Maori Recipes

Tu Tangata, Issue 25, 1 August 1985, Page 63

Maori Recipes

Crayfish a la Pa If you can get them, boil several

dozen freshwater crayfish. (You’ll have to catch them, because they’re not sold in shops.) Or take a large sea crayfish and cut the meat into pieces. Cream enough potatoes to make a goodly mound, mixing in with them a small minced onion. Pile the potato on a large dish, quickly terracing it after the manner of a Maori pa for fortification.

Arrange the crayfish on the terraces in the manner of defenders or the pieces of crayfish in the likely event of the little fellows proving too elusive. Mass round the base sliced lettuce or whole leaves if you prefer your salad unmassacred. This is the forest surrounding the pa, and in its place, as attackers, the rest of the crayfish. As-

sume you are a third force or a fifth column and demolish with knife and fork friend, foe and fort.

Pork and Puha

Take a knife and vanish in the lupins. You are looking for puha, which is also called sow thistle or rauriki. You will find it growing in the shade in long grass, usually in damp, dank places and often in association with old tin cans, beer bottles and abandoned buckets. Faint not nor fear, you’re going to boil it, anyway.

Alternatively, gather watercress from a fresh flowing stream and boil the blazes out of it in close association with pork bones chosen for the amount of meat your butcher has been persuaded to leave on them. Or you could buy one or two pork strips; what in the United States would be called sow belly. I suggest that you then throw discretion to the wind and manners out the door and, holding each bone in turn between thumb and forefinger, nibble the meat off. A certain restrained amount of noise is permissible. The vegetable may be eaten with a fork. Seriously, the liquid makes the most delicious soup, especially if kept overnight and reheated after the fat has been skimmed.

A matter of infinite regret is that my Maori ancestors never invested a drink of a cheering nature. However, New Zealand wine comes from the same good soil and the grapes are brought to bursting point by the same good sun. Try a dry white with the crayfish and muttonbird, a dry red with the pork and puha. Try them both with the hangi meal, before, during and after.

And if you decide not to try any of the foods suggested, have the wine, anyway. And may Te Atuapukunui, who is a newly invented ancient Maori god of good food and good fellowship, look kindly upon your endeavours.

Pua Shake as much pollen (yellow) from the raupo heads as is required and to every pound of pollen use Vi cup of cold water to mix. Put into a greased bowl and steam for about 2 hours. (The Maori used to wrap the raupo leaves around the mixture and steam in the hangi.) This tastes just like ordinary bread.

Pukeko Stew Skin the bird. When cutting off the legs, make sure the sinews are removed. If they are left, watch carefully when eating as they are like sharp fish bones. Cut in joints, roll in flour and brown in hot fat. Brown also several sliced onions. Drain, barely cover with water, season well and simmer until tender. Thicken the gravy with flour mixed to a paste with water.