Vanitas Vanitatum

Ladies' Mirror, Volume 4, Issue 10, 1 April 1926, Page 15

Vanitas Vanitatum

The most cheerfully disposed person, given to making the most of things, could hardly say we have enjoyed an ideal summer. Of course, the weather might have been worse, but it certainly was not conducive to making a radiant show, or even enabling milady to make full use of her summer frockings when the modes were so attractive, too! Vain regrets, however, arc futile. We must go forth to meet the colder months with a contrite heart and a spirit of optimism. Surely we can

look forward to the enjoyment of wearing some of the very alluring 1 things that arc now being displayed 1 in the big shops? They are truly

attractive, gay yet dignified, and eminently practical. There have been protests against the over-extension of the sports

vogue, but there are definite indications that the tendency has been checked. The mood seems to be to return to feminity, and a wider skirt is the fundamental change, which affords more freedom. Comfortable and practical clothes will be the vogue for the coming season. The jumper dress becomes more attractive on account of the ampler skirt, and there are many details to relieve monotony. The two-piece is dc rigour for future wear as the ensemble suit was in the spring.

fondon (Sails for (Simplicity Winter models as displayed at the recently-opened British Fashion House are on the whole simpler than those shown by the French designers. For outdoor wear one secs models of small frocks in plain and light woollen fabrics of crepc-dc-chine or printed materials. They all have plain bodices and skirts with fulness at the sides or in the front; the fulness at the sides is particularly frequent and obtained by one or two inserted godets, by two boxpleats or gathers. The waistline is moderately high and indicated by a belt; the latter is often in front only. Nearly all sleeves arc short and plain; the bodices are trimmed with round white, plain or plissc collars, in crepc-dc-chine or with ties and bands of the same fabric, tied at the decollete in front or on the shoulder. ONE of the most noticeable features of the changing fashion is the fullness of the skirts, which is either in front or at the sides. There is also, in some cases, fulness all round, but it is obtained by different means. As an instance, the back of the

skirt has shaped flounce or panel, while in front it is widened by boxpleats, plisses or godets. Coats have a decidedly more accentuated flare; in fact, the flare is most important and becomes more exaggerated in the dressier models. The semi-Princess shape has great vogue. Most of the collars to be worn will apparently be smaller and straighter, while some of the coats arc seen with no collar at all, being merely broadened by a plain or fancy band. Sashes of printed crepe arc to be very fashionable, especially for evening wear; while some made of satin or chiffon are pleasing, but they must have no embroidery. There is quite a surprising num-

her of models of the jumper style carried out in stockinette and kasha, which arc suited for afternoon or even semi-evening wear. (3/lie Cjfashion CJea WE have to acknowledge the * * courtesy extended to The Mirror by Messrs. Milne and Clioyce, Ltd., in requesting a reporter to attend their Invitation Fashion Tea, and provide a “writeup” of the display of the firm's autumn and winter modes. Although there is no reciprocity between our respective advertising departments, we can nevertheless heartily congratulate the leading drapery establishment of the Queen City upon its enterprise and circumspection.

The firm certainly presented to its fashionable clientele an exceedingly alluring mannequin parade in the artistic setting so pleasingly staged in the restful Tudor tearoom, which is a recognised social rendezvous of the elite of Auckland. No detail was overlooked to display to the fullest advantage the latest in Fashion’s vogue. A delightful prologue depicted the quaint costumes of many nations, while as a finale a scries of Maori dances were characteristically rendered by six strikingly graceful native girls. The parade of mannequins was in every respect artistic, elegant and successful. There was a bevy of stately young ladies beautifully frocked in the latest creations of leading couturiers of the fashion world. They represented a chic selection of the smartest ensembles of feminine attire in all its gaiety and dignity. It was a veritable pageant of fashion. These Fashion Teas reflect the greatest credit upon those responsible for the displays, and they deserve all the plaudits bestowed upon them by the admiring patrons of "M. & C.”

What Travis S ays — Betwixt Seasons The sportswoman dominates the “betwixt and between” season, for what she wears is always serviceable and is not so susceptible to the vagaries of the mode as are other frockings for move formal and ceremonial occasions. Since the accepted reign of fl on and the final defeat of its hard-lived rival the garconne style, has only just survived for sports wear. Sweaters decidedly refuse to feminize, and attempts towards a compromise have hardly led to greater fcncy than in the lines of collars and scarfs. This is so because sweaters and skirt costumes have still a wide appeal to sportswomen on account of their simple, practical lines. Stripes are now considered the chic style for pull-overs, and the , graduated stripes are most popular. There is also a new idea in the sports skirts, which are given fullness, apparently by inserted trian-

gular flares and fullness concealed through deep box-pleats. Vogue of the Tzvo-Piccc A N Englishwoman’s observations in Paris, coupled with her individual feeling for clothes, naturally leads to her frankly discarding many of the latest Parisicnne modes as impossible for the Homeland or the Overseas Dominions. It would seem, however, that certain points must be remembered when gowns and coats are being chosen for coming wear. The essential points are that the vogue of the two-piece remains paramount, and that skirts, both on dress and coats, must flare. Fullness is demanded round the hem, although the line to the waist is more close-fitting than during last season. This means that the tubefrock is going out; also the threequarter length tunic, worn over a tight underskirt. Another general ' observation is that dresses and coats arc still to be short, and the sleeves long.