THE DRESSMAKING ART

New Zealand Graphic, Volume VI, Issue 26, 28 June 1890, Page 15

THE DRESSMAKING ART

PRACTICAL LESSONS IN HOW TO CUT ANO FIT GOWNS. THE FIFTH OF A SERIES OF IXSTRVCTIVE ARTICLES OX DRESSMAKIXG. THE ‘LEG OF MUTTON’ SLEEVE AND FIGARO BODICE. IT was thought that the fashion of skirts might change entirely, for still the straight sheathlike skirt seems likely to reign supreme; *i" but, excepting for heavy material or cloth gowns in tailor style, the edge will l>e re- • lieved by trimmings, or set out by means of Igfff-fi'’ battlements or loops, over a faring of other material. To present a fashionable appearance, the skirt must l>e close and tight, without steels or pad, and the sleeves should be tight-fitting Irelow the elbow, hut high ami frilled on the shoulder: and the bodice, if full above, must yet clearly define the waist, and preserve the outlines of the figure" The bonnet must be small and flat at the front, and raised just at the back : and the hair must l>e dressed at the back so that the coils, or pin curls, show at the back of the bonnet ; but it is quite a matter of taste as to these coilsreaching to the neck,’ or merely forming the high cluster, in imitation of the Grecian style of hairdressing.

The ‘gigot’ or ‘leg-of-mutton’ sleeve is now very generally used both for dresses and jackets, but more especially for velvet and for fabrics of rich or heavy texture. The top part is very full indeed, and this loose appearance extends quite to the elbow, and therefore gives a thick, clumsy efl’ect where the arms are round or plump, but is most becoming to a thin, flat arm. The lining is usually eut the same as the exterior; but the most successful method is to cut the lining by your ordinary pattern, and with the usual two seams, and then arrange the overpart over this.

The exact shane of the gigot sleeve as now worn is shown by No 1 and in tlie size for an arm of medium size and length. This is quite suitable for velvet and heavy textures, as it is cut on the straight, and being in one piece will not spoil the effect of a decided pattern. The measurements of the various parts are given in the diagram, but no seams, nems, or turnings are allowed for. The lining is eut of corresponding size, but with the usual seams, and this is seamed separately. The velvet is then joined up and slipped over the lining, and the fulness is secured in several places to keep it regular and uniform. The tacking should lie placer! al>out the position of the line marked across the diagram to show the width. The zouave or ‘ Figaro ’ jacket gains in popularity, and even if there is not a separate one the trimming is arranged

to imitate a zouave, or there is a sejiarate zouave front over the ordinary Unlive, which may be anange<l either as a plain bodjce or as a full belter! one.

We now show a very graceful little ‘Figaro’ jacket, which is useful alike lor day or evening wear. The fronts meet in the centre, and curve oft gracefully below the bust : but by sloping off an inch from either side, the fronts are left more oi>en, and this is advisable where a blouse is worn, or when there is a vest in the bodice. Our model is of black faille, trimmed pointed jet passementerie and small silk and bead drops, with the same vandyked trimming outlining the armhole. The sleeves are full and high, and cut as No. 1 and there is a Medici collar at the back, which is lined with velvet, and on the outside is of faille, trimmed jet. The back of the ‘ Figaro' jacket is cut up in a novel manner, and must lit closely, or it hangs away from the figure. The back has a centre seam only, and this is essential or it would lie impossible to obtain a close fit. It is a great mistake to cut these jackets too short, as they are considerably more becoming when they leave only the waist exposed, and suggest a more slender figure than where the whole outline from the bust is shown. The high collar is interlined with buckram, and sewn to the back of the Ims lice, instead of being attached to a band. Before trimming the armholes, they must be carefully sloped, and prepared for the sleeves, and this equally applies to a

bodice or jacket. Where a bodice is trimmed in this style to imitate a separate zouave, it is wise to run a line with coloured eotton to denote the position of the trimming ; and if this is tried on, it may lie seen if this line suits the figure. A small separate zouave of jetted grenadine, made without sleeves, and edged trimming, is very useful for evening wear, and may lie worn over coloured dresses if of distinct colour or light hue. Such jackets require only a very small amount of material, and should have a high collar and some pretty drop edging, even if not trimmed at the edge, the more handsome type of beaded material only requiring the e dging.