EVEREST’S CREST

Otago Daily Times, Issue 22903, 10 June 1936, Page 9

EVEREST’S CREST

STILL UNCONQUERED EXPEDITION ABANDONS ATTACK (United Press Association) (By Electric Telegraph—Copyright) LONDON. June 9. (Received June 9, at 9 p.m.) A copyright message from Mr Hugh Ruttledge at Camp 1 on June 8 states; “ Wyn Harris and Shipton narrowly escaped with their lives during a daring reconnaissance, after wb.ch it was decided to abandon the attempt for 1990. Aftc the abortive attempt on June 5 to rcoccupy Camp 4 a tremendous northwesterly wind continued to sweep Everest. With the treacherous North Col slopes obviously unclimbable and sheets of snow flying across the slopes, it was debated at the camp whether, after a cold night followed by a brilliant sun and an incessant wind, wc should find the snow safe. Harris and Shipton undertook to risk inspection. They safely scaled the first 500 feet in a direct, steep ascent in the old track and then began the horizontal traverse to the left, which we always suspected of being dangerous. Although the angle of the snow was only moderate the surface was hard and good. Without the slightest warning there came a rippling sound and the snowheld split across the surface, breaking up into iceblocks which began sliding down towards the edge of the 400-foot ice cliff just below. Shipton was quietly but irresistibly carried away, but Harris, who .was behind and nearer the top edge of the avalanche, made a tremendous effort to leap back to the edge of the crevasse, on the lip of which he jammed his axe and secured a rope on to it. pulling Shipton back sideways from the sliding ice. The ice rope tautened and was beginning to pull the axe out.when the avalanche stopped just before pouring over the ice wall. Harris's prompt action certainly saved them both. Meanwhile another avalanche more to the left orokc away independently. Shipton was completely winded by the pressure of the rope, but Harris got down safely. Their bold investigation confirmed beyond possible doubt the risk of tampering with the North Col slopes once the monsoon and air currents had begun to delay them. But for this reconnaissance the whole climbing party and porters would have made another attempt to rc-occupy Camp 4 and the result could only have been disastrous. Therefore the attempt on Everest by tbc only known route must be abandoned for 1999. It is terribly disappointing. with the mountain now belatedly in good condition and an absolutely first rate party ready to attack. However, it would be criminal to send them within reach of an avalanche or that terrible icefield. As a last effort we are starting up the main Rongbul: Glacier to-day in order to examine the west side of the North Col. but ns Mallory decided against trying it in 19J1 and Shipton's party disliked the look of it Inst year, T cannot be optimistic.”