CHRYSANTHEMUM CLUB.

Manawatu Standard, Volume LIV, Issue 56, 3 February 1934, Page 2

CHRYSANTHEMUM CLUB.

The last week or two have been very trying for all who grow plants of any description. The chrysanthemum grower may be the most affected as his or her plants are probably the most brittle of any. Readers of this column will have learnt lately (if not before) the need of tying their plants well. If the weather continues rough it will be advisable to shelter the windward side of the plants with scrim or similar material. The plants will, if fairly well sheltered, have made most remarkable growth lately; it is possible that this is the fastest growing period for them. Those who are growing flowers on the second crown and have left the three top shoots growing should now restrict the three stems on a plant to only one shoot each. At the end of this shoot will appear a bud, and this bud will be the one to save for flowers. Therefore these shoots must be well protected, and plants well sprayed to keep the caterpillars at bay. Spray arsenate of lead.

Rust will probably make a start upon plants now, especially if we get any large amount of rain. This disease will appear at first like yellow pollen from a marrow flower, and will be found on the under surface of the lower leaves generally; in time it gets harder and of a darker reddish brown colour, and forms a scab more or less in small .patches and can be picked off with the thumb nail. Spray lime sulphur and colloidal or Bordeaux mixture.

To obtain good blooms, feeding should be commenced as soon as the plant shows the bud, and continued until the bud shows colour, when it should cease. Start once a week with a weak liquid manure and then increase to twice a week. Well- rotted farmyard manure, soot and superphosphate can be used; the, main aim is to vary the manure as much as possible. Keep all lateral growths off except the top three, until the bud appears. Those growing the flowers on the first crown buds can adopt the same rules.