STYLES IN CUTTING PRECIOUS STONES

Press, Volume CI, Issue 30007, 17 December 1962, Page 14

STYLES IN CUTTING PRECIOUS STONES

(By

ZALIA THOMAS]

Princess Alexandra’s engagement and the interest in her engagement ring of sapphire and diamonds have focused attention on precious stones and the methods of cutting them, and poses the question, “Why do we associate a precious stone with a particular style of cutting —round cut rubies, squarecut emeralds, etc?” Actually there is no reason why ainy cut cannot be used on coloured stones for rings bearing in mind that the style of cut will tend to follow the shape of the stone in the rough. A square-cut ruby is rare, these lovely stones being seen nearly always in round (as chosen by Princess Margaret for her engagement ring) or oval shapes. Here again there is no reason why a ruby could not be cut, for unusual effect, in a square or rectangle. Recently, at least, cutting in the more conventional round style has been a re-

suit of their steep rise in value—cutting the most economical way from the rough ruby has been imperaitive, and rubies most often come in round, waterworn shapes, as they are often found in >ld riverbeds. Sapphires, like rubies, are often found as crystals in alluvial river-beds. These stones do show more variety in cutting and one sees all shapes and styles of cut, but the one chosen by the Duchess of Kent is a large oval. Diamond Shapes It is in the diamond (Queen Elizabeth’s choice) that almost every shape is used in the cutter’s art. There are kite shapes; the delicate, boait-shaped marquise; the square or rectangular shapes. It can be cut into differentlyshaped hexagons or even as a half-moon. Baton and baguette cuts are common, triangles and trapeze shapes have been seen, and the latest of all is the Princess cut, launched only last year. Of course, the most often seen and the favourite for rings is the brilliant diamond. With the diamond, it is less important to cut according to the shape erf the rough stone, since diamonds are used so often in all types of jewellery that even the tiniest off-cuts can be used. Different periods are associated with different cuts of stone, too. Today the trend is towards the oval and marquise type of cuts which have such a slimming effect on the hand when used in rings. The Elizabethans loved the rose cut, the Victorians favoured the ovals and squarish cushion cuts, and in the thirties the emerald cut held sway.