EDWARDIAN FRILLS

Evening Post, Volume CXVI, Issue 105, 31 October 1933, Page 13

EDWARDIAN FRILLS

EXQUISITE SIMPLICITY!

(Written for "The Post" by Nelle M. Scanlan.) LONDON, September 22. Soft elusive scent, veiled effects, and the intrigue of frilly petticoats; a return to exquisite simplicity! ' This is to be the keynote of our new fashions, says Peter Russell, one of the- young men who is trying to win from Baris the right.to design clothes for Englishwomen. Yesterday I watched his slim mannequins sweep down the stairs, trailing this "intriguing" loveliness before our eyes. A glass of sherry beforehand prepares a receptive mood <fdr oven the most astonishing creation. A fork luncheon afterwards, with grouse patties and f ois • gras, and salads and white wine sews the final hook-and-eye on a pleasant morning. But one must not permit 'it to impair the judgment. "Exquisite simplicity!" he said. Expensive simplicity would be nearer the mark. Several of the models had been chosen by cinema stars for new films in which they are appearing. Others had that exotic simplicity which requires the stage and footlights as its setting. Peter Russell's gowns cannot be copied by the little dressmaker round the corner. He was most emphatic in his denunciation of the freak sleeves that are being worn—Alcoves with verandahs and porticos over the shoulder, with upstanding frills and pleats spraying the ears, and ridges up to brow level; sleeves over which no coat or wrap will go. While the warm weather lasts, they may enjoy a brief innings, but this madness above the elbow is surely just a stunt. ■ . "I am fighting to get back to the charm of the Edwardian age—to the bell silhouette, slim to the knees and flaring below with i tho rustle, of silk frills beneath, and taffeta petticoats with ruchings at the foot." He spoke of "melodies in colour": wild sloe, dawn red, mauve white, dried currant, mountain ash were among his favourite*. The bridal gown was Madonna blue lace over white satin, the blue lace appliqued on to the voluminous veil, and with, this was worn a quaint head-drcss-T-a coronet of dull stones, surmounting a Plantagenct chin-strap of blue lace. V SIMPLE BUT EXPENSIVE. A coat and skirt of summer ermine"! Think of it. Expensive simplicity if you like. Yet at the distance it looked rather like a rough-dried Shantung. A, severely tailored cocktail suit of cloth of silver was shiny as an aluminium pot. Another cocktail suit of scarlet and black was very dashing, the new three-quarter length coat, of scarlet having large frogs • down the front, like a bandmaster. An amusing gown was the "Dalmatian." It was white velvet covered with irregular black spots, like a Dalmatian dog. Another gown based on an animal, was tho clinging leopard skin velvet. ' A gold sunray-pleated evening gown was made of 18-carat gold hand-spray-ed on to satin. A beaver hug-me-tight was worn over a black satin dress. Another neat black satin frock had a coat with, that smart no-collar line which is rather severe, and cuffs of ermine like a hearthrug hung over each arm. pne evening dress was made of white elastic lace, only one- and a half yards being used for this model, but it clung so closely that it did more to reveal than conceal thetcontours of the figure.

In« fact, most of the dresses were extremely tight, to the knees. There were many with taffeta or moire underskirts with much frilling or ruching at the foot, and in some cases this was several inches longer than the overskirt; a blade satin, with white ruched taffeta underskirt showing a foot below. One brown' dress was entirely covered with fine rows of white, machine stitching— a long and thankless task. Smocking took in the slack "in another, and moulded the fullness to the figure. Skintight skirts had equally skimpy blouses of a contrasting colour: wine red coat and skirt with a cocoa brown blouse. There were many elegant evening gowns, rich velvets, spangled nets, frilltjd chiffon. One white satin had tiny white satin bows down the centre back and front, like buttons. The hats to match were small, shaped, and swathed with prevailing note high at the back, and flat on the brow. ATMOSPHERE OF DISTINCTION. / In the afternoon I watched the Revillo revelations at Hanover Square, where the mannequins walk down the crimson plank to seductive music. The large room1 was full of interested women, while the rain outside gave the dght. atmosphere for viewing tweeds and velvets and furs. Among the crowd [ saw Lady Brassey, Countess of Ellesr mere, Lady Illingworth, Lady Helen Murray, Hon. Margaret Guest, and Miss Ivy Tresmand and Miss Greta Nissen, the film stars. Bevilles special colours for the season are corona, brown, conker brown, printers' ink black, angel white, iceberg grey, Aberdeen granite, elephant's ear, watercress green, wet olive. "Go" gTeen and "stop" red, the colour of the hew traffic signals are also popular this season. Bevilles also support the return to Edwardian lines, which has brought back many of the old materials—Ottomanj lace, velvet, paradise plumes, and embroideries. Their models were less extreme, and though extremely smart would not embarrass even a conservative Englishwoman. > 'If you fling a heavy string of beads round your neck, up under the chin in front, and dropping low1-at the back, you have the new Seville - neckline. Black and white was very popular, and retains its smartness. A neckband and cuffs of inch-wide ermine was a charming finish to ono black niodel. Several of' the whit© gowns had bands of black, one evening dress in white satin had a harness of black sequin bands. A gorgeous evening gown, a silver sequin, sheath, had paradise plumes at back and front of each

shoulder, mounting upwards in graceful crests. A magnificent fox fur wrap not only, encircled the shoulders, but took a turn round the elbow as well. A cocktail suit of plum ..velvet had a blouse of silver and blue oriental brocade. Shoulder effects are wide, and tho tops of many of the sleeves are padded and stiffened. ; A lovely evening gown for a young girl was in forget-me-not blue taffeta, shaped to fit with many seams, and down each seam a graduated frill, widening at the feet. Most evening dresses had a slight train, and when tulle or lace were worn over taffeta petticoats, they were.much befrilled and very wide. '' ' The new skirt length is much, the same, mid-calf for costumes and tweeds, a little longer for street frocks, but sweeping, generously and dangerously in the evening. Most of the backless evening gowns have a coatee or capo to match,, often trimmed with velvet flowers. Many street dresses had three-qnarter coats, or tunic effects. The tailored line is favouring cravats and stocks which, tie in front, instead of revers. You find this also in the finer furs. The line of today really moulds the figure, but flares or is frilled at the knee. This talk of hobble skirts is all nonsense. . . ■■.".-'