THE GARDEN

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 62, Issue 85, 21 January 1942, Page 7

THE GARDEN

GENERAL ROUTINE WORK. (Written for the “Guardian” by W. B. Bbookie, N.D.H., N.tf.) GREENHOUSE PLANTS

For many years freesias have been deservedly popular for winter decoration in the greenhouse. Freesia refracto the ordinary cream coloured form is still largely grown and few flowers are so deliciously scented. In the last years, however, many varieties of pink and orange shades have been introduced. Best results are obtained by growing them in six-inch pots. The soil for freesias should be open in texture and fairly rich, a good mixture being made up of four parts fibrous turf and one part each of leafmould, cow manure and sand. The cow manure should be made perfectly dry and in a powdery condition. Plant a dozen bulbs in each pot, covering them with about an inch of soil. Stand the pots on a hard surface at the foot of a south wall and give them a thorough soaking with water. No more water wlil be needed until top growth appears. When the young blades are an inch high, remove the pots to a frame and increase the supply of water to them as growth proceeds. About the beginning of April bring them into the greenhouse where they should be stood well up to the light. Soon they will require support and this is best provided by inserting among them a number of silver birch twigs about 15 inches, in length. Cinerarias should be kept in moist surroundings. Partial shade is essential as nothing weakens them more than exposure to strong sunlight. Shift them into larger pots before the roots become congested. Continue to sow seeds of calceolarias. Sow very thinly on a perfectly level surface and maintain them in a moist condition until germination occurs.

Cyclamen seed may also be sown now. Germination is most successful in a constant temperature of CO degrees. Chrysanthemums will require constant attention. Side shoots should he pinched out while they are quite small. The terminal shoots must be well secured with ties. Lightly topdress with richly manured soil. THE FLOWER GARDEN. Maintain a tidy appearance in the herbaceous border by cutting over all seeding heads and withered stems. Tall-growing subjects should be examined frequently as at this time many of them such as hollyhocks, michaelmas daisies and heleniums are making rapid growth and require tying in to their stakes. Collect seed of aquilegias, delphiniums and lupins. These may be sown straight away to make flowering specimens for next summer. Russell lupins are especially useful for making a mass display in summer and first year plants produce a large number of spikes over a long period. Sow in boxes of light soil or in drills in the open garden covering the seed with a mixture of grit and finely sieved leafmould. Carnations and pinks may be increased from cuttings. Insert them in sandy soil in a sheltered and not too sunny part of the garden. In the case of the carnations the cuttings should be pulled from the plants so as to leave a heel of the older wood at the base. Trim hedges of olearia, privet, hawthorn, etc., and clean out any weeds harbouring at the base, The soft clippings may be stacked on the comport heap to rot. In poor soil, hedges will be much improved if a liberal quantity of rotted manure is lightly forked in among the surface roots. Clip back all ragged growth on violas and pansies. New growth will be encouraged if the soil is stirred around them and some richly manured leafsoil worked in among the stems. When plenty of basal shoots have formed the plants may be lifted and small rooted pieces replanted to increase the stock. Pansy seed should also be sown at this time. The seedlings are grown on in boxes of rich soil and planted out in the border about the middle of April.

Sow forget-me-not for flowering next spring. In cool places or where the border is fairly moist, if the grouiid has not been disturbed, a large crop of self-sown seedlings usually springs up around old plants and these may be pricked off into boxes or transferred to positions in the border where they are to flower. When transplanting them choose a dull day when the soil is moist.

Spring-flowering bulbs which should be planted as soon as possible to get the best results include snowdrops, grape hyacinths, crocus, and the meadow saffron or autumn crocus Colchicum speciosum.

This is the best time of the year for transplanting bulbs of the belladonna lily. A well drained soil in a sunny position is essential for their welfare. The bulbs, should be placed so that the tops will be eight inches below the surface. In heavy soil, however, shallower planting is advised. Pear slug is often troublesome on cherry trees and white beam and if not checked complete defoliation often results from their gluttinous activities. This pest is easily destroyed by spraying with arsenate of lead. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. Shallots should be lifted and dried as soon as the bulbs are mature. Sets should be retained for replanting at the end of winter. Continue to plant broccili, Savoys, and curly greens. A sowing should now be made of early spring cabbage. The most satisfactory results are obtained from plants raised in boxes of rich soil. Sow in a six-inch pot and while the seedlings are still in the seed leaf stage prick them off, two inches apart, into the boxes. The plants should he ready for planting out in March and the ground for them must he well pve-

pared beforehand by double digging. Mix plenty of manure with the lower spit. Leeks and celery may still be planted. Keep earlier batches of celery well watered and remove weeds from the trenches while they are quite small. A final sowing of globe beet will ensure a winter supply. Apply liquid manure to tomatoes as soon as the first, trusses begin to colour. Marrows and pumpkins should have the points of the shoots pinched off when they have filled their allotted space.