IN THE REALM OF DRESS.

Press, Volume LIX, Issue 17748, 27 April 1923, Page 2

IN THE REALM OF DRESS.

SOME EARLY TENDENCIES. AN INTERIM OF EXTREMES. (7KOU Otra O"WN COBHESPOKDEKT.) LONDON, March 17 Dress parades are taking place daily —one might almost say hourly, and at every hour of the day, seeing that important people accept invitations to attend mannequin processions beginning at midnight, either indoors or on the roof garden of an hotel. They are quite wonderful events —beautiful mannequins, appropriate music, soft lights, and choice refreshments. Professional dancers are there as well, and the evening winds up with revelry, at the early hour ot 2.30 a.m. Luncheons and afternoon teas also form part of the joys of dress shows held during the day. Of course one sees wonderful clothes and spiendad ehects, but whether much tnat is shown is of practical vaiue is a matter of opinion. One realises tnat this is a difficult interval, so one always looks for extremes, and the charitable make due allowances for these, feeling sure that in good time all excesses will right themselves. For instance, take sleeves or no sleeves. VY ell, still much too often thev are absolutely non-existent. Then at the other extreme, one is shown flowing sleeves whose long extenuations droop to within an inch of the floor. ALany-sleeves are ornate, with a great deal of wrist ornamentation, varying from a succession of frills to dangling panels which are sure to spend half their time in the soup. Other sleeves —coat sleeves, for instance, are 6till very wide at the wrist, and they are a recognised nuisance at meal times. Further, suppose sleaves are there; in the case of an evening dress they need not match—one may be of georgette and the other of tinsel, hut all these differences add much to variety. The fashion for loose, artistic sleeves of a different colour from the dress is by no means extinct. Again, take the general outline effect. Sometimes the mannequin looks as if she had stepped out of a sardine tin, so sheathed is she in her sinuous gown of rich brocade, faithfully clinging to her at every inch. The next mannequin comes forth in a frock of quite l&arljil Victorian design, with extremely wide wired hips, rounded neck with shoulders bare, and quaint little laced bodice of taffetas silk; the edge of her skirt is. cut out in wide scallops, and the longest section of each scallop is always nearer the floor than the ankles. The sinuous lady, too, clasps tightly round her a gorgeous cloak of brocade or velvet, finished with a deep coljar of flower petals, mingling with ostrich feather.

What about skirts P Generally they are decidedly longer, and' most often thev are of that awkward length that movement is difficult when the line is a very-narrow one, as it too often is. Skirts may be draped or they may be fitted with flowing panels of all sorts of lengths, but the under section is still consmcuousl-.- narrow. And, what is very depressing, Paris .predicts that skirts of tailor-mades will be xji°r« v skimpy than they have been of late. But, in the case of plisse skirts, of which there fortunately are many, in substantial crepe de chine and good fine fancy gabs, there is plenty of scope for comfortable movement, whiU the line at the same time remains slender in effect. Some dresses of figured ninon are one mass of the finest plisse, with a deep plisse cape frill that falls over the corsage.

From Anywhere. At the moment there, is immense diversity in the formation of a train, and the majority of evening gowns are required to show one somewhere, though its source is often difficult to trace; if not a train, it must be »a floating panel, and the source of this, too, is often quite a surprise. The train may spring from tue drapery that is caught on one hip, or it may spring on either side from both hipß; it may be arranged from the back of tht waist; from one shoulder or from both shoulders ; or it may be a great butterflyeffect with the tip of each wing attached to the shoulder-blade j or, most uncommon arrangement of all, it may be a transparency that takes it Hse in the hair, raised high over the too of an enormsus Spanish comb, and falling in an" unbroken cascade to sweep the floor. Indeed, there are no end to the surprises, but beneath the train there is the sinuous drapery that makes it difficult even for the practised mannequin to walk gracefully up a staircase. So slim are the parading ladies now that one wonders if all their form has been massaged out of existence. They- still propel themselves on.■ the un-safe-looking heels of excessive height and slender build.

Trains and floating panels seem to have inspired milliners to follow suit, and a few who are well in adivonce, are placing yard-long trails of flowers at one side of the very wide crinoline brim, so that in this way a rope of 'ijac and pink roses falls down oh the right ppde, either in front of the. shoulder or behind it, according to where it is most out of the mannequin's way. It is quite an idiotic idea, but it is the kind of excess that always marks the midway period. To the enoiiiry, What shall T wear at Court? What are the best kind, of dresses for the evening? a masculine authority replies: "Be brinrhtly clad, and you will be fashionable. Shimmer. and vou will be smart, and remember that Byzantine jewelled em-

broidery is the newest and the loveliest form of dress decoration." And then you are shown a gown that looks like molten silver, opening to show an v.nderdress of iiame-hued crepe half hidden bv swinging tassels of huge flameshaded beads: witli this there is a .train of tissue, shot green-biue, lavish witn opnls, moonstones, and pearls.

What Everyone Must Have. Very attractive, smart, anc] useful are the so-called three-piece costumes. To be exact, there generally are two pieces only—an entire dress and a coat or a cape. The dress often has its bodice section made of something which is .a contrast in colour as well as in material, but it is all in one, and its chief features are not discoverable until the cape or cibat is removed. Then corsage is displayed in all its glory, mbre or less elaborate as occasion requires; generally, it is one mass of multi-co.oured embroideries. Newer than the coat in the completion of this, the latest, sp-ring out-door costume, is a cape-like wrap, and this is a detail, that allows much scope for originality —-indeed, some, of the coats are made with a cape-like back. The cape may vary from a long cloak of silver crocodile cloth with collar of chinchilla, or it may be little more than an oval panel slung between the shoulders, or it may be a charming little gathered cape, round in shape, that fal<* from a ruched collar completing a dress to match. Indeed, there are any number of ways of varying this detachable section, and her© the clever dressmaker will be able to introduce her own individuality. One dainty little model was of cinnamon-coloured crepe de chine, with corsage of rust and gold brocade, and the cape, Blung from both shoulders, was bordered with beaver. When the coat is preferred, this is most often cut straight from neck to hem, ending generally just below the hips. Sometimes the still fashionable, low-waisted effect is carried out by means of an ornamental belt placed on the coat-edge, but there is not the exaggeratedly long waistline that there has been in the past. One notices with regard to dresses, too, the tendency to raise the waistline slightly, so that it is indicated more often above the hips than below them. In this respect the spring models are characterised by an absence of exaggeration. In very dark blue crepe de chine, one costume had wide bell-sleeves with deep cuffs of striped Kasha cloth; the coat removed displayed a bodice of the striped fabric, and further inspection revealed the fact that the loose hanging back panel was lined with the same; Some of the skirts are draped, some have the wrap-over front, and some are flounced, but in these days when labour is so costly, flounces will perhaps not become common, though they are seen from time to time on frocks for all occasions. At present there is still a great run on browns and beaver shades, but the dressmakers are showing many of their models in dark blue. Dresses are still straight in effect, but this does not prevent their sometimes being tjuite ornate, and colour touches are introduced as panels.

Details Noted. Sunshades and umbrellas are often very thick and stunted affairs; indeed, one mannequin this week carried hers slung from her wrist, just as if it were nothing more than a hand-bag. Extraordinarily elaborate mittens are beginning to arrive. Evening gloves oF full length are too extravagant except for special occasions, so refuge is to be sought in mittens.' They may be of the finest suede worked with the wearer's monogram in tiny pearls; or they may be of black silk lace, while, even Milanese silk, finished up the arm with frills of lace, will not be despised. Silk mittens will soon be available in a wide range of colourings, and some of them will he seen to have interwoven threads of tinsel in silver or gold. Again, there is no need for the hand-portion to be skintight. for it can De bell-shaped and stand away like a dress sleeve. There are some wonderful eweaters( made in Shetland; elaborate in pattern and quite variegated in effect. The Prince of Wales first took to these for sports wear, and now thej are si,v-fre-quently seen in the women's departments as in the men's. They are certainly very attractive.

The necks of dresses are, if anything, lower than ever, and.in cut the bateau line is liked better than the round or square. It certainly is more comfortable because the dresses with bateau-shaped necks are easier to get into.