TRADITIONAL MAORI CLOTHING

Te Ao Hou, 1973, Page 54

TRADITIONAL MAORI CLOTHING by Dr S. M. Mead A. H. & A. W. Reed, $6.95 reviewed by Rev. Kingi Ihaka In 1970 a pageant was held in the Auckland Museum under the name of ‘Mauri Ora ‘70’, during which a major part of the programme displayed both pre-European and post-European clothing of the Maori. In 1971, to mark the Centenary of the City of Auckland, a similar pageant was held in the Town Hall. On both occasions, present to direct the pageants was Dr S. M. Mead. It was appropriate that Dr Mead should direct both pageants, for he is today regarded as one of the foremost experts on traditional Maori clothing. The book ‘Traditional Maori Clothing’, contains the most comprehensive and detailed account of Maori clothing ever published, containing four major sections. It is ‘a study of technological change’ of Maori clothing. As the preface records, it is a study of clothing based on a corpus of material which includes ethnographical accounts, museum collections, early pictorial records, photographic files and some extensive field work carried out by the author. Much of the material relevant to the modern period has been seen by the author in the so-called Maori Cultural Competitions. The foreword, written by Ernest S. Dodge of the Peabody Museum of Salem, Massachusetts, records that research and publication on the subject of early Maori clothing ‘has not lacked for students in the past. Names of such giants as Hamilton, Roth, Best and Buck come to mind. With these men the study of weaving and clothing reached a particular plateau of excellence—a level not exceeded for many years.’ Now Sydney Mead carries this study on to a still higher plane. ‘Traditional Maori Clothing’ will prove of inestimable value to all who are interested in what is now loosely termed ‘Maori Culture’. There is no doubt that Dr Mead has spent hours on research and study. There are no less than fifteen pages of illustrations which range from material found in pre-European days through to the 1960s, and it is interesting to note the marked change in Maori clothing at official receptions throughout this period. Some of the clothing listed is to be found today only in museums and in a few private collections, and I am convinced that as a result of this monumental work by Dr Mead, those who are closely associated with and take an active part in the preservation of Maori culture will rely a great deal on this book for guidance in the dress of Maori cultural groups of today. There are also some classical terms for various garments of the Maori which only ethnologists and the very few who still have knowledge of the weaving of Maori garments, would know. To the average Maori the korowai is the only garment worthy of mention, simply because this garment is often used, even today, by Maori cultural clubs. And yet there are scores of others, and names such as parawai, nekoneko, kahu toi, and whanake are foreign to modern Maori ears. It is difficult enough to acquire from our elders some knowledge of local history. It must have been extremely difficult for Dr Mead to acquire the material which he has gathered and collated in this book, and because of this the Maori people, in particular, are indebted to Dr Mead for Traditional Maori Clothing which will undoubtedly prove of lasting value. Dr Mead of course, is already well known as a historian and his previous books on The Art of Maori Carving, The Art of Weaving, etc., are equally well known to those who take an active interest in the art of the Maori. I congratulate Dr Mead and extend sincere gratitude for this work and I commend the book to all those who have any connection with Maori cultural groups, as well as an interest in the material culture of the Maori—yesterday and today.