Special Problems in Laundry Work

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 87, Issue 2, 15 August 1953, Page 179

Special Problems in Laundry Work

IN last month's "Journal of Agriculture" Maud B. Strain, Field Officer in Rural Sociology, • Department of Agriculture, Dunedin, described correct laundry treatments for special materials and gave advice on suitable soaps and detergents, and in this, the second and concluding portion of the article, she deals with furnishing materials, blankets, and various other items.

THE routine week-to-week washing is only a small fraction of the potential laundrywork in the household. The remaining items, though needing less frequent attention, require a little more thought, time, and care for successful results. The problems encountered may be due to colour, design, or construction of the fabric, but no matter what the cause it is the housewife’s responsibility to keep the items aesthetically attractive. Furnishings With draperies and furnishings the question of shrinkage must be considered, and if there is any possibility of appreciable shrinkage, laundering should not be attempted. Any lined draperies are a risk because of the possibility of different degrees of shrinkage in the two materials, even a very small variation having a noticeable effect. Eiderdowns are difficult and a considerable risk for home laundering, and it is safer to send them to an experienced dry-cleaning firm; however, directions for laundering them have been included in this article. , Bedspreads Bedspreads should be washed by the methods suitable for their composition, that is, according to whether

they are of cotton, linen, rayon,- or other ■. fibres, and for their colour. Chenille bedspreads should be washed in lukewarm water with good suds as soon as they show soiling and then rinsed three times, the first time in water at the same temperature as the washing water. The wringer should be slackened off to give light pressure. After being passed through the wringer a bedspread should be shaken gently, stretched to shape, and hung wrong side out so that equal lengths are each side of the line. No ironing is necessary. Blankets The same care is needed for blankets as for other woollens. The whole washing process for woollens should be carried out as gently and as quickly as possible. The temperature of all waters used should be the same throughout. Thorough rinsing is essential, as soap left in tends to spoil the softness and delicacy of wool. When wet the articles should be lifted by both hands held underneath to give proper support and to guard against stretching. Woollen articles must never be rubbed; the suds should be squeezed gently through until the dirt disappears. When badly soiled areas on a blanket are to be cleaned the blanket may be laid out flat on a table and heavy suds worked through the

fabric of the soiled part with the palms of the hands, a circular motion being used. This is done before the whole blanket is wetted. Opinions as to the correct method of. washing blankets differ in detail, but all methods aim to produce clean, soft, fluffy blankets that have not shrunk or yellowed in the process. It is necessary to avoid changes of temperature, alkalis, and heat, and to avoid leaving the blankets wet longer than is necessary. Three methods, all well tried, are given here, as one method may be suitable when another would be impracticable. • A good drying day should be chosen, one on which there are not likely to be. ■ interruptions, and everything needed such as soap jelly, detergent, or borax should be in readiness before the blankets are wetted. Only neutral soap or soapflakes should be used, as strong alkalis cause yellowing and harshness in wool. Blankets should be hung over two lines to distribute the weight more evenly, and in a dry, shaded spot. If they are turned once or twice, drying will be hastened, and if they are shaken at the same time, it will help to make them fluffy. When dry the blankets should be brushed with a soft brush to raise the nap, which enables them to enclose more air, thus making them warmer. . First method: Lukewarm water is used throughout, at the same temperature for all stages. New blankets may be steeped for a few minutes . in. water containing a mild alkali such as borax (about l£oz. to each gallon of water) to neutralise any acid left in the wool by the bleaching process. Ammonia, being strongly alkaline, should not be

used with woollen goods. Steeping the blankets for a short time, even if they are : not . new, is an advantage, because they become acid after a long period of use. A synthetic detergent may be used in the steeping Water, and 'this will make easier the subsequent washing. The blankets are transferred from this steeping solution directly, into the washing water, which should contain sufficient soap to produce a 3in. lather and |oz. of borax per gallon of water. If a washing machine is used, it is advisable to do one blanket at a time, because if the blankets are tightly packed, the agitation needed for washing is so impeded as to be almost lost. The, machine should be fun for 1 minute then stopped for 2 minutes, this . routine being kept up for 10 minutes, during which the blanket is being agitated for only 3 minutes. If a blanket is heavily soiled, it should; be given a second wash before being rinsed. If rinsing is done in the machine, this should be run for. J minute, stopped for 1 minute, run for another. J minute, then drained, .and the . process repeated twice. , . , If washing is being done by - hand; it must be remembered that owing To the bulk and thickness of a blanket, a considerable amount of lifting and squeezing is necessary to force the dirty soap solution out into the rinsing water. Finally the blanket is passed and re- : passed through the wringer until no more water is expressed, shaken, and hung over the lines with the coloured borders vertical. Changing the. position occasionally assists drying and avoids the formation of permanent creases. When blankets are taken from the line they should be shaken, brushed if desired, folded, and aired. Blankets are no more liable to felt and shrink when washed in the machine -than with .careful hand washing, provided they are not left in the machine too long and provided the pressure on the wringer is not excessive. For maximum cleansing and minimum shrinkage: — 1. The blankets must not be tightly packed. 2. The machine should be stationary when the washing water is draining away and when the rinsing ; water is running into it. 3. The action of the machine should be interrupted so that there is not a continuous washing or rinsing action. For a good colour: — 1. Neutral , soap and a quarter of its weight of borax should be used. 2. The blankets should be steeped; in i water containing borax or synthetic detergent. 3. A good lather should be maintained during washing. 4. • Adequate rinsing is required. . -Second method: This method is taken from an article written .by Elaine Knowles Weaver, Associate Professor of Home Economics at Ohio State University, and published in “Electricity on the Farm Magazine”. It embodies the conclusions arrived at after lengthy research and describes how to launder ' blankets safely in either automatic or non-automatic washers.

1. Fill the machine with water which is comfortably warm to the hands. : . . , ■-- • •’ 2. Add detergent. For a “sudsing” variety use enough to get 2in. of suds; with a low-sudsing type use. about 2/3 cup, for each 10 . gallons of water. 3. Operate the washer ■ till the detergent is dissolved. 4. Examine the blanket for badly soiled spots or streaked bindings. If they are present, scrub them with a vegetable brush and detergent water. 5. Place the blanket in a washer and allow it to* soak for 15 to .20 minutes. Turn it over once or twice by hand. . 6. Extract the water by spinning or by passing the blanket through the wringer; then empty the washer. 7. Refill the washer with water of the same temperature: used in the washing and soak the blanket for 5 minutes, turning it right over by hand once or twice. 8. Extract the water and repeat the rinsing in lukewarm water. ■ , 9. Stretch the blanket vigorously. This is simpler if it can be done by two persons. If it has to be done single-handed, place the blanket over a line, draw the hems together, and pull evenly up and down the hems. . ’ 10. Dry the blanket over two : parallel lines, or turn ... it during . the drying if it is across, only one line. 11. When the blanket is dry lay it on a flat surface and brush it vigorously with a stiff, perfectly clean clothes . brush or a nylon hair brush. 12. : Sponge and press the bindings. This method of “soak laundering” is said to eliminate the hazard of matting • and shrinkage. It is claimed (after 500 laundering tests of new and used wool blankets in different washes) that “new blankets :shrank only a trifle, or not at all, and used blankets badly shrunken in previous laundering were reconditioned and elongated 4 to 6in. when finished by stretching and brushing.” Third method: This method applies not only to blankets, but gives excellent results / with all woollen articles. The requirement that the temperature of washing water for wool must be the same throughout is easily followed in this method by the use of cold water; not only will all the washing waters be at the same temperature, but there will not be much difference compared with the drying temperature outside. Soiling is only loosely held in woollen goods and can be removed without difficulty by squeezing and pressing mild soap suds through the fabric. The articles should be rinsed until the water, remains/clear, then dried and finished off in the manner appropriate to each article. Blankets should be ’ stretched and shaken before being hung outside in a shaded place. . Experience ~ over a period of years has shown this to be a most 'satisfactory method, resulting in clean, - soft, fluffy blankets without any felting or shrinkage. Blankets have been hand-washed throughout, except for the use of an electric wringer. . An obvious . -disadvantage is. the discomfort of working with cold water during many months of the year.

Curtains Curtains vary widely in fabric, colour, and thickness, depending on their use. In general they are laundered according to their fibre, and weave, but special precautions will be necessary if they are heavily ' soiled or weakened • in places through exposure to -. sunlight and air. . This applies especially to curtains .made totally or partly of rayon. Soiling is usually caused by .coarse particles of dust and grit,, and often by acid owing to exposure to the atmosphere. Before being washed curtains should always be shaken to remove as much loose dust as possible,. and pins should be removed and holes mended. ... ... White cotton, lace, and net curtains: Large- curtains may be folded to reduce the size and tacked : loosely. Steeping them in two or three, lots of water helps the removal of dirt. Half an ounce of modified soda (a mixture of equal quantities of washing soda and baking soda) per gallon of water may be added with advantage. If being' washed by hand and boiled in a copper, the . curtains should be handled carefully; being fragile, they should be squeezed and pressed rather , than rubbed. Tying them in a sheet is , a ■- safeguard against tearing, and they can be lifted from the copper by the knot in the sheet. If they , are washed in a washing machine, they should be placed 'in a pillow slip or bag. After thorough rinsing they should be passed flat through the wringer, any tinting or starching necessary being done at this time. It is advisable to starch a pair together to be certain of even stiffness. After the curtains have passed ■ through, the wringer tacking threads are -removed. . The curtains are .adjusted to their .proper shape and dried evenly on the lines. If an area of grass is available, the curtains ..may .be laid , out flat and . dried that way/?’- The drying of curtains is important, because if they dry out of shape, they cannot be made to hang evenly on the window. Curtains fixed on top and bottom rods may be put back on the window and dried in position. Curtains should be’ironed ;on the wrong side while slightly damp. If carefully done, ironing with slanting strokes across the width, -after first making sure the hem is straight, avoids uneven stretching of the edges as sometimes happens when ironing up and down. Folding should be : across the width because such folds hang out. / Coloured curtains are laundered according ,to their fibre composition, •that is, whether they are cotton, linen, or other material, and according to whether- the colours. are fast or fugitive. Heavy curtains .of chenille or velour should be moved up and down in a large tub. of soapy water or washed in a rotary-type washing machine, rinsed well, and without wringing hung up to dry. Eiderdowns and Sleeping Bags Unless the covers of eiderdowns and sleeping bags are of strong material, it is inadvisable to try washing them, because materials such as rayons lose strength when wet and may be split by the pressure of: water while.-they are being wrung. Another disadvantage is that washing will remove from some coverings the ; dressing which

makes them “down proof”. This is most undesirable where there is no inner case for the down. Eiderdowns and sleeping bags are bulky and difficult to dry and washing should not be attempted unless there are good facilities for drying outside, a breezy, ; good drying day, and .a. sufficiently large wringer. Warm soapy water should be used, , and a second washing water will be necessary if the covering is very soiled. , - . To lessen the chances of splitting the cover .it. is advisable to lift the eiderdown or- sleeping- bag: from the water on to . a board placed' across, the tubs and press out as much water and air as possible before passing it through the wringer. Also there must be only low pressure on the rollers. The article should ‘ be folded to fit the wringer and carefully and evenly fed in, as any drag on it may produce a tear; a strict watch must be kept to see that the cover does not. become distended by water unable • . to. escape ■ sufficiently quickly. Thorough rinsing is essential. The article should be shaken and the down re-arranged, after- which it should be hung over two lines to support the weight more evenly. Frequent shaking is necessary during the drying period to loosen- the down, and finally, when the article is dry, the cover should be ironed with a cool iron and the down- evenly distributed by manipulation with the fingers. Experience has shown , that it is difficult to make a thoroughly satisfactory iob of washing an eiderdown at home. If all traces of soapy-. . water are not removed in the rinsing (this is not easy on account!,, of the- eiderdown’s bulk, especially if : feathers are mixed with the down), .the colour of the -cover is liable to be patchy. Unless the filling is firmly held: in place with closely arranged quilting, it easily forms lumps with- corresponding lean patches, and the number of times the article must be passed through the wringer causes a constant danger of splitting the. cover or seams. . Loose Covers, . .. / . The loose, covers of chairs and other furniture should be tested for colour fastness and. shrinkage before being laundered. If this is not possible, dry cleaning is safer-than- Wet cleaning. The covers-should be vacuum cleaned before they are removed from the chair, shaken vigorously to remove all loose dust. and • dirt, . and . washed . m lukewarm water with rich suds made from neutral soap. They must be rinsed thoroughly and dried quickly, care being taken ; that they are not pulled out of shape while drying. They should be pressed while still damp, first on the wrong side, then on , the right, along the seams and’ cords., the fabric being pulled taut. . After - the

seams are pressed any flounces and pleats are ironed, then the seat, back, and arms. Slip covers will fit better if they are not ironed completely dry, but are replaced on the chair while still slightly damp, the seams being pulled to match the lines of upholstery and any extra fullness which may have developed being tucked in, or if necessary, tacked down in an inconspicuous place. Infants' Clothing Infants’ clothing should be washed separately from other clothing, and as it is usually made of more delicate fabrics, is best washed by hand. Apart from these special precautions infants’, garments are done in the same way as other garments, that is, washed in the manner suitable for the fabric of which they are made. Only pure soap should be used, not soda or washing powder. Diapers A covered pail of cold water should be kept for diapers and as soon as a diaper is removed it should be placed in the pail. The diapers should be boiled each day to sterilise them and maintain a good colour; if this is not possible every day, they should at least be scalded with boiling water. They must be well washed and thoroughly rinsed (blueing is not necessary) to remove every trace of soap. Soap left in the fabric is liable to cause skin irritation, as is blue, which contains a high proportion of baking soda. Wherever possible diapers should be dried in direct sunlight, shaken, folded, and well aired. Cotton and Linen Garments Cotton and linen garments are laundered in the same way as other personal linen, except that if they are soiled as are diapers, they need the same treatment. Nothing that could . possibly come in contact with a baby’s skin should ever be stiffened. If desired for any very special occasion, a slight stiffening with . gum . water (instructions for making gum water were given in the first part of this article in last month’s “Journal”),. is permissible for skirts of frocks or robes, but on no account should parts which touch the skin, such as neck bands, yokes of frocks, and sleeves have any stiffening. Woollens Infants’ woollens are usually light and open in texture and made from fine, soft wool to provide warmth without weight and to allow freedom of movement. They are delicate and should be laundered as such. A quantity of warm soft water, sufficient for all washing and rinsing, should be prepared. Enough soap jelly to make a good lather should be added to the washing water, and for new woollens a little borax should be added (ammonia should not be used). The garments should be squeezed, not twisted or wrung, and when being lifted from the water should be supported with both hands, the hands being placed underneath and the whole garment raised, and not pulled out of the water by one corner. Wool stretches and loses its shape very readily when wet. Rinsing in soft water is essential if the wool is to retain its original softness.

When woollens are being passed through the wringer the pressure on the rollers should be slackened. A

garment may be folded in a towel and put through the wringer several times to extract as much water as possible, Garments, hand-knitted ones . in. particular, should be worked into shape and dried flat; bonnets may be dried on a small bowl to help them retain shape. Cod liver oil stains are sometimes troublesome. They may not be noticed at the time of soiling, and only become evident after the article has been washed. If they are treated at once, warm soapy water is sufficient, but an old stain requires other methods such as the following: 1. Carbon tetrachloride may be applied to the stained fabric, which should be resting on an absorbent pad. The solvent dissolves the stain, which is absorbed by the pad underneath. 2. A small amount of pure lard may ■ be rubbed into the stain and the affected part washed. 3. A solvent soap (made by dissolving 1 tablespoon of soap flakes in 2 tablespoons of boiling water, and as this mixture cools and thickens tate) may 1 rubbed intone stain * a j .J? ay be r ubbea mto tne stain and the garment washed. Intec.ed Giothing Occasionally it is necessary to sterilise or disinfect articles of clothing and dressings. Sterilisation by boiling is simplest and most satisfactory for white cotton and linen, Infected articles should be kept separate from the general washing until they have been boiled for 10 minutes, as up to this stage they, and any soaking solution in which they have been kept, are infectious and capable of contaminating anything A winch they come in contact be^disin!ected C by C other means Soaking in a solution of 1 part of carbolic acid to 20 parts of water for 1 hour is

suitable treatment for all types of fabric. Various other disinfectants readily available may be used instead o f carbolic acid with equally satisfactory results These disinfectants are poisons and all necessary precautions must be rigidly observed. i Ar+irlAc LeaTner articles White or very light-coloured leather articles such as gloves and belts should be dry cleaned. Leather gloves of other colours should not be washed unless they are labelled by the manufacturers a ® washable. No gloves that have ever been dry cleaned should be washed. Waves ■, , , ,•,, , , , Washable gloves should be washed frequently, because heavy soiling has injuriou?'to e thelr S finish, y dye and surinjurious to fn! AvrAnS’onof chamois ac . e %e ? eepbon ol mav be and , nn g hXnds • y luklwarm suds badly soiled spots being brushed with a so brush. When clean the gloves should not be pulled off by the fingers, but gently rolled off from the wrists and the excess water extracted by rolling them in a towel. They should be rolled from the finger tips toward the wrist, the roll being kneaded. The gloves should be blown into to puff them into shape, placed on a towel, and dried away from the sun or any artificial heat. If cuffs or stitching are in contrasting colours, it is advisable to stuff w hite tissue paper inside the gloves, w , p H . ..~ . If the gloves are too stiff when ary, g r ey a m f X moments“nd thT’eather manipulated gently while it is damp Chamois and doeskin gloves are treated similarly, except that they are

not washed on . the hands, because they become soft when wet and might split along the seams. Slightly soapy final rinsing. water, assists the cleaning. Other types of . leather gloves may be sponged with a . soapless detergent, rinsed, dried, and treated with leather cream. yy .• ■■ ■ ' ' ••. Coats, Bags, and Trimmings Coats, bags, and trimmings may also be treated with soapless detergent, which,, is especially suitable for suede. It must be remembered that the effects of wear cannot be removed and that cleaning emphasises ' fading and wear of the . material. Specially Stained Clothing Ordinary spots and stains on cloth-, ing such .as food, ink,, and grease marks are removed by methods appropriate to the type of fabric, consideration being given to whether it is washable or not. The cleaning of washable and unwashable materials : was described in the Journal of Agriculture” for February and March 1950. Another type of discoloration, sometimes found on white .woollen and’ silk articles and known as “yellowing with age”, may be due to:— 1. The use of sulphur dioxide in the original bleaching of the wool and silk, which makes the bleached article tend to absorb oxygen from the air and return to its original colour. This is difficult to prevent,

because of exposure of the material to the air during wearing and dry- .. ing. The effect may be minimised ..by. rolling silks in a towel instead ', '■ of drying them outdoors and by avoiding bright sunshine. when drying white woollens. 2. Gradual accumulation of iron from the water supply. This applies .' especially to wool, which . readily . takes up iron from the washing water. Little can be done to control this. ; .. 1 3. The effect, over a long period, either . of using alkalis that are too strong or of not sufficiently rinsing out soap and mild, alkalis which concentrate into the fabric while it is drying. The condition can be avoided by thorough rinsing and by the use of only the mildest alkalis. Trimmings Trimmings sometimes necessitate the dry cleaning of an otherwise-washable garment. . - ■ Contrasting colours in piping and in bindings of buttonholes, . ties, and sashes must be tested for colour fastness before a garment is washed, as there is danger ,of the colours running into each other or “marking off” when wet. Imitation sequins, often made with a gelatine base which would soften or melt in hot water, should be removed if they are in the form of a motif which, is stitched on; otherwise the article should be dry cleaned. Whole rows of sequins may be attached by

one thread, and care must be taken, not to break this thread. Lacquered buttons and buckles should be removed before a garment is laundered. Warm soapy water, besides. possibly damaging the lacquer, could cause staining from the lacquer, to penetrate the surrounding material. Metal buttons, including those with a cloth covering, which may rust, are better removed. Plastic trimmings, buttons, and slide fasteners may in some cases soften or melt with the heat, and care must be taken in washing garments with such articles not to have the water too hot and not to leave them in the water long enough for these fittings to soften and lose shape. Slide fasteners must be closed and lying flat before being, passed through the wringer. In ironing care should be taken not to allow the iron to touch any plastic object. Articles for Dry Cleaning In general the following types of articles are better dry cleaned: — 1. Heavy outer clothing which would hold too much water, might shrink, and would be disarranged by washing, as, for example,. suits (woollen or worsted), overcoats, skirts, sports coats, and blazers. 2. Delicate fabrics of complicated construction such as evening dresses of . silks, crepes, velvets, and gossamer woollens. * 3. Fabrics with fugitive colours and garments with contrasting colours. 4. Fabrics with water-soluble .finishes or trimmings. 5. White or light-coloured leathers such ?as are . found in gloves,, belts, and such like. Colour-fastness Test The end of a belt or some inconspicuous part of a garment which requires - testing for colour ■ fastness ■■ may be immersed in a bowl of hot water and left for a few moments, then squeezed ' out and dried; it can then be compared with the untreated portion. If there is no appreciable difference and the water is not coloured, the material can be considered washable. If the water is tinted after the first test, it does not necessarily mean that the fabric is not colour fast, but if the water is still coloured after the second or third test, the colours must be regarded as fugitive and the article treated accordingly.. • ' Shrinkage Test To test for shrinkage a fairly large piece of material, say sin. square, is necessary. A piece of paper the exact size of the sample is cut for comparison. The sample of material is washed in the usual way and tested for size against the control paper. If. the sample is smaller, it should be ironed while still damp, . because sometimes ironing . corrects apparent shrinkage. If the washed and ironed sample is any smaller than the control paper, the material , is not unshrinkable, and if the article is already made up, it should be dry cleaned. If the material is not made up, it should be preshrunk. ' All ’ photographs by Campbell Photography Ltd.

Emergency Press for Ribbon or Collar .

[Sparrow IF hair ribbons, a loose collar, or the collar of a silk and rayon garment are crumpled and there is. insufficient time to heat the iron, smooth the ribbon or crumpled collar against the side of any clean and very hot kettle or pot that is already on the stove. —MOLLY MACPHERSON, Field Officer in Rural Sociology, Department of Agriculture, Auckland