FROM NEW ZEALAND TO SAN FRNACISCO IN THE MONOWAI.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume VIII, Issue 26, 27 June 1891, Page 112

FROM NEW ZEALAND TO SAN FRNACISCO IN THE MONOWAI.

Dear Bee, _ I promised you some account of ruy travels, did I not ? Well, I will send you the first instalment at once. The weather, of course, comes first in any mention of a seavoyage, as it so greatly affects one’s comfort. Aftei leaving Auckland, we had very rough and strong Trade winds, which lasted until we reached Tutuila, many of the passengers paying unwilling tribute to Neptune. ' After a run of five days, we reached Tutuila at two o’clock in the morning. Was not that provoking? We had, of course, all retired for the night, though anxiety to see our first land since leaving Auckland biought us on deck arrayed in very bizarre attire—the ladies in dressing-gowns of all shapes and colours, the gentlemen mostly in pyjamas. It was too dark to see much of the natives —a fine looking race of men, however, who came on board to sell Samoan curios. Ugh ! the smell of the cocoa-nut oil with which they rub themselves is simply horrible. How odd we all looked, for ire were certainly not clad in ordinary European garments, and the natives were extremely short of clothes. After we left Tutuila the weather was delightful, and the usual voyage amusements were carried on with great zest. We had a sports committee, two very good concerts, cards, quoits, races of every description. Captain Carey is the jolliest, most good-natured man living. Nothing was too much trouble either for him or his crew to do for us~ the latter being the most obliging set of men with whom I have ever travelled. M hen crossing the line, Neptune and his wife canre on board and asked for the captain. We all went to see the performance, which was very exciting. We reached Honolulu after a good passage, though we very unlucky in arriving both at Tutuila and Honolulu at night. We arrived at Honolulu at midnight, and thinking we should have to leave before daylight, none of the passengers went to their berths. But when alongside, we found there was cargo to be taken on, so that we would not leave till the next morning. We then made arrangements with a guide to fetch a drag for us at 7 o’clock next morning, and started off, eight in the party, and had a very jolly time. Honolulu is very much larger than I expected, and a very lovely place. Of course, we saw it in the best time of the year. The foliage is simply magnificent. The palm trees and acacias and cocoa-nut trees are so green. Then the Colia trees, with the beautiful bright brown and red leaves, intermingling with the verdure, is simply beautiful. The houses also are very quaint and pretty. I saw some rice fields, which I have never had the chance of seeing before. I was very much astonished to see it all growing in water. It is kept in water till a certain age, then they drain it off. Then I had never seen cocoa nut trees. They grow so high, with not a single branch until you reach the top. It is quite a monkey’s tree, for I’m sure it would take one to climb them. There is more of the Chinese nationality here than any other, although there are a great many Portuguese, who have been brought over to tend and rear the sugar canes. The Queen veiy kindly sent down her band to play for us on the wharf. I really never heart! anything so fine in my life. It is a well-known fact that it is one of the best bands in the world —all natives, and all wind instruments. Thirty of them are trained by a German. The precision, tone, and expression are simply wonderful. It was simply divine to listen to some of those flutes ! I think the conductor must be a regular genius. Some of the passengers left us at Honolulu, for which we were sorry. It made quite a break, and we were in consequence very quiet that evening. After departure from Honolulu we had lovely weather—calm, warm, with a nice cool breeze—until arrival at San Francisco which was reached on Friday evening. The night before arrival we had a champague supper, when the passengers presented the dear old captain with an address signed by us all. Mr John Ross was asked to make the presentation. Thus ends the happiest three weeks I have ever spent in my life. That is the one sore point of travelling, the partings. But I suppose by the time I reach New Zealand again I shall be quite impervious to it. Most of the passengers went to the Palace and Occidental. There are a thousand bedrooms in the Palace, so you can imagine it must be a good size, and is very showy and grand. Next morning we went on an exploring tour. In the principal street, Kearney-street, we visited the stores, as they call the shops here, and made some purchases. Then we went into two different cars (trams) and travelled as far as they would take us ; then we visited the Golden Gate Park, and Cliff House to see the Seal Rock. It is nothing but sand-hills the whole distance. In fact, nearly the whole of San Francisco is built on sand-hills. The Seal Rock is really a sight worth seeing, although I think seals are hideous-looking creatures. There are hundreds of them on this rock.

’Frisco lias got the most atrocious streets I have ever been in. If you ride in anything but a cable car you need not expect to come home with all your bones whole. The actual town of’Frisco is bigger than Melbourne, and the population is about the same. The traffic, of course, is immense, and the car system is perfect—cable cars in every possible direction. All cars, trains, and steam-cars have bells continually ringing as they go along, so you can imagine the din, especially at the crossings. The cars very often kill a man, but that is nothing here. But I really must close this letter, or I shall tire you. My only wish is that you could be with me to see the things I have been trying to describe.

Wellington.