FEMININE INTERESTS

Timaru Herald, Volume CXXV, Issue 18653, 23 August 1930, Page 4

FEMININE INTERESTS

PERSONAL AND FASHION NOTES. All White Wedding Pageant: Pretty women in fluttering dresses and extravagantly wide straw hats were among the many guests at the wedding of the Earl of Ava, son and heir of the Marquess of Dufferin and Ava, and Miss Maureen Guinness, the 23 year old eldest daughter of the Hon. Ernest and Mrs Guinness. The ceremony took place at St. Margaret’s, Westminster, where every seat was occupied before the arrival of the bride. Late-comers had to choose between standing or occupying forms on either side of the font. The chancel, the choir stalls, and the aisle were all decorated with masses of madonna lilies, whose fragrance filled the church. The bridal group was both unusual and picturesque. Faint gleams of silver and pale gola were introduced into an all-white retinue, and the only other touch of colour was the green of the foliage of the bride’s bouquet of Madonna lilies. With her fair hair and delicate colouring, the bride looked most attractive in her long gown of rich white white bridal satin, embroidered with silk lilies and pearls .It was made in mediaeval style with the flat decolletage outlined with golden threads and pearls, and an immensely wide skirt falling from the hips and flowing out at Ihe back into a magnificently embroidered train nearly four yards in length. The wide-open petals of exquisite lilies stood up from the satin foundation, joined by golden leaves and little loops of pearls, a deep hem of frilled white tulle throwing the delicate embroideries into relief. From the tight elbow length sleeves, embroidered with lilies and leaves to match the train, fell quantities of billowy tulle so long that it swept tfte ground. A foamy tulle veil floated back from her headdress of gold embroidered leaves. Behind the bride walked three little girls, carrying the train, and eight grown-up bridesmaids among whom were the two daughters of the Ranee of Sarawak, Lady Honor Guinness, Lady Veronica Blackwood. Lady Rosemary I-lope-Vere, and Miss Valerie French. They looked liked fairy figures in their voluminous white tulle frocks (each one consisting of 60 yards of material) with quaint little shoulder capes. Silver petals and gold stars powdered the crisp folds of their dresses and they had wreaths of pale gold crystal on their hair, and carried posies of silver and pale gold artificial flowers from which silver ribbons fell. After all there is nothing lovelier than an all-white wedding, was the opinion of a great many of the guests. All this snowy whiteness gave a certain Victorian atmosphere to the wedding, which the guests did their best to enhance, with their long-skirted, waisted dresses, little capes, huge hats of leghorn straw, hefr? trimmed under and over the brim and bonnet like affairs with ribbons. It was a perfect day for a perfect wedding, and the crowds outside St. Margaret’s enjoyed it as much as the privileged crowd inside.

Irish Guests at Lord Ava’s Wedding: Nolsble Irish guests were present at the v ding of Lord Ava and Miss Maureen Guinness. Lord and Lady Dufferin, the bridegroom’s parents were early arrivals at the church, and Lord and Lady Antrim sat near them. Lord and Lady Craigavon brought their son.. Sir Hugh and Lady O’Neill were together. Lady Rose McDonnell was a guest, as were Sir John and Lady Leslie. The Duke of Abercorn, being congratulated upon the betrothal of his daughter, Lady Katherine Hamilton, arrived alone. Lord Carson brought Lady Carson, who wore a patterned crepe de chene frock, and the Dowager Lady Antrim, dressed in black was With friends. The bride’s mother had a beautifully embroidered gown and coat of sand colour. Her sister, Mrs Brinsley Plunket, wore mavis egg blue, girdled with silver, and Mrs Philip Kindersley, another sister, was in a rose-patterned chiffon frock, with skirt pleats of aquamarine blue. Lady Elizabeth Meade, Lord Clanwilliam’s daughter, looked very pretty in mushroom crepe dotted with black Lady Cynthia Asquith wore a frilled circular cape of water-green silk to match her dress and a big green hat. and Lady Annaly was in beige patterned with cocoa-brown. Lady Ursula Horne and her sister, Lady Doris Gunston, were together, Lady Mary Hope, in a blue patterned chiffon frock, arrived with Miss Gretton, and Lady Lytton wore a flounced dress of soft Chinese blue. Mrs Cunningham Reid, wearing a little blue beret wiia a blue and white frock, brought Lady Ashley, who was in flower-patterned chiffon, and Lady Jellicoe was with her daughter Norah. Lady Bangor wore blue chiffon and lace. The Dowager Lady Glentanar brought Lady Anne Wellesley, and Lady Sibell and Lady Dorothy Lygon were both ft the church, the former in a navy crepe coat and skirt and her sister wearing a navy hat with a white-spotted blue dress. Lady Cynthia Mosley, M.P., all in black chiffon, with a big bonnetlike straw hat and a little black satin cape, was about the last guest to arrive at the church hurrying into her place after the bridal procession had passed up the aisle. Colonel Henry Fortescue, Lady Algernon Gordon Lennox, in printed chiffon, and Mr Walter and Ladv Evelyn Guinness were among <he crowd of guests at the reception at 17. Grosvenor Square. Mrs John Barran and her twin sister, Miss Margaret Ruthven, dressed exactly alike in beige frocks with black belts and beige hats of lace straw, were there, and Mr and Mrs Shane Leslie.

No “Trailer” Skirts: “Drag Day” brought the Grande Semaine of the French Turf to its brilliant climax. Not only is the “Journee des Drags” the most popular and most fashionable in the racing calendar of Paris, but it is also the glorification of the Paris dressmaker. This day Dame Fashion issued her verdict ior the immediate future—and there vas no appeal. The judgment of Paris was carried out by hundreds of the most beautimul mannequins representing every firm of note in the city and by the Parisian aristocracy.' The fete in the afternoon was, indeed, a symphony of all colours, with bright blue and various shades of pink predominating. Only eight skirts that trailed vtre noticeable, the vast majority reaching about six inches above the ground. The favourite materials were printed chiffon and crepe de chene with laige patterns. Many of the mannequins wore very big hats, but as a rule smaller ones were favoured. All were trimmed with ribbon. An interesting feature of the fashion display was the large number of capes, carried out in the sv.me material as the wearer’s dress and reaching from the shoulder to the waistline. These replaced the scarves of last year and resembled the tippets of 1830. Indeed, there was a distinct air of 100 jtars ago. Skirts were full and flounced and frequently longer at the back and sides than in front. With short sleeves, Long black gloves were worn, a no many of the women had hats, gloves and shoes all black. Almost every women carried a bright tapestry handbag and it was very noticeable that very little jewellery was worn. One saw chiefly necklaces of large amber beads and it is certain that amber is becoming the vogue to day. So fashion’s fiat has gone forth; the long skirt, but not the “trailer” has come for the time being and few people believe that for fashionable afternoon and evening functions the short skirt will come back for a leng time. The “Journee dea Drags” derived its

name from the fact that Parisian society used to go to Auteuil in wonderful coaches and fours, but since the war this feature has been almost entirely absent. On this year’s day, however, three such coaches laden with society and stage personalitiies made a brave effort to revive the ancient prewar splendour. The crowd was an enormous one and it was estimated that there were at least 10,000 motor cars, which is a record. Earlier in the day the great “feminine elegance” automobile meeting took place, and most of the competitors came along in ;heir wonderful vehicles.

Lace Making in Olden Days: A woman of olden times would spend years making by hand a single piece of lace, weaving into it the joys oi passing youth and the sorrows of old age. This was especially true f the nuns. Shut off from the world, a nun would begin some vestment for the clergy, or for the altar, at the same time teaching the novices how tu make the lace. When her own eyes became too dim to work, she would pass it on to her best pupil. The ’ upil, grown old, would pass it on to another, and so one single article often represented the life work of sever il women.

Besides the conventional floral and geometrical designs woven into this filmy fabric, there were many emblems indicative of the virtues or calling of the one whom it was to adorn. Church lace usually had a close background, with the signs of the Trinity, pictures of the Apostles, or that of the reigning Pontiff done in relief. Napoleon wore a cravat of Venetian point lecorated with bees—his own cipher. And he had a scarf of pointed alencon, adorned also with bees, made for the Empress Marie Louise. When Queen Victoria was married, she wore a v»ii of boniton, her -av:<e lace. The Princess Royal wore at her marriage a veil of the same exquisite lace, designed in medallions, carrying the national flowers —the rose the thistle, and the shamrock. Honiton lace is distinguished by the lozenge shape which enters largely into its design. The ornaments are made and placed on a net ground, and if this ground be hand-made the finished piece is very valuable.

A Woman Vet: There seems to be no profession nowadays into which women do not enter. The first Scottish woman to qualify as a veterinary surgeon is shortly to take her diploma. She is Miss Marion Stewart, a girl of only twentv-one. who knows practically everything there is to know about doers.

Miss Stewart has always loved an open-air life, and from a great fondness for animals, grew anxious to learn tv cure them when they were ill. According to Professor Hobday, the eminent veterinary surgeon, who broadcast last year on canine nursing as a career for women, the profession offers good prospects to girls who ar: keen and willing to work hard. In his opinion women have a natural aptitude for tjie work, which makes them splendid practitioners. But a period of training is essential. Students may either qualify by means of a diploma or by means oi » university degree. Whichever course she adopts, a woman should find plenty of opportunities in the veterinary field. On the other hand, an unqualified woman “vet.” has a very poor chance of success indeed. One girl who had practised in Kent without a diploma stated that although she had bred dogs all her life, she was unable to build up a practice.

Armour Plated Fashions: Although fashions of to-day may appear to be retrogressing, they still have a long way to go to reach the uncomfortable models of 1830, to judge by a display which recently attracted much attention in Paris. Several merchants of the Avenue de l’Opera are showing the fashions for men and women of just 100 years ago, states a Paris writer. Women’s corsets were then made of reinforced steel and velvet, while shoes wore obviously not meant for walking. Heels of shoes displayed in this old fashion show of Paris generally come under the instep, and many lace up the side. Silk stockings had not come off the loom at that time, but partial silk hose embroidered with stars and crescents snakes and dominoes, were common. Evening dress for men of 1830 was highly distinctive, consisting of a bright coloured tail coat, with brass buttons, a figured silk waistcoat, also trimmed with many buttons, pale grey trousers with a blue or black stripe at the side, and dainty boots into which few men of to-day could fit their feet.

An “Aeroplaiie” Room: One of the greatest flying enthusiasts of ihe present day is Miss Diana Guest, the young and pretty caughter of that all-round sportsman, Captain the Hon. F. E. Guest, states an English writer. His marvellous house and grounds at Roehampton are equipped with a private polo ground and riding track, covered tennis courts; n.u hangars and a landing ground for his aeroplanes. He has recently had some of the trees in the front of the Louse cleared away so that he can land comfortably outside his front-door. Not to be outdone, his daughter has designed an “aeroplane-room” for herself. The curtains are painted with \ design of aeroplanes in blue and silver, and another fleet of silver aeroplanes appears on the ceiling just above her bed. The walls of the room are blue and silver, and the doors are painted blue, with aeroplanes on the handles.

Miss Emily Davies: A hundred years ago was born Emily Davies, who changed basically female education, states an exchange. There ; is romance of a special kind, sometimes in the lives of those women reformers, but perhaps we are too near their period to realise it as yet. Yet something of this romance realisation does come to us in ito flowing the early days of Emily Davies. So often these forerunners worked alone, not knowing for many years that they hau comrades in the world, but Miss Davies was luckier than most. The daughter of a clergyman, born in Southampton, she met at 20 Elizabeth Garrett, and even then the two girls resolved on the parts they \ ould play. One would attend to education, the other blaze the way for women doctors, while “Millicent, Elizabeth’s younger sister, would look after the suffrage.” So calmly, those three girls planned in those days when women’s rights were scoffed at as never before or since. What each girl then resolved to do she actually did, and the work of Emily Davies in regard to Girton College and opening the universities to women was not the least of all. Emily Davies lived to record her vote when the last stronghold was taken, and the suffrage granted.