprise, there were Melbourne friends staying —Mr. and Mrs. Fred Payne, on their way to Madrid and England ; they had disembarked from their steamer at Gibraltar for the inland journey, and it was very pleasant to see them again.

The German Emperor’s Yacht Hohenzollern called at Gibraltar while we were there, on her way to meet the Kaiser at Corfu. By the Emperor’s commands the band was placed at Lady Jellicoe’s disposal during the few hours the yacht was in the harbour, and played

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

230

for her at the villa she had taken; there was a great gathering of guests —it was quite early in the day and was almost a breakfast function, for the yacht was ordered to leave in the forenoon.

During our stay at Gibraltar, a certain Baroness who entertained at her hotel and at Algeciras, was often met. She posed as being French though her title belied that, and her accent was American. She talked of her husband’s chateau in France —but he was in Spain on business ; however, he appeared once and looked typically German. A young daughter, who made friends with the junior officers, was often with her mother, and they showed great keenness in visiting and being shown over ships. A few months after, when we were at Spithead for the Coronation Review, one of the Captains in the Atlantic Fleet told me that the lady and her daughter had been seen at Southsea, but were warned by the police to leave the place at once. It transpired that she was a spy and that the man was not her husband, nor the girl a daughter, and we never heard of them again.

Sir Walter Hely-Hutchinson—who had been lately Governor of Cape Colony, had been staying with the Governor, and as we were returning to England, Sir John Jellicoe invited him to take passage in the Prince of Wales. He was a delightful guest and a great addition to the Admiral's Mess.

On arrival in England, the Prince of Wales went to Devonport to change a defective 12-inch gun in the fore-turret ; this was most expeditiously carried out by the dockyard, for the old gun was hoisted out and the new one in place, and tested, in twenty-three hours.

231

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

The Fleet then had a week’s drill and landing operations at Berehaven, and Bantry Bay—and guns were calibrated. There were Fleet Athletic Sports, after which we joined up with the Home Fleet off Swanage and went to Spithead for the Coronation celebrations.

Some foreign ships had already arrived. The Prince of Wales was detached to look after the Chinese Admiral Cheng Pi-Kwang and the officers of his Flagship, the Hai Chai. They were our guests at dinner on board soon after our arrival. The visiting Admiral made a most excellent speech in English, which could not be reciprocated by any of the hosts in Chinese.

Eighteen foreign countries were represented at Spithead, moored in one line—and the Home and Atlantic Fleets, Five Cruiser Squadrons, Three Tor-pedo-Boat Flotillas, and Eight Submarines were assembled for the Royal Naval Review by the King on Saturday, June 24, 1911.

SHIPS OF WAR REPRESENTING FOREIGN NATIONS AT THE CORONATION NAVAL REVIEW AT SPITHEAD

SATURDAY, JUNE 24, 1911

Name of Ship Nationality

Tone Japanese Capt. K. Yamaguchi

Baenos Ayres Argentine Capt. de Fragata "Enrique Fliess”

Eids-Vold Norway Commodore G. Kielland

Delaware United States Capt. G. A. Gove

San Marco Italy Capitano di Vascello Francesco Capece

Radetzky Austria-Hungary Capt. Paul Fiedler

Von der Tam Germany Kapitan Zur See Mischke

Combined Home. Atlantic, and Mediterranean Fleets arriving at Pontevedra Bay, North of Spain, after Exercises, Febllty’^T

192

On board H.I.M. the Emperor of Germany’s Yacht Meteor, winning the Cowes Town Cup at Regatta, 3rd August, 19! V HJR.H. the Duke of Hcr r von Kulhmann Connaught

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

193

Name of Ship Nationality

0551 a Russia Rear-Admiral Alexander Roussine Capt. C. Blokhiss

K - Urama Japan Vice-Admiral Shimamura Capt. J. Ishii

Danton Fran “ Vice-Admiral Comte de Marches , Capt. J. A. A. A. Habert

Chacabaco Chili Vice-Admiral Luis A. Goni Capt. Guillermo Soublette

_ uumcimo OOUDiette Jacob van Heemskirk Netherlands Rear-Admiral F. C. E. L. Koster __ . Capt. G. L. Goldhart

Hai Cha China Rear-Admiral Cheng Pi-Kwang . Capt. Tang Ting Kwang

Olfert Fischer Denmark Chef d’escadre O. J. M. KofoedHansen rr ... Chef A. F. M. Evers

Hamtdich Turkey Commodore H. Sermid Bey . Lieut. Raouf Bey

Rema Regente Spain Capt. Don Augusto Miranda y . Godoy

Flygia Sweden Capt. Count C. A. Wachtmeister

Georgias Averoff Greek Capt. John Damianos

All the foreign Flag officers and Captains and many representative officers went to London for the Coronation on Thursday, June 22, when officers and men from the Atlantic Fleet lined the streets opposite Westminster Abbey, During the stay of the foreign ships at Spithead, there was a week of entertainments to the visiting officers and men. The Admiralty gave a large ball at the Royal Naval Barracks—where I renewed my acquaintance with Vice-Admiral Shimamura—and a larger garden party at Whale Island. There were International athletic sports ; visits to the country; the Lord Mayor of Portsmouth gave a large banquet for the men at the Town Hall; the British warrant officers entertained their foreign colleagues at the Royal Naval Barracks; and there was a banquet at the Barracks to 1,000 from the visiting ships, with 500 British seamen and marines as hosts.

N

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

235

The illumination of the Fleets at Spithead on the night of the Review was extraordinarily fine —all ships were lit up simultaneously by signal and the effect is difficult to describe adequately.

The British ships dispersed on the 28th for tactical exercises in the North Sea, after which there was a partial assemblage at Cromarty.

The Atlantic Fleet had orders for a visit to Molde and other Norwegian ports in July, but these were cancelled and we returned to Spithead.

We had been in communication with the British Consul at Molde and all arrangements had been made for fresh provisions for the Fleet. Later came news that a German Squadron was expected there the day after that of our proposed arrival. The Kaiser was cruising in Norway on board his yacht the Hohenzollern.

The Agadir incident occurred at this time and there was some international strain.

While we were at Spithead, I went with Admiral Jellicoe and his sisters to the Royal Yacht Squadron grounds at Cowes, and there met an old friend, Captain Begas, of the Imperial German Navy. He had formerly been in command of the German cruiser Kormoran on the Australian station, and we had often met at Sydney. He told me that he was in charge of the Meteor, the Emperor’s yacht, and I introduced him to Sir John Jellicoe. He invited us to go out in the Meteor, and a day or two later, we sailed in her for the race for the Cowes Town Cup. It was squally and wet at first but we had a most exciting race, winning the Cup by under a minute. The Duke and Duchess of Connaught and some members of the German Embassy were on board.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

236

After lunch we went to see Baron Krupp von Bolen’s yacht the Germania which had also been in the race. Begas told me that his crew, a very smart one, were mostly German bluejackets, the two Spithead pilots were the only English he had. Not many years before the whole crew had been English.

The Atlantic Fleet went to Berehaven in September, and there we held our annual regatta. Among other events there was a Veteran Officers’ Skiff race, without a coxswain, Sir John Jellicoe stroked a quadruple sculler very skilfully and his boat won. It was all the more praiseworthy, for up to the last moment there was some doubt whether he would be fit to pull, as he had been suffering from lumbago, and before the race had his back ironed with a heater.

The second boat was stroked by Rear-Admiral Cecil Burney, commanding the Fifth Cruiser Squadron. The Prince of Wales won the Silver Chanticleer, a beautifully modelled Nuremburg Cock, which had been given by Admiral Sir George Egerton some years previously for the largest number of points gained in the annual regatta.

We then visited Queenstown, Torbay and Portland, and on the eve of leaving England for our winter cruise south, for me the sorrowful news came that Lord Northcote had passed away at Eastwell, on September 29. I had known of his failing health, but it was a great cause of grief, for he had been such a kind and considerate friend in my four years with him in Australia, and it seemed so tragic that he should be taken when he had just begun to enjoy a respite from many years of valuable work, full of ripe experience and first-hand knowledge of Empire problems.

237

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

and in administration, one of the wisest of counsellors.

With Gibraltar again as a base for the Fleet, many weeks were spent in working up for battle practice and it was a strenuous time for each ship. It was eventually carried out in November, but the results were much affected by strong winds each day, and were not so good as had been hoped.

The Vice-Admiral had shown great personal keenness in the vital importance of good gunnery and made a practice of going on board each individual ship for the firing, and had the able assistance of his FlagCommander, F. C. Dreyer, who accompanied him. The Inspector of Target Practice, Rear-Admiral R. H. Peirse, and Staff, came to Gibraltar for the battle practice.

On November 15, the Medina arrived with the King and Queen on their Majesties' voyage to India, and stayed at Gibraltar for a few hours. The Atlantic Fleet, anchored in the outside harbour, manned ship and gave combined cheers by signal—a time allowance being made so that the sound from all ships should reach the Medina simultaneously.

That night the Fleet carried out night-firing at sea. The Governor, General Sir Archibald Hunter, and General Parrott, Commanding the Royal Artillery, came on board for the practice and were much impressed.

In the early hours of December 13, the P. & O. SS. Delhi, with the Princess Royal, Duchess of Fife, the Duke of Fife and two daughters on board, went ashore off Cape Spartel on the Morocco coast. RearAdmiral Christopher F. Cradock, who in 1914 met so glorious a death at Coronel against overwhelming

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

238

odds, Second-in-Command of the Atlantic Fleet, was sent out at once in the Duke of Edinburgh, and other ships followed, with rocket apparatus, tugs and the Gibraltar lifeboat. He landed the Royal party from the Delhi safely in a cutter —though it stranded and was swamped close to the beach, and after a very rough walk they reached the British Legation at Tangier in the evening. A French man-of-war, the Friant, which had also gone to the assistance of the Delhi, lost an officer and two men through the capsizing of a steam cutter. The Duke of Edinburgh brought about forty women and children passengers to Gibraltar.

The King had only announced the day before at the Durbar, that Delhi was to be the future capital of India.

Sir John Jellicoe went to Tangier the next day in the Prince of Wales and then on to Cape Spartel. The crew were being landed from the stranded steamer in a breeches life-buoy, and the salving of the cargo was going on.

We left for England soon after, as the Admiral had been selected to take over command of the Second Battle Squadron from Vice-Admiral Sir George Callaghan, who became Commander-in-Chief of the Home Fleet. On arrival at Portsmouth, Admiral Jellicoe hoisted his Flag in the modern Dreadnought-battle-ship Hercules, at Portsmouth, and we turned over to her from the Prince of Wales, and Rear-Admiral Cecil Burney took command of the Atlantic Fleet.

In January, 1912, the Home and Atlantic Fleets left for Arosa Bay, carrying out tactical and strategical

1 9§

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

exercises en route. We had a rough passage and found the Hercules very lively, owing to the bilge keels being too small. When we were on the return passage to England in February, the Medina passed us in the Bay early one morning—a blaze of light—with their Majesties, on their return voyage from India.

News of the death of the Duke of Fife in Egypt was received while we were at Arosa Bay, and we heard from Gibraltar that all functions during the short stay of the Medina had been cancelled in consequence.

We went to Weymouth on arrival in England and the First Lord of the Admiralty, Mr. Winston Churchill, came for a week-end, on board the Admiralty yacht Enchantress.

One of the party who followed the First Lord on board, had never seen the Enchantress, and exclaimed in a somewhat squeaky voice : “What a jolly boat! What a jolly boat I” as he looked along the deck aft. The Captain—a fine seaman of the old school, was aghast and scandalized that he should have lived to hear such a term applied to his Command.

Mr. A. J. Balfour 1 was one of the guests on board the Enchantress. A Flag-officer who sat next to him at dinner, told of a conversation in which Mr. Balfour referred to the feud and animosity then existing between two distinguished Naval officers which had been a surprising revelation that men of note, each having the interests of the great Naval Service at heart, should allow their divergences of opinion to be made public. He had always thought that Naval officers were averse to such publicity, and finally remarked that: “Of course.

1 Later Earl Balfour, K.G.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

240

in his own mouldy line of business, one might expect that sort of thing”—presumably referring to politics.

In March came a lengthy stay in Torbay, where it blew hard for most of the time ; the Admiral commenced inspection of ships, and some gun-layer tests were carried out, after which the Squadron went to Portland for more gunnery work.

In May, the King came to Weymouth in the Victoria and Albert, my old friend, Admiral Sir Lewis Beaumont, was on board as First and Principal Naval Aide-de-Camp. It was his last period of duty as he retired on May 19 —his birthday and mine as well. It was a great pleasure to meet him again, when I dined on board the Royal Yacht.

The King went to sea in the Neptune and witnessed some firing by the Fleet, and a submarine attack.

Then we visited the west coast of Scotland and lay off Colonsay where ships carried out annual torpedo long range firing, and night gun practice.

Everywhere we had to rely on golf for exercise when possible, but we managed to get short leave occasionally; and in June I went to see my people in Cornwall, while the ship was at Portsmouth.

In July, 1912, we had combined manoeuvres in the North Sea, and in these the Admiralty took charge of the Naval forces south of the Forth, but operations did not last many days and we returned to Queensferry.

There I found telegrams from home waiting for me ; they could not be delivered before as during manoeuvres wireless communications were cut off — my father, who had been in a precarious state of health for a year, was dangerously ill—and I travelled through

200

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

the night from Edinburgh and arrived some hours before the end. I was very thankful to be there in time, and with my mother and sister, and to have a few days' leave before returning to the Hercules. The Fleet was at Lamlash, working up for battle practice, which was carried out on the Firth of Clyde —and also Officers of Quarters’ long-range finding. I had a good day's shooting at Brodrick. Four of us took the shooting on Holy Island for a very small sum; we had some good afternoons there, and generally a small mixed bag. With a few volunteer bluejackets and marines as beaters, it was great fun, and they enjoyed it as much as we did.

On our way south down the west coast of Ireland, we had some practice with lyddite shell at the Bills Rock, Clew Bay.

The Hercules went into dockyard hands at Portsmouth and Admiral Jellicoe and Staff turned over temporarily to the Colossus, commanded by Captain W. E. Goodenough, who had been Sir John Jellicoe’s Flag-Captain in the Albemarle in 1907 and who, in the Great War, played a very distinguished part as Commodore in the Southampton, Second Light Cruiser Squadron.

Strategical exercises were carried out with battleships and cruisers in the Channel, working from Weymouth Bay, with the Commander-in-Chief and RearAdmirals Sir George Warrender and the Hon. Sir Cecil Colville—and we then went on to Berehaven. Rear-Admiral Rosslyn E. Wemyss succeeded RearAdmiral Herbert G. King Hall as Second-in-Command of the Second Battle Squadron in the Orion.

The Thunderer carried out exhaustive trials with

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

242

the system for Director firing, originated by ViceAdmiral Sir Percy Scott, which had been installed in the ship. These trials were very successful and Admiral Jellicoe reported most favourably and recommended its adoption—this was finally approved by the Admiralty and was of inestimable value in the Great War. The country owes a great debt of gratitude to Sir Percy Scott for the invention. He was honoured by a Baronetcy. To Lord Jellicoe credit is due for realizing its possibilities in War; he exerted great pressure while Vice-Admiral Commanding the Second Battle Squadron for the adoption of the Director and continued to do so when Second Sea Lord. It was fortunate that his reputation as an officer of outstanding ability—including a vast knowledge of gunnery —had been firmly established. His championship of the Director carried much weight in consequence—in the face of vigorous opposition from the great majority of gunnery officers. As a result, all our guns of 12-inch and over at the Battle of Jutland were fired by Director.

The Hercules arrived at Berehaven in November, and the Admiral and Staff returned to her from the Colossus. We went to Portland when the trials in the Thunderer were completed, and continued our ordinary gunnery programme.

Admiral Jellicoe allowed me to have an old Australian friend on board for a few days. Dr. James Barrett, 1 of Melbourne, who had received permission from the Admiralty to be present at gunnery practice. He was much impressed and was fortunate to see the Colossus do some very fine shooting at over 14,000

1 Now Lieut.-Colonel Sir James Barrett, K.8.E., C.8., C.M.G., R.A.M.C.

243

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

yards. Captain W. E. Goodenough 1 was in command ; and Lieut.-Commander W. F. French, the Gunnery officer.*

Members of the Board of Admiralty witnessed this practice from the Admiralty yacht Enchantress. It was carried out at a towed Battle Practice Target. The firing was very good and showed that the intensive and progressive gunnery developments and training of the Fleet during the previous fourteen years, had, by 1912, reached a stage when effective fire could be carried out at a target, towed on a course unknown, at a range of over 14,000 yards.

The Admiralty had foreseen such developments and in consequence the main armament gun-sights of the Vanguard and later capital ships were graduated up to over 21,000 yards, and we reaped the benefit of this during the Great War.

The Second Battle Squadron headed the Navy in 1912 in Battle Practice and Gun Layers Tests.

In December, Vice-Admiral Sir John Jellicoe was appointed Second Sea Lord, being relieved in the Second Battle Squadron by Vice-Admiral Sir George Warrender, Bt., with whom I remained for a short time, until appointed to the President for services at the Admiralty with Rear-Admiral Henry H. Campbell’ on an entirely new project—the self-defensive arming of merchant ships (food carriers). The credit for accelerating this project was due to the then First Lord, Mr. Winston Churchill.

Early in January, 1913, Rear-Admiral H. H. Campbell commenced working on the proposed scheme,

1 Admiral Sir William Goodenough, G.C.B.

1 Now Rear-Admiral.

Now Admiral Sir Henry Campbell, K.C.V.0., C.B.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

244

and the preliminaries and plans for its development. Much thought and consideration were given to this important step before practical work could be started. He had devoted time and study to the problem of food supply for the nation, and had been the author of valuable papers on this vital subject when head of the Trade Division of the Admiralty Intelligence Department.

It was known that German liners had everything on board —guns, mountings and ammunition, to transform them at once into raiders on our merchant fleet at sea on the outbreak of hostilities. But we had a number of 4.7 guns for our ships, of larger calibre than those of the Germans.

The vessels first selected were large food carriers—with guns mounted so that they could only be used for defence when attacked.

Being right aft, to use them effectively the Captain would have to turn his stern on the enemy, thus protecting engines and boilers, and run away, preserving his status as a peaceful trader —and his endeavours were entirely centred on being able to bring food home to England.

The status of a merchant ship and the Master, in these conditions, had been carefully examined and considered by the Solicitors of the Treasury ; and fortified by their opinion, the scheme was developed without further delay. There were many points to consider, and one was the provision of an R.N.R. officer to take charge of the guns, two captains of guns and crew, position to be selected for the mounting of the guns, and a place in each ship where a magazine could be constructed.

A plan for the training of young officers in the

245

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

Royal Navy was approved of, and Midshipmen R.N.R. were drafted to battleships and battle cruisers for a year’s training. When War broke out in 1914, about 200 Midshipmen, R.N.R., had completed their courses in the Worcester and Conway training ships, and at the Pangbourne Nautical College. These at once formed a valuable addition to our junior ranks. Arrangements were made for the training of gun-layers and crew — and for them to receive pay for so doing.

The guns were to be given by the Admiralty, but the expense of mounting them —strengthening the decks, if necessary, and the erection of magazines, was to be borne by the ship-owners.

Three R.N.R. officers were appointed for duty at the London, Southampton and Liverpool docks, respectively, with a Gunnery Instructor and Armourer at each port. These directed the fitting of guns, and magazines, and trained the gun-crews. The gun-layers had a special course of training at the Portsmouth Gunnery School.

By the time hostilities began in 1914 —after eighteen months' work —thirty-nine large liners, food-carriers, had been defensively armed with two 4.7 guns, with personnel and material for their use.

In the eighteen months preceding the War, the following ships were armed ;

White Star . . . . 11

R. M. S. P. . . . . xo

Federal Houlders (Argentine trade) 5

G. Thompson & Co. (Aberdeen Line) 3

Wilson Line, Hull ... 3

New Zealand Shipping Co. . 2

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

246

Federal S. S. Co. ... 2

Shaw Savill & Albion Co. . . 2

Turnbull Martin & Co. . . i

39

The Royal Mail Steam Packet Company was the first to be approached, and Sir Owen Philipps, the Chairman, afterwards Lord Kylsant, was so impressed by the grave food situation that would ensue on outbreak of war, that he agreed to the fitting of the armaments on board a number of the Company’s larger vessels free of expense to the Admiralty.

On April 25, the Aragon, one of the R.M.S.P. Co’s ships, left England for South America, armed with two 4.7-inch guns. The patriotic lead thus given was not without its influence on other shipowners—many of whom offered their ships—including the White Star, Aberdeen, Houlder Lines, and others ; though some definitely refused to have anything to do with the scheme.

When the proposal of the Admiralty was made public, there was a certain amount of opposition stirred up in the City—undoubtedly through pro-German influence —and occasionally a section of the Press wrote against its adoption, pointing out that merchant vessels with guns mounted might be treated as pirates ; but before starting on the development of the scheme we had assurances from the Law Officers of the Crown that such was not legally the case.

On one of my visits to the City, a certain shipowner who took advantage of the Admiralty offer, after

247

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

the scheme had been explained, warned me that a “simple sailor" unversed in business matters, might be hoodwinked by crafty City men, and warned me to be careful; however, there was no experience of anything of that nature. Some refused to have anything to do with the scheme and implied that the Admiralty was responsible for the protection of ships and cargoes, wherever they might be when war broke out.

As a matter of fact, these were the first to cry out when war was declared, and complained that as vessels had been supplied with two guns, one should be removed as there would soon not be enough to supply ships, and questions on the subject were asked in Parliament, at their behest.

In August, 1913, Sir John Jellicoe, who was then Second Sea Lord, hoisted his Flag in the Thunderer at the Nore, for manoeuvres, and I went with him as Secretary —he was in command of an “enemy" fleet with transports, and the main idea was to land a force on the East Coast. The attacking force was successful and carried out its objective in spite of the defending forces, under Admiral Sir George Callaghan. The manoeuvres were cancelled after the first phase, and other exercises took their place. The First Lord, Mr. Winston Churchill, was on board the Thunderer for a short time, and left the ship in the North Sea, embarking in the new large destroyer Swift , for Harwich ; but the exercises did not last long and ships were dispersed.

At the end of August, Lady Jellicoe presented her husband with a daughter, now Lady Prudence Jellicoe, and Captain Ronald Hopwood and I became godfathers.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

248

The defensive arming of ships went on steadily and merchant vessels were taken in hand in increasing numbers. In June, 1914, the Aberdeen liner Euripides, a new ship, left Cardiff for the Thames, with two guns fitted, and the company invited a large party on board for a trial cruise. Off the coast of Cornwall, the guns were used at a target and for the first shot the gun was laid and fired by Sir George Reid —the High Commissioner for Australia, one of the guests. The ship was employed on the frozen meat trade and was fitted with all the latest improvements for refrigeration.

When the War came. Admiral Campbell and I both went to sea and he flew his flag in the Bacchante, in command of Cruiser Squadron “C”, and our little department was soon doubled and trebled ; it was fortunate for the country that the well-settled foundation of an organization of vital importance should have been laid in time, and it was now a comparatively easy matter to extend the work at once to meet immediate requirements.

Information on the subject, supplied by the late W. G. Perrin, 0.8. E., Admiralty Librarian, and Lieut., R.N.V.R., Anti-Aircraft Corps—and later Civil Assistant to the Director of Services ;

DEFENSIVELY-ARMED SHIPS

Ratio of success when guns were used, and otherwise

The real practical value of defensive armament and vital necessity of an efficient look-out is shown by the following :

The difference in the ratio of enemy success, when the submarine was not seen prior to attack and therefore no defensive

249

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

action taken, and vice versa, is most striking—the figures being 77.7 per cent., in attacks resulting in loss or damage—in the first case —and twelve per cent, when the enemy was seen and guns were used.

Percentage of Ships armed in April, 1917 : 39 per cent.,

and

At the end of the War, October, 1918 ; 83 per cent.

Number of Ships armed in April, 1917 . . 2,x00

and in October, 1918 . . . . . 4,200

The following summary of attacks on British vessels made by enemy submarines is of interest;

From January 1, 1916 to January 25, 1917

No. of Defensively armed ships attacked . 310

of which ..... 236 escaped

„ Sunk by Torpedo without warning . 62

„ Sunk by Gunfire from Submarines . 12

Unarmed Ships attacked . . . 302

of which ..... 67 escaped

No. Sunk by Torpedo without warning . 30

„ Sunk by Gunfire, Bombs, etc. . . 205

It is, of course, to be remembered that many of the unarmed ships were slow and of comparatively small tonnage.

I spent the week-end, July 25-27, 1914, at a country house in Kent ; the Press was then beginning to seethe, and I always recollect a conversation with another guest —Lord Bryce, during a walk on the Sunday afternoon —the last peaceful one for many a long year. This great jurist and authority on the powers of diplomacy was emphatic that everything would be settled by arbitration and said that war with Germany was unthinkable and could not be.

Less than a week after, I was in the Fleet at Scapa with Admiral Jellicoe.

Admiral sir Jellice.

Commandcr-in-Chicf coming up the Fore-bridge of Iron Duke at Sea, 1914

CHAPTER V

1914 —1918

THE GREAT WAR

Note : This does not aspire to be a detailed history of the Grand Fleet but is mostly a simple record of personal experiences—and little else.

TOWARDS the end of July, 1914, while still working at the Admiralty with Rear-Admiral Henry H. Campbell, on the defensive arming of merchant ships, the Second Sea Lord, Vice-Admiral Sir John Jellicoe, told me confidentially that in the event of war he was to be appointed Second-in-Command of the Home Fleets and that he might have to leave the Admiralty any day. He asked if I would go as his Secretary, an offer accepted at once. In a short time an office staff was collected and secret cyphers and confidential papers necessary for the work of a new Flag appointment obtained.

We left King’s Cross on the evening of Friday, July 31, by mail train for the north, travelling in the Directors’ private car labelled “Sir Robert Turnbull and party”, and nothing was known to the outside world.

Soon after leaving London, the Admiral, who was much perturbed, told me that he had been informed in the afternoon that in the event of war, he was to become Commander-in-Chief. All that transpired at

I°9 Q

253

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

the time is described fully in the first chapters of his book “The Grand Fleet" 1914-1916, and it is unnecessary to repeat it here —but he was gravely concerned at the idea of a transfer in command being made on the outbreak of war, for many reasons. He had been given an envelope marked “Secret. Not to be opened until directed by telegram from the Admiralty.” We crossed from Wick to Scapa in thick fog on Sunday August 1 in the Boadicea, and his Flag was hoisted in the Centurion as Second-in-Command.

In the early hours of Tuesday, August 3, orders were received by telegram to open the envelope and to take command of the now-styled “Grand Fleet”.

We went on board the Iron Duke at once and I did not set foot on shore again for over three months. The Commander-in-Chief, the late Admiral Sir George Callaghan, invited us to breakfast, a meal not likely to be forgotten. Sir George was kindness itself and although he had only received a copy of the Admiralty telegram to Admiral Jellicoe, that he was to be relieved, he showed little of what he must have felt. Preparations were going on for his immediate departure—packingcases were put together apace, and with the excitement and bustle all round. Sir George's cockatoo on its perch in the corner of the dining-cabin kept up a series of wild screams, which added to the confusion. Sir George struck his Flag and proceeded to Aberdeen in the Sappho during the forenoon, and Sir John Jellicoe transferred to the Iron Duke and took the Fleet to sea in a few hours.

Captain R. N. Lawson remained as Flag-Captain for a time, and afterwards commanded the light cruiser Chester, heavily engaged at the Battle of Jutland, the

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

254

ship in which that gallant Boy ist Class, the late John Cornwall, distinguished himself —being awarded the V.C. posthumously.

Captain F. E. Dreyer, who had been Flag-Com-mander to Admiral Jellicoe in two squadrons previous to the War, relieved Captain Lawson as Flag-Captain and commanded the Iron Duke at the Battle of Jutland, and until the Commander-in-Chief went to the Admiralty as First Sea Lord in November, 1916.

Commander Charles R. Royds, who was in the first Scott Antarctic Expedition, remained until promoted. On retirement after the War he became Sir Charles Royds, Assistant-Commissioner of the Metropolitan Police. He died suddenly in 1930.

The staff of Sir George Callaghan who remained, included Commodore H. F. Everett, Captain of the Fleet, eventually relieved by Commodore Lionel Halsey ; Flag-Commander Roger Backhouse; Commander the Hon. Matthew Best, War Staff Officer ; Commander R. W. Woods, Signal Officer; Lieut.Commander J. S. Salmond, Wireless Officer; Lieut.Commander R. M. Bellairs, War Staff Officer ; Lieut. W. D. Phipps, Signal Officer. Later Commander C. M. Forbes came as Flag-Commander.

Admiral Jellicoe had brought north with him Captain R. W. Bentinck, as Chief of the Staff; Lieut. H. Fitzherbert as Flag-Lieutenant; Lieut.-Commander E. Hardman Jones as Signal Officer; Lieut.-Com-mander R. L. Nicholson as Wireless Officer; Lieut.Commander (N) A. F. B. Carpenter as War Staff Officer, afterwards V.C., and of Zeebrugge fame.

Rear-Admiral C. E. Madden was appointed Chief of Staff almost at once, and Captain Bentinck went in

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

255

that capacity to Vice-Admiral Sir George Warrender, commanding the Second Battle Squadron.

At midnight, a state of war was declared between Great Britain and Germany, and the following telegram from His Majesty the King was received on our first night at sea.

At this grave moment in our national history I send you and through you to the officers and men of the Fleet of which you have assumed command the assurance of my confidence that under your direction they will revive and renew the old glories of the Royal Navy and prove once again the Sure Shield of Britain and of her Empire in the hour of trial.

To this, Sir John Jellicoe sent loyal and dutiful thanks to His Majesty on behalf of the officers and men for the gracious message, which would inspire all with determination to uphold the glorious traditions of the Service.

We returned to Scapa to coal in a few days, and were constantly at sea after —always at first with the expectation of meeting the High Sea Fleet at any time, uppermost in the minds of all. The work of organizing the Fleet and its bases and their protection was immense and the protection was not completed satisfactorily for some months.

On looking back, what now seems remarkable, though not realized at the time, was the smoothness with which the new Command was consolidated and with which the vast organization of the ever-growing Fleet was carried out. War routine generally enveloped

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

256

everyone, and after a few weeks it seemed as if there had never been anything else —past events faded from memory and every soul thought of nothing but the fighting efficiency of the Fleet and the ultimate defeat of the enemy. Every unit of the largest concourse of seamen ever brought together felt the spirit and influence of the Commander-in-Chief.

The belongings of officers on board were reduced to a minimum, and all superfluous uniforms and clothes were landed. During the War the monkey jacket became the Service dress for all occasions and very suitable it proved.

Each ship had an incinerator in use on deck in daytime, for it was imperative that nothing should be thrown overboard—a track of floating rubbish from a large Fleet can be compared to the trail laid for a paperchase on shore.

All documents were destroyed when done with. My servant, who took charge of the daily accumulation from my cabin, once assured me that he put everything in the “insinuator” himself and stood by while they burned.

Time passed very quickly and there was much to do for everyone. The Commander-in-Chief bore the strain wonderfully, and his energy was amazing. With such heavy responsibility on his shoulders and daily increasing work, it was marvellous how one person could so carry on. Each night he made a habit of reading himself to sleep with a cheap thriller novel or detective story, for he said it took his mind temporarily off important matters, and answered admirably.

In my own department, in which I was assisted by an additional secretary, first by Fleet-Paymaster Charles

257

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

F. Pollard, who had been with the late Commander-in-Chief and eventually went with Sir George Callaghan to the Nore Command, Fleet-Paymaster Victor H. T. Weekes taking his place. It occupied some time to get a new war organization working, for there was a varied and immense amount of matter to deal with ; an average of about too telegrams daily received and sent —on some occasions many more. In the Com-mander-in-Chief's office, seven officers and six chief and other writers, two printing presses and printers, were constantly employed; and officers kept regular watch night and day in the cypher office. 1

As soon as an order for operations or movements had been drafted, proofs were made and checked, and then close on 400 copies had to be produced—sometimes at very short notice, for distribution before the Fleet could go to sea. Each ship acknowledged receipt of orders by a special flag which indicated that they had been received by the Flag or Senior Officer of each Squadron or Flotilla. The possibility of a signal being made after going to sea, that such and such an order had not been received, haunted one as a dreadful nightmare. However, thanks to the care of those who worked with me in this particularly important duty, Ido not think this ever happened; although a ship once reported, as we were steaming out of Scapa,

1 The following Officers and Writers served in the Admiral’s Office

Assistant Paymaster: J. A. E. Woodhouse "1 Transferred from Sir George

V. E. D. Valentine V Callaghan’s office and afterR. C. Jerram J wards to other ships.

Paymaster : C. Prior as Senior.

Assistant Paymasters H. Rogers, G. Travis, S. H. Bankhart, L. A. da C. Ricci

and Clerks (Bartimeus), T. R. Moore, S. A. Hussey, P. Addington,

C. H. Marriott and E. D. Guinness, R.N.R.

Chief & other Writers W. H. Samways, S. A. Collins, G. Brine, W. McCarthy,

S. H. Legh, J. R. Whittlesey, and A. Armadale.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

258

that a certain page of Battle Orders just received, had been blown overboard.

While the Fleet was at sea on the morning of Sunday, August 9, 1914, an enemy submarine rose to the surface near the Birmingham (Capt. A. M. Duff) of the First Light Cruiser Squadron, and was promptly rammed by that ship. As the submarine heeled over after being struck, her number was seen to be U,is, and there was much excitement over the sinking of the first U-boat.

Early in the War, Admiral Jellicoe in a private letter to the Prime Minister, made a suggestion, in view of the always precarious condition of the country in regard to food supplies, that some steps might be taken to conserve grain in large quantities, while supplies were plentiful, and quoted, for example, the granaries of old days at Malta which still exist. He received an unofficial reply from one of the Cabinet that he was too pessimistic, as it was anticipated that the German nation would soon be in extremities through the effects of the Blockade. We know what drastic food restrictions were necessary a few years afterwards.

In August, 1914, many ships were held up by the Tenth Cruiser Squadron and taken to Kirkwall with enemy reservists on board who were endeavouring to return to their countries from the United States of America. Orders were received from the Admiralty, advised by the Foreign Office, that they should be allowed to proceed to their destination. Sir John Jellicoe protested by telegram and pointed out that in a short time these men would be fighting against the Allied troops, and he could not understand these

259

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

directions. He was then informed that arrangements had been made for their interment at Stirling Castle, where they were to be sent under escort. There always seemed to be an underlying fear of giving offence to the United States of America in their neutral attitude.

The Fleet left Scapa in October, 1914, and owing to the inadequate protection against possible submarine raids, they used the harbours of Loch na Keal in the Island of Mull, and Loch Swilly which were protected by improvised booms.

While at Loch Swilly, the Audacious (Capt. Cecil F. Dampier), of the Second Battle Squadron, which had left Loch na Keal for battle practice off the north coast of Ireland, struck a mine, and in spite of many attempts to tow her into Loch Swilly—without success, owing to the weight of the ship as she filled with water — she sank. The loss of a new battleship was a grave disaster ; but for obvious reasons at this stage of the War, it was not made public.

The Fleet returned to Scapa in November, by which time there was considerable progress in making the anchorage safe.

From Loch Swilly the Commander-in-Chief left for London one night to attend a Conference at the Admiralty. I accompanied him, and while there was taken into the War Room where there was a large plan of the Pacific Ocean with the last information of the whereabouts of Admiral von Spec’s Squadron—and the arrangements made to waylay him.

Alas ! on that very day, November 1, the Battle of Coronel ended in the sinking of Rear-Admiral Sir C. Cradock and the major part of his Squadron, though it was some days before the news was known.

Division of the Grand Fleet in the North Sea (taken from Iron Duke), 1914

316

His Majesty the King with Commandcr-in-Chicf, Officers and Ship’s Company on board H.M.S. Iron Duke, Fleet Flagship, at Scapa, 1915

317

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

262

Late one night in December, 1914, while at Scapa, the Commander-in-Chief came into my cabin and asked if there was anything more to deal with as he would like to turn in. Papers requiring immediate attention had all been finished and he left the cabin. Almost immediately after an orderly brought a telegram from the cypher office below —it was from the Admiralty giving the news of the sinking of Admiral von Spee’s Squadron by Vice-Admiral Sturdee's force in the South Atlantic. I took it at once to the Admiral, who was in his sleeping cabin and he told me to have a General Signal made to the Fleet with this great news. While I was writing it out in my cabin, he came in and said that at the moment the telegram was brought he was reading Psalm CVX. “Not unto us, O Lord, not unto us, but unto Thy Name give the praise ”

In the first weeks of the War, there was reason to suspect that letters, even in official mail-bags, had been tampered with between London and their arrival on board the Flagship. They came to Kirkwall from Scrabster on the mainland, by the daily steamer. On one occasion an envelope in the sealed bag from the Admiralty was found neatly cut open as was its enclosure —a secret document, which happened to be of no great import. The Commander-in-Chief telegraphed to the First Lord —since previously suspected cases had been reported without effect, though none so daring as this. Mr. Churchill replied that he had made arrangements for messengers to convey despatches to the Flagship daily and that some intelligent young Members of Parliament had been given commissions as Acting-Lieutenants, R.N.V.R., for the duty. This

263

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

system worked well and there was no further cause for complaint; the messengers arrived each morning and returned with despatches from the Commander-in-Chief the same day, as a rule. They were generally in time to breakfast at the Commander-in-Chief’s table, and gave us news from the south, a welcome break in the day's routine.

Among them were the late Sir Harold Smith, M.P., a brother of Lord Birkenhead ; Sir W. Mitchell Thomson, afterwards a Minister in the Baldwin Governments ; Mr. Charles Williams, now M.P. for Torquay; Lieutenants Tickner, Bangay, Gandy, Dennis Hodgson, the late Victor Hodgson, A. F. Whyte (now Sir Frederick late President of the Legislative Assembly, India, 1920-25) ; the Hon. Edward Gulley and Gerald France, afterwards Parliamentary Private Secretary to the President of the Board of Trade.

Lieutenant Sir Edward Hilton Young, R.N.V.R., M.P., later a Minister in the Baldwin governments, who was at first attached to the Cyclops, depot ship at Scapa, but being anxious to get sea work, volunteered for duty in the cypher office, and joined the Iron Duke early in the War. An authority on finance he gave us most interesting lectures on that abstruse subject. He was about a year with us and in his spare time acquired some knowledge of gunnery. This experience proved of much value afterwards for a varied and distinguished career followed, before the War ended ; from the Iron Duke he was attached to the Naval Division to Serbia, then the Harwich force under Commodore Sir R. Tyrwhitt, after that with the R.N. guns on the Flemish front. He was in the Vindictive

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

264

at Zeebrugge, severely wounded, and finally commanded the armoured train at Archangel.

Captain Edward Unwin, who won the V.C. at Gallipoli during the landing from the River Clyde which he commanded, began as Fleet Coaling Officer on board the Iron Duke.

In bad weather in harbour great difficulty was experienced in getting regular exercise on board. One of the doctors, Surgeon Digby K. Bell, gave us physical drill in the late afternoon, and there was deck hockey and medicine ball in fine weather. For the ships' companies, football grounds were made on Flotta Island, and these were continually occupied—a regular routine of times being kept for the various ships. Each year there were boxing competitions in the Squadrons, and the finals were held on Flotta in a natural amphi-theatre-like place—with a platform erected in the centre, so that thousands of officers and men had a perfect view of the proceedings. A golf-course was made on the Island—the construction and care of fairways and greens being undertaken by different squadrons.

The Borodino store-ship was converted into a Fleet Canteen and went alongside ships of the Squadron in turn. One of the holds was fitted with a stage constantly in request for entertainments. Inter-squadron boxing events were fought out on her upper deck, and she proved a great acquisition for officers and men.

So much was continually going on in my own special department, that touch was lost with things even in a short absence, and it was more satisfactory to stay on board. Without realizing it for the first three months, I did not set foot on shore from the end

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

265

of July to the end of October, when I accompanied Sir John Jellicoe to London from Loch Swilly, for a conference at the Admiralty. During the next two years while work was specially strenuous, I had two more spells of three months afloat without landing.

In 1915 and 1916 we were honoured by two visits from His Majesty the King ; and in 1915 by a visit from H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. After the first visit, Admiral Jellicoe had the honour of receiving from His Majesty the following :

I am delighted that I have been able to carry out a long cherished desire to visit my Grand Fleet.

After two most interesting days spent here I leave with feelings of pride and of admiration for the splendid force which you command with the full confidence of myself and your fellow countrymen.

I have had the pleasure of seeing the greater portion of the officers and men of the Fleet. I realize the patient and determined spirit with which you have spent long months of waiting and hoping. I know how strong is the comradeship that links all ranks together. Such a happy state of things convinces me that whenever the day of battle comes my Navy will add fresh triumphs to its old glorious traditions.

Please tell the officers and men of the ships, batteries, trawler patrols, fleet auxiliaries and colliers at this important base how highly I appreciate the keen, cheerful, and efficient manner in which through every kind of weather by day and

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

266

by night they carry out their arduous and exacting duties.

The following message was sent to His Majesty after his departure :

July 9, 1915.

On behalf of the officers and men of the Grand Fleet I beg to tender to your Majesty my most profound thanks for your gracious message.

Your Majesty's intimate knowledge of the officers and men of the Royal Navy will enable you to appreciate the depth of their devotion, loyalty and respectful affection, which your visit has intensified.

The memory of it will carry us through any further trial of patience that may lie before us.

On my behalf I beg to assure your Majesty of my conviction that the glorious traditions of the Navy are safe in the hands of those I have the honour to command.

In the early part of 1916, Rear-Admiral C. Madden, Chief of Staff, and I, paid a short visit to London for an investiture by the King at Buckingham Palace — he to receive a K.C.B. and Knighthood, while my honour was the C.B. We had been gazetted on January I—it1 —it was a great surprise to me, for I had not the remotest idea that the Commander-in-Chief had made a recommendation and it had been kept a dark secret from me.

We had a day in London and two nights in the train. It was a change to get a glimpse of the place,

267

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

the people and the streets, in comparative darkness on the way to King's Cross in the evening, but it left a gloomy impression.

The Archbishop of York paid us a visit and confirmed a large number of men and boys on board the Iron Duke. He held an open-air service on Flotta and consecrated a piece of ground on the Island of Moy as a Naval Cemetery. Later there were visits from the Bishop of London, Cardinal Bourne, the Heads of the Presbyterian and Wesleyan Churches, and the Jewish Rabbi.

We had visits from Dominion Premiers and Ministers, distinguished visitors from France and Russia, and representatives of the Press at different times while the Fleet was at Scapa. During one visit, some Australian politicians were taken for a short run in a submarine which submerged just astern of the Flagship, and from conversations of two or three on deck, I gathered that political opponents of the spectators were under water.

On January i, 1915, the Formidable battleship, while in company with her Squadron under ViceAdmiral Sir Lewis Bayley, was torpedoed in the Channel with heavy loss of life. The officer of the watch at the time (Lieutenant H. Simonds), wrote me a letter describing his experiences, and the incident is mentioned as showing the advantages of what was known as the “Gieve” waistcoat, which had an indiarubber belt inside and easily inflated. When the ship sank he was on the bridge with Captain H. N. Loxley who told him to jump overboard. The Captain was not seen again nor his dog, which had been alongside him, Simonds described his feelings

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

268

as he was dragged down by the ship's suction and thought he would soon touch the bottom, but suddenly felt his “Gieve” assert itself, and he came up to the surface with a rush, close to a light cruiser, and with the help of a rope thrown from her he scrambled on board.

In the case of another ship sinking earlier than this, some of the Midshipmen had been picked up and were watching other survivors arrive—among them the gun-room steward, also in a “Gieve” waistcoat; but there was some disappointment when it was observed that under his arms were the gun-room extra and private account books, which he had clung to all the time.

Early in May, 1916, a Zeppelin was sighted by the First Light Cruiser Squadron while taking part in operations towards the Horn Reef. It was brought down by gunfire from the Galatea and Phaeton. We heard afterwards that as the Zeppelin fell in flames, a General Signal was made from the ship, bearing the Broad Pennant of the Commodore : “See last verse of Hymn 224.” Oh, happy hand of pilgrims, look upward to the skies.

The Grand Fleet left Scapa on May 30 for the south, being joined at sea by the Second Battle Squadron from Cromarty; and the Battle Cruiser Fleet left Rosyth with orders to meet the Battle Fleet at a rendezvous —as was the custom when carrying out one of the usual sweeps in the North Sea —which so often had been fruitless as regards meeting the High Sea Fleet. The Third Battle Cruiser Squadron, under the late Rear-Admiral the Hon. Horace Hood, which had been at Scapa for gunnery exercises, left at the same time to rejoin the Battle Cruiser Fleet.

269

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

We had become accustomed to similar cruises south without result and there was a thrill when in the early afternoon of the next day, news was received that the Galatea had sighted some of the enemy ships —this information was gathered from intercepted wireless signals from that ship and the Southampton to the Lion, Sir David Beatty’s Flagship. The Battle Fleet at once raised steam for full speed and prepared for action soon after. The Battle Cruiser Fleet reported that enemy battle cruisers and destroyers had been sighted, and the Battle Fleet proceeded at full speed to join that Force.

Then came the decision of the Commander-in-Chief to deploy, without consulting anyone, and on scanty information as to the disposition of the enemy. It was a masterly move of unerring judgment and the Fleet became a single line of battleships —eighteen miles in length.

The heaviest losses took place before junction was effected. That of the Invincible, Rear-Admiral Hood’s Flagship, was only known later in the afternoon, as during the deployment of the Battle Fleet we passed a wreck showing the bows and stern only afloat and a big gap between. The bow appeared to be upside down. From a distance when first sighted, and until we neared the objects, I thought it might be a broken Zeppelin. We did not know until the next morning of the loss of the Queen Mary and Indefatigable, though we could not make up the full number of ships in the Battle Cruiser Fleet. My station on board the Iron Duke was in the gun-control tower with Commander Geoffrey Blake who was Gunnery Officer in charge. The following notes were written at the time :

Morning Prayers on board H.M.S. Iron Duke at Scapa. The Bishop of London giving the Blessing, i 9,6

On the Place dc la Concorde. Paris, after Allied Conference at Qnai d’Orsay. and May, „„

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

272

p.m. MAY 31, 1916.

5.50 —Heavy firing heard (about 70 green) some distance away. Very misty ahead.

6.00 —Battle-cruiser Fleet made out steering across our bows, firing well on extreme bearing (starboard).

Our cruiser screen (about ten miles ahead) firing at something we could not see.

Battle-cruisers, and shortly after Fifth Battle Squadron, came obliquely across towards Battle Fleet from starboard wing.

Lion had smoke and steam coming from under “B” turret.

Battle Fleet altered course in succession to starboard and deployed to port into line of battle.

Battle-cruisers ahead.

Disabled t.b.d. passed on starboard side— Acasta —much steam issued from her starboard beam and forward.

6.23 —Opened fire. Three-funnelled German cruiser on starboard beam observed —appeared damaged—large amount of steam coming out of her.

Battle-cruisers fired at her.

Iron Duke fired two salvos (no hits observed).

Other ships fired at her.

British armoured cruiser ahead made great quantity of smoke.

Sighted three or four German battleships of the Koenig class appearing through the mist, about 70 green.

6.25 —Two armoured cruisers. Defence, and another armoured cruiser crossed bows of Lion —were badly straddled by the enemy. One blew up on our quarter — Defence.

6.30 —Opened fire (range 12,000 yards).

}I saw these quite clearly —the time by the Usborne Fall of Shot Indicator was perfect.

First salvo short.

Second salvo hit.

Third two hit.

Fourth three hit —all forward.

Two more salvos—result not seen.

Observed steam and smoke coming from under bridge and abaft “B” turret of enemy battleship.

She altered course to starboard and was lost to sight.

6.40 —Saw two objects on starboard bow which at first seemed as if they might be the fore and hind parts of a broken Zeppelin. On approaching, found it to be a ship broken in two, the bow apparently upside down and the stern in a slanting position. Several objects in water between the two parts.

p

226

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

p.m.

T.b.d. with boat lowered picking up survivors—some of whom were on board t.b.d.

Afterwards found to have been wreck of Invincible.

T.b.d. was the Badger.

Shortly after, opened fire on enemy battleship—other ships firing at her.

Range, 16,000 yards—shots fell to right.

7-i8 —Four salvos fired and she became obscured in mist. Another battleship or battle-cruiser came in sight, but before fire could be opened she was obscured by large dense black smoke screen made in front of her by t.b.d. which completely obliterated her.

7.21 —Destroyer attack developed against us on starboard quarter. We opened with 6-inch guns until not seen from tower (but afterwards claimed that one t.b.d. was sunk).

7.27 —Turrets fired by director. T.b.d. disappeared and director gunner spoke through voice pipe that she had been blown to pieces.

Heavy firing on starboard bow and ahead —only flashes seen in a grey mist—these were continuous.

Light cruiser passing down lines appeared to be severely hit —amidships. One flash lit up the whole of main deck but she proceeded on. Afterwards found to be Calliops.

Course altered to south.

THURSDAY, JUNE i, 1916

a.m.

2.00 —Quarters sounded.

2.50 —Zeppelin sighted coming up astern —saw her on port quarter, passing to starboard. Range 19,000 —21,000 yards. Some ships fired but Iron Duke did not.

Note —The German smoke screen was very effective ; but it is not thought that enemy ship could see through it.

Usborne Fall of Shot Indicator was found most useful in distinguishing our hits.

When the first heavy firing was heard some distance off and ahead the mist was so thick and low down that it was impossible at first to distinguish between our own battle cruisers and those of the enemy —all we

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

274

saw were the tops of masts and an occasional glimpse of funnels —but plenty of huge flashes from heavy guns—in the midst of a dense grey fog.

Having occasion to go on the bridge at this time, I heard the Commander-in-Chief remark that he wished to goodness someone could tell him “who” was firing at “what”. Wireless communication was much delayed through “jamming”, and few messages were received direct.

An incident was noted as the Battle Fleet was deploying—the much-damaged destroyer Acasta not under control then was passed—with much smoke and steam issuing from her and the crew cheered the passing ships. We never expected that she would be seen again, but she eventually managed to get into harbour. She had been in action with enemy light cruisers.

After the Battle Fleet was engaged, the enemy turned away covered by a thick smoke screen as the whole Grand Fleet steamed south during the night in the hope of cutting him off from his bases. There was a night action between our destroyers astern of the Fleet and the enemy, and during the night the Black Prince was sunk and there were considerable losses on both sides—and at dawn before 3 a.m. the Grand Fleet turned north so as to be in readiness for the High Sea Fleet if met with. It was not known till later that the enemy had passed south to the Horn Reef and bases.

The losses at Jutland were :

British

German

3 Battle-Cruisers —

2 Battleships—Dreadnought

Invincible, Queen

type.

Mary and Indomitable

275

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

British

German

I Battleship— Deutschland type.

3 Cruisers—

4 Light Cruisers, including

Wiesbaden and Frauenlob.

Defence, Warrior, and

Black Prince.

i heavy ship of light Cruiser.

6 Torpedo Boat Destroyers.

i Submarine.

8 Torpedo Boat Destroyers

Probabilities in addition.

i Battleship or Battle Cruiser.

i Battleship—Dreadnought type.

3 Torpedo Boat Destroyers,

and

3 Submarines (possible).

A Zeppelin was sighted soon after 3 a.m., in the rising sun looking like an enormous silver fish. She was out of range, though fire was opened by some ships and she disappeared towards Denmark. The Fleet returned to Scapa and other bases on Friday, June 2, and was ready for sea again that evening. The next day being the birthday of the King, the following message was sent by the Commander-in-Chief on behalf of the Fleet and the reply from His Majesty was appreciated immensely :

On the occasion of Your Majesty’s Birthday, the officers and men of the Grand Fleet with humble duty send respectful and heartfelt good wishes with loyal hope and determination that

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

276

through victory to Your Majesty's Arms and to those of our gallant Allies the blessings of peace may be restored.

The following reply was received from His Majesty:

I am deeply touched by the message which you have sent me on behalf of the Grand Fleet. It reaches me on the morrow of a battle which has once more displayed the splendid gallantry of the officers and men under your command. I mourn the loss of brave men, many of them personal friends of my own, who have fallen in their country's cause. Yet even more do I regret that the German High Seas Fleet in spite of its heavy losses was enabled by the misty weather to evade the full consequences of an encounter they have always professed to desire, but for which when the opportunity arrived they showed no inclination. Though the retirement of the enemy immediately after the opening of the general engagement robbed us of the opportunity of gaining a decisive victory the events of last Wednesday amply justify my confidence in the valour and efficiency of the fleets under your command.

The Commander-in-Chief acknowledged its receipt as follows :

The gracious message which your Majesty has been pleased to send on the occasion of the recent action with the German High Sea Fleet has been communicated to the officers and men of the Grand Fleet.

277

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

It is a matter of the greatest gratification to all ranks to receive such an expression of Your Majesty’s approval, and sympathy for the loss of our gallant comrades.

Reports were constantly being received of the arrival of disabled ships at different ports on the east coast, and all missing ones were accounted for.

The following Memorandum was issued to the Fleet by the Commander-in-Chief :

June 4, 1916.

I desire to express to the Flag-Officers, Captains, Officers and Men of the Grand Fleet my very high appreciation of the manner in which the ships were fought during the action on May 31, 1916.

At this stage, when full information is not available, it is not possible to enter into details, but quite sufficient is already known to enable me to state definitely that the glorious traditions handed down to us by generations of gallant seamen were most worthily upheld.

Weather conditions of a highly unfavourable nature robbed the Fleet of that complete victory which I know was expected by all ranks, which is necessary for the safety of the Empire and which will yet be ours.

Our losses were heavy and we miss many most gallant comrades, but, although it is very difficult to obtain accurate information as to the enemy losses, I have no doubt that we shall find that they are certainly not less than our own. Sufficient information has already been received for me to make that statement with confidence.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

278

I hope to be able to give the Fleet fuller information on this point at an early date, but do not wish to delay the issue of this expression of my keen appreciation of the work of the Fleet, and my confidence in future complete victory.

I cannot close without stating that the wonderful spirit and fortitude of the wounded has filled me with the greatest admiration.

I am more proud than ever to have the honour of commanding a fleet manned by such officers and men.

Damaged ships were repaired very expeditiously at the various ports and certain improvements and additions were made as a result of experience gained at the Battle of Jutland.

A proposal from Sir John Jellicoe that arrangements might be made for the interchange of visits between the Fleet and the Army in France, and vice versa, when feasible, was agreed to warmly by Sir Douglas Haig. When opportunities arose small parties specially selected from the various Squadrons of the Grand Fleet were occasionally sent. It was an understood principle that on return from the trenches an account of the visitor's experiences was to be given to his shipmates in the form of a lecture, at which officers would not be present, and the scheme was much appreciated by all. The parties were composed of a small number of officers and about fifty chief and petty officers, non-commissioned officers of the Royal Marines and men of all ranks, in charge of a Commander, and they were absent from the Fleet for

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

279

about a week. Every facility was given them by the military authorities to see life in the front lines.

The informal lectures on return were very popular. I was told of one given by a Chief-Carpenter's Mate who was deputed by his party to be their spokesman. He gave a graphic account of everything seen and dwelt much on the devastated areas and the awful scenes of desolation and destruction through which they passed.

Of one particular spot where once a smiling village stood he remarked that nothing was left after the continued shelling it had undergone. What had been a little church was razed to the ground and only recognizable was the churchyard in which “still upstanding were Images—stone—white—two in number”. The recourse to official store-book parlance was received with much hilarity by the listeners.

With another party was a Midshipman from the Iron Duke, L. H. D. Helm, now retired as a Lieut.Commander, and a section to which he was detailed was held by part of the Duke of Wellington’s (West Riding) Regiment, from whom he and others received a warm welcome. I am indebted to the Regimental Magazine Records, 1915-16, for this short account of the visit.

The Company had a visit from some officers of the Grand Fleet.

These good sportsmen asked to see the worst, and saw it thoroughly one dark and stormy night.

“Give our respects to the Navy, sir,” said a sergeant who had been questioned about sentries and patrols.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

280

“If the Navy knew all this", the answer came promptly, “it would send its respects to you. I've seen more water to-night than I ever saw in the sea.”

And for the New Year a glow was added to the Mess by a card from the great battleship, bearing the same crest as the Regimental Badge, which thanked the officers of X Company for their hospitality (mostly ration rum in a six-foot square dug-out for five of us) and wished them as warm, comfortable, and cheery a time as was possible under the circumstances. That card is kept and more highly prized than ever this day of the full news of the Battle of Jutland.

On another occasion some of a visiting party consisting of a ship’s corporal and a few other Naval ratings, were in a front-line trench which was raided by the enemy and partly occupied. A machine-gun at the end of the trench had been knocked over and the gun's crew killed. The ship’s corporal and those that were with him righted the gun, brought it into action again and cleared the trench of the enemy. An official report of the gallant and effective work was received in the Grand Fleet some time afterwards, having passed through many channels to the War Office and Admiralty, and the chief petty officer and his companions received medals for conspicuous bravery in action ; later the ceremony of presentation was made by the Commander-in-Chief on the quarterdeck of the Iron Duke at Scapa.

We occasionally had short visits to the Fleet from military officers on leave from France, and one was

281

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

on board the St. Vincent during the Battle of Jutland on May 31, 1916, and viewed from the main-top the Division to which she belonged engage four German battleships of the Koenig class at a distance of about 10,000 yards. This officer, Major Claude Wallace, a G. 5.0.2, wrote a most interesting account of the action, which appeared in the National Review for the month of Junes 1918, entitled “Premonition in War”, for he was convinced before he left France to visit the Fleet that he would be present at a Naval action, and on return of the Fleet to Scapa before leaving for London and France he came on board the Iron Duke and took the first written dispatch from the Commander-in-Chief to the Admiralty, being the first person to go south after the Battle.

On Monday, June 5, came the tragedy of the sinking through mines of the Hampshire, with Lord Kitchener and his staff on board, who all lost their lives, together with Captain H. Savile and the officers and most of the ship's company. The Field-Marshal arrived at Scapa en route to Archangel for an official visit to Russia. He lunched on board the Iron Duke and met the Flag officers of the Fleet. During the day a north-easterly gale sprang up and I remember hearing the Commander-in-Chief suggest that he should stay the night on board, but Lord Kitchener said that he could not possibly afford the delay. The route in the sailing orders given to Captain Savile were changed that afternoon, and he was directed to proceed north on the western side of me Orkneys and Shetlands as there would be a certain amount of shelter from the Islands.

During lunch, Lord Jellicoe told the Field-Marshal

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

282

of this and the reason for the change—remarking that there would be time to settle down on board in comparatively smooth water before reaching the open sea. But by the time the Hampshire was outside the wind had veered towards the north-west, I well remember handing the revised orders to Captain Savile on board the Flagship.

Later, Lord Kitchener and party crossed from the Iron Duke in a drifter to the Hampshire, which was lying close. There was such a heavy sea running in Scapa Flow that ships’ boats could not be used, and the drifter was brought alongside, thus enabling the party to step on board from the starboard embrasure. Before he went on deck, I helped the Field-Marshal into his greatcoat and he remarked that he did not like getting in and out of small boats in a sea way and was glad to have a “drifter”. He was slightly lame, the result of an accident in India, but was able to step on board without difficulty as the gunwale was just level with the embrasure.

The Hampshire sailed with two destroyers as escort, and the first news of her was the return of the escort, as in the heavy seas they could not keep up and Captain Savile sent them back. While we were at dinner news came from the shore that the Hampshire had been seen from the shore to be in difficulties, and after two explosions she sank off the Brough of Birsay. All patrol destroyers were sent out at once, but they found no one alive ; many bodies were seen floating about, and twelve survivors only were able to get on shore on a raft. The bodies of Colonel Fitzgerald, Lord Kitchener's Private Secretary, and and Lieutenant MacPherson, of the Cameron Highlanders—who was

283

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

one of my next-door neighbours at lunch, attached to the Mission as an interpreter in Russian, were brought to Scapa in a destroyer. The survivors reported that rafts with men had been capsized and there were many bodies washed on shore.

This terrible disaster brought consternation and sorrow to the whole Fleet. By this time it was known who was the distinguished passenger on board the Hampshire, although his presence had been a well-kept secret until he arrived at Scapa.

On June 14, the King paid a second visit to the Fleet and stayed the night on board the Iron Duke. His Majesty saw representatives from the different squadrons assembled on board the Flagship, and gave the following address :

Sir John Jellicoe,

Officers and Men of the Grand Fleet,

You have waited for nearly two years with most exemplary patience for the opportunity of meeting and engaging the enemy’s Fleet. I can well understand how trying has been this period and how great must have been the relief when you knew on May 31 that the enemy had been sighted.

Unfavourable weather conditions and approaching darkness prevented that complete result which you all expected, but you did all that was possible in the circumstances. You drove the enemy into his harbours and inflicted on him very severe losses, and you added another page to the glorious traditions of the British Navy. You could not do more, and for your splendid work I thank you.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

284

After the Battle of Jutland, there were many terrible cases of burns from cordite fires in secondary batteries of ships. Among the casualties of this nature there was in one of the Hospital Ships at Cromarty—where cases not well enough to travel to southern hospitals were under treatment —a petty officer from the Malaya, so burnt that only his eyes, mouth and nostrils were visible out of the cotton wool and picric acid dressings.

Lady Jellicoe, who had taken Tarbat House near by, was constant in visiting the sick, had a talk to the poor fellow and mentioned that she had christened the Valiant —sister ship to the Malaya —quite early in the War at the Fairfield works, and had presented the ship with a silver bugle, which was used for the first time just before action at the Battle of Jutland — remarking on the fact that the Valiant had practically no casualties. The Malaya, next to the Valiant in action, suffered considerably, and the patient mumbled through his dressings that he wished that she had given a silver bugle to the Malaya.

The High Sea Fleet came out of harbour again on August 19, and the Grand Fleet went to sea on receipt of a telegram from the Admiralty, but returned after a few hours. A large number of submarines had been reported while the Grand Fleet had been going south, and a torpedo passed just astern of the Iron Duke. One of the escorting destroyers and also the Nottingham and Falmouth —light cruisers—were sunk by torpedoes the next day. On this occasion the enemy used many Zeppelins for scouting—invariably out of range of our guns. This operation on the part of the enemy was a largely organized submarine trap, and the High Sea Fleet was the bait to entice the Grand Fleet to possible disaster.

285

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

Early in November, 1916, Sir John Jellicoe attended a Conference at the Admiralty, chiefly to discuss the growing submarine menace, and at the end of the month was offered the post of First Sea Lord, which he accepted, although he relinquished command of the Grand Fleet with the greatest regret. He was, in this, only doing what was considered best for the Services — as he informed Mr. Balfour, the First Lord, who was succeeded by Sir Edward Carson on a change of Government. Admiral Sir David Beatty took over command of the Grand Fleet, and Vice-Admiral Sir Charles Madden was appointed Second-in-Command.

It may not be out of place to repeat Sir John Jellicoe's address on leaving the Grand Fleet.

November 28, 1916.

In bidding farewell to the Flag Officers, Captains, Officers and Men of the Fleet which it has been my privilege to command since the commencement of the War, I desire to express my warmest thanks to all ranks for their loyal support during a period which I know must have tried their patience to the breaking point.

The disappointment which has so constantly attended the southern movements of the Fleet, might w T ell have resulted in a tendency to staleness and a feeling that the strenuous efforts made tomaintain the highest state of efficiency were unavailing if the opportunities for testing the result were so seldom provided by our enemy.

But this is far from being the case. lam proud to be able to say with absolute confidence that the spirit of keenness and enthusiasm has consistently

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

286

grown, and I am convinced that the Fleet gains in efficiency from day to day. We have benefited by experience and we have turned that experience to good account.

Whilst leaving the Fleet with feelings of the deepest regret, I do so with the knowledge that officers and men are imbued with that spirit which has carried their forefathers to victory throughout all ages whenever and wherever they have met the enemies of their country; and whilst giving our present foe full credit for high efficiency, I am perfectly confident that in the Grand Fleet they will meet more than their match, ship for ship in all classes, and that the result will never be for one moment in doubt.

May your arduous work be crowned with a glorious victory resulting in a just and lasting peace.

This was addressed to the Flag-Officers, Commodores, Captains, officers and men of the Grand Fleet.

Captain F. C. Dreyer, who had been Flag-Captain in the Iron Duke, and I accompanied Sir John Jellicoe to the Admiralty. Captain Dreyer became assistant to Rear-Admiral A. L. Duff (the head of the reorganized Anti-Submarine Division), and later Director of Naval Ordnance, when he was instrumental in the production of a new and most effective armour-piercing shell of greater efficiency than any used previously. I became the junior Naval Assistant to the First Sea Lord, as at that time there was no appointment as Secretary to a Sea Lord —for a Sea Lord was only allowed Naval Assistants. Many changes in the Staff

287

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

organization were made under the First Lord, Sir E. Carson, in conjunction with the First Sea Lord, and later during the tenure of the office by Sir Eric Geddes, who succeeded Sir Edward Carson in May, 1917, having been first appointed as Comptroller, with the honorary rank of Vice-Admiral.

The work of the Anti-Submarine Division increased daily and the great developments made in offensive measures—such as increasing the supply of depth charges, mines, the hydrophone for locating submarines and shells for howitzer guns which exploded under water. Patrols of aero- and seaplanes and airships were instituted and were found of great service, the scheme of "Decoy Ships” was largely developed, and there were many eminently successful cases of the destruction of enemy submarines.

The tales of the work of the “Q” ships have already filled large volumes, and the magnificent record of pluck and endurance is unsurpassed in the history of marine warfare. The development of anti-submarine craft and the various offensive weapons, in spite of immense efforts to hasten the work, took much longer and it was some months before the results necessary for saving the allied cause became effective. But the menace might be said to have been mastered by the end of 1917.

In April, 1917, the United States of America entered the War, and the first assistance in the shape of six destroyers came across early in May. They were stationed at Queenstown for work off the south-west coast of Ireland. For the first month each destroyer had a British officer of experience in the special work, attached, and after that period the Admiral command-

Breaking the Monoton^^s

[By kind permission of Tie Bystander “Hullol fertrS T B T tcstAdmiral (Jdifcoe) foursome.” ’ a L°°ks as though we’ll soon be able to get a

The Naval Mission to India and rnr Dominions on Poard H.M.S. New Zealand, 1919-1920

Commander Commander Paymaster Surgeon- Flag-Lieutenant H. R. bawhridge, H. M. Ramsay, Lieutenant-Commander Commander L. V. Morgan Anti-Submarine Officer War Staff C. K. Lloyd, J. A. L. Campbell Secretary to Chief of Staff'. Captain Q. E. Leggett Commodore Admiral Viscount Paymaster-Captain Commanding F. C. Dreycr, Jellieoe, in Charge H. H. Share H.M.S. New Zealand Chief of Staff of Mission Secretary*

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

290

ing at Queenstown, Sir Lewis Bayly, reported that the new-comers had shown themselves to be efficient in every way to carry out the work themselves. They were very keen and apt pupils.

After their first success in sinking an enemy submarine, the U.S. officer in command of the destroyers reported by wireless in cypher that he had sunk one and then gave the position by latitude and longitude—but added “Where am I?” This was not understood and the Admiral informed the U.S. Senior Naval Officer, who lived at Admiralty House, Queenstown. He remarked that it was all right and that the C.O. of the successful destroyer only wanted to know whether he wasn’t “top of the class !”

The Convoy System which could not be brought fully into being until a sufficient number of fast escorting vessels were available for the protection of vessels in that submarine zone, was soon very largely developed under Rear-Admiral Alexander Duff. The entry of the United States into the War gave us a large number of warships which could be used as escorts for the convoys from the ports of assembly to the submarine zone.

Vice-Admiral W. S. Sims, of the United States Navy, arrived in England in March, 1917, as the Senior Naval Officer of the U.S. Naval Forces, and immediately put the Naval situation before the President and the U.S. authorities, as the grave state of affairs was not known, and a large building programme of various anti-submarine craft was at once commenced.

United States Naval Officers and French Naval Officers worked in some departments of the Admiralty and Admiral Sims was daily at the meetings of the

a

291

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

Naval Board, so that close co-operation was assured. He was attended by a personal Staff-Officer —Commander Babcock, of the U.S. Navy.

Under Sir Eric Geddes, as First Lord, many new departments were formed ; numbers of civilians were brought in from outside, some eminent in their different professions, but it was long before any practical result was gained. In fact, at one time, production which it was hoped to accelerate, was much slower than it had been before the wholesale reorganization. This took up a great deal of Lord Jellicoe’s time but he showed marvellous ability in facing the new questions which continually arose. Often at his busiest time — and it was not easy to find any period of the twentyfour hours when he was not busy—he would be summoned to meetings of the War Cabinet, and was not infrequently kept waiting while such matters as the strength of beer, or whether racing should be allowed, were discussed.

Before going to the Admiralty he had been deeply concerned with the submarine menace, soon to increase with terrific rapidity. On becoming First Sea Lord, fully alive to the desperate straits in which the country might be placed, he threw himself heart and soul into schemes and organizations. These took time to become effective but in the end prevailed, and the peril diminished. There were many dark days of anxiety, but this only increased his amazing energy and activity. His fertile brain and ingenuity helped and encouraged those who were devoting their whole time to antisubmarine work.

In May and November, 1917, Lord Jellicoe paid visits to Paris for Conferences at the Quai d’Orsay and

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

292

at the Ministry of Marine, some of which were attended by the British Prime Minister and the First Lord and other members of the War Cabinet. At the Conference at the Quai d’Orsay after a stirring address by M. Ribot, the Premier, the representatives of all the Allies responded on behalf of their respective countries that everything would be done to prosecute the War to the utmost, except the Russian representatives who were in a pathetic condition, and unable to give any undertaking, owing to the Revolution. The representatives were called on by the Premier, alphabetically.

During the short visit to Paris in May for a Conference at the Ministry of Marine, a French Naval officer, Commander Zede, was attached to Lord Jellicoe by the Minister of Marine. He was a nephew of the celebrated M. Gustave Zede, who was responsible for the French submarine which was named after him — and other nations had followed suit in the construction of that class of boat.

When the officer was presented, the First Sea Lord received him in his usual charming way, but remarked to the amusement of those near that he wished the uncle had never been born.

When the conferences were over, some French officers took me to the Comedie Fran£aise to see a new play L’Elevation, by Henri Bernstein. During an entracte my hosts showed me over the theatre, and in one of the dressing-rooms introduced me to M. de Feraudy, the celebrated actor, who talked of its many old associations.

In former days the loges or dressing-rooms of the actors and actresses had fine old furniture and fittings. That used by the great Madame Rachel and other celebrated artistes in past years was

293

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

kept as formerly and contained priceless pieces of china treasured with care—but still in use by the successors of to-day. The Green Room was a fine drawing-room full of historic mementos of the past, many of Sarah Bernhardt and other French stage notabilities. The actors and actresses were sitting round waiting for their calls. On the stage, the furniture was all genuinely old and everything was labelled with the date and period and names of the plays for which it was used. The scene set was an old library—some of the books of great value with wonderful bindings, all marked inside for certain plays, as were a fine old clock and ornaments. The organization of the property-master was perfect. The club used before the curtain is raised, is of great age—a heavy piece of wood shaped like the club of the Giant in children’s picture-books, and studied with brass-headed nails. It stood in a large wooden cup. The two thumps, followed by three, before the lever du rideau are familiar in most French theatres.

On Christmas Eve, Admiral Jellicoe received a note from the First Lord saying that it had been decided to relieve him, and that Admiral Sir Rosslyn Wemyss, 1 the Deputy First Sea Lord, would replace him.

In the afternoon of that day at Admiralty House, a silver model of the Iron Duke, subscribed for by the officers and men who had served in the Flagship during her husband's command, was presented to Lady Jellicoe, and all those in London were present.

During my time at the Admiralty, among the visitors was the Russian Admiral Kolchak who, after the mutiny in his squadron, had escaped. The mutineers had demanded the sword he was wearing, which, incidentally, had been given him by the Emperor. Rather than comply with this demand, he threw it overboard before he left his Flagship, but it was heard later that it was brought up by divers. He was wearing another, also the gift of the Tsar, when he came to the Admiralty. The object of his visit was to be allowed

1 Admiral of the Fleet Lord Wester Wemyss.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

294

to join the British Navy in any capacity, even as an able seaman if it were allowed. Eventually, he went to Siberia via Canada, had command of a force against the Bolshevists, was captured through treachery and assassinated. Two Russian Naval officers —Lieutenants Bourtoline and Fedotoff, who had been attached to the Russian Embassy in London, joined his force, but were able to escape to China where disaster overtook them. They dined with me one night before the Revolution at the Naval and Military Club, and I invited to meet them, Major-General Sir Charles Ryan, of the Australian R.A.M.C., who had been in medical charge of the Australian Forces at Gallipoli.

As a young medical student, Charles Ryan had gone to Turkey during the Russo-Turkish War attached to Lord Strangford’s Red Crescent hospitals organizations, and went through the Siege of Plevna in 1877. He had always worn his Turkish medal ribbons, which included one for Plevna. During a short armistice at Gallipoli, for the purpose of burying their dead, he went with a grave-digging party, and a Turkish officer, in charge of the enemy party, noticed the ribbons and asked him why he was wearing them, and on his replying that he had been with the Turkish Army in 1879, the officer gave him a warm embrace, called his party to attention and made them march past with the order "Salute a hero of Plevna”. A German senior officer appeared on the scene just after and put a stop to the proceedings.

I remained at the Admiralty for a few months, attached to the Inter-Allied Naval Council, which had recently been formed, and in 1918, paid visits to Paris for conferences—attending one with Vice-Admiral

295

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

Sims towards the end of March. We crossed in a dense fog in a destroyer from Folkestone —all steamers had been stopped—and Folkestone was crowded with officers who had been summoned from leave on account of the great German push in April, and passage was given to a large number.

A few minutes after arrival at our hotel in Paris, a heavy explosion was heard, followed in twenty minutes by another, an air-raid warning was given ; and the streets were cleared.

At ten o'clock we attended a conference at the Ministry of Marine, and while there a French officer appeared and said that pieces of shell had been picked up which must have come from a large gun a great distance off. We were informed that the shell had gone through the roof of the Gare du Nord, killing a number of persons on the platforms, just half an hour after the arrival of our train. This was the first time that the German “Big Bertha” had been fired into Paris ; and a few days after many were killed while in a church —St. Gervais—on Good Friday, through one of these shells demolishing the roof.

We left Paris that night, and early the next morning, near Amiens, were roused by a huge explosion which made the train rock. This was caused by a bomb from aircraft which had fallen close to the train, but on the other side of an embankment. We heard after, that every train seen north of Paris was chased by “Gothas” —one had another try at our train near Etaples, but that bomb also fell on a sand-hill. The train stopped under some trees and we all climbed up a bank and saw French aircraft engage the Gothas and drive them off. Some had dropped bombs on

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

296

Boulogne that morning. Whilst we watched the engagement I heard Admiral Sims say “Well, this is bully", and we agreed. He was much impressed with a notice on the platform at Staples station, and wrote it down :

A wise old owl sat in an oak,

The more he heard the less he spoke.

The more he spoke the less he heard,

Soldiers should imitate this wise old Bird 1

During these visits to France one always met Admiral de Bon, the Chief of Staff to the Ministry of Marine, whose great work and co-operation will ever be remembered. He died soon after the War, having refused to undergo an operation which might have lengthened his life —but stuck to his very onerous post to the end.

Afterwards, I was for a few months in the Transport Department at Southampton until the Armistice, when I happened to be in London, going to a small flat at Buckingham Gate which my wife and I had taken early in 1918. I had had the good fortune to marry early in the year—my wife being the daughter of Rear-Admiral Walter B. Bridges, who had retired years before and settled in Australia. She had volunteered with her car for work in the Y.M.C.A., and afterwards in Canteens at Havre ; and I had met her often before in Australia.

On November n, directly the maroons were heard, we went out and stood at the gates of Buckingham Palace, where on our arrival there were not a dozen people. Then red draperies were brought out and hung over the central balcony—and as if by magic the whole of the Mall and approaches were soon

297

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

packed with thousands of people —war-workers of all description; crowded lorries and cabs, etc., a dense gathering. Many took up positions on the back of the Queen Victoria Memorial; troops and bands arrived and their Majesties appeared on the balcony—the Queen holding a small Union Jack. Deafening cheering went on continually ; people sang the National Anthem and everyone was filled with joy. The crowd packed tighter and tighter and it was a long time dispersing. It was hard to realize that the War was at an end.

After lunch, I walked down Piccadilly with a friend and the excitement was intense. Outside the Piccadilly Restaurant among the people coming out was a robust female with a Union Jack draped round her. I was in uniform and before I could realize what was happening, she planted a heavy kiss on my cheek exclaiming : "Oh, you dear old thing !”

The next day I saw their Majesties attend the Thanksgiving Service at St. Paul’s Cathedral.

298

CHAPTER VI

1919 1920

Naval Mission to India and Dominions

AFTER the Armistice, Lord Jellicoe was deputed L to proceed to India, Australia, New Zealand and Canada, to advise the authorities in the light of the experience of the War whether adopted or contemplated schemes of naval organization required reconsideration either to meet local requirements, or to ensure the greatest possible homogeneity and co-oper-ation between all the Naval Forces of the Empire, and, if requested, to assist the various Governments in drawing up a scheme for a more effective share in the Naval Defences of the Empire.

The pages which follow contain details of a lighter nature than the serious side of the Mission, on which it had not been possible to enlarge as the main portions of the voluminous reports and recommendations eventually presented to the respective Governors-General of India, the Commonwealth of Australia, the Dominions of New Zealand, and finally Canada were of a confidential nature, 1 but the work of the Mission occupied the full time of its distinguished head and the whole of the staff.

Before leaving England, the collection and collation

1 The Union of South Africa was not visited.

299

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

of papers bearing on the varied conditions of the Naval Defence of the Empire and the problem of the Pacific entailed much concentrated work and examination, and there was barely time to get together all that was required in the few weeks after the Mission had been decided on to ensure due consideration of essential questions beforehand.

Our periods at sea were fully taken up by the study of these so that a system could be prepared on which to start inquiries and confer with the local authorities on arrival at the particular part of the Empire next to be visited.

The battle-cruiser New Zealand (Captain Oliver P. Leggett) was selected as the Flagship, and he and his staff left Portsmouth in her on February 21, 1919, passing the Iron Duke at Spithead when the Admiral made a signal to his old Flagship. Lady Jellicoe accompanied Lord Jellicoe by special permission of the Admiralty.

Commodore F. C. Dreyer, who had been FlagCaptain in the Iron Duke, was Chief of Staff, and Captain O. P. Leggett, who had been Master of the Fleet and Navigating Officer of the Iron Duke ; and it was my privilege to be again secretary to my old Chief.

Commander T. P. Calvert, an expert submarine officer, was the Executive Officer ; he had also been in the Iron Duke. Lieutenant L. V. Morgan, the FlagLieutenant to Sir Roger Keyes of the Dover Command, came in the same capacity, and other officers on the Staff were Commander B. H. Ramsay, who gave up command of the Broke of the Dover Patrol as FlagCommander, Commander H. R. Sawbridge, AntiSubmarine Officer, Lieut.-Commander R. H. de Salis,

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

300

Mining Officer, Paymaster-Lieut.-Commander C. K. Lloyd, late Iron Duke, was Secretary to the Chief of Staff, and in the Admiral's office Paymaster-Lieut.-Commander H. P. Hunter, Paymaster-Lieut. C. F. Laborde and R. F. Egerton, and E. D. Guinness, R.N.R., who had been in the Iron Duke. Wing-Commander E. D. M. Robertson, R.A.F., joined the Staff from England, on arrival in Western Australia.

We had very unpleasant weather in the Channel and Bay of Biscay, being battened down for a time. Many leaks appeared in scuttles and decks, for the ship had naturally not had a thorough refit during the War, but these were very promptly repaired at Gibraltar, where we arrived on the 24th to find bright sun and warm weather. Entertainments were given by the Governor, General Sir Horace Smith-Dorrien, and the Senior Naval Officer, Vice-Admiral H. S. Grant, and the place was decorated in honour of the occasion. Lord Jellicoe received a deputation from the Chamber of Commerce, and the Commanding Officers of ships present. In the short time at his disposal he was fully occupied and finally inspected the troop of Sea Scouts before leaving the next day for Port Said, where we arrived on March 3. Lord and Lady Jellicoe and some of the Staff proceeded to Cairo, and there I met my wife. She had been fortunate in getting a passage to Port Said in a transport. The Admiral had very kindly offered to take her from Egypt in the New Zealand to Australia as there was no likely steamer for some time. After the Armistice I had contemplated retiring in order to go with her to Australia as she had not seen her mother since her father’s death there in December, 1917. Lord and Lady Jellicoe re-embarked

301

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

in the New Zealand at Suez after a short stay at Cairo, and my wife joined the party.

On arrival at Bombay, an address of welcome was presented by the Municipal Corporation and the usual official calls were made. The Governor, Sir George Lloyd, and Lady Lloyd gave a large dinner-party at Malabar Point: and on March 15, Lord Jellicoe and party left Bombay for Delhi to confer with the Viceroy — Lord Chelmsford, and the Governor-General’s Council in regard to the Mission. Many meetings and discussions followed during our stay at the Viceregal Lodge. It was a pleasure to meet Lord Chelmsford, whom I had known well in Australia some years before when he was Governor of Queensland —Lady Chelmsford was in England on a short visit—and the Hon. Anne Thesiger (now Lady Inchiquin) did the honours for the Viceroy.

After a very hot and dusty journey it was a delightful change to dine in the Viceroy's garden, which was brilliantly illuminated, and on the night of arrival there was a party of over fifty civil and military officers and their wives. After dinner we sat round in groups in the garden with now and then a servant in brilliant Viceregal livery appearing silently from behind a bush—with cigars and iced drinks. The Indian evening was perfect.

Lord and Lady Jellicoe stayed at the Viceregal Lodge, and the remainder of the party were accommodated in tents in the compound, fitted up most luxuriously.

In spare time during our stay, visits were paid to the Legislative Council, the old Fort, Kutab Minar, and other points of interest —also the foundations and what could be seen of “New Delhi” in construction.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

353

After a stay of five days, Lady Jellicoe went to Dehra Dun for a rest, for she had recovered quite recently from a grave illness. Lord Jellicoe and the remainder of the party visited Agra, Cawnpore, and Lucknow before returning to Bombay. At Agra, the Taj Mahal by day made a tremendous impression, quite surpassing all expectation, and on a second visit at sunset we met General Dunsterville (of Dunster Force renown and Stalky & Co. fame) who was in command at Agra. He told us that he never missed a day without going to the Taj.

From Agra we had a most interesting visit to Fatephur Sikri, the sacred old tombs of Mogul Emperors, and arrived at Cawnpore early the next day, Sunday, attending morning parade service at All Souls, the Mutiny Memorial church, direct from the train. A large number of British troops filled both sides of the main aisle —all with rifles, and ball cartridges in their pouches—a custom which had survived since the great Mutiny. After the service, the Chaplain took us round the church, and in the sanctuary were tablets with the names of officers and families who had been killed by the mutineers. The first two read by Lord Jellicoe and my wife, standing together, were of Lieut. F. G. Jellicoe (Lord Jellicoe’s uncle), his wife and children, and Lieut. O. S. Bridges, my wife’s uncle, both of the 53rd Native Infantry. A strange and quite unexpected coincidence, though of course both knew that their uncles had been victims of the Mutiny. The tables recorded that more than a thousand Christian people were killed or died between June 6 and July 15, 1857.

We spent the day, when not sight-seeing, with the Commissioner, Mr. Stiffe. In the cool of the day we

303

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

visited the old cantonments and the beautiful Memorial over the well into which so many bodies were thrown. Lucknow was visited the next day, full of memories of Mutiny times, and the heroic defence of the Residency, with the flag ever flying over the ruins.

We left for Bombay in the evening. General Sir Arthur and Lady Scott entertained us at lunch, for the Lieut.-Governor of the United Provinces —Sir Harcourt Butler —was away, but Government House had been at our disposal for the day, a much appreciated attention.

At Bombay the work of the Mission was continued and conferences and inquiries of all kinds were held on shore and afloat by the Admiral and Staff. The Naval Commander-in-Chief, Vice-Admiral Ernest Gaunt, 1 and Mrs. Gaunt entertained us at Admiralty House, and Lady Jellicoe and my wife stayed there.

Lord Jellicoe then paid a visit to Karachi in the New Zealand. On the return passage to Bombay a message was received that he had been made an Admiral of the Fleet, and the Union Jack was broken at the main on April 3. Many telegrams of congratulation were received, including a much-priced one from the Grand Fleet. There was some trouble anticipated at Bombay on account of rioting which had been started by Ghandi, the leader of the "passive resistance” party, and at the request of the Governor landing parties from the ship were kept in readiness. But the expected demonstrations did not fructify, and beyond the derailing of a tramcar little took place. About this time news of serious disturbances at Amritsar and Lahore was received, of which much was heard later. Dinners were given by the Byculla and Yacht and

1 Now Admiral Sir Ernest Gaunt.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

304

Orient Clubs, and the officers of the Royal Indian Marine, and there were many other entertainments to the officers and men.

On April 15 the Mission left for Simla to confer finally with the Viceroy and Council and to complete and hand the report of the Mission to the Viceroy. At Gwalior we stayed the night with the Maharajah Scindhia, who had arranged some tiger-shooting for Lord Jellicoe. He and most of the party remained at the Jaibilas Palace, Gwalior, for some days, but Brigadier-General S. S. Loch, R.E., who had been attached to the Mission by the Government of India, and I, left for Simla the next day to make arrangements for the Mission and the printing of the Report by the Government printers.

The Maharajah gave a dinner on the roof of the palace which was a delightful entertainment —there was an excellent band —and all the arrangements perfect. He was a most charming host. Some of us were accommodated in the Guest House of the palace. I was told by a British officer that the Princes were sometimes imposed on by an undesirable type of white guest invited possibly without much discrimination — and the lavish hospitality is sometimes abused. It was on this account that the following printed notice was exhibited for the information of guests.

Please note and help the management

Guests requiring carriages will kindly let the Daffodar know an hour before they are wanted.

When the house is full, guests will oblige by going out in parties, two in a victoria with a single horse, and four in a landau with a pair.

305

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

The butier has charge of the dining-room and his duty is solely to look to the requirements of the table. He should not be expected to carry out any other orders.

All requests and complaints must be made in writing in a book kept for the purpose in the office.

At Delhi station we found the place surrounded by troops, and a great hubbub going on in the streets. We had been warned to have revolvers with us in case of an attack being made on the train and slept with them under our pillows, but nothing happened and we arrived at Simla on Easter Day, April 20.

My wife had left Bombay some days before to stay with a friend at Simla, and we went to the Viceregal Lodge when Lord Jellicoe and the party arrived, after four days tiger-shooting in Gwalior. They had varied successes, the total bag being six.

On the morning that General Loch and I left Gwalior the shooting-party was delayed by sand storms, and information as to where tigers would be found did not come until late. The General remarked to the Maharajah that if he had wireless he could get information quickly—Scindhia laughed and said : “Ha, I would like it if you would let me,” and the General then remembered native Princes were not permitted to have any wireless communications, and there was much amusement.

While at Simla, the report of the Mission was printed by the Government Press and presented to the Viceroy. During our short stay there were many entertainments and dinners and a Gymkhana—and we had plenty to do in our spare time. As at Delhi, nothing could have exceeded the great kindness and hospitality of Lord Chelmsford —and it was a real

Vice-Regal Lodge, Simla. State Howdah in which the Viceroy Lord Hardinge, who was accompanied bv Lady Harding seriously by a bomb thrown during a procession in Delhi in 1912. ' y

as 6

Tulagi, Solomon Islands. War Canoe presented to Lord Jcilicoc by the Natives L ' >J

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

308

regret to leave the Viceregal Lodge. On the return journey to Bombay we stopped at Gwalior and were taken to breakfast at the Maharajah's Palace, a pleasant break to a dusty hot journey—and there we saw Scindhia’s two children George and Mary, a very attractive tiny couple.

We left Bombay on April 30, embarking the Naval Commander-in-Chief and Mrs. Gaunt for passage to Colombo, as he was temporarily without a Flagship. After coaling there, we left for Australia on May 5.

In a few days we crossed the line, and a day was given up to the elaborate carrying out of usual ceremonies as a very large number of officers and men on board had never been initiated—and it was the first time that an Admiral of the Fleet flying his flag had ever crossed the Equator.

Crossing the Line in H.M. Ship New Zealand

May 7, 1919

LETTER FROM KING NEPTUNE

My Noble Lord and Admiral of the Fleet,

Fresh from your triumph of the Huns' defeat.

It pleased our royal heart to hear the news

Concerning you, the ship, the Empire Cruise

And now your Jack that’s bent upon the main

A sight we’ve seldom seen in all our reign.

Maybe our memory is sadly slow

For Pelman holds no courses down below.

Yet can we ne’er recall in days of yore

That flag thus flying o’er our Line before.

Then Welcome ! Victor of a fiendish foe.

To climes more temperate than was Scapa Flow

The dullness of that foggy treeless part

Evoked the deepest pity in our heart.

Though news of Neptune then you’d none perhaps

I frequently came up to see your scraps

And cheer you on to victory in the North

The while I froze — Zounds how I hate the Forth !

R

309

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

We’re charmed to hear you’re bringing in your ship

The Lady Jellicoe—throughout your trip

It is our Sovereign will inviolate

That she may find our realm in settled state.

Your Commodore —the mind behind the guns—

Whose brain has slain a multitude of Huns,

Your clever Staff, we welcome to our realm

"Youth on the thwarts and wisdom at the Helm”

A motto this to guide you on your way.

It's rather good—we pinched it out of Gray.

And now. My Lord, as we shall see you later,

Farewell, Yours, Neptune Rex et Imperator.

The Equator,

May 7, 1919.

To :

THE VISCOUNTESS JELLICOE OF SCAPA

GREETING !

Fair Lady from that Land of Showers

Whose Empire's half as big as ours

How sweet the thought of meeting !

How doubly sweet to hear you'll stay

A year where Neptune holds his sway —

With Him we send you greeting !

Though every ship I know by name

And never two are quite the same

In spite of all their sameness

Yet when I board each one I find

So much of just the same old kind

Such visits tend to tameness.

But now to find we are to meet

A British Admiral of the Fleet

We’re all anticipation !

Excitement then grows doubly rife—

We hear we’ll meet his charming wife

And live in expectation !

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

310

Such luck seems rarest—yet more rare

Is made by meeting Mistress Share

Once more on our Equator.

For now some dozen times she’s been

Across the Line we hold as Queen

Of Neptune Imperator.

The best of friends, the best of news !

Our wishes for a perfect cruise.

If happier they’ll make you.

May Joy and Charm and Beauty roam

Beside you till you reach your home

And never then forsake you.

( Signed) Amphitrite.

NEPTUNE’S SPEECH

My gallant Admiral, Captain, Crew,

Our pleasure’s great at seeing you

Once more on our Equator.

Old friends we notice by the score.

But some we’ve never met before,

• • - ... They’ll be presented later.

(To the Admiral)

A British Admiral of the Fleet's

A subject whom one seldom meets,

Sir, our congratulations !

Delighted too were we to know

We’d meet the Lady Jellicoe,

To whom —felicitations !

(Pinning Order on Admiral)

This order on you we bestow

An “Old sea dog” henceforth you go

With wishes of the best, Sir.

(To Commodore)

And Commodore, the gunner’s friend

This “Veteran Novice Star” append

We on your ample chest, Sir.

311

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

{To Captain)

The honoured “Equitorial Star”,

To which we’ve added half a bar.

Friend Captain you may wear, Sir.

{To Secretary)

And then the Equinoctial Cross

A talisman ensuring joss

Friend Share, Sir, is your share, Sir.

Amphitrite decorates Lady Jellicoe and Mrs. Share.

{To the Court in General )

On this same spot, as you may know,

We held a court some years ago,

Before the days of Scapa Flow,

That bleak and barren harbour.

We’ve heard about the Firth of Forth ;

And all your gallant deeds up North

Were told us by our Barber.

Though seldom ’tis we have a moan,

To one complaint we’re forced to own

Against the Royal Navy.

Throughout those awful years of war

Too many submarines by far

You sent down to our Davy

Those U Boats’ Crews we well could spare

They're far from popular down there ; ( pointing)

Our realm became disjointed.

And then we’d like to add a word

About that nonsense so absurd

Pointless yet fourteen pointed.

There is a “Freedom of the Seas”,

But Wilson does not hold the keys

To open or to lock it.

That Freedom’s found here on our Line

The keys as well—for they are mine !

I have them in my pocket

And this suggests the treat in store

For those we’ve never met before

We’ll have them separated

Before Ourself and Amphitrite

According to the ancient rite

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

312

They’ll be initiated

And if successfully they cope

With order of the Bath and Soap

We’ll have them decorated.

Then Surgeon, Barber, Police, stand by

And order every novice nigh

In order precedented

And one by one by rule of rank

To Surgeon, Barber and to Tank

They now shall be presented.

ADMIRAL’S REPLY

Your Majesty, we are as pleased as may be

With our orders, your speech, and your letter

It’s a pleasure to tell that you’re looking so well

For I’ve seldom seen you looking better.

Her Majesty sweet I’m delighted to greet

Sire, How could you manage without her ?

When I last met your queen she was terribly lean

I’m happy to see that she’s stouter.

My wife, Sir, and I would have wished to reply

To your kindness in far greater detail

But time it runs short I’m detaining the Court

So your bounty I've no time to retail

But this I must say in a very brief way

'Twas through love of your Sea and of you. Sir,

That we vanquished the Hun in the way we have done

And we’re telling the Empire right through. Sir.

That safe we shall be while we stick to the Sea

And we’ll ne’er have a cause to regret it

If Neptune's our friend, we shall win in the end

And I pray we may never forget it.

Soon after this we sighted the Cocos Islands, and on North Keeling Island saw all that was left of the German light cruiser Emden, the celebrated raider that ran ashore after the engagement with the Sydney in 1914.

The New Zealand stayed a short time off the islands

313

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN GROSS

and many of the Eastern Telegraph Company’s staff sailed off in small yachts—and returned with cigarettes and provisions from the ship. They had seen no one from the outside for a year or more and much appreciated this break in their monotonous life. As we neared Australia many messages of greeting were received and from various official and places, and we arrived at Albany, King George's Sound, Western Australia, on May 15.

Here Rear-Admiral Sir William Creswell, First Naval Member of the Commonwealth Naval Board, joined as the representative of the Commonwealth, and Captain S. Hyde, 1 R.A.N. was attached to the Staff. A short visit was paid to Perth where we were the guests of Sir William Ellison Macartney, the Governor of Western Australia—before returning to Albany. Port Lincoln in South Australia was visited for purposes connected with the Mission, before going on to Adelaide where the Governor, Sir Henry Galway, entertained the party at Government House. There was a march through the city by the ship’s company, and as in Western Australia, entertainments were given to the visitors by the Government, addresses received and public institutions visited.

Melbourne was reached on May 30, and Lord Jellicoe received a great ovation. Dinners and entertainments followed day by day. Offices were set apart at the Federal Parliament House, and most of us were fully occupied during the short stay with the work of the Mission. The Governor-General, Sir Ronald Munro Ferguson, now Lord Novar, was most hospitable and every assistance to Lord Jellicoe and the

1 Now Rear-Admiral.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

314

staff was rendered by all Government departments, Federal and Victorian. At Government House I met my wife's sister for the first time since her marriage to Geoffrey Luttrell —a nephew of Sir Ronald Munro Ferguson on whose staff he was serving. The New Zealand was open to visitors and many thousands went on board. On the third anniversary of the Battle of Jutland, May 31, came telegrams of congratulation from officers and men of the Atlantic and Home Fleets and many others.

Inspections were made of the Naval Depot at Williamstown, and the Flinders Naval Base. Conferences were held with the Acting Prime Minister of the Commonwealth, Mr. W. Watt, and the members of the Federal Cabinet. The staff had little time for taking advantage of the many entertainments offered, for our stay at Melbourne was necessarily limited — but nothing could exceed the kindness and hospitality received from everyone.

Lord Jellicoe paid a visit in the New Zealand to Tasmania, but as there had been much influenza at Melbourne, there was no communication with the shore at Hobart, and we were put into quarantine, since Tasmania was, at the time, in the fortunate position of being free of infection, though it did not escape from the scourge after. Inspections were made of the harbour and bays and channels, and we left after a short stay for Jervis Bay in New South Wales, for a visit to the Royal Australian Naval College, en route to Sydney. As at Melbourne, elaborate arrangements were made for the official landing, where Lord and Lady Jellicoe and some of the Staff were the guests of the Governor, the late Sir Walter Davidson.

364

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

We arrived on the Prince of Wales’ birthday, and Coronation Day, June 23, in gorgeous weather. Sydney Harbour was crowded with craft of all sorts and sizes ; the Admiral's Barge proceeded to the landing-place between lines of boats. We found a serious outbreak of influenza raging and it was considered advisable that official functions and entertainments should be largely curtailed. The Dockyard Ordnance Dept, and Batteries at the Heads were inspected and much information collected for the Mission Report before leaving for the Solomon Islands, New Britain, New Guinea and adjacent islands. H.M.S. Suva was equipped for the Mission as the draught of the New Zealand was too great for the various places to be visited. She had been a local steamer, taken up and employed on the Red Sea Patrol during the War.

Peace celebrations were held on June 30; they included a Thanksgiving Service on board the New Zealand attended by the Governor-General and the Lady Helen Munro Ferguson, and the Governor of New South Wales and Lady Davidson. Salutes of 101 guns were fired in conjunction with the Military; and at noon His Majesty’s ships were manned and three cheers given for the King and the “main brace” was spliced by His Majesty's command. The King’s health was toasted and drunk in Lord Jellicoe’s cabin by all the officers, who for the first time since the outbreak of War wore the ceremonial dress of cocked hats, frock-coats and epaulettes. In the evening there were searchlight displays and ships were illuminated.

On July 1, Lord and Lady Jellicoe and Staff left by train for Brisbane, where they were the guests of Sir Hamilton Gould Adams, the Governor of Queens-

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

316

land, and after some functions and an inspection of the Brisbane River, he and the Staff embarked on board the Suva, which had arrived at Pinkenbah, some way down the river. The First Member of the Australian Navy Board, Rear-Admiral E. P. Grant, 1 who had lately arrived from England, accompanied Lord Jellicoe on this visit to the Islands. Once on board the Suva the Admiral and Staff were fully occupied in considering the vast amount of information which had been collected in Australia, and on Pacific problems—and their freedom from short distractions enabled much “Mission” work to be done.

We arrived at Port Purvis, in the Solomon Islands, on July 10, and the Commissioner, Mr. Charles Workman, took the party the next day to Tulagi, where he resided. The escort was a large war canoe which the natives hoped would be accepted by Lord Jellicoe, but it was far too large to hoist on board the Suva and the gift had to be declined. The crew consisted of twentyfour natives, most of them fierce-looking head hunters, and convicted murderers, who had been allowed out of prison for the day, with four warders in charge. They much enjoyed the outing and paddled past at a great pace, occasionally giving vent to the most blood-curdling yells.

Lord Jellicoe was received on landing at Tulagi by a guard of honour of the Solomon Islands Native Constabulary, a fine-looking lot, and their ceremonial drill was amazingly good—quite up to the standard of the Brigade of Guards.

This was an interesting little place, with a good Residency on the summit of a hill and pleasant-looking bungalows round, and we met most of the British residents.

1 Now Admiral Sir Percy Grant

317

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

At Tulagi, a weekly news-sheet was published, and in one copy shown to me, was the following obituary notice :

“On (date) died through collapse of platform (name) aged ” The deceased was an alien man of colour who had been convicted of murder and hanged ; one could not imagine a more tactful announcement for his friends to read.

From Tulagi we visited other islands and harbours, and then Rabaul, New Britain, a former German possession now garrisoned by Australian troops with an Administrator, Brigadier-General G. T. Johnston, under the Mandate given to the Commonwealth.

Here we found the late German gunboat Komet, now H.M.A. yacht Una, and in her adjacent harbours and places were visited. There were two volcanoes in sight and much evidence of thermal activity. The German planters had been allowed to remain in possession of their estates and in regard to the natives, German laws were retained.

There had been one or two cases of attempts on the part of the planters to incite the natives against the new-comers but strict measures had been taken by the Administrator and everything was now peaceful. While on a motor drive in the country, we met a German settler in a smart dog-cart, and an Australian officer told me to notice what would happen. The dog-cart stopped at the side of the road and its owner stood to attention as we passed.

At a luncheon given by the Administrator, one of the officer’s wives told me much about the natives, and their difficulty with the English language. There appear to be few nouns in the native tongue, so that

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

318

everything had to be described. She said that to refer to a piano, for instance, a native would say : "Fight him teeth (the keys) belong-a him—bokkis (box) he cry.” Her boy had been given leave to see Lord Jellicoe land and came back much impressed. While at work after and ruminating on what he had seen he remarked to his mistress, apropos of the Admiral of the Fleet: "I s’pose he big fellah right up alongside of King” ; and then after a time referring to the orders and medal ribbons on Lord Jellicoe's tunic he said : "I s’pose King all over him front he carry his marks”, rightly thinking the King would have many more.

After Rabaul, we visited unnamed harbours and the Island of Samarai, where we were much welcomed, as we brought many bags of mails from Sydney—the first for months. Here, on July 19, we heard of the Peace celebrations in England, and the King’s health was toasted on board the Suva in the presence of many residents. Port Moresby, the capital of old British New Guinea, was the next place of call, and one could not help contrasting its appearance with that of Rabaul, due to German money and organization. We were told that there had been much spent in developing the country of New Guinea, whereas little had been ever available for building or developing the town, which had an almost derelict appearance. The LieutenantGovernor, Judge H. P. Murray, entertained the party and the residents gave a Ball.

The Papuans are of fine physique, the men with enormous heads of hair—while that of the women is short. We had a gathering of white residents on board the Suva one afternoon, and our guests included Miss

319

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

Beatrice Grimshaw —well-known as the authoress of thrilling stories of South Sea Islands life.

The following extract from a Melbourne newspaper gives an idea of the impression left on the native mind by the visit to Port Moresby ;

Port Moresby, the hub of Papua, was visited by Jellicoe on his recent tour of the North-West Pacific, and great was the surprise of Tommy Papua and his sister Lisi at not beholding a warrior about seven feet high. The little admiral, jumping about and banging a tennis-ball over the nets, was a big disappointment to the natives, who had gathered to see the “chief who smashed the war-canoes of Diameni (Germany) and made the crews eat earth”. But when Silent John appeared in uniform with his medals blazing on a superstructure of blue cloth, gold buttons and gold braid, the adoration of brown brother and sister was completely won. Said one old crinkly-skinned gentleman from Poreporena (Hannuabada), who had met Commodore Erskine (he who annexed the colony as British New Guinea in 1884), Sir Cyprian Bridge, Captain Bosanquet (senior officer present at the foundation of the colony in 1888) and Admiral Davis: “Truly mine eyes have looked upon a mighty man ; now I know why the Diameni failed. It is the magic of his eyes that made them fall down like beaten dogs before him.”

On July 22, Lord Jellicoe received a congratulatory message by telegraph on the signing of the Declaration of Peace from a number of officers and men who had served in the Grand Fleet.

Lord Jellicoe then visited the Torres Straits, quite familiar to myself as I had visited these parts on several occasions. The forts at Thursday Island were inspected, and we saw a fine race between many luggers of the Pearling Fleet at their headquarters.

On the return south, Cairns and Gladstone, in Queensland, were touched at, and at the latter place

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

269

he disembarked with most of the Staff and proceeded to Newcastle and Sydney. During the return passage, the Suva steamed inside the Great Barrier Reef—specially interesting to the writer, as he was on board the Pyramus with Lord Northcote, the GovernorGeneral in 1907, when she ran on “C” reef. The time passed very quickly as there was much work to collate and digest for the Australian Section of the Naval Mission, and at Sydney it was completed, printed, and placed in the hands of the Governor-General.

There were final receptions and dinners at Sydney in the last few days, and Lord Jellicoe went to Melbourne for a day to discuss his report with the Acting Prime Minister of the Commonwealth. A large afternoon reception was given on board the New Zealand, which was attended by 900 guests. An event of interest was the marriage, at St. James's Church, Sydney, of Surgeon-Lieut.-Commander H. C. Devas, of the New Zealand, to Miss Valerie Davenport, of Sydney.

On our last Sunday at Sydney, a special Service of Thanksgiving for the success of the work of the Royal Navy in defence of the Empire, was held at St. Andrew's Cathedral, conducted by the Archbishop of Sydney. The ship’s company of the New Zealand had a wonderful reception on marching through the streets.

After many farewells we left Sydney in the New Zealand for Wellington, on August 16, and as the ship proceeded down the harbour, she was followed by small craft —one with a band on board which played heroically until the heavy swell between the Heads put a stop to the proceedings and the instruments ceased playing one by one. The Government steamer Premier, with Lady Davidson, the wife of the Governor

370

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

of New South Wales, her two little daughters and my wife on board, held on for some time before returning to harbour.

In New Zealand, there was a repetition of the warm-hearted welcome we had experienced in Australia—from Lord Liverpool, the Governor-General, and every section of the community. Numbers of telegrams of welcome were received from many places on the arrival of Lord Jellicoe and the return of the ship, which had been presented by the people of New Zealand to the Navy. Before the War she had been sent on a visit to the Dominions.

Among many entertainments was a Ministerial Luncheon at the Parliament Buildings, Wellington—presided over by the late Mr. W. F. Massey, Prime Minister, followed by the usual speeches. There had been much said about the War and the Navy and Forces from the Dominions, and when it came to the turn of the Native Minister, Doctor, (now Sir Maui) Pomare, to speak, he said he also was proud to have British blood in his veins like the rest, for there was a family record that one of his ancestors had once absorbed a British missionary. A spontaneous touch of humour in public speaking by the representative of the Maori Race in the Cabinet, with the merit of truth.

The opening of Parliament by the Governor, was attended by Lord and Lady Jellicoe, and the Staff, and reference was made in the opening speech to the presence of the Admiral of the Fleet and the object of his visit.

Port Lyttelton was the next port of call, and the party proceeded to Christchurch, where offices had

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

322

been set apart for the Mission in the Government Buildings. Some of the Staff visited Akaroa Bay and other harbours in connection with the Mission work; daily work went on at the Government Buildings, and Lord Jellicoe and the Chief of Staff visited Timaru, Dunedin, and Port Chalmers in the south, and Omaru on the return journey.

Entertainments day and night filled any spare time that could be found, and officers and men were fully occupied. One interesting event was a meeting of the three Christchurch Trotting Clubs at Addington—a form of sport quite new to the visitors. During the meeting one horse made a then world’s record for the mile and a quarter.

On the Sunday spent at Christchurch, an interesting ceremony took place at the Cathedral, when Lord Jellicoe handed to the Bishop of Christchurch, Dr. Julius, for custody, a white ensign flown on board the New Zealand at the surrender of the German Fleet in November, 1918.

Queen Charlotte Sound and Picton were afterwards visited before returning to Wellington, and after that Auckland was the next port of call, with short stays at Napier and Gisborne ; as at Wellington, the ship was visited by tens of thousands of people. Lord Jellicoe inspected the Calliope dock, and at Takapuna unveiled a memorial to the late Lieutenant-Commander Sanders, V.C., D.5.0., R.N.R., who had commanded the Prize and other “Q” ships during the War with eminent distinction.

From Auckland, copies of the New Zealand report of the Mission were sent to the Governor-General and Prime Minister at Wellington.

323

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

A few days were spent at Rotorua, and the historic geysers and other thermal wonders were seen at Ohinemutu and Whakarewarewa. There were large gatherings of Maoris and Hakas and Poi dances, and it was a novel sight to see Lord Jellicoe robed in the mat of a Maori chief—club in hand —and Lady Jellicoe draped in a mat of rare Kiwi feathers.

The following came from Mr. Gavin Hamilton, Private Secretary to the Governor-General just before our departure from Wellington after staying at Government House :

This is the way we always go

His Ex and Viscountess Jellicoe

Next comes the Admiral of the Fleet

Who guides Her Ex to a centre seat

There if the Commodore happens to dine ( Dreyer)

Beside him Mrs. Bond will shine.

Immediately after comes Captain Share (Secretary)

Who with Hope Wood makes another pair.

Leggett then steps out to meet her (Flag-Captain)

And offers his arm to the graceful Rita.

Next comes Morgan M.V.O. (Flag-Lieutenant)

With the Odol smile we have come to know.

Followed by Bond with martial gait

With Westmacott just a wee bit late. (A.D.C.)

Then comes the Secretary bowed with age (Private Secty.)

With Garland who's reached the simmering stage. (A.D.C.)

Eric Milton then saunters along (A.D.C.)

Just wondering whether he heard the gong.

Last of all comes the Highland lad ( Sinclair Thomson, A.D.C.)

In a coat whose fit is distinctly bad.

We shall never have such times again,

And only wish you could all remain,

For to-day you’ll pass through the Wellington Heads

When the rest of the party will take to their beds.

There were staying at Government House, Wellington, the first night after our arrival, some charming

Guard of Honour of Native Constabulary. Tulagi, Solomon Islands, 1919 [Bj ' Auih ° r

272

Papuan Belles, Port Moresby, New Guinea

273

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

326

guests from Christchurch, Canterbury, who had been asked for the Naval festivities, and my neighbour at dinner told me that the girls of Wellington looked on them rather as interlopers and they were referred to as “Canterbury plains”. This was not by any means a justifiable criticism of the fair visitors.

Four days brought us to Suva, the capital of the Fiji Islands. The ship was met by native chiefs in large sailing canoes, and after anchoring, some thirty came on board and gave a ceremonious welcome and invitation to land in the Islands—only extended to “great chiefs” with offerings ofwhales’ teeth —“Tambui” in Fijian. It had been performed last in 1881, when the late Prince Edward, afterwards Duke of Clarence, and his brother the King, then Prince George, were Midshipmen on board the Bacchante. Here it was a great pleasure again to meet my old friend of eighteen years before. Ratu Pope Seniloli, a chief, and grandson of the old Fijian King Cakobau, who ceded the islands to Queen Victoria. I had seen him since this in Australia with a Fijian cricket team.

Lord and Lady Jellicoe were the guests of Sir Cecil Rodwell, the Governor and High Commissioner for the Pacific, who gave many entertainments during our stay. There were wonderful native dances, “MekiMekis”, and the Tagona or Kava drinking ceremony was observed in great detail —women presented numbers of mats after one dance —of all sises, and these made an enormous pile. Lord Jellicoe addressed a large gathering of hundreds of natives in gala attire of dyed grasses and coloured streamers of leaves, such magnificent specimens of humanity with gigantic heads

S

327

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

of hair, often with a gaudy hybiscus or canna flower stuck in the mass, and many with huge war clubs.

We heard that during the War and while the German ships Sharnhorst and Gneisenau were free in the Pacific under Admiral von Spee, rumours were received at Suva that the Islands would be raided or seized —the then Governor made a wireless signal to the Australian battle cruiser Australia en clair that “all was ready for her arrival" or something to that effect. The Australia was then nowhere near —but anyhow, to the relief of all, the German ships did not appear near Fiji.

From Suva, the New Zealand visited Levuka, the old capital in the Island of Ovalan, and then Apia— Samoa, which is administered by New Zealand. Here we had great native gatherings—and war dances, Sivas, entirely different from those at Fiji. There were some signs of the German occupation remaining, and a certain section of natives posed as being still proGerman, and they painted “Kaiser” moustaches on their faces when assembled for their war-dance—-this had been forbidden by the Administrator, Colonel R. W. Tate, and they were not allowed to take part. Others painted a beard to show their allegiance to King George V. We landed a battalion of seamen and marines for a march through the town, and this made a marked impression on the native mind.

Here the grave of Robert Louis Stevenson was visited. “Vailima”, his final residence, was used as the Government House.

On the way north, after four days at sea, we stopped at Christmas Island and here we embarked the manager of a copra company, a British subject, Mr. Tom English,

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

328

who had been left stranded there for fifteen months, with only two Tahitans as companions—one French and one native. He asked for a passage to Fanning Island, the Pacific Cable Station, where he hoped to be able to communicate with a certain Pere Rougier, the head of the company, but we never heard anything further after he and the other two individuals were landed at Fanning Island. Christmas Island had many cocoanut trees but no labour beyond the two Tahitans ; strange to say he had a dilapidated Ford car in which Lord and Lady Jellicoe had a tour through the plantation. English had served in the United States Navy or Army for many years, and was most interesting in many ways. He had lived alone, for his companions were not congenial ; he told me that he had only Dickens’s books to read, but had kept a diary and copious meteorological notes and records of his cocoanut trees. They had enough rice to eat, and with that and fish, kept themselves going ; but the life was telling on him and our arrival was an unexpected salvation. He was fitted out with clothes and dined at Lord Jellicoe's table and behaved as if it was his regular routine. He did not know that the War was over, for no craft had called there for fifteen months.

The next day we arrived at Fanning Island and were told of the damage done to the cables by a party from the German cruiser Nmnberg in 1914, but fortunately their efforts were not effectual in completely destroying cable communication. Fanning Island is a typical Atoll encircling a lagoon with the usual single entrance. A large party of residents, telegraph officials and others, were welcomed on board. We arrived at Honolulu, Oahu Island, three days after, and here I

376

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

found my wife who had arrived by mail steamer a short time before from Australia.

Some time was taken up with official calls and officers and men received boundless hospitality on all sides. Visits were made to Pearl Harbour and the U.S. Naval Establishments, and we saw much of RearAdmiral W. B. Fletcher, who commanded the Naval Station. The surf bathing at Waikiki was a great attraction, but for days after some suffered much from sun blisters and one officer was placed on the sick list in consequence. There was a public luncheon in a huge armoury, at which some 700 persons were present, the music being provided by a Hawaiian band and singers, who were remarkably good. Here, according to custom we were hung with “leis” —garlands of flowers —a pretty attention but rather disastrous to our white uniform tunics.

Among other entertainments was an afternoon dance given by Mrs. Madden, whose husband was a brother of Admiral Sir Charles Madden, commanding the Atlantic Fleet, Lord Jellicoe’s brother-in-law, and his Chief of Staff in the War. They had been residents of Honolulu for some years.

The Governor of the Sandwich Islands, Mr. Charles I. MacCarthy, gave a Ball in the Palace of the late King Kalakua, and a guard of honour was provided by an old Hawaiian Society, who wore copies of old robes and helmets made of feathers as worn in early days. We saw some of the originals which are now of great value, and carefully kept in glass cases.

An officer of the Admiral's office, • PaymasterLieutenant Reginald Egerton, was married at St. Andrew’s Cathedral to Miss Margaret Mcßean, of

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

330

Melbourne; Lord and Lady Jellicoe and many officers attended the wedding and reception after at the Alexander Young Hotel. He had previously received an appointment in the R.A.N. so he was left at Honolulu and returned to Australia with his bride.

There were many visits to the country by motor, and from the mountains at the back of the town one saw miles of pineapple plantations and most gorgeous views. My wife and I were taken by Mrs. F. N. Swanzy to one of her country residences in the mountains —with a wonderful garden kept by Japanese — and after the ship left the same delightful hostess entertained my wife at Honolulu until her steamer sailed for San Francisco. The private residences were quite delightful, some close to the sea with the Pacific waves lapping the low garden walls —others further inland, and all with beautiful gardens. A wealth of flowers everywhere—it really is a land of the hybiscus, where there are over 100 kinds, and these grow in the hedges alongside the roads.

Prohibition was strictly enforced on shore and the ship became increasingly popular as the days went on — for lying alongside the wharf, visitors could walk on board. We had a farewell afternoon-party of about 1,200 guests, and it was said that at a men’s buffet and smoking place between decks, the whole stock of sodawater in Honolulu was exhausted, and it was not taken neat. A warm afternoon for dancing may have been the reason!

The New Zealand left Honolulu for the Island of Hawaii after a week’s stay, and as we approached Hilo Bay we had a gorgeous view of Mauno Loa —the great volcano 13,000 feet high. A large party of officers and

331

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

men landed and were taken in cars to the crater of Kilauea, thirty-five miles away —through sugar plantations and bush, with wild flowers in abundance.

This is a huge crater —miles in circumference—and paths across the hard lava led to a lake of boiling lava, a seething mass occasionally spouting glowing masses of liquid lava—red hot ; which it was quite safe to approach and fascinating to watch. One had to avoid steam holes and places where the layer of cold lava was not thick, and at times through the holes the molten lava could be seen flowing away from the lake in subterranean passages. The place we walked over was submerged in boiling lava not long after our visit—when the eruption from Mauna Loa devastated large cultivated districts and settlements.

We lunched at Volcano House on a raised ground overlooking the vast crater ; and before embarking at Hilo, Lord Jellicoe received a small party of British residents.

We left for Esquimalt in Vancouver Island, British Columbia on November i, and anchored there on December 8. A telegram was received from the Prince of Wales at Ottawa, regretting that he could not meet Lord Jellicoe. His Royal Highness was at the end of his visit to Canada, and people spoke much of him later on as we journeyed on. In a shop in Ottawa, I heard him referred to as “Our Fairy Prince”, and he had certainly captivated everyone in the Dominion.

At Esquimalt, Admiral Sir Charles Kingsmill, Director of the Canadian Naval Service, joined the party; and Lord Jellicoe's programme, which he had arranged before arrival, was carried out after consultation with the authorities. There were welcomes

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

332

and functions everywhere, and it was difficult to combine them all with the work of the Mission.

On November 11 at Esquimalt, the first anniversary of the signing of the Armistice, two minutes' silence in remembrance of those that fell in the Great War was observed. Officers of the Staff, as in other parts, started to visit and report on ports and harbours it was not possible for Lord Jellicoe to visit personally, but he went in the New Zealand to Duncan Bay, between Vancouver Island and the mainland, and from there in the Canadian Government's yacht Stadacona through the Seymour Narrows to Port McNeill, and on his return proceeded in his Flagship to Vancouver City.

The rainy season in these parts kept up its reputation.

From Vancouver, the Chief of Staff and others in the Stadacona visited Prince Rupert Harbour, 500 miles to the north, and they eventually joined the party at Ottawa, which was the headquarters of the Mission for some six weeks.

At Victoria, British Columbia, and Vancouver, a large number of entertainments were given by clubs and societies. The latter city provided a large number of R.N.V.R. officers, who had commanded motorlaunches employed on anti-submarine work during the War. Lord Jellicoe decorated Lieutenant George Cassidy with the D.S.C., which had been awarded for his services in sinking an enemy submarine in the English Channel when in command of a motor-boat; and he dined with the Naval Officers’ Association and attended a Ball given by the members.

The New Zealand left Vancouver and proceeded south and through the Panama Canal to Colon, Jamaica/

333

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

Cuba and Key West, where Lord Jellicoe and Staff re-embarked on January 8, 1920.

On the C.P.R. journey east from Vancouver City, he and Lady Jellicoe stayed at Calgary and Regina and Winnipeg, and I went direct to Ottawa, where I found my wife, who had come from Honolulu and San Francisco.

Lady Jellicoe had received at Vancouver the sad news of the death of her mother, Lady Cayzer, in England, and decided to return from New York, as the children had been left in charge of her mother.

At Ottawa, we were twice the guests of the Gov-ernor-General and the Duchess of Devonshire at Rideau Hall, and spent a delightful Christmas there. Nothing could exceed the kindness and hospitality of their Excellencies, who were ideal Viceregal representatives and justly appreciated in the Dominion by all sections of the community.

The Canadian Government placed offices at the disposal of the Mission in one of the Government Buildings at Ottawa, and work commenced at once. In spare time there was much skating on the fine icerink at Government House, and on some days the thermometer was over 10° below zero —one day the temperature dropped to 20° below zero, but there was always sunshine and as a rule no wind.

Visits were paid to Toronto, Montreal, and Quebec, and at Ottawa daily conferences took place with the Minister of Marine and Naval Affairs, the Hon. Charles Ballantyne and Mr. Desbarats the Deputy Minister. Some of the Staff visited St. John, Halifax, and Sydney, Cape Breton, and the work of the Mission went on apace.

334

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

All over the Dominion there is a chain of Canadian Clubs, and here, as everywhere else on the tour, Lord Jellicoe's speeches were much in demand.

Before Christmas the Canadian Report of the Mission was in the hands of the Government printers, and on December 31a copy was handed to the GovernorGeneral ; and some of the party left Ottawa that night for New York. Lord Jellicoe left on New Year's Day, but Lady Jellicoe had been unwell for a few days and could not travel until the next day, and she and my wife —who had fractured her elbow by a fall when skating at Ottawa and had it encased in plaster of paris—embarked for England in the White Star SS. Adriatic on January 3.

It was some relief to think that the main work of the Mission had been completed and the Reports on India, Australia, New Zealand and Canada printed.

On looking back to varied events during the tour, it may not be out of place to note two speeches delivered at public dinners at different places.

At one, the speaker caused much amusement by referring to Lord Jellicoe's command during the War as “The High Sea Fleet” instead of “The Grand Fleet”. He corrected himself, but later on repeated his error, and as a climax in eulogizing the Naval Service, he remarked that the motto of the Navy was “Words not Deeds” —this he also corrected amidst much laughter, but almost immediately said the same again !

At another dinner, the gentleman to whom had been entrusted the toast of the principal guest, had been so impressed with his task that during the day he erred on the side of over-preparation, for when the

335

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

time came he appeared to have some difficulty in rising, but eventually stood grasping the back of his chair, and somewhat incoherently managed to announce that he rose to propose the toast of “Th’ admirable Jellicoe” and then subsided back into his chair. The toast was received with great acclamation.

The numerous speeches of Lord Jellicoe during the tour were remarkably received and always full of interest to the listeners, they were wise and restrained, and the Press leaders and comments showed a serious appreciation of the work for which he had been chosen.

A notable feature was the number of branches of the Navy League in India, Australia, New Zealand and Canada, most of them keen and prosperous.

At almost every place visited, there were invariably gatherings of Boy Scouts —inspected and addressed by the Admiral of the Fleet. Before leaving England, the Chief Scout, Lord Baden-Powell, had informed Lord Jellicoe that a message had been sent throughout the Empire of his visit, and this resulted in his meeting thousands who had joined the organization in all parts of the world.

On entering the United States, Lord Jellicoe was entertained by Mr. Charles Schwab in New York for two days, and before leaving for Washington, where he and the Staff were the guests of the United States Naval Department for a short time, he was given a dinner by the University Club, New York. There was an enormous gathering, presided over by Mr. Franklin Roosevelt, Assistant Secretary of the U.S. Navy, who made one of the best speeches heard during the tour, and Lord Jellicoe had a really remarkable ovation.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

336

At Washington, much was crowded into the time available. Dinners were given by Mr. Josephus Daniels, the Secretary of the U.S. Navy, and the British Charge d'Affaires, the Hon. Robert Lindsay 1 — Lord Grey, our Ambassador, had left for England a few days before. Visits to the Senate and House of Representatives were of great interest.

The President, Dr. Woodrow Wilson, was seriously ill at the time, and calls were made on Mr. Marshall, the Vice-President of the United States, and the Secretary of the Navy.

We found a crowd of camera-men in the Secretary’s room and Mr. Daniels invited Lord Jellicoe to be photographed, so they were posed with a huge globe of the world between them —the Staffs retiring to a discreet distance.

At the Senate, Lord Jellicoe was given a seat on the floor of the House as a special mark of honour, and introduced to many Senators —the proceedings being temporarily adjourned.

In the House of Representatives, the leader of the Majority Party, Mr. Mondell, rose and proposed that the House should show their appreciation of his presence, and he was given a remarkable reception and afterwards, at their request, the whole of the Members were presented individually, on the House rising.

Admiral Niblack, of the United States Navy, was attached during the stay and Lord Jellicoe was taken over the Naval Academy at Annapolis and the Navy Yard. For myself, it was a great pleasure to renew acquaintance with many old Naval friends whom I had

1 Now Sir Robert Lindsay.

337

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

met in Admiral Sperry’s Battle Squadron on its memorable visit to Australia twelve years before.

Our journey from Washington to Key West was of much interest—through the cotton-growing districts of Carolina, Georgia and Florida, and over the practically oversea railroad —the wonderful Key West Extension, built on embankments and concrete viaducts and steel bridges—over Keys or small coral islands, with the Gulf of Mexico on one side and on the other the Atlantic.

At Miami, we were joined by the Prime Minister of Canada, Sir Robert Borden, who had been in ill-health and was ordered a change. Lord Jellicoe had invited him to come on board the New Zealand as his guest.

Our programme had originally included South Africa, but this was cancelled by the Admiralty and Lord Jellicoe was directed to return to England from the West Indies.

The party which now included Sir Robert Borden, and Mr. J. W. Pugsley, Private Secretary, embarked on board the New Zealand lying some miles in the roadstead off Key West. The Flagship had come south from Vancouver, touching at San Diego and then through the Panama Canal, visiting Colon, Jamaica, and Cuba before our arrival. Rear-Admiral Becker, of the United States Navy, met us at Key West and provided a tug to take the party to the ship—there was a heavy swell running and some difficulty in getting on board. The baggage of the party, which numbered over 100 pieces, followed us from Ottawa during the night, and the ship left for Havana at once.

On arrival, visits were paid to the President of Cuba and the British Minister, the Hon. (now Sir) W. A.

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

338

Erskine, and many entertainments on shore and on board followed. There were signs of great prosperity, but the cost of living was almost prohibitive to visitors — enormous fortunes had been made through the high price of sugar, though this period was followed by a slump afterwards, and things became very different.

We touched at Port Royal, Jamaica, for an examination of the cordite on board by the local Ordnance Officer, and two days later brought us to Trinidad. The Eighth Light Cruiser Squadron, commanded by Rear-Admiral Sir Allan Everett, who had been Captain of the Fleet early in the War in the Iron Duke, with the Calcutta, flying his Flag, and Constance, met the New Zealand outside and escorted her into Port of Spain harbour.

Lord Jellicoe and some of the Staff were the guests of the Governor, Sir John Chancellor and Lady Chancellor, during the short visit. The gardens at Government House are most beautiful, and full of every kind of tropical flower. Gorgeous humming birds were a delight to see, and at night numbers of fireflies flitted about.

A large dinner was given by the Union Club, at which excellent speeches were made by the Governor, Lord Jellicoe and Sir Robert Borden ; a Ball at Government House, and a farewell dinner by Lord Jellicoe on board the New Zealand, were among the entertainments. We had a picnic at Balandra Bay in the north-east of the Island —a fifty miles motor drive on excellent pitch roads, through most luxuriant vegetation—cocoa-trees with large brilliantly-coloured pods being most noticeable.

The sight of the cocoa-trees called to mind the

339

UNDER GREAT BEAR AND SOUTHERN CROSS

very considerable gift of chocolate made in 1915 by Trinidad, St. Lucia, and Granada to the whole of the Naval and Military Forces, packed in thousands of decorative black and gold tins and sent to the Motherland for distribution from those Colonies —a spontaneous act of great generosity that was much appreciated.

Trinidad was our last port of call and we left for England direct on January 21, 1920, arriving at Portsmouth on February 3. The time on passage passed quickly and there was a feeling of satisfaction that the work of the Mission was completed at last —it had seemed an immense business to contemplate twelve months before. Sir Robert Borden, who had previously expected to visit South Africa, remained with us and saw England once more instead.

Lady Jellicoe and her children, including the son and heir, now Viscount Brocas, came on board at Spithead, and many wives were waiting on the South Railway Jetty as the ship was brought alongside. The Commander-in-Chief, the late Admiral Sir Cecil Burney, was there to welcome Lord Jellicoe and he “went on shore” the next day as directed by Admiralty orders, received on arrival, after a short valedictory address to officers and men. His Flag was struck at sunset. There was a hasty packing up by the members of the Mission, for the ship was to leave almost at once for Devonport to pay off, and the prayer, used daily on board His Majesty’s ships, had certainly a special significance for some who heard it for the last time on board the New Zealand, and for myself, I realized with mixed feelings that this was the end of my service afloat.

THE END

INDEX

INDEX

A

Abyssinia, King John of, 42

Adams, Sir Hamilton Gould, 264

Addington, P., 214

Albani, Madame, 79-80

Albany, Duchess of, 74

Albany, Duke of, 74

Albany, Princess Alice of, 74

Alcester, Lord, 46

Alexander 11, Emperor of Russia, 24

Alexandra, Queen, 158

Allardyce, Mr. and Mrs., 116-117

Aplin, Lieutenant, 46 A I_ 1 „ A ~ t ,

Armadale, A., 214

Armytage family (of Australia), 27

Arthur, Captain Leonard, 129

Australian Colonies, Federation of, 104 et. seq.

Australian Trade Unions, 168

Austria, Empress of, 84

B

Babb, James F., 77

Babcock, Commander (U.S.N.), 242

Backhouse, Commander Roger, 211 D-j 11 r j

Baden-Powell, Lord, 282

Baird, Rear-Admiral, 62

Baker, Orlando, 123 D„ 1 n ti

Baker, Paymaster R. Glutton, 99 tr~..i -v r' ,„o T „_o

Balfour, Earl, K.G., 198-199, 238 U *-* f , n T_l —. (' L% awl An ■—l O

Ballantyne, Hon. Charles, 280

Balmain, Captain, 160

Bangay, Lieutenant, 218

Bankhart, S. H., 214

Barnard family (of Victoria, B.C.)> 98

Barrett, Lieut.-Colonel Sir James, K.8.E., C.8., 159, 201

Barrett, Wilson, 113

“Bartimeus"—see Ricci, L. A. da C.

Barton, Sir Edmund, ioi, 105

Baltenburg, Prince Louis of, 75 186

Battenburg, Prince Henry of, 78

Bayley, Admiral Sir Lewis, 22s

Beaconsfield, Lord, 26

Beardmore family (Toronto), 121

Beatty, Earl, 224, 238

Beauchamp, Lord, 102, 122

Beauclerk, W. N., 87

Beauclerk, Mrs. W. N., 87

Beaumont, Lady, 119

Beaumont, Rear-Admiral Sir Lewis A, 84 et. seq., 99 et. seq., 181, 189

Beaver, H., 73

Becker, Rear-Admiral (U.S.N.), 284 D <■ Art/'lr T ef TfQ

Bedford, Sir Frederick, 70, 135, 158

Bedford, Lieutenant Arthur, 119

Bedford, Lady, 135, 158

Begas, Captain, 194, 195

Beit, Alfred, 66 D~ll C TV„U,, V

Bell, Surgeon Digby K., 219

Bellairs, Lieut.-Commander R. M., 211

Beni, Ratu, 33-34, 116

Bentink, Captain R. W., 211

Bernhardt, Sarah, 244

Bernstein, Henri, 243

Best, Commander the Hon. Matthew, 211

Bickford, Rear-Admiral A. K., 99 rrrro QJr Arthur

Bigge, Sir Arthur, 184

Birkenhead, Lord, 218

Biscoe, Lieutenant E. Tyndale, 66 r' f' —.

Blake, Commander Geoffrey, 224

Boer War, 88, 107

Bolen, Baron Krupp von, ig6

Bombay Yacht Club, 50

Bon, Admiral de, 247

Booth, General William (Salvation Army), 168-169

Bordon, Sir Robert, 284, 285-6

Bostock family (of Victoria, B.C.)> 98

Bourtoline, Lieutenant (Russian Navy), 245

Bowen, W. H., 73

Boyle, Captain Robert Hornby, 50

Bradlaugh, Charles, 26

Bridges, Rear-Admiral Walter 8., 131, 169, 247

Bridges, Lieutenant O. S., 253

Brine, G., 214

Brisbane, Sir Thomas, 164

British South African Company, 66

Brocas, Viscount, 286

Brodie, Lieut.-Commander T. S., 120

Bromley, Commander Arthur, 185

Brooke, Basil, 181

Browne, Mr. and Mrs. Everard, 131

Bruce, Admiral Sir James, 59

Bryce, Lord, 208

"Bungay Billy”, 125

aSg

_ T

343

INDEX

Burney, Admiral Sir Cecil, 189, 196, 286 Butler, Sir Harcourt, 254

Clarke, Sir George—see Sydenham, Lord Clarke, Marcus, nx

Butler, Sir Harcourt, 254

Clarke, Marcus, in

Butt, Madame Clara, 160

Clarke, Captain Robertson, 122

Buxton, Lady Herraione, 190

Clarke, Blackwood, 27

Buxton, Lieutenant Bernard, 187, 190

Clibborn, T. S., 167

Byron, Paymastcr-in-Chief C. E., 136

Cloete family (S. Africa), 64

Byron-Moore, H., 167

Colley, General, 23

Collins, S. A., 214

Colville, Rear-Admiral the Hon. Sir Cecil, 200

Colwell, G. H., 73

Cook, Captain, 128

C

Cooper, Assistant-Paymaster John, 63

Commerell, Sir Edmund, V.C., 72-73

Cabera, Don Estrado de. President of Guatemala, 89-90

Connaught, Duke of, 46, 71, 194

Connaught, Duchess of, 194

Cakobau (Thakombau), King (Fiji), 33-34. 116, 273

Connor, Hon. R. E. G., 106

Corfe, Rev. C. J. (Bishop of Corea), 20

Callaghan, Admiral Sir George, 197, 206, 210, 211, 214

Cornwall, John, V.C., 210

Cornwall and York, Duke and Duchess of, 26

Callan, Walter, 173

Calvert, Commander T. P., 250

Coronation, 1911, 192 et seq. Cotton, R. G. A. Stapleton, 77, 182

Cotton, R. G. A. Stapleton, 77, 182

Campbell, Admiral Sir Henry, K.C.V.0., C.8., 202, 209

Cradock, Rear-Admiral Sir C. F., 73, 196-197, 216

Campion, Rev. F. N., 125

Carden, Rear-Admiral S. H., 186-187

Craven, Lieutenant T. T. (U.S.N.), 117 Creswell, Rear-Admiral Sir William,

CresweU, Rear-Admiral Sir William, 262

Carlos, King of Portugal, 77

Carmichael, Sir Thomas Gibson Carpenter, Lieut.-Commander A. F. 8., V.C., an Carson, Sir Edward, 238, 240

Carson, Sir Edward, 238, 240

Crewe, Ear! of, 180, 186

Currie, family (of Australia), 27

Cassidy, Lieutenant George, 279

Curzon-Howe, Admiral the Hon. Sir Assheton, 185

Caulfield, Captain James A., 32

Cayzer, Lady, 270

Cust, Sir William, Bt., 27, 103

Cesarcwitch, The, 72

Chamberlain, Joseph, 77-78

Chancellor, Sir John, 285

Chancellor, Lady, 285

Chang, Li Hung, 79

D

Charrington, Lieutenant, 47-48

Chalet, Sir Paul, 175

Date, Rear-Admiral, 78

Chelmsford, Lord, 173, 186, 252 et. seq.

Chelmsford, Lady, 158, 173, 252

Dampier, Captain Cecil F., 216 Dangar family, 118

Daniels, Josephus, 283

Chelmsford, Lady, 158, 173, 252 Chermside, Sir Herbert, 127

Darley, Sir Frederick, 10a

Childs, R. H., 73

Davis, Charles, 27

Chirnside family (of Australia), 27, 13a

Davidson, Sir Walter, 263

Davidson, Lady, 264, 269

Choraley, Miss, 160

Davy, E. G. W., 77

Christchurch (N.Z.), Dr. Julius,

Deakin, Hon. Alfred, 105, 156, 159

Bishop of, 271 Christian. Caotain Arthur. 181

De Chacal family, (of Mauritius,) 5a

— Denison, John, 73

Christian, Captain Arthur, 181 Christian, Henry, 67

Denmark, Crown Prince of, 79

Churchill, Winston, 198, 202, 206, 217

Denmark, Crown Princess of, 79

Denmark, Prince Charles of—see

Civil Service Commissioners, iq

Clanwilliam, Rear-Admiral the Earl of, C.8., 21, 32, 39, 71, 103

Norway, King of Denmark, King of, 79, 83

Denmark, Queen of, 79, Ba, 84

Clarence, Duke of, at, 31, 33, 273

-7 X I'** Dcnnistoun, Captain Robert P., 50

29 1

INDEX

Dent, Fleet-Paymaster E. G., 63

Fanshawe, Lady, 119

Desbarats, Mr., 280

Fanshawe, Vice-Admiral Sir Arthur D., 117, 119, 161

Detached Squadron, 21 et. seq. Devas, Mrs. H. C. (Miss Valerie Davenport), 269

Devas, Mrs. H. C. (Miss Valerie Davenport), 269

Faussett, Bryan G. Godfrey, 77

Fawkes, Lady, 181

Devas, Surgeon-Lieut.-Commander H. C., 269

Fawkes, Vice-Admiral Sir Wilmot, 63, 148, 161, 181

Devonshire, Duke and Duchess of, 280 Donkin, John, 114-115

Federal Moulders (Argentine Trade), 204 Federal S.S. Co, 205

Donkin, John, 114-115

Federal S.S. Co, 205

Fedotoff, Lieutenant (Russian Navy), 245 Feraudy, Mons. de., 243

Douglas, A. W., 73

Dowell, Admiral Sir William, 46

Drake, Sir I. G., 106

Feraudy, Mons. de., 243

Dreyer, Commander F. C., 187, 197, 211, 239, 250, 272

Ferguson, Sir Ronald Munro—see Novar, Lord Ferguson, Lady Helen Munro—see

Dudley, Earl of, 171, 173

Ferguson, Lady Helen Munro—see

Duff, Rear Admiral A. L., 239, 241

Novar, Lady Fergusson, Sir James, 50

Fergusson, Sir James, 50

Duff, Captain A. M., 215

Dufferin, Lord, 57

Fergusson, Miss Alice, 50

Dufferin, Lady, 57

Fife, Duke of, 196, 198

Duke of Wellington's (West Riding) Regt., 232

Fife, Duchess of, 196

Fitzgerald, Colonel, 235

Dunsmuir family (of Victoria, 8.C.), 97f 179

Fitzgerald, Admiral Purefoy, 119

Fitzherbert, Lieutenant H., 211

Fitzmaurice, Commander Maurice S., 148

Dunsterville, General, 253

Dyer, E. H., 99

Fitzroy, Captain R. O. 8., 48, 49

Fletcher, Admiral W. 8., 276

Forbes Commander, 211

E

Forrest, Sir John, 101, 106

France, Gerald, 218

Eaton family (S. Africa), 64

Francis, family (of Australia), 27

Edinburgh, Duke of, 46

Frazer family (of Mauritius), 52

Edward, Prince—see Clarence, Duke of Edward VII, King, 70, 73, 79, 81 et.

of

Edward VII, King, 70, 73, 79, 81 et.

Frederick, Crown Prince of Germany, 62 Frederick, Crown Princess of Ger-

Frederick, Crown Princess of Germany, 62

seq., 104, 116, 130, Death of, 184

Eedy, Captain, 148

French, Rear-Admiral W. F., 202

Egerton, Admiral Sir George, 196

Fripp, Sir Alfred, 82

Egerton, R. F., 251, 276-277

Fullerton, Rear-Admiral Sir John, 71, 73

Egerton, Mrs. (Miss Margaret McBean), 276-277

Furneaux, Captain Tobias, 113

Elliott family (of Mauritius), 52

Fyers, Captain Hubert, 160, 173, 180

Emery, Rear-Admiral W. H.(U.S.N.), 171 English, Tom, 273-274

English, Tom, 273-274

Fysh, Sir P., 106

Errazuriz, Senor, Presdt. of Chile, 95

Erskine, Sir W. A., 284-285

G

Eton College, 170

Everett, Rear-Admiral Sir Allan A. F., 211, 285

Gallway, Sir Henry, 262

Gandy, Lieutenant, 218

Ewart, Mrs., 160

Gardner-King, The Misses, 122

Gaunt, Lady, 254, 257

Gaunt, Admiral Sir Ernest, 254, 257

Geddes, Sir Eric, 240, 242

F

Genoa, Duke of, 76

Fairbairn family (S. Africa), 64

George V, King, 21, 25, 31, 33, 83, 101 et. seq., 183, 184-185, 192, 196, 198, 199, 212, 220-221, 228 et. seq., 236, 248, 264, 273

Fairbridge family (S. Africa), 64

Falkland Islands, Bishop of —see Stirling, Rt. Rev. W. H.

345

INDEX

George, H.R.H. Prince, 185

Henderson, Lieutenant R. W., (U.S.N.), 171

George IV, King, 70

Germany, Emperor William of, 190

Hennessy, Sir John Pope, Governor of Hong Kong, 39

Germany, Empress Frederick of, 71, 75

Henniker-Heaton, Sir John, 168

Henry, Prince—see Prussia, Prince Henry of Henry, Sir Edward, 183

Germany, Emperor Frederick of, 76, 78

Ghandi, 254

Henry, Sir Edward, 183

Gibson family (of Mauritius), 52

Herbert, Judge C. E., 149, 155

Gibson, Fleet-paymaster Henry C. W., 59

Hewett, W. W., 73

Hewett, Rear-Admiral Sir William, V.C., 43, 47-48, 51, 57, 59, 62-63

Gilford, Lord, 74, 77

Gill, Captain, 47-48

Higgins, Miss, 160

Goodenough, Admiral Sir William, 200, 202

Hillyard, George, 27

Hill, J. J., 179-180

Gordon, General, 57

Hill, Mrs. J. J., 180

Goschen, Mr., First Lord of the Admiralty, 99

Hockin, George Stirling, 22, 36 et. seq. Hodgson, Dennis, 218

Gosling, Audlcy, 95

Hodgson, Victor, 218

Gough Island, 23

Holman, Major, 115

Graham family (S. Africa), 64

Hood, Rear-Admiral the Hon. Horace, 223, 224

Grant, Vice-Admiral H. S., 251

Horace, 223, 224

Grant, Rear-Admiral E. S., 265

Hopetoun, Earl of, 105, 106, 109, 115-116

Grant, Admiral Sir Lowther, 33

Graves, John Hicks, 53

Hopetoun, Lady, 106

Gresley, R. N., 73

Hopwood, Captain Ronald, 185, 187, 188, 206

Greville, Captain the Hon. Charles, 131, 160, 180

Hore, F., 77

Grey, Lord, 184

Hornby, Captain Phipps, 181

Grice, Sir John, 159

Horsey, Admiral Spencer de, 67

Griffin, Captain J. McC., 132

Hunter, General Sir Archibald, 189, 196 Hunter, H. P., 251

Grimshaw, Beatrice, 268

Hunter, H. P., 251

Guiness, E. D., 214, 251

Gulley, Hon. Edward, 218

Hussey, S. A., 214

Guyer, Henry, 92

Hutton, Major-General Sir Edward, 130 Hyde, Rear-Admiral S. (R.A.N.), 262

Gwalior, Maharajah of, 255, 256

Hyde, Rear-Admiral S. (R.A.N.), 262

H

I

Haig, Earl, 231

Iddlesleigh, Dowager Countess of, 180 Ijuin, Admiral Baron, 176

Hall, Professor Basil, 36

Hall, Sydney P., 108

Ijuin, Admiral Baron, 176

Halsey, Commodore Lionel, 211

Halsey, Admiral Sir Lionel, 68, 73

Inchiquin, Lady, 252

Hamilton, Rear-Admiral E. T., 187, 189 Hamilton, Gavin, 272

Ito, Prince, 177

Hamilton, Gavin, 272

Hardie, Keir, M.P., 168

J

Hardinge, Midshipman, 27

Jackson, Admiral of the Fleet Sir Henry, 83

Hardwicke, Earl of, 74

Harman, Captain A. R., 126

Hart, Sir Robert, 87

Jackson, Lieutenant, 46

Hay, Commander the Honble. Gerald, 88, 96

Jameson Raid, 77-78

Japan, Mutsu Hito, Emperor of, 36, 178

Heide, T., 159

Hcley-Hutchinson, Sir Walter, 191

Jellicoe, Betty, 189

Helm, Lieut.-Commander L. H. D., 232

Jellicoe of Scapa, Admiral of the Fleet the Earl, 185 et. seq., 249 et. seq.

INDEX

346

Jellicoe, Lady, 190, 206, 237, 244, 250 et. sea.

Le Hunte, Sir George, 169

CC* Jellicoe, Lady Prudence, 206

Lindsay, Sir Robert, 273

Lloyd, C. K., 251

Jellicoe, Lieutenant F. G., 253

Lloyd, Edward, 79

Jenner, Mr., 89

Lloyd, Lady, 252

Jerram, R. C., 214

Lloyd, Sir George, 252

Jersey, Lord, 136

Lobengula, King, 66

Jersey, Lady, 136, 158, 180

Loch, Brigadier-General S. S., 255, 256 Loch, Sir Henry, 66

Johanna, Sultan of, 56

Johnston, Brigadier-General G. T., 266 Jones, Lloyd, 27

Loch, Sir Henry, 66

Loewen family (of Victoria, 8.C.), 97

Jones, Lloyd, 27

Loxley, Captain H. N., 222

Jutland, Battle of, 224 et. seq., 263

Luard, Flag-Lieutenant J0hn5.,63,66 Luard, Mrs. J. S. (Miss Constance Wells), 63

Luard, Mrs. J. S. (Miss Constance Wells), 63

Lugard, Lord and Lady, 175

K

Luttrell, Geoffrey, 263

Luttrell, Mrs., 263

Lyne, Sir William, 106

Katsura, Marquis, 177

Keeble, Lady (Lilia Macarthy), 113

Kelvin, Lord, 122

Keppel, Admiral of the Fleet Sir Henry, 81, 82

M

Keppel, Admiral Sir Colin, K.C.V.0., 73/ 76, 99

Macarthur, Captain John, 167-168

Keyes, Admiral of the Fleet Sir Roger, 73, 250

Macarthur, Miss, 168

Macarthur-Onslow, Mrs., 118

Killpatrick, W. 99

MacCarthy, Charles 1., 276

King, Governor of N.S.W., 114, 167

Macarthy, Miss Lillah—see Keeble, Lady Macartney, Sir William Ellison, 262

King Hall, Rear-Admiral Sir Herbert, 200

Macartney, Sir William Ellison, 262

Kingsmill, Admiral Sir Charles, 278

MacCaughey, Sir Samuel, 135, 161

Kingston, Rt. Hon. C. C., 106

MacCormac, Sir William, 82

Kipling, Rudyard, 69

Macdonald, Ramsay, 122, 168

Kitchener, Lord, 234 et. seq.

Macdonald, Sir Claude, 177, 179

Kolchak, Admiral (Russian Navy), 244-245

Macdonald, Vice-Admiral Sir Reginald, 20

Komura, Baron, 178

Maclrvine family (of Mauritius), 52

Kruger, President, 78

MacPherson, Lieutenant, 235-236

Kulalongkorn, King of Siam, 8i Kylsant, Lord, 205

Macquasie, Major-General, 164

Madden, Admiral of the Fleet Sir Charles, Bt., 67-68

Madden, Lady, 158

Madden, Rear-Admiral Sir Charles, 211, 221, 238, 276

L

Madden, Mrs., 276

Laborde, C. F., 251

Madden, Sir John, 161

Lackham, C. M., 119

Magellan, Straits of, 22

Laking, Sir Francis, 82

Malleson family, 27

Lambart, Honble. Bertha, 75

Mallet, Claude, 91

Landale, Mrs. Alexander, 160

Manifold family (Australia), 132

Larking, R. J., 159

Marconi, Signor, 82-83

Laurie, —, 150

Marie, Princess, 83

Lawley, Sir Arthur, 109

Marriott, C. H., 214

Lawson, Captain R. N., 210, 211

Marshal, Mr. (Vice-Presdt., U.S.A.), 283 Martin family (of Victoria, 8.C.), 98

Lee of Fareham, Lord, 63

Lee, R. S., 73

-403 Martin family (of Victoria, B.C.)> 98

Leggett, Captain Oliver P., 250

Martino, Chevalier de, 83, 109-110

Legh, S. H., 214

Mary, H.M. Queen, 101 et. seq., 184185, 196, 198, 248

Le Hunte, Lady, 158

347

INDEX

Mary, H.R.H. Princess, 185

Novar, Lady, 264

Massey, W. F., 270

Novar, Lord, 262, 263, 264

Matthews, Rev. C. H. S., 125

Norway, King of, 79

Matthews family (of Victoria, 8.C.), 98 Mauger, Hon. Samuel, 148

Norway, Queen of, 79

Mauger, Hon. Samuel, 148

May, Admiral Sir William, 187, 189

McCarthy, W., 214

O

McVey, Commander (U.S.N.), 174

Melba, Madame, 160

Osborne House, 71, 76 et. seq., 182

Melbourne, 24, 26

Oscar, King of Sweden and Norway, 59

Mikado, The—see Japan, Mutsu Hito, Emperor of Miller, Mrs. Albert, 160

Owens, T., 77

Miller, Mrs. Albert, 160

Miller, family (of Australia), 27

Milton, Eric, 272

Minto, Lord and Lady, 96

P

Mondell, Mr., 283

Monson, Lady, 60

Pacific Station, 22

Monson, Lord, 60

Paine, Rear-Admiral Sir Godfrey, 73 Palmer, Professor, 47-48

Moore family (of Australia), 27

Moore, T. R., 214

Palmer, Professor, 47-48

Monte Video, 21

Parkes, Lady, 30

Moreton Bay, Queensland, 26

Parkes, Sir Henry, 30, 105

Morgan, C. H., 35-36

Parrot - , General, 196

Morgan, F. R. W., 73

Payne, Mr. and Mrs., 178, 190

Morgan, Lieutenant L. V., 250, 27a Morgan, Pierpoint, 175

Pearce, Captain Kerr, 160

Pearson, Rear-Admiral, too Peirse, Rear-Admiral, R. H., 196

Morgan, Rear-Admiral F. C., 71

Morning Herald (Sydney), JO4 Morris, G. H., 73

Pelham, Rear-Admiral, 189

Pemberton (of Victoria, 8.C.), 98

Mount Stephen, Lord, 178, 179

Perrin, W. G., 0.8. E., 207

Murray, Andrew, 27

Peru, President of, 91

Murray, Judge H. P., 267

Petersen, Mrs. Franklin, 160

Philip, Captain Arthur, 164

Phillipps, Sir Owen—see Kylsant, Lord

Phipps, Lieutenant W. D., 211

N

Pickersgill, Mr. and Mrs., 53

Pi-Kwang, Admiral Cheng, 192

Napier, Lord, 60

Poe, Admiral Sir Edmund, 187

Naval Club, Simon’s Bay, 69

Pollard, Fleet-Paymaster, 211

Nevill, Lord Richard, 107

Pomare, Sir Maui, 270

New Zealand Shipping Co., 204

Ponsonby, Miss M., 74

Niblack, Admiral (U.S.N.), 283

Ponsonby, Lord, 74

Nicholas of Greece, Prince, 83-84

Pooley (of Victoria, 8.C.), 98

Poore, Admiral Sir Richard, 161, 172 Poore, Lady, 172

Nicholson, Admiral Sir Henry, 68, 70 Nicholson, Lady, 70

Poore, Lady, 172

Nicholson, Lady, 70

Port Stanley, 22

Nicholson, Lieut.-Commander, 211

Portsmouth, Lord Mayor of, 193

Nightingale, Florence, 80

Power, Commander Laurence, 112

Normandy, Marchioness of, 27

Pratt-Barlow, Lieutenant B. A., 85, 99. 120

Normandy, Marquis of (Governor of Victoria), 27

Primrose, G. A., 77

Northcote, Lady, 126, 130 ct. seq., 176 et. seq. Northcote, Lord, 126, 129, 130 et.

Prior, C., 214

Prior family (of Victoria, 8.C.) 98 Prussia, Prince Henry of, 62

Northcote, Lord, 126, 129, 130 et.

Prussia, Prince Henry of, 62

seq., 175 et. seq., 181, 184, 196-197, 269

Pugsley, J. W., 284

INDEX

348

R

Alexandra, 46

Aorangi, 120

Ramsay, Commander B. H., 250

Arabic, 180

Ranavalona Manjaka, Malagasy Queen, 53

Aragon, 205

Archer, 108

Ranfurly, Lady, 107

Argyle, 186

Ranfurly, Lord, 107

Ariadne, 182

Rawson, Admiral Sir Harry, 29, 115, 117, 122 et. seq., 133, 134, 158, 161, 177, 185-186

Audacious, 216

Australia, 273

Bacchante, 21, 25, 26, 27, 32, 36, 39,46,103,207,273 Badger, 226

Rawson, Commander Wyatt, 100

(footnote), 115, 126, 133

pv,, p Badger, 226

Rawson, Lady, 115, 122 et. seq., 126, 133, 161

Birmingham, 215

Black Eagle, 70

Rawson, Miss Margaret (Lady Duff), 100, 115, 126, 129, 133, 158

S/ac/c Prince, 186, 227, 228

Blanche, 31

Reid, Sir George, 118-119, 207

Blenheim, 78

Rhodes, Cecil, 66, 68-69

Blonde, 78

Ribot, Mons. (Premier of France), 243

Boadicea, 23, 45, 210

Ricci, L. A. da C. (“Bartimeus”), 214

Borodino, 219

Ridout, Staff-Surgeon Charles L., 51

Bounty, 31,116 Britannia, 31

R.M.S.P. Co., 204, 205

Roberts, Tom, m

Broke, 250

Roberts, Lord, 24

Brooklyn, 102

Robertson family (Australia), 132

Calcutta, 285

Robertson, Wing-Commander E. D. M., 251

Calliops, 226

Cambrian, 75

Rodjestvensky, Admiral, 136-146

Camperdown, 74

(Battle of Tsushima, RussoJapanese War) Rodjestvensky, Admiral, 56

Carthage, 80

Carysfort, 21, 24,27, 38, 39. 47. ™3 Celtic, 121

Rodjestvensky, Admiral, 56

Celtic, 121

Rodwell, Sir Cecil, 273

Centurian, 210

Rogers, H., 214

Chang Sha, 148

Roosevelt, Franklin, 282

Chester, 210

Rowe, W. H., 115, 117, 120

Cleopatra, 21, 25, 39

Rowen, Lieutenant S. C. (U.S.N.), 171 Roxby, Herbert, 77

Cocquette, 47

Colossus, 200, 201

* / a Roxby, Herbert, 77

Connecticut, 171

Royal Australian Naval College, 263264 Royal Naval College, Osborne, 181-

Constance, 285

Conway, 204

Royal Naval College, Osborne, 1 Si--182

Crescent, 83

Cyclops, 218

Royds, Sir Charles, 24

Defence, 225, 228

Rudd, C. D., 68

Delhi, 196-197

Rudd family (S. Africa), 64

Doris, 186

Rudd, Mrs. C. D., 68

Drake, 186, 187, 188, 189

Russo-Japanese War, Battle of Tsushima, 136-146

Du/ce 0/ Edinburgh, 186, 197

Duncan, 20

Ryan, Major-General Sir Charles, 245

Elk, 21

Ryan, family (of Australia), 27

Emden, 261

Emperor of India, 178

Enchantress, 198, 202

SHIPS

Endeavour, 128

Etona, 169-170

Acosta, 224, 227

Euripides, 207

Adriatic, 281

Euryalus, 42, 52, 57, 58

Adventure, 113

Falmouth, 237

Agincourt, 61

Federal, 151, 154

Albemarle, 187, 200

Formidable, 186, 222

Alberta , 71, 72, 84, 183

Forward, 21

349

INDEX

Frauenlob, 228

Friant, 197

Gadfly, 69

Galatea, 223, 224

Georgia, 171

Germania, 195

Good //ope, 189

Glasgow, 188

Gneisenau, 273

Griper, 69

v/t ijtct, uy Gromoboi, 102

Gut/ 0} Finland, 50

Hai-Chai, 192

Hampshire, 234 et. seg.

Hansa, 102

Hashidate, 136

Hawke, 120

Hecla, 46

Hercules, 45

Hermione, 99, 197 et. seg.

Hibernia, 58

Himalaya, 63

Hohenzollerr, 72, 190, 194

. /—7 Icarus, 89

Illinois, 171

Imperieuse, 87

Implacable, 186

Inconstant, 21, 32, 34, 39, 45, 46, 103

Indefatigable, 224

Indomitable, 227

Inflexible, 46

Invincible, 224, 226, 227

/ris, 47

iron Z)utcc, 210, 218 et. seg., 239, 250, 285

Itsukushima, 136

yttno, 103, no

Japanese Warships—see Battle of

Tsushima, 136-146

Kansas, 171

Katora, 176

Kearsage, 171

Kentucky, 171

Kormoran, 102,194

Kumano Maru, 173, 175

La Gallissioniere, 47

i-'jfi'ej', 95

Lion, 224, 225

Loongana, 132

London, 186

Louisiana, 171

Mahachakrkri, 81

Maine, 171

Malaya, 237

Marlborough, 182

Medina, 196, 197

Meteor, 194

Mildura, 108

Minotaur, 59, 60, 61, 62

Minnesota, 171

Miowera, 116

Missouri, 171

Monarch, 47, 48, 60, 70

Nebraska, 171

Neptune, 199

tVew Zealand, 250 et. seg.

New Jersey, 171

Noord Brabant, 102

Northumberland, 61

Nottingham, 237

Nurnberg, 275

Ohio, 171

Ophir, 26, 102, 103, 106, 107, 108, 109, no

Orion, 48, 63, 200

Orontes, 121

Ormuz, 133

Osborne (Royal Yacht), 77 et. seq.

Osprey, 51

Penelope, a,-]

Penguin, 108

Phaeton, 89

Pheasant, 89

Polar Star, 79

Powerful, 181

Premier, 269

President, 202

Prince of Wales, 186 et. seq.

Prize, 271

Pylades, 108, 181

Pyramus, 148, 149, 152 et. seq., 173, 269

Queen, 186

Queen Mary, 224, 227

Raleigh, 63, 67

Ranger, 51

Reliance, 113

Resolution, 113

Rhode Island, 171

Ringarooma, 108

River Clyde, 219

Royal Arthur, 101, 102, 109, no, 113, 116, 118

Royal George, 70

Ruby, i6g

Rupert, 59

Russian Warships at the Battle of

Tsushima, 136-146

St. George, 103 C# T7._

51. Vincent, 239

Sappho, 210

Sharnhorst, 273

Shearwater, 70

Southampton, zoo, 224

Sparrowhawk, 97

Sparrow, 108

Stadacona, 279

Standart, 79, 81, 183

INDEX

350

Sultan, 60

Sausoures, Mons. De, 86

Suva, 264 et. seq.

Swallow, 22

Savile, Captain H., 234 et. seq. Sawbridge, Commander H. R., 250

Saxon, ]., 77

Swift, 206

Sydney, 261

Tamar, 23

Schroeder, Rear-Admiral Seaton (U.S.N.), 171

Temeraire, 58, 62

Thunderer, 200, 201, 206

Schwab, Charles, 282

7 ickler, 69

Scott, General Sir Arthur, 254

Tiverton, 58

Scott, Lady, 254

Torch, 108

Scott, Lord Charles, 37

Tourmaline, 21,22, 24, 27, 31, 39, 47/ 49/ 50, 57/ 103

Scott, Vice-Admiral Sir Percy, 201 Seddon, Richard, 107

7 rident, 70

Seddon, Richard, 107

Trinity Yacht, 70

Seniloli, Ratu Pope, 116, 120, 273 Serbia, King and Queen of, 122

Tsinan, 157

t/na ( Komet ), 266

/D Serbia, King and Queen of, 122

Valiant, 237

Severn, Rev. H. F., 170

Vanguard, 202

Seymour, Admiral Sir Beauchamp —see Alcester, Lord Share, Lady, 31, 247, 251 et. seq.

Venerable, 186

Venus, 186

Share, Lady, 31, 247, 251 et. seq.

Vermont, 171

Share, Mr., 85, 199-200

Vernon, 181 et. seg. Vestnik, 24

Share, Miss, 85, 200

Share, Mrs., 79, 113, 200

Victoria (Yacht), 127

Shaw Savill & Albion Co., 205

Victoria, 73

Shimaraura, Rear-Admiral, 136, 146147,176,193 Ships representing foreign Nations at

Victoria and Albert, 65, 70, 71 et. seq., 80, 99, 199

***// * /'■'z Ships representing foreign Nations at

Victory, 183

the Coronation Naval Review, 1911, 192-193

Ville de Victoria, 60

Vindictive, 218

Siam, King Kulalongkorn of—see Kulalongkorn

Virago, 97

Virginia, 171

Silk, Engineer-Commander E.S., 149, 152

Waller 00, 108

Wanderer, 45

Sims, Admiral W. S. (U.S.N.), 241242, 246, 247

Warrimoo, 99

Warrior, 182

Simonds, Lieutenant H., 222-223

Warspite, 84, 86-87, 95

Sketchley, Captain E. Powys, 136

Wiesbaden, 228

Smith, Captain Dorrien, 160

Wisconsin, 171

Smith, F. Harrison, 131

Wolverene, 31

Smith, Sir Harold, 218

Worcester, 204

Smith, U.S. Governor-General (Manila), 174

Yankton, 171, 174, 178

Yosemite, 98

Smith-Dorrien, Sir Horace, 251

Zampa, 47

Smythies, Bishop, 56

Several, Marquis de, 83

Spain, Ex-Queen Isabella of, 127

Sparks, E., 73

S

Spec, Admiral von, 22 (footnote), 216, 217, 273

Saito, Baron, 178

Sperry, Rear-Admiral (U.S.N.), 171

Sperry, Rear-Admiral (U.S.N.), 171 et. seq., 177, 178

Salis, Lieut.-Commander, R. H. de, 250

Salmon, Rear-Admiral Sir Nowell, V.C., 45

Stephens, Captain S. Byng, 148, 156, 160, 173, 180

Stephenson, Captain H. F., 37

Salmond, Lieut-Commander J. S. 211 Samways, W. H., 214

Stevenson, Robert Lewis, 273

Stiffe, Mr., 253

Samways, W. H., 214

Stirling, Rt. Rev. W. H. (Bishop of the Falkland Islands), 22-23

Sanders, Lieut.-Commander, V.C. D.5.0., 271

Stoessel, General, 147

298

INDEX

Stokes, Commander Pringle, 86

V

Strickland, Lady EdeUne, 133, 158 Strickland, Sir Gerald, 132

Valentine, V. E. D., 214

Strickland, Sir Gerald, 132

Vanderbyl family (S. Africa), 64

Sturdee, Admiral Sir H. Doveton, 22 (footnote), 217

Verney, Sir Ralph, 173

Victoria, Governor of—see Normandy Marquis of

Sulivan, Admiral Sir Francis, 39, 43 Swanzy, Mrs. F. N., 277

Swanzy, Mrs. F. N., 277

Victoria, Queen, 33,53, Naval Review, 1887, 61, 66, 70, 71, 74 et. seq., Jubilee, 79-80, 82, 84, 96, Death of, ioo-ioi, 105, 182

Sweden and Norway, King Oscar of, 59 Sydenham, Lord, in

59 Sydenham, Lord, in

Victoria, Princess, 79, 81, 83

Sydney, Archbishop of, 269

Vintcent family (S. Africa), 64

Symon (Son of Sir John Symon), 182 Symon, Sir John, 182

Symon, Sir John, 18:

W

Wales, Princess of, 81

Wales, Prince of (Edward VII) —see Edward VII

T

Wales, Princess Maud of—see Norway, Queen of Wales, H.R.H. the Prince of, 220, 264,

Wales, H.R.H. the Prince of, 220, 264, 276

Tait, Sir Thomas, 124

Tate, Colonel R. W., 273

Talbot, Major-General, Sir Reginald, 158, 161

Wales, Prince Albert of, 182

Talbot, Lady, 158

Wainwright, Rear-Admiral Richard (U.S.N.), 171

Taylor, Scarlett de P., 77

Tel-el-Kebir, Battle of, 49

Tennyson, Lord, 107, 109, 117

Walker, Mr. (H.M. Consul, Honolulu), 99

Tennyson, Lady, 117

Walker, Captain Thomas P., 85, 93, 120

Thompson, G. & Co. (Aberdeen), 204 Thomson, Sir D. Mitchell, 218

Thomson, Sir D. Mitchell, 218

Wallace, Major Claude, 23.

Thomson, Sinclair, 272

Wallington, Sir Edward, 107

Wansbrough, Rev. H., 97

Tickner, Lieutenant, 218

Warner, P. F., 126

Togo, Admiral, 136-146 (Battle of Tsushima, Russo-Japanese War), 147, 177

Warrender, Rear-Admiral Sir George, 200, 202, 212

Watson, Hon. J. C., 152

Travis, G., 214

Watt, W., 263

Tremayne, Colonel Arthur, 19-20

Weedon, Commander, 159

Trower, Lieutenant, 23

Weekes, Fleet-Paymaster Victor H. T., 214

Tryon, Admiral Sir George, 74

Tsar, 79, 183, 244

Wells, Sir Richard, 63, 65, 68

Tsaritsa, 79, 183

Wells, Mrs. (Lady Wells), 70

Tsushima, Battle of (Russo-Japanese War), 136-146

Wells, Miss Constance—see Luard, Mrs. J. S. Wemyss, Admiral of the Fleet, Lord

Tupper, Sir Charles, 121

Wemyss, Admiral of the Fleet, Lord

Turnbull, Martin & Co., 205

Wester, 103, 200, 244

Turner, H., 77

White Star Line, 204

Turner, Sir George, 106

Whittlesey, J. R., 214

Tyrwhitt, Sir R., 218-219

Whyte, Sir Frederick, 218

Wilkie family (of Australia), 27

Willis, Paymaster-Captain George H. A., 48

U

Wilson, Commodore John C., 30-31

Wilson Line, Hull, 204

Universities Mission, 55

Wilson, Woodrow, 283

Unwin, Captain Edward, V.C., 219

Wilson, Sir Leslie, D.5.0., 115

William IV, King, 70

Williams, Gardner, 66

Williams, Charles, M.P., 218

Williams, Major-General Sir J. Han bury, 184

Williams, G. Morrice, 159

Windham, Charles, 77

Winsloe, Admiral Sir Arthur, 103

Wolff, Johannes, 78

Wolseley, Sir Garnet, 48

Wood, Hope, 272

Woodhouse, J. A. E., 214

Woods, H. C., 73

Woods, Commander R. W., 211

Workman, Charles, 265

Wurtsbaugh, Lieutenant D. W. (U.S.N.), 171

299

Y

York, Archbishop of, 221

York, Duchess of—see Mary, H.M. Queen York, Duke of—see George V, King

York, Duke of —see George V, King

Yorke, Honble. Alexander, 74

Young, Sir Edward Hilton, 218

Z

Zede, Commander, 243

Zede, Gustave, 243

INDEX

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/books/ALMA1932-9917502873502836-Under-Great-Bear-and-Southern-Cr

Bibliographic details

APA: Share, Hamnet, Sir. (1932). Under Great Bear and Southern Cross : forty years afloat and ashore. Jarrolds.

Chicago: Share, Hamnet, Sir. Under Great Bear and Southern Cross : forty years afloat and ashore. London: Jarrolds, 1932.

MLA: Share, Hamnet, Sir. Under Great Bear and Southern Cross : forty years afloat and ashore. Jarrolds, 1932.

Word Count

80,900

Under Great Bear and Southern Cross : forty years afloat and ashore Share, Hamnet, Sir, Jarrolds, London, 1932

Under Great Bear and Southern Cross : forty years afloat and ashore Share, Hamnet, Sir, Jarrolds, London, 1932

Log in or create a Papers Past website account

Use your Papers Past website account to correct newspaper text.

By creating and using this account you agree to our terms of use.

Log in with RealMe®

If you’ve used a RealMe login somewhere else, you can use it here too. If you don’t already have a username and password, just click Log in and you can choose to create one.


Log in again to continue your work

Your session has expired.

Log in again with RealMe®


Alert