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1910. NB W ZEALAND.

DEPARTMENT OF LANDS: SCENERY- PRESERVATION. REPORT FOR THE YEAR ENDED 31st MARCH, 1910; TOGETHER WITH STATEMENT OF ACCOUNTS AND SCHEDULE OF LANDS ACQUIRED AND RESERVED DURING THE YEAR UNDER THE SCENERY PRESERVATION ACTS.

Presented to both Houses of the General Assembly pursuant to Section 17 of the Scenery Preservation Act, 1908.

Sir, — Department of Lands, Wellington, 31st May, L9lO. I have the honour to submit herewith report on scenery-preservation for the twelve months ended the 31st March. 1910. I have, &c. William c. Kensington, The Hon. Thomas Mackenzie, Under-Secretary for Lands, Minister in Charge of Scenery-preservation.

REPORT. The past twelve months have witnessed steady and consistent progress with the work of scenerypreservation, although every care has been taken to avoid interference with land suited for settlement purposes, or to acquire areas that would necessitate the expenditure of large sums of money. The land reserved for scenic purposes during the year amounted to 3,470 acres, making, with the areas reserved under the Scenery Preservation and Public Works Acts between 1903 and 1909, a gross area of 42,448 acres. It was, however, found advisable to revoke the Proclamation of three areas of land that had previously been set aside for scenic purposes, and a total of 1,901 acres was withdrawn from reservation in this manner, thus leaving the net area reserved at 40,546 acres. In addition to these areas, many scenic reservations were made under the authority of the Land Act, 1892, between the passing of that Act and the general operation of the Scenery Preservation Act, about 85,000 acres of Crown lands being thus retained in its natural state. It may be well to again draw attention to the fact that the bulk of scenic reserves are composed of land mostly unsuitable for close settlement, and that in very few cases could the lands be utilised for settlement save in large blocks, and sold at low prices or leased at small rentals. The majority of the reserves are composed of hilly, broken country, covered with bush that prevents the soil from slipping into the gullies and streams, and tends to insure the conservation of the water-catchment a ivas under satisfactory conditions, and they are immensely more useful to New Zealand in their present state than if they were denuded of forest, when they would form a continual trouble to the farmer, owing to their barren slopes allowing the rain-water to pour unchecked down the ridges and gullies, assisting to swell the flood-waters, and thus cause much damage. The foregoing remarks, though relating to matters that have previously been discussed, are repeated, as there is still a tendency amongst the general public to attach a certain amount of importance to occasional statements published by irresponsible persons to the effect that large areas of good agricultural or pastoral country are locked up in scenic reservations. This is not the case, and the settlement of the country is not retarded, but rather benefited, by the judicious reservations that are made when fitting opportunity offers of lands along high ridges, wooded slopes and gullies, I—C. 6.

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picturesque peaks, and along the banks of streams and rivers, or around waterfalls, thermal springs, and stalactite caves, &c. Not only for .-esthetic but also for economic reasons it is frequently of advantage to retain a certain proportion of the lands of the country in its natural state. Expenditure during Year. The expenditure for the twelve months was £10 more than for the preceding year, but a very large proportion was for cost of surveys along the Wanganui River, North Island Main Trunk route. &c. Owing to the greater care now being taken of our scenic areas, a correspondingly greater expenditure is needed for fencing purposes, eradication of noxious weeds, &c, but the enhanced beauty of the reserves well repays the expenditure. The strictest care is exercised in spending the vote, and it can salely be said that the State has derived very great value from its outlay. Office-expenses are almost nil ; the meetings of the Board were arranged for times when the members were in Wellington on other business, and all the money has been spent either on the acquisition of land, its preservation in a state of nature, free from the incursions of stock and the growth of noxious weeds, or in surveying, valuing, and acquiring new areas. The^following table show's all expenditure since the passing of the Act of 1903 :—

Comparison of Expenditure.

Recent Scenic Reservations. During the year some very pretty areas of forest lands have been secured and set apart under the Scenery Preservation Act. In the Auckland District two sections of the Selwyn Estate, on the Rotorua Lichfield Road, two small areas of bush in the vicinity of the Waitomo Caves, and a small piece of Native land adjoining Lake Rotoma were added to existing reservations. In Taranaki, three sections of Crown land, totalling less than 250 acres, were proclaimed. In Wellington District, the \Vhalite Mountain (overlooking Woodville), and the Manawatu Gorge (near Palmerston North) were permanently reserved, and six other areas (mostly Crown land) in various parts of the district. The famous Peel Forest, in Canterbury, was purchased and set apart; and the remaining reservations comprised two small areas of freehold land in Otago, one being on the bank of the Taieri River, not far from its mouth, and the other on the Karoro Stream, in the Clutha County, close to the sea-coast. Two survey parties have been at work during the summer on the banks of the Wanganui River, busily surveying and defining the boundaries of scattered areas of Native land containing the best of the scenery between Wanganui and Pipiriki. In all these cases, however, as far as possible, only the land actually between the river itself and the top of the ridge forming the skyline, as seen from the passing steamers and boats, has been taken, and great care has been exercised in hiving off the divisionlines in such a manner that the adjoining holdings may not be detrimentally affected. It is thus hoped to preserve most of the natural beauty of the scenery on the river, but by so doing another object will be gamed —namely, the protection of the river-banks. This is of a far-reaching nature, and the consequences are difficult to overestimate. The river now forms one of the principal waterways of NewZealand : and yet its maintenance is entirely dependent upon the banks retaining their natural covering ol' forest ami vegetation. The more the bank is denuded of vegetation, so much the more will the course of the river be impeded and navigation checked. It is. therefore, hoped that the efforts of the Government will be recognised as being in the best Interests of the State and locality. During the year arrangements have been concluded for the acquisition by the Crown, by means of exchange, of an area of 181 acres 3 roods 4 perches in the vicinity of Mount Somers, Canterbury, in order to secure the preservation of the bush and scenic attractions which the area contains. The area includes what are known as the " Sharplin Falls," where one of the tributaries of the Ashburton River issues through a rocky gorge from the bush-clad slopes of Mount Somers and the Winterslow Range, the whole forming a very good specimen of wild bush scenery. The locality is already becoming a favourite holiday resort for inhabitants of the Ashburton County, and when its attractions become more widely known visitors, no doubt, will come to it from all parts of the district. The Kennedy's Bush and Peel Forest scenic reserves are in good order, and the latter especially has been visited by large numbers of people during the holiday season. Appendices. The report of the Inspector of Scenic Reserves will he found in Appendix B. and contains a most interestin» risumS of his inspections over the scenic reserves in the Dominion. Generally speaking, they have been found to be in excellent condition, and in cases where it is essential that they should be further protected by fencing, eradication of noxious weeds, and so forth, this has been done. Notices regarding their protection under the Scenery Preservation Act have been posted up in conspicuous positions, and every care is taken that they shall remain in as attractive a condition as is possible.

190.1-5. 1905- li 1906-7. 1907 8. 1908-9. £ £ £ £ £ 1009-10. t Compensation for land Expenses of Commission and Board ... Salaries of officers... Administration (including fencing) Miscellaneous (surveys, valuations. &c.) 216 3,336 7.856 4,286 3,813 1,822 1,221 185 86 24 175 325 304 38-2 1,063 r>2 527 801 555 540 1 .688 325 l. 15H 2,603 Totals 2,090 5,084 9,146 5,484 5,765 5,775

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Another valuable and extremely interesting report is to be found in Appendix C. in which Mr. \V. 11. Skinner gives a graphic and painstaking account of the historical incidents attaching to the reserves in Taranaki. It will be seen that, quite apart from their scenic beauty, many of the reserves in this district are of a distinctly important nature, being the scenes of bygone fights and sieges, and well merit the utmost care being taken to preserve these links with the past. The report of the Scenery Preservation Board is published in Appendix D, and shows that, though most of tin- picturesque scenery of New Zealand has now been preserved under the Act. or recommended I'm- reservation, or some other means of protection, yet from time to time when scattered areas ol scenic beauty are discovered their ultimate use or preservation is carefully considered, and no efforts are spared to insure that suitable cases are dealt with in the manner best fitted for their special circumstances. The expenses of the Board have been nil, and every care is exercised in the economical management of the.Act.

API'EN DICES.

APPENDIX A. Reserves made in 1909-10 under the Scenery Preservation Act, 1908, and the Public Works Act, 1908.

Recom- Date of nendatioi. Local Name or Locality. District. trm. Prrc amation in No. Gazette. Auckland Land District. A fi ,, 339 Selwyn Scenic Heseivesj Sections 76,77, Block III, Patetere 959 2 20 I 22 July, 1909. North-east Survey District 331 Waitomo Bush .. PartHautuiuEastBNo. 2Block, 21 3 2 ' 10 Feb., 1910. Section 2a, &c. 329 llangaliki Waitomo Part Hauturu East No. Ie Block, 2<>7 3 10 10 „ Road Oralnri Survey Districi 200 Rotoma Scenic Reserve Part Waitangi Block, in Block X, M I II 31 Mar., „ Rotoma Survey District 1,223 2 6 Tarnnaki Land District. i Part Section 2, Block III, Upper : 21 3 0 22 Jul}. 1909. ,,- ., , • ,, ., Waitara Survev District 95 Moki Scenic Reserve , .„ m ,•,,. .. .... , . 0 .. I Section 12, Block III, Upper Wai- •> 2 17 18 Nov.. ,, ' tara Survey Districi 94 Ohura Scenic Reserve Section 8, Block VIII, and Sec- | 218 3 6 18 .. tion 6, Block XII, Ohura Survey District 246 0 23 Wellington Land District. 97 .. Section 19, Block VIII, Hautapu 48 J 8 1 8 April, 1909. Survey Districi 267 .. i Section 20, Block XVI, Tirirau- 114 3 0 8 „ kawa Survey District 12 Otaihape Valley .. | Awarua 4c No. 15a Block, Block I, 208 2 0 LI Nov., Hautapu Survey District 96 Makino Scenic Re- , Section 13, Block I, Ruahine Sur- 8-1 o o zo ,. serve. vey District 99 Mangoira Scenic Re- Section 49, Block IV, Apiti Survey 81 0 0 25 „ serve District 102 Wharite Mountain .. Section 6, Block VII, Gorge, and 678 0 0 L6 Dec, Section 5, Block XV, Pohangina Survey District 100 Perry's Waterfall .. Part Sections 1, 10, Block XI, Ma- 7 3 4 31.Mac. 1910 kuri Survey District 1.222 1 12

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Appendix A.—Reserves made in 1909-10 under the Scenery Preservation Act, 1908, and the Public Works Act, 1908— continued.

Net Area Reserved on the 31s/ March, 1910. i. a. c. 148 reserves, of a total area of .. .. .. .. .. 40,546 126 STATEMENT OF Accounts showing the Amounts expended, and the Purposes to which the Money so expended has been applied, for the Year ended 31st March, 1910. Purchase of land (private land), — i s. d. £ s. d. Peel Forest Scenic Reserve .. .. .. ~ 600 0 0 Pounawee Scenic Reserve . . . . . . . . 15 0 0 Pourakino River Scenic Reserves .. .. .. .. .. 522 4 lo Section 13, Block* I, Aohanga Survey District .. .. .. 37 10 0 Taieri River-banks Scenic Reserve .. .. .. 60 0 0 Wairoa River-banks Scenic Reserve .. .. .. .. 109 5 0 1,343 19 10

Reeom- Date of tendation Local Name or Locality. District. Area. Proclamation No. in Gazette. Area. Date of Proclamation in Gazette. Canterbury Land District, a. r. i'. 211 Peel Forest .. Sections 18281, 2680, 2713,4085, 480 2 0 5 Aug., 1909. part 3683, part 3208. Sections 23477, 23421. 22900, 22814, 22903, 22899, 23066, 23009, 23008, 23420, 23478, 22469, parts 1972, 3208, all in Blocks I, II, Orari Survey District 480 2 0 | ■ Otago Land District. IflO Taieri Rivet-banks .. Sections 28a, 29, and 30. Block A, 175 2 3d 8 April. 1909. Taieri Native Reserve 173 Karoro Stream .. Part Section 48, Block IV, Oleno- 122 120 7 Oct.. maru Survey District '■> Dec.. 298 0 Iti Summary of Reserves. District. Number. Area. A. li. P. Auckland Land District .. .. .. .. I 1,223 2 6 Taranaki Land District .. .. . . . . 3 246 0 23 Wellington Land District .. .. .. 7 1.222 112 Canterbury Land District .. .. .. .. 1 180 2 0 Otago Land District .. .. .. .. 2 298 0 16 Totals, 1909 10 .. .. ..17 3.170 2 17 Reserved up to 31st March. 1909 .. .. .. 134 38,977 0 30 Grand totals .. .. .. 151 12,147 3 7 Reservations revoked. Recommendation' No. Reconi- Date of nendation Looal Name or Looality. Distriot. Ana. Notice in No. Gazette. 105 316 196 \. v.. p. 105 Waro limestone rocks Sections 40, 41, Block XVI. IIu- 18 u 9 :5Kel... 1910. kerenui Survey District 316 Waiotapu Scenic He- Part Rotomahana - Parekarangi 335 3 12 10 Mar., ,, serve No. 3a Block, &c. in the Paeroa Survey District 196 Wanganui River-banks In Tauakira and Waipakuva 1.517 2 0 21 Mar.. ,, Survey Districts 1,901 1 21

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Looking down Taieri River from Governor's Chimney.

Looking up the Taieri River from Governor's Chimney.

The Source of the Wangaehu River on Ruapehu.

Large Manukas in Leitch's Bush, Taieri Scenic Reserve (Sections 28, 29, and 30).

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Statement of Accounts, &c. — contiinntl. Purchase of land (Native land),-- * s - A £ » <l. Kumutoto Scenic Reserve .. .. .: .. .. 259 1 11 Pukemiro Scenic Reserve .. .. .. .. .. 57 110 Tongoio Falls Scenic Reserve .. .. .. ». i: 19 15 7 Wairua. Falls Scenic Reserve .. .. .. .. .. 10 16 10 346 16 2 Credit —Part purchase-money for Kumutoto Scenic Reserve unclaimed .. 210 0 — 344 6 2 Administration of reserves (including fencing) .. .. .. .. .. 1,158 16 10 Salaries—lnspector and Surveyor, £300 ; Secretary, £25 .. .. .. 325 0 0 Surveys, valuations, and incidental expenses .. .. .. .. .. 2,603 10 8 Total .. .. .. .. .. .. .. £5,775 13 6

APPENDIX B. Report by the Inspector of Scenic Reserves. In the early part of last year I was engaged in the supervision of the completion of the scenic surveys along the Main Trunk line. In the winter months most of my time was taken up in the preparation of maps of parts of Crown lands along the Main Trunk line that are to be set apart for scenery-preservation. Along the railway there remain to be taken a few small pieces of Native land between Turangarere and Mangaweka, and another small piece at Waimaiino Station. There are also some pieces of Crown lands along the railway between Waimarino and Kakahi thai have yet to be proclaimed as scenic reserves. In addition to my field inspections, 1 surveyed the Pipinui Falls Reserve and the Pahiatua Hill, besides contributing sundry reports on special matters. In the spring and summer I resumed field-work and inspected most of the scenic reserves in the Taranaki. Hawke's Bay, and Marlliorough Districts--thirty-nine reserves, with an area of 12,948 acres. Three or four in the northern end of Taranaki and one near the Fast Cape. I had to omit, as when in the district the rivers were so flooded that access was cut off. There remain to be inspected the reserves in Nelson, Southland, and Westland. In February, in conjunction with Mr. Y. Booker, I started the surveys of the pieces of Native land proposed as reserves along the Wanganui River. By June all the lauds advisable to be taken between Pipiriki and Wanganui will have been surveyed off. The country is some of the roughest in the North Island, and the bush is a dense tangle of vines, so surveying operations are consequently slow. As the surveys of these reserves will all be utilised hi the subdivision of the Native blocks, it seems only fair that the latter should bear a proportion of the cost of survey. In seven cases it was found that the bush had been felled on reserves proposed by the Scenery Preservation Board, and in four cases the bush had been cleared or partly cleared on land that had been actually surveyed two years ago for preservation. Condition of Reserves. —On the whole, the condition of the reserves examined last year was satisfactory. This was especially the case in the Taranaki District, where we are fortunate in having two gentlemen like Mr. W. 11. Skinner and Mr. F. Carrington, who devote a good deal of their leisure time to the guardianship of the reserves near New Plymouth. In this town a keen interest in the reserves is also shown by many private people, and the local beautifying society has even raised funds for the fencing of some of the reserves. The reserves in the Marlborough District are mostly around the Sounds, and are generally well preserved. In one or two instances adjoining settlers" tires had spread into the reserves and done some damage, and damage is still being done by herds of wild goats and incursions of tame cattle. Coats are most destructive, as they eat not only shrubs, but even kill trees as large as the houhou by eating off the bark from the trunk. There is a Ranger looking after the safety of the reserves in Queen Charlotte Sound, but there is no one supervising the many beautiful spots in Pelorus Sound. The beauty of these sounds is entirely dependent on the existence of the native bush. The sounds are already a great pleasure and health resort and will some day become much more so, and it is therefore advisable that special attention should be given to their protection. Having seen all the beautiful harbours of the world, 1 venture to say that in none of them is a more beautiful view displayed than that from the summit of Mount Stoke. What few reserves there are in the Hawke's Bay District are (excepting a small one near Woodville and another near Ormondville, both of which are spoiled—the latter being in grass) in good order. The reserve at Aorangi Mountain (Poverty Bay) is very fine, and of great interest from the point of view of the naturalist ; but for many years it is likely to remain difficult of access. Mr. T. Sherwood. who has a station adjoining the reserve, is kindly acting as honorary Ranger. He is greatly interested in natural history, and makes a most desirable guardian. As regards this Hawke's Bay District (over 6,000,000 acres in extent) it is most lamentable how little of the indigenous forest has been reserved for permanent preservation. Noxious Weeds. —In some of the reserves near New Plymouth blackberries have become rather a serious pest, and unremitting attention will be recpiired to keep them in check. The reserves further out are practically clean. Blackberries are rather bad on the Tongoio Falls Reserve, near Napier,

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but the other Hawke's Bay reserves arc clean. Excepting a few gorse bushes on the Tuamarina River (which should be grubbed out) the Marlborough reserves are free of noxious weeds* As regards this matter of noxious weeds, I must state that they get into the reserves through stock being allowed iccess. In pure virgin bush probably none of these pests could stand the altered environment—absence of sunlight and dampness in particular ; but when the stock have eaten and broken-down the native undergrowth the seeds of noxious weeds that the}- carry on then hoofs and drop in their dung find a situation where they can germinate and thrive. Animal Pests.- —Of the reserves visited, the only ones troubled with animal pests are those in the Marlborough Sounds, which are largely infested with goats. People should be encouraged to destroy these. Fires. —The reserves visited in Taranaki District are practically undamaged by lire, are those in Hawke's Bay ; in one or two cases the Marlborough Sounds reserves have been a little damaged from fires on the property of adjoining owners. Most of the sounds reserves are very steep, with the consequence that in summer the bush gets very dry, and is very liable to catch fire. 1 would therefore suggest that rough fireplaces be made at the picnicking-spots most frequented. Wherever adjoimng owners' names and addresses could be found I have sent them the printed circular notifying them that they are liable for damage done by fires originating on their properties. Native Birds. —The tui, the fantail, the blackheaded tomtit, and the grey warmer are all plentiful in all the reserves. Pigeons are still plentiful up the Wanganui River, but in all other reserves they were not seen, or were scarce. Hakas are in most places absent, and nowhere plentiful. Up the Wanganui River the korimako, or bell-bird, is perhaps the commonest native bird, and their lively notes are very cheering to the wanderer in the forest. In this region, also, the white-head is quite common, and the parrakeet not rare. Wild ducks and teal are, seen on the Wanganui River in small numbers, and, as they form such an interesting feature in a scene rather deficient in life, they should not be allowed to be shot. Tourists coming down the river are interested in seeing even the destructive and unprepossessing cormorant, which is the most abundant water-bird. The kotare (kingfisher) is present, but not at all plentiful on this river. The Indian minah has spread as far as Ranana (about forty-five miles up the river), and blackbirds, thrushes, yellow-hammers, sparrows, chaffinches, and goldfinches are always to be seen or heard where there is any old settlement or any opening in the bush. Most of our native birds cannot accommodate themselves to the altered conditions entailed by the advance of settlement, and on this account I think the shooting of native birds on all scenic reserves should be absolutely prohibited. Recommendations. The greatest danger threatening our reserves is from fire, and mi tins account I strongly advise that in future no adjoining settler be allowed to cut down or burn off the usual 1 chain within the reserve boundary. It is quite suilicient for fencing if 4 ft. within the boundary is cleared, but beyond that there should only be cut such large trees as are likely to threaten the future security of the fence. When the usual chain is felled it has to be grassed, and afterwards stock have to be put on to keep down the grass, with the certain result that (except an inner fence be erected) the}' wander into and damage the bush by eating out the undergrowth, and assist in the establishment of noxious weeds. Settlers are responsible for any damage their bush-fires may do to the property of private neighbours, but they enjoy a happy innnunity if they damage the property of the State, and, consequently, it is rare that they bother to take any precautions. As the reserves along the Wanganui River, the Mam Trunk Railway, and the Tongariro Park possess quite" an exceptional value, being on routes so much frequented by tourists, I would suggest the appointment of a special Ranger to look after them. The most of the land adjoining these reserves are Native, and are (or will be shortly) leased to Europeans for short periods, consequently the lessees will do as little as possible in the way of improvements, the common boundaries between the leased lands and reserves will be unfenced, and the settlers' stock (as happens now in Waimarino) will make a winter run of the reserves, destroying the undergrowth and eventually the trees. The destruction of the bush on several of the proposed reserves along the Main and the Wanganui River has shown how defective are the present legal means of acquiring land for scenery-preservation. The Act should be amended so that, after it has been decided to acquire a piece of land for scenic purposes, by giving the owner and lessee notiie they should be prevented from interfering in any way with the part proposed acquired—a sort of proceeding equivalent to the lodging of a caveat against a title. A clause should also be inserted in the Act prohibiting the destruction of all native birds in scenic reserves. There are several forest reserves and State forests that do not contain timber of any value for nulling purposes, and, m consequence, these reserves are of value only for scenery and climatic purposes, and on this account it would be advisable that they should all be changed into scenic reserves, as t here is then the assurance that their first covering would be as far as possible inviolable, which ;s not at present the case, as they are sometimes leased for grazing or other purposes. In Europe and America the preservation of the forest on steep hills is not a mere ephemeral fad, but scientific and lay papers continue to show the really lively interest that is taken in the subject. In this Dominion the country dwellers are generally indifferent to. or hostile to. forest-preservation. If one points out to them w hat has been the result of deforestation in other countries, one is considered a faddist. The evil effects of deforestation in the back districts have not yet been sufficiently serious to impress them. At a recent irrigation congress in America a politician with an undeveloped intellect made a violent attack against the Government restrictions for forest-preservation. After his speech Gilford Pinchot. the celebrated American forest authority, got on the platform. He removed the cloth from the table on the platform, tilted the table forward, and poured half a glass ol water upon it. The water, of course,

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ran off on to the floor. " Such.'' said he, "is the action of rain on an uncovered hillside." He then laid a blotter on the table, and poured the rest of the water upon it. The blotter absorbed it. but in a few minutes it began to drip slowly from the lower end. " That is what a forest-covering does for a hill," he said. By the time he had done speaking in this plain, practical win- he had quite won over the audience. Some sixty years ago in China the huge river Hoang-Ho shifted its course about three hundred miles, and did incalculable damage to life and property. Of recent years the railway from Kaifeng to the Peking-Hankow Railway had no sooner been constructed than it was completely destroyed by unexpected floods. Engineers are experiencing the utmost difficulty in railway-making in China, owing to the liability to floods of the low country, which liability has been caused by the reckless destruction of the forests at the sources of the rivers. In Hawke's Bay and the Manawatu Districts we find even now that the raising of the river-beds by detritus brought from the deforested mountains by floods is causing very serious trouble. The observant traveller may see in most districts in New /calami steep hillsides (which have been deforested). after having lost their surface soil through landslips, last becoming covered with tea-tree and fern, and often noxious weeds, which in such situations are almost impossible to eradicate. In other localities where there were rills flowing all the year from steep hillsides there are now in wet weather rapid torrents and in dry weather waterless ditches. Our pioneers (who now. of course, are doing the most damage by destroying forests) are difficult to convert ; in fact, often they do not wish to be converted, as many nave not taken up the land with the idea of making a permanent home on it. but for the purpose of selling out at a profit after doing the improvements required by the Act. It can' be understood that such ones would not trouble about the evils resulting from wholesale denudation. The present Laud Act encourages a settler to clear all his holding. It would be well if it were amended so that every future selector of second- and third-class rural lands be compelled to leave in loiest lo per cent, of his holding. He should not be charged any rental for the percentage left, but should be called upon to fence it with a cattleproof fence. He could get his firewood and some fencingmaterial from the preserved part. The best channel for disseminating a knowledge and appreciation of the value of the preservation of forests is the public school. The children are already given nature lessons, and are encouraged to interest themselves in gardening, and I think there might also be added a few simple lessons explaining the value of bush as a reservoir for the supply of water for streams, its action in preventing or lessening Hoods, its climatic influence. &c, all must important questions, but not beyond the mental capacity of a child of twelve. F. Phillips Turner, Inspector of Reserves.

APPENDIX C. An Account of the Historic Reserves in the Taranaki District; Amongst authorities in Maori matters, the coastal districts of Taranaki are recognised as being pre-eminently the centre or borne of the ancient Xew Zealand pa or fortified-village builder. The remains of scores, we might almost say hundreds, of these ancient strongholds are. still to be seen scattered throughout the Taranaki District. The great majority of these have been more or less damaged, in some places destroyed, by the ravages of stock and the advance of settlement. Usually in fact, almost invariably- these hill pas were at the time of the advent of the European upon the scene clothed with a luxurious and beautiful growth of verdure. This. alas, has disappeared, except in a few favoured localities, where the steepness of t he great protecting banks and ditches has prevented cattle from breaking through, or where the pa has been transformed into the uru-pa or burial-place of I lie tribe, when tic Native, ever jealous of the resting-place of his dead, has carefully fenced oil such cemetery to keen out trespassing stock. Since the passing into law of the Scenery Preservation Act a small number of the more important pas in th and middle Taranaki have been taken over by the Crown and proclaimed as historic reserves. There still remain several splendid specimens of the ancient pa, showing by the extent of their outworks and the clever adaptation of the surrounding topographical features what strenuous workers and high-class engineers along this particular line, the old-time Maoris were. Of the many historic reservations proclaimed in the Taranaki District, the Kawau Pa, the chief stronghold and advance-post of the fighting Ngatitama Tribe, and famous for its mau\- sieges, and having for generations been the bulwarks that held in check the northern tribes from pouring in upon the rich country of Ngatiawa and middle Taranaki, stands out prominently in Maori history. Its fame went forth in song and store over the length and breadth of Maoridom. The Kawau I'a occupied the summit of a small island situated on the sea coast about four miles south of the Mokau River. This island was partially surrounded by the sea a 1 high water, and separated from the main land by a chasm from SO ft. to lot) ft. deep and 60 ft. wide. Along the bottom of this chasm the Kuwhatahi Stream Hows into the sea, and at high tide the waves sweep through it with great force. On all sides of the Kawau Island the cliffs average 80 ft. in height, excepting at its northern angle, where the cliff is only sheer for 20ft. of its height, terminating in a ledge, on which stood the lower gateway or entrance to the pa, and thence, by a steep and tortuous way the main entrance to the fort was gained at summit of island. The lower approach up face of cliff was made by notched saplings or ladders, and by this means the inhabitants entered and left the pa, and at night and in times of danger these ladders were drawn up and safely stowed. The seaward fate of the island was crescent-shaped, the south-west horn of which projected some distance into the sea. terminating in a narrow but high rocky ledge. On this point, in times of danger,

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were lighted the signal-fires to warn their tribesmen to the. south of the presence of the enemy. As the shades of night fell over the scene the signal-fire cast its lurid glow over sea and wooded range around. In a few short moments the warning was repeated from the semi-island tort of Omahu, and from thence across the bay in quick succession was answered by the great pas of Patangata, Katikatiaka. Pukearuhe. and Otumatua, from Ihe last of which the war-fire could be seen along the whole line of coast, and a waxinland to the Waitara River district, and thus, as in Macaulay's " Armada." — For swift to cast and swift to west the ghastly war-flame spread. ****** (On) Cape beyond cape in endless range were seen those twinkling points of fire. This was the Kawau, the Thermopyhe of North Taranaki, or we may go further and term it the key of the whole south-western portion of the North Island, for here Ngatitama bade defiance foT some two hundred years to the powerful Ngatimaniapoto and allied tribes to the north. On the hard sandy beach below, called Rangikaiwaka. which stretched from the island northwards, was fought many a pitched battle, and here had been Ilea id times beyond number the thundering chorus of the nqeri (war song and dance), the forerunner of the coming fight. The great warrioT chief of the Ngatihaua (Waharoa—William Thompson —known as the " kingmaker " during the Maori troubles in the Waikato of 1860-68) took his name from an incident that occurred here. This man's father, the head chief or one of the highest rank in the Ngatihaua, was taken prisoner in one of the innumerable fights that took place on the Poutama Beach close at hand. He was taken to the pa and crucified (head downwards) in the main gateway, or waharoa, of the pa. hence the name " Waharoa." The member of another family of high rank —that of Wahanui -also took his name from a sonic what similar incident. A leading chief of Ngatimaniapoto. called Pahitahanga, fell into the hands of the Ngatitama on the occasion of an unsuccessful attempt to take the pa by surprise. His body was cut up and eaten with great ceremony at the festival of te ohu, ot the planting of the kumara. His son took his name from this event, and was called Te Ohu. In the latter days of its history the Kawau rose tf> a high pitch of notoriety, leflected from the marvellous deeds and adventures of the two brothers Raparapa and Tupoki. the former the idol and leader of his tribe, and the terror of his enemies. No one could equal them in the use of the ancient Maori weapons. Their names have become a proverb in this respect, but the men and the tribe had to bow to the advance of civilisation. The advent of the musket changed entirely the old order of things. The coming of firearms and the death of their great leader sounded the knell of this impregnable stronghold. The Ngatitama, following the lead of their Ngatitoa allies under Te Rauparaha. and under pressure of their better armed and more numerous foes from the north, gradually left the homes of their ancestors —a land very dear and precious in their sight—migrating southward to the vicinity cf Wellington City. A .miserable remnant of this warlike people only was left when in the very late twenties of the last century this historic pa was taken by a war party of Ngatimaniapoto, and the small garrison led down to the beach below and there slaughtered. Since that date the position has never been reoccupied, and with its fall began the disastrous raids of Waikato and allied tribes into Taranaki proper, ending rapidly in the sweeping-away of its people, its habitations, and cultivations. The fall of the Kawau was the prelude to the devastation of the country from Mokau to Patea. In the words of a well-known Ngatiawa chief, referring to Taranaki soon after this event, " All was quite deserted ; the land, the sea, the streams and lakes, the forest, the rocks were all deserted : the dead, the sick were deserted : and the landmarks were deserted." Another historic pa—that of Okoke, situated about two miles north of Urenui Township has been taken and permanently set aside as an historic reserve. This extensive fort, now covered with a luxuriant growth of native bush, was the principal fighting pa of the Ngatimutunga Tribe. It was built originally by the Kerewai Hapu of Ngatimutunga, whose home in latter days was the Mimi Valley, and the Ngatihinetuhi Hapu of the same tribe, as a stronghold to which all could flee in time, of danger. Its position was one of great natural strength, and by infinite labour and skill was made complete for defensive purposes under the then existing conditions of warfare, with its great palisaded banks and deep counter-ditches, its covered ways to water and intricate leads and passages fin entrance and exit. Ngatimutunga was the last tribe to occupy the pa, and they were living there in force at the height of their power as a tribe when Te Rauparaha and the Ngatitoa migration arrived in 1822 on their way south to Kapiti. In the immediate neighbourhood of the pa. and under its shelter, the Ngatitoa and their famous leader rested for a season, with the purpose of growing food and making final prepara tions for passing through the hostile tribes to the south that lay between them and their goal. It was during this period, 1822. that occurred the great fight of Motunui on the plain immediately seaward of the. pa. when the Ngatimutunga and its allies of Ngatiawa, with Ngatitoa. met in desperate combat the northern invaders of Waikato and Ngatimaniapoto. This story is told at length in Part 3, vol. 18, of the. Polynesian Journal. Owing to the migration to the south of the Ngatimutunga, the whole people practically throwing in their lot with Rauparaha. Okoke was finally deserted in 1831, the small remnant of its inhabitants fleeing to Pukerangiora, before the great invading host of Waikato and allied tribes under Te Whero Whero and other leaders, that swept over North and Middle Taranaki in 1871-72. It was the people from Okoke who seized the brig " Rodney " at Port Nicholson in 1835, and compelled its master to take them to the Chatham Islands, where they occupied the country, and in a short space of time practically exterminated its original inhabitants the Moriori. Yet another pa in the neighbourhood of Urenui has been reserved under the Scenery Preservation Act —a pa of singular beauty and charming environment -Pukemiro, on the Onaero River, near its confluence with the Tasman Sea. A beauty spot in truth ! This was the head centre and fighting pa of the now practically extinct Ngatikaitangata (the man-eaters) Hapu of the Ngatimutunga. Unfortunately little is known of its history,

9

C—(s.

On the north bank of the Waitara River, about seven miles from its mouth, and in close proximity to the Tikorangi Village, stands the ancient pa called Awa-te-take, standing on the verge of the precipice that borders the Waitara River in this locality, in height some 200 ft. This old stronghold may be reckoned amongst the great fighting pas of Taranaki, and its acquisition under the Act by the Crown as a scenery and historic reservation is of considerable importance, as its fortifications are in such a fine state of preservation. Many generations ago the pa was captured by surprise by the Taranaki Tribe, and in this connection there are some " sayings " about it that illustrate some peculiarities in the Maori language. The story as set out in vol. 18 (No. 1), page 21, of the Polynesian Journal runs as follows : " Te TuitiMoeroa was the chief of Awa-te-take Pa, and he had apparently been threatened by some one of the Taranaki chiefs whose residence was in the forest. On this threat being made known to Te Tuiti, he said, ' I shall not be killed by a man who is a mouku-treader,' mouku being the Maori name for the common forest fern—or, in other words, by a forest-dweller. Nevertheless, his pa was attacked by Taranaki in the night, he and his son alone being there, when the ' fern-treader' called out to Te Tuiti in his house, ' Now will you die by the mouku-treader.' Te Tuiti shouted in reply, ' Had you come by daylight you might have seen Te Tuiti, but as for this, you have come by night, and will not see Te Tuiti.' Saying this, Te Tuiti got out at the back of the house, and made his escape." These old pas, with Puketi (Town of New Plymouth) and Tataraemaka, twelve miles to the south, complete the number taken for historic purposes. Negotiations are now in hand for the purchase of Pukerangiora. This transaction when completed will secure to the country apa celebrated in pakeha as well as Maori history. From the site a beautiful and extensive panoramic view over the surrounding country may be obtained. W. H. Skinner. APPENDIX D. Report of the Scenery Preservation Board. The present Board is composed of the Surveyor-General (Mr. John Strauchon), the General Manager of Tourist and Health Resorts (Mr. F. S. Pope), and the Commissioner of Crown Lands for the district in which is situated the land to be dealt with. During the twelve months ended 31st March, 1910, it was only necessary to hold two meetings of the Board, one concerning matters in the Taranaki Land District, and the other relating to land in the Wellington Land District. Eleven recommendations advising the setting-apart of scenic areas under the Scenery Preservation Act were passed, and five of these areas have since been proclaimed as reserves. The other recommendations are now being dealt with by the Government. A pleasing feature of the year's operations was the donation by Mrs. Nini Koro of a portion of Section 7, Pahiatua Native Reserve, on which is situated the well-known Pahiatua Hill, and the legendary cave of Rongomai. Although the land had passed from Mrs. Koro's possession into that of the Messrs. Warren, the latter proprietors generously consented to relinquish any claim they might have had to the land, and also agreed to add a small portion of the surrounding land to the proposed reserve in order to complete the reservation of the most picturesque portion of the hill. The formal gazetting has not yet been made, but it is hoped that this will be effected at an early date. Meetings of the Board to deal with lands in the Otago, Nelson, and other districts are about to be held, and every care is taken that thorough inquiry is made into all lands at all suitable for scenic reservation, and not adapted for close settlement, which the Minister directs from time to time shall be. reported upon. John Strauchon, Chairman, Scenery Preservation Board. Approximate Coat of Paper.— Preparation, not given ; printing (1,500 copies, including illustrations), £13 17s. 6d.

Price 6d]

By Authority : John Mackay, Government Printer, Wellington.— 1910.

2—o. (».

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Bibliographic details

DEPARTMENT OF LANDS: SCENERY-PRESERVATION. REPORT FOR THE YEAR ENDED 31st MARCH, 1910; TOGETHER WITH STATEMENT OF ACCOUNTS AND SCHEDULE OF LANDS ACQUIRED AND RESERVED DURING THE YEAR UNDER THE SCENERY PRESERVATION ACTS., Appendix to the Journals of the House of Representatives, 1910 Session I, C-06

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DEPARTMENT OF LANDS: SCENERY-PRESERVATION. REPORT FOR THE YEAR ENDED 31st MARCH, 1910; TOGETHER WITH STATEMENT OF ACCOUNTS AND SCHEDULE OF LANDS ACQUIRED AND RESERVED DURING THE YEAR UNDER THE SCENERY PRESERVATION ACTS. Appendix to the Journals of the House of Representatives, 1910 Session I, C-06

DEPARTMENT OF LANDS: SCENERY-PRESERVATION. REPORT FOR THE YEAR ENDED 31st MARCH, 1910; TOGETHER WITH STATEMENT OF ACCOUNTS AND SCHEDULE OF LANDS ACQUIRED AND RESERVED DURING THE YEAR UNDER THE SCENERY PRESERVATION ACTS. Appendix to the Journals of the House of Representatives, 1910 Session I, C-06