This is the second of two articles on the ancient Maori mountaineers of the South Island. written by the well-known climber and author John Pascoe. The first article described old Maori mountaineering practices and equipment; the present one takes the reader along the various routes from the eastern plains to the greenstone country. The Wilberforce valley in Canterbury from the summit of Browning's pass. (Photo: John Pascoe.)

THE MAORI AND THE MOUNTAINS by JOHN PASCOE

(2) ACROSS THE MAIN DIVIDE When Raureka of the Ngatiwairangia pioneered the first crossing of the Southern Alps about 1700 A.D., according to the legend, she used an interesting and direct route. As explained in the preceding part of this article, she crossed what is now mapped as Browning's Pass. I have been over this route three times and can remember it as vividly as though it was last week. Raureka would have come up the Arahura Valley from the coast or from the Styx Valley near Lake Kaniere. Today we bypass the deep rock gorges by travelling on a foot track in the bush. Where we travel dryfoot, Raureka would have waded or swum deep pools where the blue mountain ducks frolic like spear fishermen. Further up the valley the bush gives way to stunted sub-alpine scrub, and a dangerous tributary, the Harman, can hold parties up in flood time. At the head of the valley, steep snowgrass and rocky bluffs force the traveller to a zig-zag climb up to Lake Browning, thirty-eight acres of blue snow water. Beyond the lake and at 4,500 odd feet is the pass, dividing Westland from Canterbury. The approach is very gradual.