REPORT NO THE CHATHAM ISLANDS BY MR. HALSE.

Appendix to the Journals of the House of Representatives, 1867 Session I, A-04

A.—No. 4.

REPORT NO THE CHATHAM ISLANDS BY MR. HALSE.

PRESENTED TO BOTH HOUSES OF THE GENERAL ASSEMBLY, BY COMMAND OF HIS EXCELLENCY.

WELLINGTON. 1867.

A.—No. 4,

REPORT ON THE CHATHAM ISLANDS BY MR. HALSE. Sis, — Native Secretary's Office, Wellington, 22nd May, 1867. In obedience to the instructions contained in your letter No. 157-1, of the 22nd of March, I have the Honour to report to you,for the information of the Government, that I proceeded to the Chatham Islands in the s.s. ' St. Kilda' on the 23rd, and arrived at Waitangi on the 26th of March. This is a very fair bay, with good anchorage for small vessels oft' the bluff, in four fathoms of water, and affords good shelter in all winds except North-west. The settlement presents a pleasing appearance from the seaboard, and is not unlike the country at Taranaki, between the landing place and Moturoa. There are five houses on the beach, and one boat shed, a Custom House, a general store, a public house, the doctor's house, and another close by. On the table land behind the store is a redoubt, occupied by a mixed force of Europeans and Natives, about twenty in number. On the right of it are four detached houses, occupied by officers and other persons connected with the guard. On the left of it, snugly situated under a hill, is a long continuous row of houses occupied by the Native prisoners. Anxious to shake off the smoke of the steamer, I strolled about with one of the passengers, and soon discovered that however picturesque this place is from the seaboard, it is much more so when seen from the shore. The land is undulating, and in many parts covered by a low bush of luxuriant growth, with open spaces well adapted for agricultural purposes. The soil is a rich mould of peat, capable of growing all kinds of crops. The potatoes and cabbages are of the finest description. The Waitangi River, running as it does through peat, is necessarily discoloured, and though not used for drinking ia well adapted for other purposes. Its mouth is accessible at high water with a small boat, but did not appear capable of admitting larger ones. On the right bank of the river stands the Paremata Pa, or rather open village, in the centre of which is a commodious church, and near to it a small Wesleyan chapel. The fencing in the churchyard has been suffered to get sadly out of repair, and the same remark applies to the fencing round the graves, nearly all of which is lying in a state of decay on the ground. Pomare is buried here. He was a man of high rank and influence, and yet his grave is in no better state than the rest. It bears on a board the inscription— "Ko te tohtj mo "WlREMU PlTI POMAEE, "No Hanueee i pabejio ai, no 29, 1851, / " O NA TAU O TO TATOU AeIKI O IhU KaEAITI." " In memory of " William Pitt Pomabe, " Who died on the 29th of Januaey, 1851, " In the teab of oub Lobd Jesus Cheist." Captain Thomas, E.M., resides near the church, in a small wooden house belonging to Tangere, Native assessor. There are spots superior to this for a residence, but were not available when Captain Thomas first arrived. Wiremu Naira, one of the prominent chiefs here, and nephew of the late Pomare, has given a piece of land for a magisterial residence, estimated at about one hundred acres. The land is well situated, commands a fine view of the bay, is covered with the usual bush, and the soil is very good. I could see no better site for such a residence, and am satisfied that the situation will eventually become valuable. I therefore submit that it would be well for the Government to secure the land when Naira has taken his claim through the Court, and obtained a title for it. A rough sketch of Waitangi is attached. On the morning of the 27th the chiefs Tangere and Toenga came to see me. I told them the object of my visit, and the course I proposed to pursue —that of going round the Island in the ' St. Kilda,' and landing at the different settlements. They were of opinion that the Natives would like a meeting in Waitangi, and one discussion, in preference to many at the various villages, and offered to collect the prominent men, if I would agree. Wishing to meet their views, and believing them the best judges in a matter of this kind, I accepted their offer, and suggested that no delay should take place, as 1 was anxious to see the other side of the Island. In conversation with several Natives, I was told that there were conflicting opinions on the subject of the ownership of these Islands. 1. The Morioris claimed as the original occupants. 2. The Maoris claimed by right of conquest. 3. -The Maoris were divided amongst themselves —some fraternised with the Morioris, others ignored them, —some would consent to a survey, and a sitting of the Native Land Cou-rt; whilst others would oppose both, lest their title to the land already leased to Pakehas might prove to be defective. On the 2nd of April, all the Natives who were expected having assembled at Paremata, I went there accompanied by Mr. Chudleigh, J.P. and Mr. Ford, surveyor, there were ninety-one Natives present, including twenty-two Morioris, and about the same number of women. I told the Natives that I had come to see them, to ascertain how they were getting on, and the terms on which they were living one with another. I told them that several claims to the land here had been received in New Zealand, and that it was my duty to give this meeting every information as to the working of the Native Lands Act which I would read (Act read) and to recommend them to consent to a joint survey of all their claims to be carried on under the direction of the Government. I represented to them the advantages which would accrue from such a course, by the obviating of any future dispute, and by at once obtaining a correct survey of the whole Island. I told them that if they agreed to this proposal the Government would see that the survey was correctly carried on, and that the charges were

A.—No. 4.

reasonable. I added that the sitting of the Native Land Court would also be expedited by this arrangement. I then asked them to let me know their thoughts. Bakatau said, " I agree to the survey of my piece of land." Toenga said, " I want tho boundaries settled first." Hamuera supported the previous speaker. Ihakara Ngapuke said, " I have heard Mr. Halse's words, and agree to tho survey. I wish the work to be commenced at once." Wi Naira said, " I have a question to ask Mr. Halse: To whom does this Island belong ?" I replied that the question was one for the Judges of tho Court to decide. Wiremu Wharepu said, " I want the boundaries settled, because we are continually disputing about them." I replied that the survey and the Court would put an end to all disputes about boundaries. Wiremu Tapu (Moriori) said, " Hearken, this Island is claimed by my masters, the Maoris, and by us the Morions, and there is a great deal of confusion —there is also confusion amongst the Maoris themselves —one says the land is his, another says it is his, this is the cause of confusion. We the Morioris, have nothing to say because everything rests with our masters. The law (Native Lands Act) read by you is only understood by the young men who have been to school. Do you listen, the desire to lease land here is very strong, nothing else is thought of. We do not know whether the land belongs to the Maoris or to us. Make this clear that we may know." Toenga said, " I am the man for leasing, I have leased land to the Pakehas, to Mr. Chudleigh, and to Mr. Marshall, and intend to lease all the land. If other Pakehas were here I would point them out." Ihaka Ngapuke said, " I wish the survey to bo commenced at once, do not delay it, if you do, the people will be of the same opinion as they are now. Hasten the survey that the work may be quickly over." Toenga said, " I like the system of leasing; I have ten Pakehas in my pocket, and shall lease to the highest bidder." Tamarilvi liaumoa said, " I am for the survey, and when the work is finished I shall send my claims to the Court, if the Court cut off a portion of them I will abandon all my land and go to New Zealand." Toenga said, " I know why Tamariki talks in that manner, he has been promised 500 acres at Taranaki by Mr. Parris. What is there for me ? Nothing. Ido not believe the Government will give mo land there, and my people are of the same opinion." I asked Toenga whether a letter had been received on the subject of the claims of the people of this Island to land in the Taranaki District. He rej>lied that such a letter had been received, but he did not know where it was, and he had forgotten the contents. Meeting adjourned till ten o'clock to-morrow morning. On the 3rd of April, tho meeting was renewed, and conducted in much the same manner as before. As Toenga still opposed the survey, and with increasing energy, I told him that we were throwing away time by prolonging the discussion, and suggested that it should be discontinued : that the proposal I had made was for his benefit and if he did not like to accept it he could leave it alone, that the Government had no desire to force him to send his claims to the Court. Wi Naira intimated that the " korero " was finished, and I left the meeting. In the evening, Tangere invited the whole of the opposition, including their wives and children, to his house. Wi Naira and Ihaka Ngapuke were present. After a long silence, Tangere addressing the meeting (at which some forty were present) said, " I have called you together to talk over the proposal made to you yesterday by our friend Mr. Halse (I should have been present if I had not been detained by Captain Thomas at the Court of Inquiry). I think the proposal that has been made is good, and that it is our interest to agree to it. We all know that the land is the cause of great confusion, no person knows whether his boundary is here or there. This is the reason why I ask you to agree to the survey. I wish these troubles to be discontinued. Ido not ask one or two to agree, I ask all of you to agree, and if you agree, I shall know that you mean it." Three elderly men successively agreed to the survey; they were followed by the same number of young men, who said that as the elderly men had agreed to the survey it was sufficient, that they the young men also consented. Toenga said, " The words of Tangere are true. This is what I have to say —In opposing the survey, I acted as a mouth-piece for my people, they have now agreed, I also agree." He then said, " Mr. Halse, you have caught your fish." Tangere said, " Do you all agree to the survey? " they replied unanimously, "Yes." Tangere and other Natives hoped that Mr. T. 11. Smith would be sent down 1 as Judge, accompanied by Assessors from Kaipara or Ngapuhi. They did not want Assessors from Wellington, Wanganui, or Taranaki, because they were related to them. This closed the business, and most of the meeting went away to their houses. On the sth, I started with Mr. Shand, junior, for Kaingaroa. We had only ridden a few miles when the "St. Kilda" was seen outside Whangaroa, and therefore only proceeded as far as Te Whanga (Tho Large Lake). This is a fine sheet of water, about twenty-five miles in length, and in some parts fifteen miles wide. In the shallowest part it contracts to about six miles, and affords a safe crossing on horseback when the waters flow freely into the sea. The scenery on the Waitangi side is of the usual character, and grows right down to the beach. We met three Morioris on a fishing expedition (the lake being a celebrated place for eels), they recognized Mr. Shand, and, instead of asking questions, came up and welcomed me in a very friendly manner. I was told that these people always treat the settlers with respect, and evince great pleasure when visited by any person connected with the Government. Shortly after our return to Waitangi, the " St. Kilda " came up and anchored. In the evening

4

REPORT ON THE CHATHAM

A.—No. 4.

Captain Johnson landed, and as lie was going to Whangaroa the next day, after surveying the "West Eeef, I decided to go with him. On the 6th I went on board, and landed at Whangaroa with Captain Johnson and Te Eoiri (the Native engaged as pilot during the marine survey of the Island), the same day. This place possesses a fine deep bay, which appears to offer safe shelter for shipping in all weather. The appearance of the land is not prepossessing, and it would seem that the Natives are of the same opinion, as there are only five living here altogether —two men and three women. Te Eoiri, who passes much of his time here, invited us into the best of two houses, and sent for a jug of milk, which we found very acceptable. Keta te Kopu lives here. He is a very old man, but hopelessly deaf, and rarely speaks to those about him for days together. We saw four cows, three steers, and 150 sheep, besides several horses, and a few pet pigs, all in good condition, except the horses, which are ridden by Natives without a spark of consideration. On the Bth, having secured two available horses, I left with Captain Johnson for Tupuangi. The land over which we passed is flat and swampy; there is not a tree in sight, and nothing to attract attention except clouds of smoke issuing from the burning plain, which is composed of peat to a depth of several feet. The greater portion of this land might be drained at a moderate cost, and would then be better adapted for grazing purposes. On arriving at Maunganui we heard that all the Tupuangi Natives were there at work in their cultivations. Captain Johnson moved on to take an observation, while I went to seee the Natives ; they gave me a very kind reception ; and by the time Captain Johnson returned, I was enabled to offer him a dish of Irish stew, besides an abundance of fried pork and potatoes, and some wholesome Kawa Kawa tea. This is a pleasant place, and just the country for cultivation ; the land is covered by bush, and the soil, though mixed with sand, is very productive ; the Natives grow fine potatoes, Indian corn, onions (small but of good quality) pumpkins, and rear many pigs, as well as horses and cattle, the latter generally run wild in the bush. Here I engaged a strong horse for the rest of the journey, and taking leave of the Natives and Captain Johnson, who returned to Whangaroa, proceeded to Tupuangi, accompanied by Hakopa, a Moriori, who acted as my guide. This is an open roadstead to the North and Eastward, but affords good shelter, with winds from other quarters, when boats can land. The village is large, but many of the houses, having long been vacant, are in a dilapidated state, and the church, which was once an ornament to the place, is fast falling to pieces. A large number of Natives lived here a few years ago, attracted by the pleasant aspect and inexhaustible supply of very fine pauas (shell fish), much sought after by Natives generally; but an epidemic overtook them and carried off nearly all the adults, male and female, and reduced them to their present limited number. On the 9th, started for Wharekauri, with my friend Hakopa, a most communicative companion, but a very indifferent guide, conducting me as he did across extensive swamps instead of skirting the edges, where the path is tolerably good. After floundering through a succession of swamps, at the risk of leaving our horses behind us, we reached Wharekauri, more by good luck than management, as I was afterwards informed by Natives and Europeans. Here I met Mr. Patterson, a gentleman keeping sheep with Mr. Chudleigh, who was from home, and received a polite invitation to go to his house. I sent Hakapu to the Native village, about a mile distant, to engage a guide to Kaingaroa, as he had no desire to go further, and as his horse was knocked up. He returned in the course of an hour, and told me that the Natives were away, and not likely to come back till late in the afternoon. I therefore accepted Mr. Patterson's invitation to stay for the night. This station is well selected, and the condition of the sheep sufficiently testify to the goodness of the feed upon it. There is an abundance of bush and fertile land in the immediate neighbourhood of the homestead. The swamps, over which I had passed, afford, as I was told, good feed for the sheep, where they graze during the day time, and make for the higher ground towards evening. I went to the village with Hakopa, and met Wiremu (a Moriori) his wife, and an American Negro, the rest of the people had not returned. Wiremu, who had heard of the meeting held at Waitangi through my loquacious friend Hakopa, told me that the Morioris would agree to the survey, but they did not know the views of the Pakehas (meaning the Government) on the subject of the ownership of the land—the Morioris think the land is theirs, the Maoris say the land is theirs, but we do not see it, because they came here as strangers. He said, "Do not delay the sitting of the Court, because the Morioris are few enough now, and each year decreases their number; if you keep the Court back five years there will not be a Moriori left to prefer his claim." After a little mental calculation Wiremu said that in former times the Morioris were a numerous people, now there were not more than sixty men and forty women left; there are no children, those we had are all dead. He alluded to the persecutions endured by the Morioris at the hands of the Maoris, and said that the difference of the treatment now received was owing to a conviction that the Government would eventually assist the Morioris ; this ended the conversation. On the 10th, after breakfasting off some fine mutton, I left with Wiremu, my new guide, for Kaingaroa. The tides were unfavourable, and the riding over the soft sand was very labourious for the horses. We stopped two hours at Matarakau, where we refreshed ourselves and our horses. This is a charming place as seen from a little rising ground about a mile from the village, and is not unlike Wharekauri, for the beauty of the scenery. Ihaka Ngapuke lives here, and acted as my escort. He afterwards accompanied me to Kaingaroa, where we arrived at two p.m. The schooner " Dispatch " was at anchor in the bay, and created quite a sensation, judging from the number of Natives on the beach. This bay is small, but affords safe shelter to small vessels in all winds except North, when the sea breaks over the reefs, inside of which is the anchorage. Pamariki Eaumoa took me to his house. We were followed by Eiwai Taupata, assessor; and other prominent Natives. Pamariki said, " That when the people heard of my return from Te Whanga to Waitangi, they were disappointed. Now that I had come amongst them so unexpectedly, their minds were at ease, and they were glad to see me in Kaingaroa. He would not ask me to stay now for a ' korero,' but if I would meet the people here to-morrow, they would be pleased." I replied, " That the long stay of the steamer had enabled me to see Whangaroa, Tupuangi, Wharekauri, and Matarakau, and that had I left without seeing Kaingaroa, my disappointment would have been very great; that I was not at all fatigued; but as a 2

5

ISLANDS BY MR. HALSE.

A.—Ko. 4.

meeting had been arranged for to-morrow, it would be my duty and pleasure to attend it." Mr. Shand, who was present, invited me to his house, which is pleasantly situated about three miles from the harbour. I was pleased with the character of the country, parts of which resemble a gentleman's park, and would require no great outlay to make them equal to some of the best I have seen, —there is more open land and less swamp to impede horse exercise. The soil is good and capable of producing all kinds of provisions. On the 11th I went to Kaingaroa with Mr. Shand by another road, which only tended to confirm my first impressions of this place. At eleven o'clock I met the Natives, about forty in number, in one of the largest houses in the village. Pamariki Eaumoa said, " That as there were Natives present who did not attend the meeting in Waitangi, they would be glad to hear from me what was said on that occasion." I accordingly told them, and they expressed themselves satisfied. I added, " That the only new word was that a report had reached New Zealand that they (Kaingaroa people) were about to migrate to Taranaki, with the intention of settling there. If this were true, it devolved upon me to tell them that they would gain nothing by adopting that course ; that the Government would consider their claims in common with those of other absentees, and award them compensation, as they had been previously informed." Pamariki Eaumoa said, "I am thinking of going to Taranaki. What does it signify about one man ? " I replied " That no advantage would be gained by going there. This land was good, and this harbour was good,—provisions were abundant, and the country contained a large number of horses and cattle." Pamariki said, " Mr. Halse, what you have said is true; but our wish to go back is because Taranaki is the land of our forefathers." This ended the meeting. In the evening, in answer to some questions, the following statement was made to me by Mina and Kirapu, two Morioris, in the presence of a Maori named Hapimana. The elder of the two said, " Formerly, we Morioris were numerous, and contented; we did not understand killing men, we lived on fish, ducks and pigeons ; we had neither pigs nor potatoes in those times ; we hud no other covering but seal skins. At last a canoe full of people arrived at Tupuangi, made a short stay, and went away. Not long after four canoes landed at the same place, and we think that the first canoe was one of the four, the names of the canoes were, ' Ko Pane,' ' Ko Bangitane,' 'Ko Eangimate,' 'Ko Euapuke.' The people in the three first canoes sat down, and evinced no desire to molest us ; but the people in. the fourth canoe, headed by a chief named Moe, attacked and killed many of our friends, cooked the bodies and ate them. Moe and his following seeing that the people who came in the three first canoes held aloof, and took no part in these massacres, destroyed their huts and crossed over to Bangihauri (Pitt's Island). There they found Morioris who had gone over from the main Island, and soon renewed their cannibal customs. The relatives of the slain were grieved and terrified, and consulted on the best way of ridding themselves of the man-eaters. One proposed burning them alive when lost in sleep. To accomplish this, deceit would bo necessary —some would have to feign friendship for their oppressors, whilst otlicrs were collecting fern and dry rubbish. This proposal was agreed to, and one night while Moe and his companions were asleep, a large quantity of fern and dry rubbish was piled round their huts, fired, and the inmates were suffocated and burnt to death, not one escaped. We then lived as before, and had almost forgotten our troubles, when a brig, called 'Eoroni,' arrived full of people, in number four hundred. When the people were landed the vessel went away, and returned with four hundred more and their effects. The men had guns, spears, tomahawks, axes, and meres, and commenced their custom of slaughtering and eating people. Many of our relatives and friends fell. We did not understand fighting, and having no weapons were not able to resist. We were terrified, fled to the bush, concealed ourselves in holes under ground, and in any place to escape our enemies. It was of no avail; we were discovered and killed, men, women, and children indiscriminately." From all I could gather this terrible slaughter appears to have extended over a series of years on a smaller scale, and to have been carried on with as little compunction of conscience, as we kill sheep for consumption. I asked how the Maoris treated them at the present time. Mina replied " They are kind to us now, because they think you Pakehas would support us. The wrong we condemn just now is their system of leasing the land." I have since been told that the quantity of land leased to Pakehas cannot be less than one hundred and twenty thousand acres. Of course these contracts are illegal, and made at the risk of the Europeans. On the morning of the 12th I left with a new guide for Waitangi. The country although intersected by occasional soft spots, is the best I have seen for agricultural purposes. Clumps of low bush, and freshwater lakes present a most picturesque appearance, and will doubtless some day form a beautiful estate. After two hours riding we reached Te Whanga. Here we stopped to refresh our horses, before calling on them to carry us across this wide sheet of water. A smart breeze kept the atmosphere cool and pleasant, which is not the case in calm sultry weather, owing to the quantity of decaying vegetable matter on the borders of this lake. We saddled and crossed in one hour and twenty-five minutes. The water was low, but a thick matting of weeds makes the fording very laborious for horses, and only admits of a slow pace the whole distance. The bush on the Kaingaroa side grows right down to the beach, and is composed of the same kind of trees as those on the Waitangi side. We arrived at Waitangi at four o'clock in the afternoon, having been just six hours on the road. With regard to the present population of all races on these Islands, I beg to enclose a copy of a return furnished by Captain Thomas, E.M., giving the names of all the Natives on the main Island, with other statistical information. This Eeturn has been carefully taken, and show the Native population to be as follows: —

6

REPORT ON THE CHATHAM

A.—No. 4.

Morions — Men ... ... ... ... ... 60 Women ... ... ... ... ... 47 Boys ... ... ... ... ... 4 Girls ... ... ... ... ... 2 113 Maoris— Men ... ... ... ... ... 130 Women ... ... ... ... ... 129 Boys ... ... ... ... ... 46 Girls ... ... ... ... ... 34 339 Half-castes— Men ... ... ... ... ... 4 Women ... ... ... ... ... 4 Boys ... ... ... ... ... 9 Girls ... ... ... ... ... 3 —— 20 Kanakas Men (South Sea Islanders.) ... ... 4 4, Total ... ... 476 In October, 18G1, the Native population was estimated at 590, since that date 21 Natives have returned to New Zealand, and 93 have died. The striking part of these figures is the small remnant of Morioris, and the almost total absence of children to balance the lossess which have been sustained, indicating very forcibly that these people will soon be unregistered in the Census Statistics of this country. I regret that I was unable to visit Owenga, a small village, where some thirty Morioris reside. I am told this is an open roadstead about two miles to the North of Cape Tournier on the South-east corner of the Island, and that boats can land in fine weather. He who is not pressed for time, and wishes to obtain a correct history of these poor people, might by passing a few evenings amongst them, collect important and touching information which their Maori conquerors would hardly wish to be disclosed. On the 13th April, the " St. Kilda " left Waitangi, met with average weather, and arrived in Wellington on the evening of the 16th, after an absence of twenty-four days. I have, &c., H. Halse, The Hon. J. C. Kichmond, Native Department. Assistant Under Secretary.

RETURN of the EUROPEAN POPULATION on the CHATHAM ISLANDS, on 1st April, 1867.

7

ISLANDS BY MR. HALSE.

.TS. Children. T<r ?AXS. General Totals. It ¥. M. F. If. F. Kesiding on the Main Island, — English Germans Americans, U.S. Danes Portuguese Spaniards Chinese New Holland (Half-caste) American Negro Norwegian 84 4 a 2 2 1 1 I 1 1 10 2 1 8 (i 15 42 10 3 2 2 1 .1 1 1 1 81 2 i 50 li) 14 15 64 34 98 Residing on Pitt's Island, — English Germans 4 1 4 1 1 2 1 3 6 8 5 4 5 17

A.—No. 4.

RETURN of the ABORIGIANAL, MAORI, and HALF-CASTE POPULATION of the CHATHAM ISLANDS, on the 1st April, 1867.

RETURN of HOUSES inhabited by EUROPEANS in the CHATHAM ISLANDS, 4th April, 1867.

8

EEPORT ON THE CHATHAM ISLANDS.

Adokh ie Moi JINES, 1IOEIS. Mai IEIS. Halj-i liSTEi Kax. lEA3. Tir •AT.. Geiteeai Total Ad ills. Chili Ircn. Adi Its. Chil< ■en. Adi [to. Chili [ren. AUi II... Adi Us. Chili •en. If. F. 1£ r. M. F. M. P. K. F. M. F. It K. M. F. M. F. GO •17 4 2 130 129 k; 84 ■1 4 !) 3 4 198 180 59 39 476 Hau Lhau ] 'riso ters. 184 67 T 302 N. '. —Since 'ctober, 1 161, 11 N; itives hav< returned to NeZeal [and.

PlACE. Stone. Wood. Cob. Lime and Fern. Fern and Thatch. TOTAIS. AVaitangi ... Kaingaroa... "VVharckauri Tupuangi ... Owenga ... Pitt's Island 1 7 7 2 1 2 i 1 6 1 2 14 9 1 4 1 4 2 1!) 83 N~.B. —Of the abovementioned houses, 18 are owned by Europeans; the rest are held on terms of lease from Natives. The following is an approximation of the amount of Stock owned by Natives, namely — Sheep ... ... ... ... ... ... 2,567 Horses (about) ... ... ... ... ... 1,000 Cattle (say) ... ... ... ... ... 2,000