CLIMBING TRIP

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 70, Issue 119, 4 March 1950, Page 4

CLIMBING TRIP

EREWHON ACTIVITIES HEADQUARTERS IN RANGITATA Recently a party 'of Erewhon members of the Canterbury Mountaineering Club spent a week climbing on the main divide at the headwaters of the Rangitata River. The main object of the trip was to climb three virgin peaks in this area, and in this the party were successful, and the proposed names for the peaks are, Eric Twins (7400 ft) and Dolphin Peak (7400 ft).

Whilst in the district a trip was made on to the Cloudy Range, where a large glacier was traversed, the pro posed name for this being “Rollover.” Also for future reference, two small creeks were given the names of Veil and Fan Creeks.

The party of five left Ashburton on a Saturday and, picking np a pack horse at Erewhon, began the long journey up the Havelock River in heavy snow, five inches deep most of the way. A stop was made at the club hut for lunch. Continuing, the party experienced reasonable weather until at 4.30 p.m., a snow storm whipped up over the divide, and it was in these conditions that the party arrived at the Eric Bivouac, very pleased of the shelter provided by this snug little alpine hut.

Five-Hour Trudge

An attempt was made to climb on to the Havelock Glacier on Sunday, but after a five-hour trudge in heavy snow, the party returned to the bivouac. However, the time was well spent as a route, which later proved successful when the peak was climbed later in the week, was observed on Mt. Sceptre. On Monday two of the party made an attempt to climb on to Terre Nouva Pass, but the. route to the terminal face of the St. Winifred Glacier proved much too difficult under the existing conditions, so the idea was abandoned, the bivouac being reached in the early afternoon.

Leaving at 4 a.m. on Tuesday and climbing up the Eric Stream, Gunn’s Pass was reached after four hours in somewhat doubtful weather. From here on to the summit of the first oi the twin virgin peaks occupied -an hour and a half. The climb on to the second of the peaks was effected in a high icy cold wind, and it was not until a little after midday that the summit was reached. A previously untraversed route along the divide was made from this summit to gain the top of the third virgin mountain in this area (Dolphin Peak). A descent to Dennistoun Pass was made on steep ice and rock, the party arriving at the bivouac at 6.30 after a hard but successful day. On Wednesday the only activity was in the form of a hunting trip, in this Nimrod was to the fore and secured fresh meat for the larder. Thursday was set aside for exploration in the head of the Cloudy Peak Range, so leaving at 4 a.m.,' the party moved up the Havelock River for an hour, and then struck up a creek (Veil Creek) to gain a steep rock ridge which rapidly gained height to the neve snows of an extensive glacier region in the upper limit of the Cloudy Range. The name “Rollover” is suggested as suitable for this glacier. From this point a second ascent, the first from the Havelock, was made of Mt. Tauroa (8000 ft.). Valuable data in the form of compass bearings and photographs w'ere obtained of this area which was hitherto a blank on the existing survey map. Leaving this summit at 11 a.m. the party descended onto Rollover Glacier, and traversed its entire length of a mil,© and a half, to gain the summits of two unclimbed peaks further along the range in an easterly direction. Fyom here the descent was to an unnamed col lying between the Clyde and Havelock Rivers. Continuing the return to the bivouac down Fan Creek, the party arrived at the rendezvous at 7 p.m. Friday’s activity was a short ascent of Miln Peak, mainly for photo graphic purposes and also to gain further experience in snow conditions on the Divide.

Severe Climb

At 4 a.m. on Saturday the party was under way to make a climb on Mt. Sceptre, an attractive glacierated peak on the Havelock Divide. The route previously observed earlier in the week was taken advantage of to gain the summit. Some of the rock and ice pitches encountered on the climb were very severe, but careful and steady climbing placed the party on the summit at 11.15 a.m., in magnificent weather which revealed a cloud patterned panorama extending from the Tasman Sea to the Pacific Ocean. Traversing along the divide the party made an interesting ascent of Mt. Outram. The descent was made to the neve of the Havelock Glacier down which the return was made to the bivouac. No trouble was experienced with any of the rivers encountered on the way home, and-a well-known climber was met on his way up to the area just vacated. On arrival at Erewhon the party was met by their transport and returned to Ashburton after a pleasant week spent in the high places of MidCanterbury.