Gardeners' Queries—

Press, Volume C, Issue 29643, 13 October 1961, Page 8

Gardeners ' Queries —

I have tome lovely narcissi which are being choked by grass. When can 1 move then* to a better place without storing them—Just lifting and replanting straight away? We have a peony which has not lowered for 2* years, simply producing •ewer. Is it a hopeless case? (K.M.D.. Malcolm *v*.). Narcissi are best lilted when they have gone dormant, which is usually in December. In your case, however, where you may have difficulty in finding the bulbs, it would be best to lift them when their leaves turn yellow, previous to complete shrivelling. You can thus track the bulbs without having to dig extensive areas of ground, and the slightly premature digging will cause little harm. If your peony is in too dense a shade it will be discouraged from flowering; it will also fail to produce flower if insufficiently red. The peony is a fairly gross feeder, and should be mulched each year to be sure of flower, preferably using compost or animal manure. This should be carried out in late winter or early spring before shoots emerge. If mulching ha* been missed it should be carried out as soon a* possible so that it mav encourage vigorous bud formation for next season. I have a “C.B. van Ness” rhododendron purchased last year. About half the leaves have brown tips, but otherwise the plant looks healthy, and Win be producing its first bloom this season. A sawdust mulch was applied early last summer, and water wa* provided fairly freauently. Have you any suggestions on the cause of the leaf damage? (A.H.W., gclwyn st.) This damage was caused during the early life of the leaf, and I suspect that exposure to wind was the cause. R is certainly the commonest reason for leaf mark* such as the specimen you sent. Sawdust and watering would reduce the liability of damage, but both should be present until the new leaf growth has hardened. "C.B. van Ness” 1* not so resistant to climate as are some rhododendron hybrids, and it bums more readily from wind exposure. Could you tell me why my fritillaries do not bloom? I have hag them in several positions, but they seem to multiply and only young ones appear. Do the old ones die away? We have good drainage and I have placed sand round some to see if tM* makes anv difference. but it doesn't. In our previous term they did well, and I would have a ?S?gisrS^v*e t ».) OBCe The snake's head frittllarv. to which I presume you refer for tow® «y «tort». is definitely persistent and does not die away. I am wondering whether IS '/ S wild in Oxfordshire in and are always found in wife ddffip nater-masdnws. a damp and nightly shaded place may produce results, and they certatnly seem to do well in this position in local reck gardens, ■lindnem 1* sometimes due to

liable book on miniofure bulbs the author advises a dressing of bone meal as the remedy for leaf formation without flower. I enclose a sample of bulbs which never flower. I have had them IS to ZS rears and they increase regularly, but never a bud. I have tried them in various positions and spacing* but to no avail. Rave you any suggestions? (G.t.S., Avonside.) Your bulb is Narcissus tazetta oanaliculatus. and I’m afraid it has rather a bad reputation about flowering. We have a » been there. One leading grower dU; you have ample o»®-