A VEGETABLE GARDEN

Dominion, Volume 22, Issue 266, 6 August 1929, Page 10

A VEGETABLE GARDEN

IMPORTANCE OF THE SOIL FONT'S FOR AMATEURS An interesting address on the vegetable garden and its numerous products was given to the Workers’ Educational Association at the Trades Hall by Mr. M. Davey, of the Horticulture Division of the Department of Agriculture. He said that the first consideration in vegetable-growing must always ba the nature and condition of the soil, and if the ground to be utilised did not possess rich, deep, loamy soil with perfect drainage—the ideal conditions —the gardener must, by his own efforts, cultivate and enrich the land by methods which would ultimately bring the land towards the conditions essential to the production of good vegetables. “The four primary elements which enter into the conditions of most soils,” said Mr. Davey, “are clay, sand, lime and humus, and if one or more of these constituents are deficient in major proportions, the aim of the gardener should be to replace or supplement them. Clays, which lire colder than light soils, should be opened up by the introduction of sand, dressings of lime and humus, thus enabling the ground to readily part with surplus moisture, and the rays of the sun to penetrate the ground. Organic manure and green crops dug in will greatly improve this class of land. Any form of sand or grit may be used, such ns road-sweepings, old mortar or river sand. In soils with heavy clay subsoils, the latter should not be brought to the surface, but improved by a vigorous svstem of drainage. Tile drains are preferable, but open drains provide effectual drainage in cases where expense has to be considered. With loamy soils this is not necessary, but where the ground is light and sandy to an extreme gardeners should make every effort to add to the humus content, and so conserve all moisture in order to prevent hot conditions and rapid drying-out in midsummer. The Value of Cow Manure. “If cow manure is obtainable It can be applied in large quantities to this, class of soil with advantage, and is superior to any other form of organic manure. It is termed a cool manure, and retains large quantities of moisture when buried in the soil. Occasionally dark and peaty soils present a difficulty, m which case drainage and small but frequent top dressings of lime will do much towards correcting the undesirable conditions. The advice frequently given to beginners to trench their ground from two to three feet is very sound, and helps to lay the foundation for good crops for many years, providing the ground is of a fertile nature and composed of a deep mould, but it is unwise to employ this method of treatment on land with only a email depth of mould and an indifferent subsoil. Trenching of a gradual (jature Is best resorted to under such conditions. “It is essential that ground should be left unoccupied by crops, for a time with the soil in a rough and lightly-thrown-to-gether condition, to obtain the beneficial effects of wind and frost, and as Opportunity offers a green crop should be sown in to prevent the germination of weeds, and for digging in later. When digging is in progress it is important to incorporate any organic or vegetable manures as thoroughly as possible with the soil. Rotation of Crops. “An important system in the successful cultivation of vegetables which is too often neglected,” said Mr. Davey, “is that of rotation of crops. This ensures that no crop shall be grown successively in the same ground, as a given, species of plant absorbs certain essential plant foods from the soil, which cannot therefore produce another equal crop of the same species unless the plant food used has been made good either by the application of manure, or more naturally by the action of atmosphere and soil solvents during a period of rest of rotation." The lecturer suggested a simple method of classifying crops into a rotation of four, viz., fibrous-rooted, tap-rooted, tuberousrooted, and legumes, and pointed out that with permanent crops such as asparagus, rhubarb, and sea kale, a new site for fresh beds should always be selected. He urged his hearers always to buy the best seed obtainable as the outlay represented only a very small fraction of the value of a well-produced crop. Much helpful advice was given in regard to the sowing of seeds and their subsequent planting out after germination, and Mr. Davey explained the best methods for watering, thinning out, and earthing up. He dealt in detail with the various characteristics of the numerous vegetables grown an dtheir special requirements, and concluded an informative lecture by describing how to make a useful hot-bed and frame. Mr. Davey specially commended to his audience the following advice given by Sinclair in his excellent book on “Gardening in New Zealand”: — Don’t bring crude subsoil to the surface and expect to grow good crops in it. Don’t make the ground fine on top during winter digging; leave it rough so that the weather can pulverise and sweeten it. Don’t dig land when, it is very wet from recent rain. Don’t apply manure and lime to the land at the same time, or much of the virtue of the manure will be lost. Don’t let crops of the same class follow one another in the same soil. Don’t sow seeds in hard or dry soil, or when it is wet and sticky. Don’t sow seeds too thickly, as this induces a spindly habit. Don't sow tender Subjects, such as dwarf and runner beans, marrows and pumpkins until’ danger of late frost is past. Don’t water a little and often, but give a good soaking when necessary. Don’t neglect the use of the Dutch hoe during a period of dry weather; it acts asa good conserve? of moisture. Don’t forget to earth-up vegetables as they become fit, as this operation is of great assistance to growth. Don’t forget to lift and rest rhubarb and sea kale before introducing them into heat for forcing. Don’t cut asparagus too late in the season, or the following year's crop will be impaired. Don’t neglect to give asparagus plenty of water and liquid manure during the growing season. Don’t plant asparagus roots till the sap is flowing in September if you want to have vigorous slants. Don’t sow root crops where green manure has been dug in. Don’t neglect to thin out root crops as soon as they are fit to handle. Don’t forget to water celery thoroughly well before and after it is planted. Don’t leave old cauliflower or broccoli stumps in the ground after the beads arts cut: thev impoverish the soil. Don’t leave ' old leaves on cabbage stumps after the heads are cut, especially when the diamond-back moth is about. Don’t forget that leeks are gross feeders, and the ground can hardly be overmanured for them. Don’t forget to give early potatoes some protection from late frost. Don’t neglect the training of tomato plants, as this goes a long way towards getting larger and finer fruit. Don’t forget thnt the tomato is a lover of potash, and potash in some form should be supplied to the plants. Don’t leave garden refuse about to harbour snails, slugs, and other pests. But it in a heap and mix lime with it: il makes a valuable manure. Don’t forget that prevention is better than cure in dealing with blights, but take defensive measures as soon as they appear. __________