THE GARDEN

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 65, Issue 268, 23 August 1945, Page 2

THE GARDEN

GENERAL ROUTINE WORK. (Written for the “Guardian” by W. B. Brockie, N.D.H., N.Z.) , PLANTS UNDER GLASS. Chrysanthemum cuttings inserted a month or so ago should now be rooted and will require to be grown on singly in 3-inch pots of light rich soil. By the middle of October these should be sufficiently advanced to be transferred to 6-inch pots. Cuttings may still be inserted but there should be no delav where it is intended to grow them for the production of large blooms. The young plants must be exposed to plenty of light to keep them sturdy, and artificial heat should be avoided unless it is necessary .to hurry on growth. Cold frame culture m full sunlight gives very satisfactory . results, the plants under such conditions having short internodes and leaves ol strong substance. A good soil mixture for chrysanthemums is made up of 4 parts fibrous loam or rotted turf and 1 part each of dried and sieved horse manure, leafmould and sharp sand; add to this a dusting of soot, wood ashes, lime and bonemeal. For the smaller pots the soil should be passed through a half-inch sieve but for the final potting into pots of 9 and 10-inch size it is better to be quite rough in its composition. Sow schizanthus for flowering in six-inch pots in December. ' Coleus raised from cuttings last autumn and grown on in 3-inch pots through the winter should be transferred to o-inch pots of rich soil. They must have warm conditions and plenty of light. Cuttings obtained from these, when heading the tips to cause branching, will, provide fine plants for a second batch. As cyclamen go out of flower stand the pots in a cool house and gradually withhold water from them as the leaves die off. THE FLOWER GARDEN. The work of renovating the mixed herbaceous perennial border should be undertaken as soon as the ground is reasonably dry. Some of the plants require to be lifted and divided each year at this time, including those of wide spreading growth such as some of the michaelmas daisies, rudbeckias, heleniums, solidagos and helianthus. Even those varieties of the above named which are tufted in their habit of growth are better divided and replanted with small pieces in. spring. Such things _ as border phlox, aquilegia, delphinium, lychnis, salvia azurea, sidalcea aiid geum do not need division annually but when they become weak from congestion of the roots aiu! stems this treatment is necessary. In starting on the work it is' a good plan first to dig up all the plants that are to be divided and place these alongside the border with their labels attached. This will leave a lot of empty space in the border and therefore allow the operation of digging to be a more straight-forward job. Manure can also be spread and dug in more evenly and perennial weeds such as twitch and dandelions are eradicated with less trouble than would be the case if all the plants were left in. Hard clods of earth should be well broken up. In replanting the small divisions, these may be planted in groups of three to a dozen according to the size of the border or singly if space is limited. Make the soil about the roots very firm by tramping around them and finish the job by removing all foot marks—a long-handled dung fork is a useful tool for this work. Later on, spaces between the perennial occupants can be filled with annuals as these become available. Ground should be prepared for a sowing of sweet peas. Fresh brown loam, especially if it is calcareous, produces the finest blooms and even a few barrowloads of this put in to replace some of the poorer subsoil will be of considerable benefit. , Trees and shrubs may still be planted but tliis work should be completed before the end of August if possible. Tramp the soil very firmly around the roots. Give light surface cultivation to beds of wallflower, polyanthus, for-get-me-not and spring flowering bulbs, using a digging fork in preference to a hoe. Gladioli may be planted to be followed by another batch in a month’s time. Set the corms four inches deep and at least four inches apart. Blood and bone is a good manure for them and they succeed best in rich, welldrained ' loam. The primulinus type have smaller flowers than those ordinarily grown and because of this they are often preferred for providing cut blooms. Rhododendrons and azaleas are greatly benefitted by a mulch of leafmould or rotted vegetable refuse. The ground around these plants should never be dug with spade, for the surface roots, which form a, fine network. are very important jn maintaining the trees in good health and digging almost completely destroys them. Surface roots are of course much exposed to drought conditions in summer and although the foliage of the rhododendron affords some shade and thus preserves a fair degree of moisture in the soil beneath it is much more satisfactory to ensure complete protection against dryness by mulching. Partially decomposed sawdust is excellent material for mulching, especially on heavy soil. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. Sow carrots, parsnips, beet and salsify in rich but not recently manured ground. Earlv sown carrots always give a better 'crop than t hose sown in late spring. The soil for them should be dug deeply and well pulverised. Do not tramp it too much though, of course, if the plot has been just newly dug and sowing is to be done immediately, the surface will have to be consolidated a little by tramping. If the ground is too hard on the surface it takes longer to warm up and it is more liable to cake after rain. Sow in drills half an inch deep and spaced 15 inches apart.' Sow lettuce in a warm situation and thin seedlings when they are about an inch and a half high. The thinnings should be planted out in another bed and these will provide a follow-on crop. A planting can be made now if plants are available. Space them six inches-apart witli a foot between the rows. Cabbage and cauliflower should be planted in richly manured ground. Set them in the bottom of drills two inches deep drawn out with a draw hoe. Asparagus is lies! grown in a bed four feet wide. This allows space for two rows 20 inches apart and the crowns, spaced IS inches apart in the row, should have their tops covered with 5 inches of soil. Two or three-year-old crowns are best. Prepare the ) bed by trenching it 3 feet deep, apd <

it is necessary to liberally enrich the soil with well rotted manure to maintain free growth over a long period of years. No sticks should be cut the first season. Sow green peas, broad beans, radish and turnips. Early potatoes may be planted.