GARDEN NOTES

Manawatu Times, Volume 68, Issue 205, 30 August 1943, Page 6

GARDEN NOTES

By “Ngaio.” Cabbages and cauliflowers are often treated very casually by the gardener, presumably because they are considered “ordinary” vegetables and not sufficiently interesting to warrant special attention; still it should be remembered that i they are going to take up a good deal of space fpr quite a long time, therefore, it is definitely worth while to get the most out of your ground by growing them well if you are going to grow them at all. These two crops like plenty of good food and should have animal manure dug in some time before planting, and lime should be used on the surface later if it has not been previously Incorporated in the soil. Choose plants which are stocky rather than lanky and cut off any long tap root and shorten the tops if necessary. Plant about 18 inches apart and see that they are firmly in, with the soil coming no farther up than the junction of the leaves and stent. As the plants grow, earth them up and keep them constantly hoed. Do not let the soil cake round them after rain, keep it friable all the season; stamp the plants in occasionally if they seem loosened after a Heavy wind—you cannot expect them to do well if they have to spend their energy keeping contact witfi 'the ground. Constant earthing up as the plants develop will prevent them growing a long “leg” which usually has an inferior head on top of it. It is very important that cabbages and cauliflowers should be grown without a check at any stage of their development. See that they do not want for water at any time—just when the heads are beginning to form some liquid manure will help them along considerably. Another important point to ! remember is that the right varieties should be selected for the time of year. For present planting Enfield Market is now obtainable and can be followed by the garden variety of the Drumhead. The Savoy cabbage is the best to grow’ for winter use; seed can be sown in October and November. White butterfly can be controlled by fortnightly application of derridust. Attacks on young plants can be warded off by dipping them in a solution of arsenate of lead before planting—a dessertspoonful to two gallons of water. Somehow in the summer, cabbage seems to be a “hot” vegetable so arrange your crops to have them mostly in the spring and winter. Pens and beans are more appreciated in the summer and “cooler’ greens such as summer spinach and lettuce. Early London and Early Snowball are good varieties to get plants of now’. These can be followed by main crop varieties and then broccoli should be sown in October and November for winter use; you will be disappointed if you try to grow the tender cauliflower in wdnter. Broccoli is definitely much hardier and stands up better to rain and frost. There are various types of broccoli which should be included in the vegetable supply to add variety to the menu later, these are the purple sprouting, whitesprouting and nine star perennial broo coli. The first produces flower heads somew’hat resembling that of the turnip before it opens out and is entirely differ ent from the cauliflower type. The flower heads and picked when young, the leaves l and stems left on, and it is a very dejlicious vegetable. The white sprouting ' produces one large central bead and where this is cut, numerous small heads sprout up ’over a considerable period. The nine star perennial should be sown now planted out with plenty of space between the plants—about three feet—and each one will produce from five to twelve heads of good size and quality next season.