CHINESE COSTUME JEWELLERY

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 74, Issue 111, 13 May 1931, Page 2

CHINESE COSTUME JEWELLERY

I Although the women of China set their own fashions in dress and jcwel- , lory, and although Peiping is thousands ' of miles away from any style centre < f the Occident, this anciety city is in these days very quick to take note or the fashion whims of the West, since the craftsmen of Peiping arc now supplying a large part of the costume jewellery which is worn tn the United ►Slates, especially that which is made cf genuine stones. Glass and other imitation jewelleiy is also exported from here, but on the whole China cannot compete with central Europe in the manufacture of artificial gems. Neither can it compete very W ell in making flat machine-like cuts, but th? Ch?nese hand workers can and do lead the world in achieving b tricate carvings and elaborate settings. The present demand for ea-ved stones, such as jade and rose quatez. i-, tremendous, as is also the demand for filagree gold and silver work. Jn fact, it is absolutely impossible now for the woikshops of Peiping to tirn out a suf ficient supply of fi st-class jewcllcy, and as a result the markets in the United States arc getting some inferior goods.

Lovely But Perishable.

There is nothing improper about this if the purchasers knowingly accept second-rate jewellery at cheap prices, but buyers who desire jewellery of permanent value should beware of certain defects which aro not uncommon in the Chinese articles being exported from here to-day. It should be kept in mind, first of all, that very few of the gold settings made in China are solid gold. Usually • he cost of this would be all out of pro. portion tn the gems and, moreover, Chinese goldsmiths who do employ solid inetil tend to use, instead of a mixture, pure gold, which is too s d’t fur practical wt ?,r. In all medium-priced jewellery, therefore, one must realise that the" gold is usually a very thing gold wash over silver. The Chinese gold wash is by no means as durable as the gold-plating used in the Occident and must be handled with care. A pin or a necka considerable time but a ring cannot lace set in this gold-wash will wear for be used daily without soon showing the silver beneath. It is therefore advisable in buying Chinese jewellery, to handle it with care always removing the rings when washing the hands. Sometimes, if the stone setting is not too intricate, it is worth while to have the piece goldpiated. Gilt filigree work made in China is all fashioned by hand, as are also all the chains, clasps, and so forth. This work, while more beautiful than that contrived by machines, is very delicate

and fragile. An Eagle Eye.

In purchasing stones one should also bi sure that the gems are set firmly, not merely pasted in. Chinese jewellery not infrequently makes use of fragments of carnelian, jade and malachite, which arc too thin to be set securely an i these often fal lout. Elaborate flower designs, made up of tiny bits of coloured jewels, should be examined carefully, and it is also advisable i to push uw stone setting of a ring I from the inside to see whether it is! easily dislodged.

Artificial Colouring.

It is unlikely that an imitation gem will be foisted upon anyone in the guise of a genuine stone, but manv Chinese stones are artificially coloured, chief among them carnelian, amethyst and rose quartz. When these stones naturally pale and inexpensive are dyed, the colour tends to be rather cloudy, lacking entirely the clear translucency of jewels of good quality. ►Sometimes soapstone is mistaken for jade, but the former is so soft that it is easily scratche 1 with a pin. Amber binds are often made in China of fragments of genuine amber press,* I These heads ar? beautiful in Their own mot led way, with toms .•>1 ading from oringj »o rich brown, b*i* c; re must be tak.-n not. to rub th ?m typether lest they lost their polish and Old carving is always to be preferred to that which is done to-day, for craftsmen in former times were not hurried and their gems show variety of design and dclieacv of exccuuon whirl cannot be obtained now. However, some oL those old carvings have become (‘racked, which weakness is a decided defect in any high-priced stone.