THE GARDEN

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 58, Issue 35, 20 November 1937, Page 5

THE GARDEN

GENERAL ROUTINE WORK. (Written for the “Guardian” by J. A. McPherson, N.Z.) MORE SEEDS TO SOW. Now that most annuals are out-of-doors, a little more space is left in the glass-houses. This does not mean that seed-sowing is finished, for attention must from now on be paid to the sowing and raising of hardy perennials. Seeds of Polyanthus are best sown this coming week, and when the seedlings are large enough to handle prick off into boxes of good rich soil so that large plants will be ready by the autumn for planting out. Sweet William may be treated in exactly the same manner and by this method strong well branched plants are obtained. When purchasing seed of this old garden favourite it is wise to exclude the purples and “auriculaeyed” varieties, since these two colours and combination of colours do not readily harmonise with the light and deep reds, pinks and salmon shades. White is quite a good colour if not used to excess. The seed of Sweet William is so easily harvested that gardeners can soon work up a good strain themselves by saving only those colours which please the eye. As Sweet William is rapidly gaining favour again in all parts of the world, its seed-sow-ing this week must not be overlooked. Forget-me-nots (Mysotis) for next spring’s display must also be sown and treated in a similar manner to Polyanthus and Sweet William. Sow seeds of Cinearias and Primulas for next season’s green-house display. Once the Cinerarias have been pricked off into boxes and reached a stage where their first potting into four-inch pots is necessary, place the pots outside in a very cool frame during the summer and further repot later on. Many gardeners make the mistake of growing these plants under glass from,, the seeding to the flowering stage with the result that the plants become drawn and sickly. It must be remembered that Cinerarias love a cool atmosphere, and are better left outside until frost appears. This method produces sturdy and dwarf plants covered in flower heads.

Though Wallflowars have just finished'their blooming, attention must be paid to the supply* of plants for next season. They are so easily grown that it is not necessary to keep old plants. AVhere special beds of this plant have been used for spring display, and the beds are now required for summer bedding plants, it is advisable to dig them out and throw them away with a confidence that seed sown now and the young plants properly handled will give better results than retaining the old stools. The next fortnight is an ideal time to sow Wallflower seed. Sow the seed in beds out-of-doors. A little . lime added to the seed beds will ward off attacks of club-root. Never sow the seed in boxes, because Wallflower require plenty of feeding and root room. Once the seedlings have made four pairs of healthy leaves they may be lined out in a vacant corner of the reserve garden, six inches between the plants and twelve inches between the rows. Water each plant thoroughly. This operation of lining out will come about the month of January, and the plants at once start to grow into sturdy wellshaped specimens ready to be again lifted and planted into permanent beds about April to stand the winter and produce a wealth of blossom in the next spring. ' The secret of obtaining good plants, if there be a secret at all, is to procure the seed now, treat as above stated and in spring every branch will bloom at the one time. Good varieties are obtainable at any seed merchant’s, and the following well tried varieties will act as a guide:—Blood Red, a well tried and indispensable variety; Cloth of Gold, the richest golden yellow obtainable; Fire King, vivid orange; Vulcan, a giant flowered crimson; Orange Bedder, deep orange, shading to apricot; and Eastern Queen, a soft apricot. When planting in then pei - manent positions it is advisable to mix a yellow variety with a dark variety, this gives a more pleasing effect, and the dark variety does not look so cold and sombre at a distance. • Sow small beds of Ranunculus and Anemone seeds and keep shaded unti the seedlings are well above the giound The “wool” attached to anemone seed often makes even sowing difficult, but this can be overcome by mixing sand with the seed and sowing both. THE FLOWER GARDEN. No more accommodating plants can be found for blooming at the present time than the Primulas from Western China. Perfectly hardy, very robust and exceedingly floriferous they fill 111 a gap until the main summer pmnts in the borders co-mo into bloom. They all delight in deeply worked soil with an abundant supply of moisture and look best when associated with trees and shrubs bordering a woodland neai a large pond. Even in the or din a±y flower border they are not out of place and all garden whether large or small should possess a few of each species. Primula japonica has bright red flowers arranged in whorls on stems eighteen inches high. There are many hybrids of this species and the coloui s 1 ange from almost pure white through shades of pink to the deepest red. P. Bulleyana is one of the same habit, the flowers a little smaller and orange m colour. P. Beesiana is deep blue while P. Rurmanica is a lovely brick red shade. P. Florindae is later in flowerand a soft yellow shade to its flowers, while P. helodoxa has fioweis of the brightest yellow. A very smal flowering species which is only biennial in habit is P. cockburniana with, whorls of small flowers of a brilliant orango tone. Primulas are easily raised from seed sown now or by division of the plants in early spring. During a hot summer do not permit the plants to become dry; but mulch with well rotted manure or grass trimmings. When soil conditions are suitable plant out dahlias and provide each with a stout stake. Carry out all bedding schemes and do not neglect to interplant wherever it can be done. This interplanting or underplanting may be likened, to planting catch crops in the vegetable garden . Sows seeds of Canary Creeper (Tropaeolum canariense) where they are intended to remain. This also applies to Nasturtium, Godetia, Clarkia and Linum rubrum.

Thin out young seedlings of annuals that were sown broadcast last month. A few dozen well grown plants give better bloom and last much longer than several hundred plants crammed together and all struggling for existence. Once Paeonies have finished blooming do not neglect the plants; but give them a good mulch that will assist in building up the crowns for next year. Clear away all wallflower and other spring plants.now past their best and plant up the garden for summer. Remove flowers from Irises as they die and should flowers of these plants be required for decorative purposes cut the stalks when the first flower is showing colour. Remove the dead flower stems from plants of Doronicum. This most useful yellow daisy-shaped flower produced on long stems so suitable for cutting, will send up another batch of bloom if treated in the above manner. Doronicums grow well either from seed or from division of the root stock in autumn. The ornamental Brooms are now blooming, and, where, space permits make a wonderful show. As soon as the flowers have finished, cut back the plants into more shapely bushes. PROVIDING CUT BLOOMS. The general household garden is called upon throughout the greater part of the year to provide a supply of cut blooms for indoor decorations. Unfortunately there is often a glut during two or three months and a paucity during the rest of the season. If, however, we study the time of flowering of many plants we can soon get together a list that will give us the desired supply of herbaceous plants only, but if one wishes to extend the season into winter as well then such shrubs as Winter Sweet, Buddleia salicifolia and Pyrus japonica (japonica) can be added. Let us start in very early spring with the flowering of Helleborus (winter rose), which bloom long before tho first daffodil shows its yellow head. Then comes that yellow daisy like the flower Doronicum accompanied by Dicentra (“bleeding heart”) and followed by Trollius (globe flower) and Primulas. Irises next come into bloom along with Dianthus (Pinks) and Heucheras (coral flowers). This brings us to November when Paeonies, Aquiiegias, Pyrethrums, and Oriental Poppies hold sway to be followed in December by Kniphofias (red-hot pokers), Delphiniums, and Thalictriuns. January sees Phlox, Gypsophylla and Sid alee a in full array, while Seleniums, Michaelmas Daisies, Rudbeckias, ■ and Chrysanthemums carry on into early winter. These are but a few perennials and no mention has been made of either bulbs or annuals. If these two latter classes were studied in the same way, I am satisfied that the average householder will derive added enjoyment from his garden.VEGETABLES AND FRUITS. Tomatoes for outside growing must be put into their permanent positions, usually against a south wall, as soon as possible. There is every prospect of a reasonably good crop from outdoor plants this season. Protect cherries from birds and gooseberries too, the latter are often attacked in dry spells by blackbirds. A few bird baths about the fruit garden often assist in keeping birds off the ripening fruit. Spray apples for red spider and mildew. Good light bulky soot is an excellent manure for onions and if- dusted over the plants will keep onion mildew in check.

Rhubarb is in plentiful supply in all gardens. Earth up potatoes from time to time preferably when the soil is not too dry. Sow French and Runner beans on warm areas and stake the latter at the first opportunity.