A Settling Innovation in Dress.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLV, Issue 25, 21 December 1910, Page 74

A Settling Innovation in Dress.

SKIRTS PROPHESIED FOR STREET WEAR. "FASHIONS IN LONDON. ( y)m Our Lady Correspondent.) <>ds LONDON, November 4. M sflhave raised hands in horror at mar of the fashions thrust' upon us the last ir ,,w seasons, but there has appeared in [ oildon this week a style that will ccliji y all that lias gone before, an’ I not. roif Arcadians,” as everyone will kno,] is a musical comedy which has had v i w tremendously long ’ run at the r , ,sbury Theatre. 5 lerday it was redressed, for the time, with creations and—listen to n h s —forecasts of the winter’s fashion'lsi.nd, judging from the samples now beii t,, worn in the play, the very latest fre T i of fashion is in the shape of the div v j s jd skirt, which will certainly cause farvaOre sensation than even the hobkleqqiiirt’s first public appearance.

Perhaps the worst-its detractors could say about the horrible hobble Was' that it was stupid, ungraceful, and dangerous. It’s not improbable, I should mildly suggest, that a deal of eloquence will be expanded on this newest, evidence of -fashion. A first-class man dressmaker has maile the first sample worn in public, and it is a coait and skirt of rose-pink doth, the skirt being cut on straight and narrow lines, with the “divided” piece at the end of the skirt and continuing almost half way up. When sitting, the skirt looks exactly like a narrow ordinary one, but when walking it will resemble a miniature pair of trousers, merging into a skirt before the knees. Hats. There has been a decided change in the trimming of the many largo black velvet hats shown everywhere, in the last week. Leather flowers, such as I described in my last notes, are growing in favour, but large flat bows, in shape like wings of an aeroplane are widely popular. These are made in coloured silk veiled in a contrasting shade of ninon, in leather, and in black velvet edged- with white fur. The bows themselves are not at all graceful, but it cannot be denied that (the effect is trim and smart-looking. One model I was shown, of dark blue velvet, had no trimming save a great purple-blue sequin snake coiled round the crown. Another somewhat unusual style of trimming was shown on a model which had a shoulder scarf to match. This hat was of rucked mole-coloured silk, with a great square of fox fur laid over the crown, and with, nestling in the fur. a •bunch of gold, red, and white flowers. •Another hat was of black velvet, with an effective wreath round the crown of white cloth roses. Tapestry as a hat material is another innovation, and a delightful toque was of red tapestry edged with gold, with a large black osprey plume. A green-and-gold tapestry toque had a velvet brim and a large green “brush” in front. Nearly all these have lace underbrims or a lingerie frill of white, cream, black, or gold laee. Jet and -beads which arc so much in vogue on dresses have found their way also to millinery. Bandeaux. ,_-a With the. near approach of winder gaieties, all kinds of dainty -trifles are tempting women into shops. A pretty hair-ribbon, to be worn eoronet-wise or Greek fashion, is a band of pale coloured

velvet''ribban with, an embroidery of tinted pearls sewn oh in diamond shapes, with a brilliant in the middle of each division. Tulle, in delicate shades, is also going to be worn -with strings of pearls twisted loosely among the soft material. The Oriental note in’ bait' decoration seems to have disappta'red.-'-'this season. I Muffs. The latest Paris idea for the velvet “cushion” muff with ends turned back to reveal the silk lining, is to have detachable linings which can be slipped, on easily to match a particular note of the frock. The ends of these linings are fastened with elastic, which keeps them in position when turned 'back “cuff wise” over the muff. The feather toques, which have been the feature of the early autumn, are being imitated in muffs. Almost every species of game bird is used for the purpose, and stoles are made to match* Fashions for Children follow ever and ever more closely those of their elders, and one 'bonnet that I saw this week would have startled our grandmothers, 1 fancy. It was of marmot skin with revers of delicate Irish laee finished at -both sides •with bunches of imitation roses, and. was destined for a child of six or seven. Beads and crystals have found their way to children’s afternoon and party frocks, and some charming creations for little folks and young girls are to 'be seen in the shop windows. One is made of soft white silk, veiled with white ninon, the elbow sleeves and low collar and the bottom of the skirt being finished off with a delicate crystal fringe. Another pretty frock is of pale blue voile, over a pink underslip, and trimmed with beaded embroidery. Children’s fur coats and elaborate evening wraps are now provided also. Old Fashion Revived. The old fashion of the seventies of last century is to be brought to life again, we are told, and the fur dolman to reappear. One West End shop has at least a couple of examples. One specimen is in dark green velvet edged -with skunk, and trimmed with handsome gold embroidery. The large sleeves are fastened in at the high waist-line, ; while’, the cuffs are voluminous and turned*back with fur. • Another dolman is a gorgeous fur coat in black musquash with patterned lines of the same fur traced over the entire coat.