they could expect the clever pakeha to acquire everything, by means they could never imitate. However, at Matakana the outward conditions are very similar to Punaruku. There is quite an area of good land in the Whangaruru district, both around Punaruku itself and on the peninsula. This land, if well handled, could maintain many cows, grow more corn, and provide most of the things that are seen on Matakana Island. Yet Matakana is wealthy and Punaruku is poor. Why? This was the overwhelming question that met the children on that free Sunday. They did not all put it entirely consciously as a question, but they lived this other economy for a day, and a month later they were still talking about the differences: the horses on which they rode about were much fatter and sturdier than those at home; there was no blackberry on the paddocks; the fences were tight, the maize did not have the beetle as it did at home; the young people leaving for town often actually came back afterwards to get married and to live on the island—a thing almost unknown at Punaruku. Why all this difference? Of course there was no ready answer to this question; there was only enough time for the fact to become established and to gnaw its way into the mind. But that was hard work, and on the trip from Tauranga to Auckland there was as much sleep as geography. At the proper time our group, impeccable in their red blazers and uniforms, presented themselves in the marble halls of the Auckland War Memorial Museum.
V AUCKLAND
THE PRICE OF URBANISATION Among our group there was one very simple boy, Morris, of high school age but unable to read. He has a sweet and charming nature; although he could not be expected to understand much of the goings on, he was enjoying himself immensely, and was a popular figure at Matakana Island, playing football well, singing a most amusing solo number, and riding about expertly on a fine horse. Morris's shoes were far too small for him; the heels were almost worn away, and his feet were very painful. While we were waiting for the Museum staff to meet us we noticed Morris had come in with bare feet, his first slip in etiquette since the beginning of the tour. He was hastily sent back for the shoes but a little while later returned, still barefooted on the marble, and with a disarming grin—the bus had driven off, with his shoes on it.
THE MUSEUM The two hours in the museum were far too short. It was here that so very many things we talked about at school could be actually seen; and seeing, for our pupils, is so terribly important, it is so very much the main method of communication. However, the education officer at the museum provided as many experiences as he could in those two short hours. There was constant pressure to get the children to move from one showcase to the next. Wisely, our instructor told the children to put away their notebooks; otherwise we would never have finished our programme at all. The children loved browsing through a room, noting objects of special significance to them, and asking questions. One of them discovered a piece of quartz containing gold; just the sort of quartz we had discussed when we passed the gold mine at Waihi. When we reached the Pacific section a pupil asked to be shown a breadfruit. Many congregated about anything connected with fish. The Maori collection, saved until the end of the visit, was studied with great interest. So was Rajah the elephant.
ACCOMMODATION AND MEALS Our sleeping quarters were at Waipapa hostel. Many people, knowing the unpromising exterior, raised their eyebrows when they heard the address; however, the place is clean inside and very reasonably priced. Good sheets and pillows are provided. For any party not greater than 24 the hostel is very suitable, although one has to have meals and baths elsewhere; this, however, we found very easy to do. The advantage of Waipapa is that the whole party can stay together instead of being scattered through the city in billets. One gathers, in any case, that finding billets for Maori children is not easy in Auckland, although in Wellington and Christchurch, Maori schools have never found any difficulty. Having settled in at Waipapa, we went to the Maori Community Centre for our evening meal. The centre is to be complimented on the excellent service it gives to school parties. Not only is the food very good and reasonable, but the hall, the musical instruments, the friendliness, all helped to make the centre a second home for the children and a most useful base. We spent every night from 5.30 to 7.30 at the centre. We were visited there one night by Colonel Awatere, who is in charge of Maori welfare in Auckland. He told us about the activities of the Maori Community Centre and the services it gives to any of our pupils who might come to Auckland to live. Each day 10 children were on kitchen and dining-room duty to help the cook at the centre. This, however, did not stop them from joining in all the excursions.
OUR PROGRAMME IN AUCKLAND Our remaining programme in Auckland fell into three main sections: 1. The industrial programme; 2. The commercial practice programme;
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