A CHRISTMAS HOLIDAY TRIP

Ladies' Mirror, Volume 3, Issue 8, 2 February 1925, Page 37

A CHRISTMAS HOLIDAY TRIP

FROM AUCKLANDTHE TRIALS and JOYS OF A MOTORING HOLIDAY

r T , HE crew having to work late on the eve of departure, the necessary preparations for the tour of the North had to be made on the

Vehicular Ferry’s good ship “Goshawk” bound across the beautiful Waitemata Harbour for Devonport. The first overlooked item was a pump, discovered on board, when a

motor van driver, just before leaving the wharf, pointed out that we had a slack tyre. Our first engineer then received a stir-up from the captain ; the purser took things calmly as it was not in his department. Mr. Second Engineer kindly offered to get one and come over by a later boat. He took great odds as the members of the party were anxious to taste the pleasures of the trip, and would possibly leave him behind. On landing at Devonport we borrowed a pump from a Rugby owner, blew up the slack tyre, then discovered there was a puncture in the spare. After fixing these details, and, of course, spending some time yarning, we finally got away at 11 a.m.—a beautiful clear morning gave us some glorious views of the Gulf and the different islands out to sea, Great Barrier being just visible in the distance. For some ten miles the roads were good, while the next ten good but a little rough, as the grader had been over them lately. The three-mile run on Orewa Beach was very fine. Here we met the first lot of campers, and from this on through Waiwera to Puhoi the choicest camping grounds had been taken up. We reached the pretty settlement of Puhoi at 12.40 p.m. Flere we received the first taste of

the well-known Northern hospitality, being invited to dinner at the hotel as the guest of the Parish Priest, Father Silk. The history of Puhoi is of great interest. This settlement was founded by a party of pioneers from Bohemia, who met very many great difficulties in the early days. Father Silk has ably written a history of Puhoi, published by the N.Z. Tablet Printing and Publishing Co., Dunedin. To those who are interested in the settlement of New Zealand this book is well worth reading and studying. Fortunately we were of a little service to one of the oldest settlers, and also her son, and we were greatly pleased for the opportunity. With many good wishes Puhoi let us away at 4 p.m. for Waipu. The next place of note on the road after a very pretty run is Warkworth. After a short visit to our hosts of the Warkworth Hotel and Mr. and Mrs. Holliday, we pushed on through Dome Valley. The road was Al., but through Wayby Gorge it was pretty bad. (Here our first shot was fired, Mr. 2nd getting a good fat rabbit.) Some places had been washed away by the big flood, temporary bridges and diviations have been made. Being clay land just dry, those who have motored through such conditions can understand the roughness of that part of the trip. On leaving the Gorge we took the Wayby Valley Road for Mangawai, through Te Arai. This meant a saving of

seven miles, and to our delight the going was good, although we had been warned not to go that way. The Wayby Valley is through very rich river bed land. After that one

passes tnrougn some very ureary fern hills. We reached Mangawai a little before 6 p.m. This is a pretty little port, and makes a good view coming down the Te Arai Road. We [Continued overleaf

were now travelling as a non-stop Limited, so pushed on into the Waipu Gorge, passing the noted rich Tara Hill on our left. The scenery at Waipu Gorge is a bit of the best. Here are seen many young kauri trees, from rickers to almost giants, varied bush, and millions of Punga ferns. We were now all getting hungry; passed a beautiful camping ground just before making the beach, so decided to return to this spot and make camp. It was under a great puriri tree, _ with a clear soft running stream twenty yards away. Oh! what a feed! and oh! what a sleep, after having a yarn and a smoke round the camp fire. Everybody was asleep before 10 p.m., and not a break until 5 a.m. No midnight church services for this team; there may have been a chorus in the camp but it would be a chorus of snores. Christmas Day TIP with the lark; wind changed in the night to a breeze from the north. After breakfast had a little shooting, then down to the beach for a swim. On again through the beautiful coastal scenery to the Cove, Waipu, past the cemetery in which were buried the old Nova Scotia pioneers into Waipu Central. Here the captain started to meet some of his old friends of thirty years ago. The reception given to him was in the old Waipu fashion —straight Scotch, and was a source of amusement to the other younger members of the crew. On then past the corner, through the Mill Brook Road to the North River, meeting old friends on the way, and celebrating in the good old fashion. Wending our way over rough narrow tracks through romantic seenenry to the Waipu Caves, the boys were greatly taken with the wonderful shapes of the limestone rocks, and the pretty effects of roses, geraniums and vines growing over them, with clumps of native bush in between. The general wild and yet park-like appearance of this locality makes up for the rough road to be traversed. An attempt was now made to go through the heart of the country, real way-back bush track to Manga--pai. On getting- to within four miles of this, it was found impossible to pass some big slips on the mountain side, with the result of having to turn back and travel about 25 miles to reach Mangapai. The time spent on the mountains and at the Caves left us late in the evening at the North River. The captain called on some old friends who wanted to put the whole team up for the night. This we did not accept as part of the fun of the trip was the camping. Both Mr. and Mrs. J. C. McKay, whom we have termed our Waipu hosts, being good sports, appreciated our desire to stick to the camp, to such an extent that they picked out the best camping ground on their pretty farm for our use. Here, near the river, behind a beautiful clump of totara, we made camp, well sheltered from the north-east gale that was now blowing. After a big feed, all turned in at 9 p.m., to wake on the morning of the 26th with a flooded camp and raining hard. What a breakfast that was—nothing dry to burn. Fortunately the purser had brought a small spirit stove on which we cooked inside the tent, a real good breakfast which had to be eaten standing. Soon the clouds rolled away; got a great roaring fifth-of-November fire going; put up posts with a long line between and soon had a sight of steaming clothes, rugs, etc; made a rough packing and went up to the

homestead of our Waipu hosts, who had looked us up early to see if we were blown or washed away opened out everything to the wind and sun. All used his bathroom to its full capacity. Then a big feed was ready for us, another instance of the proverbial Waipu hospitality. On to the road at 1 p.m. with the chains on ; struck it bad right from the jump until we got on to the main North Road. Even, then we were glad of the chains; at Ruakaka went down to the picnic grounds on the beach; started raining again so pushed on through the Ruakaka Swamp. In places the road was flooded, the boys had some good fun, and got some snaps of the car rushing through the water. On the Mangapai Hills there was some tough going, the mud just getting sticky. Then followed a treat from Oakleigh to Whangarei—miles all metalled. Oakleigh was the first we had seen of the Northern Railway. The weather had cleared; wind round west. We landed at Whangarei a pretty picture of mud. Went on to Kamo to our friend Mr. Wilkinson, who arranged a beautiful camping ground on the property of Mr. Allison. Our Kamo friends provided a big tea for us, consequently after pitching the camp the boys were in tune to take three of the prettiest girls in Kamo to the pictures at Whan garei, the captain spending the evenmg at our friend’s house with convivial company. Supper provided on the return of the boys and girls, then camp and to roost late—-12 p.m. • 27th December A GOOD start on a beautiful morning, fixed up a few matters in Kamo, ran down to Whangarei, then finally off at 11.30 from Kamo. Beautiful scenery through to Hikurangi, where the famous Limestone Castles were seen. Forgot to mention that the boys had a" swim in the Kamo Hot Baths on arrival at camping ground last evening. Then we had a rough time to Towai, it being about the worst road in the North Island. At Towai we had lunch by the roadside, then a good road through some pretty hill and valley scenery to Kawakawa. Here we had a short spell, the Captain again meeting old friends. Then on north over the great turn-table hill to Pakaraka. Now into the rich lands of the Bay of Islands. The boys enraptured over the beautiful rich volcanic land. We pulled up at Ohaewai and got directions for Pahia Bay opposite Russell. The road to Waimate was great, and the beautiful park-like appearance of the country was a treat to sore eyes. Then down a long winding track of about ten miles—rough in places, but good otherwise. Stopped to see the great Horse Shoe Falls on the Waitangi River; would have camped at this romantic spot, but wanted to get on to Kawhia to hire a launch for an early-morning trip to Russell. This we were successful in doing, and made another splendid camp on the Mission Reserve right on the beach. By this time it was after dark, but that does not trouble us, as our trouble light is a great born .giving up. a brilliant ray. This evening we were all very hungry and _ tired, _ so after a big feed turned straight in on good drv camping ground. 28th December TTP at 4.30 a.m.; plenty of fixing up to do; big breakfast, then took launch at 7 a.m. for Russell, leaving the car all ready for a quick start on our return. Spent an hour and a-

half at Russell, went up Flagstaff Hill, and to see the old church, showing the Maori bullet holes. Met a few Auckland boys up for the Regatta to be held next day. Back by launch to Pahia. After a swim, right on to the road again. Had not gone far when we overtook a breakdown with Bishop Averill aboard bound for a Centenary Service at 11 a.m. at Waimate. We took him and two big portmanteaux on board and drifted carefully for ten miles with this heavy load to Waimate ; delivered his Lordship at the church and scurried away for Kaeo —a good road, and made good time over the Kerikeri Plains; then through a beautiful rich valley over the bush hills down into pretty Kaeo. By the roadside we had lunch, then on to Whangaroa, the harbour and surrounding romantic scenery looked at its best, as this was one of the brightest days; had a look round, then on to Mangonui; just looked into here, then back on to the Kaitaia Road, reaching the rich Oruru Valley about 5 p.m. Called on Mr. Garton, who wished us to stay for tea, but we made our excuses and got away with some milk and lemons. He wanted to load us up with cake, but we had plenty in the tucker box, as on top of the stock of Christmas cakes we left Auckland with, our great friend Mr. Wilkinson, of Kamo, had presented us with one. We made a fast run through Peria and Fairburn, reaching Kaitaia at 7.30 p.m. The weather now getting bad we were fortunate in getting a real good possee, after a little hunt, owing to the kindness of Mr. Hester. And so to bed, as Pepys would say. Rained and blew hard in the night. 29th December AFTER breakfast the owner of the property suggested our moving the camp to more shelter, and helping ourselves to the haystack. This we did, and no sooner were we nicely fixed, expecting a day under cover, when the weather cleared up. So we set off to see friends. Had lunch and took some of our friends to Ahipara and on to the famous Parengarenga 90-mile beach. On our return we were treated to a hot roast dinner by our host and hostess, Mr. and Mrs. McCarthy, who arc friends of Miss Yates, a young lady well known to the members of the crew, with a social evening finishing by taking our hosts to our tent; more conviviality ; took him home, and then found a supper ready for ns, so had a late night of it. 30th December C'OR all our late night, we made an early start, after wending our way up to Mr. Hester’s house, finally giving him the usual three cheers that we give on parting with our friends and hosts. Through Victoria Valley with the weather brightening up. Roads a bit muddy in places ; on ’ through the great Maungamouka Bush. This was the day of days for scenery, to the Captain’s mind this bush run of about twenty miles easily beats the noted Motu Bush on. the East Coast; all virgin forest with greater variety than Motu. The boys were in raptures over it. The climb is fairly gradual for about six or seven miles, and the views going down are very extensive over the Hokianga Ranges covered with bush. We dropped down into the Waihou Valley and Rangiahua, going right on for Horeke. Here we saw a wonderful wash-out, thousands of tons of rock and mullock down a ravine in the hills which had slipped, covering the

road many feet and going on right into the swamp. Here we got the heaviest rain of the trip. It was that bad that we had to run the car into shelter and wait. Arrived at the Horeke Hotel late for dinner. We had a good feed, although late, then pushed on through the pretty Utokura Valley and hill, on through beautiful Okauhau, through Ohaewai and to Kaikohe, where our friends, Mr. and Mrs. W. J. Worthington insisted on our having an early tea. Then away to the water falls on the Mangakahia Road in the property of Mr. Wright. There we made a great camp. Had the usual big feed and to bed. 31st December r PHIS day was the worst we -*• struck for travelling, as the heavy rain had made the Mangakahia Road almost impassible in places owing to slips. The road was very narrow, with steep drops into the river. It was well we had chains and a good driver, for where big slips had occurred there was not a foot to come and go on ; to miss it meant a drop of about 100 feet into the river; a very small skid was enough to put us over. At the southern end of the Mangakahia Gorge new formation works are taking place. Here it was one sea of mud, and a pretty picture the car looked on emerging on to the hill country and getting to the store at Puketai, where we met congenial company, both Maori and Pakeha. After a little refreshment we pushed on to Titoki, being now on good metal roads, off came the chains. Here we sent “wires” away with New Year greetings. Then on to Poroti. After leaving here we turned down the side road to the Wairoa Falls. Here we met with disaster, dropping comfortably into a very bad bog hole. To get out we had to lever the front wheels up. Jacks were no good. We packed under the back wheels with big titree, then looked for something to lever the front up. The only things handy were planks out of a bridge. Up they came. With the help of these, and much cussing, we were successful in getting our great car on to dry land. Then, of course, we looked at ourselves ! Oh, what a picture ! Splattered with a sticky, smelly mud. The Wairoa Falls had to pass as read, for time was getting on. Everybody hungry, hot. dirty and tired—just a fit condition for tempers to get ruffled. This was nearly caused by a leaky benzine tin in the front part of the car. Mr. First wanted to get a feed, and take the risk. Our skipper had to assert his authority for only the second time on the trip, the first being early this morning, when Mr. First wanted to go on without chains. The purser appealed for chains, so the command went forth. Chains it was. and the whole crew were thankful before a hundred yards were covered. Fixed the benzine into the tank. On again, entering the beautiful volcanic country of Whatatiri and Maungatapere. Here we pulled up for a late lunch, being well treated at the factory, getting hot water, so saving boiling the billy. On again through more rich, beautiful country, looking from the height of Maungatapere at one of the most extensive scenes yet passed, looking over Whangarei Harbour, the Heads, Hen and Chickens, Otaki, Mangapai to Waipu, and, to the rear, the Rangiahua Ranges. Then on through picturesque Maunu to Whangarei. Filled up the tucker box, and away to

Waipu, covering the ground that we did on the way up, with the difference that the roads were dry, so that we did the journey in half the time, arriving at the old camping ground before 6 p.m. After cleaning up and pitching camp, our North River hosts made us have dinner with them, and we spent a very enjoyable musical evening, making 11 p.m. the New Year, instead of midnight. Everybody well tired; final healths and New Year toasts, and then camp. Snoring well before midnight. Ist January TV"OW glorious weather, real North Auckland summer, the great day at Waipu had arrived. Caledonian Sports from 10 till 5; home for a change of clothes; down to the concert and dance. This was the Captain’s programme. The rest of the crew, after the sports, took their Kamo lady friends home to Kamo. On their return about 1 a.m. they found the Captain dead to the world, snoring in the camp. 2nd January nPHIS morning we indulged in a x good loaf (but not of bread), for we had too many other good things in the tucker box. When the fit seized us we put on our best bib and tucker, and away to join our Waipu host and his friends at a picnic at Ruakaka Beach. After lunch the Captain with our hosts and the member for Marsden sped away to Waipu, where Waipu Bowling Club were playing the World. After a very pleasant afternoon it was found that the World was too good for Waipu, but for all that winners and losers had a real good bowling time.

The rest of the crew, after a lot of swimming- (and eating, said Mr. Purser) went to see the Rookery, where they had to mind their steps so as not to tread on the seagull eggs or young. They then took the good ship down to Waipu, picked up the Captain, and at 5.15 p.m. bade farewell to Waipu, bound for the Wairoa; up through the Braigh Waipu into the lovely Maungatoroto Gorge, then through hilly, picturesque Maungatoroto, Paparoa and Matakohe, over the Kahia Hills to Tokatoka (60 miles since 5.15 p.m.), arriving 8.30 p.m. Then a search for a camping ground, which was finally settled by the local storekeeper offering his paddock and a bucket of water. For the last 15 miles we had kept an eye open for good water. This side seems to be poorly supplied with clear running streams. As soon as the tent was up Mr. Purser and Mr. First turned in without bit or sup. The Captain and Mr. Second had a most enjoyable feed. Then a walk down the wharf on a moonlight night to view the noble Wairoa River, our first sight of which was from the Rahia Hills, where a stretch of about 20 miles of broad river can be seen. 3rd January ANOTHER fine hot morning; broke camp early. After a big breakfast journeyed on to Motetai. From here we telephoned Dargaville. The Postmaster at that place had a wire for us, but could not let us have the news. It had to be sent on to Metetai, via Te Kopuru. This ridiculous piece of red tape lost us an hour. Our friends at Dargaville

were away, so we decided to turn for home via Ruawai. This great stretch of reclaimed land should be shown to people who talk of the poor North. Rich flats as far as the eye can see, easily as good as the famous Hauraki Plains. The paddocks gave one the idea that they were shut up for hay, until a herd of cows’ heads would be seen raised about the grass. Turning on to the Hills again, we retraced our way of yesterday, through Matakohe, Paparoa, to Maungaturoto, where we branched off for Kawaka. We had lunch at a pretty spot by the roadside at Paparoa. From Kaiwaka our route lay through Topuni, Te Liana to Wellsford. This road was in a fearful state, having only just been made possible for cars. From Wellsford then to Wayby Gorge, striking the road taken on the trip up. Made camp at the end of the Gorge Sunday, 4th January, A VERY hot morning; made a late start; called on mine host of the Warkworth Hotel; then on to Puhoi. Went to pay our respects to Father Silk; found a great crowd at the church. What an eye-opener to find so many people in what one passing through would call a little hamlet. The question was: Where do they all come from? Answer: Right up the valleys from the hills, and away back in the bush. Surely Father Silk must be a popular and happy man, with such a big, healthy flock. That may be the cause of the happy twinkle in his eye. Wanting to make Auckland for dinner we pushed on through Silverdale, Takapuna. and Devonport, viewing Auckland in all her summer glory. Sun shining bright on the blue waters of the Gulf, and the many sailing craft, beaches thronged with bathers, then the full view of the beautiful north-

crn city in sight for the last fifteen to twenty miles, gradually getting larger as we came closer, until after crossing the harbour in the Vehicular erry, we were once more in our home town. Looking at the speedometer we found that the car had covered 864 miles on the trip, not a minute lost the whole time with engine or car troubles, and the same air in the tyre tubes that we had taken from Auckland. Certainly she had required some cleaning. We entered various places in various conditions, sometimes bright and clean, and others with a very heavy coating of mud. During the latter part of the trip our mascot, a big Kewpie, was a very much noticed adornment. This was presented to our Mr. First by the Kamo young ladies at the Waipu Caledonian Sports. Just a word before closing regarding the right spirit to make such a trip a success, and that it was with the word huge in front of success: There were no rules set out; all were willing and eager to take their share of the rough. As a result each dropped into the most suitable job. The Captain became 2nd Cook, with Mr .Second Engineer as Ist Cook; Mr. Purser became the Scullery Man, and Mr. First Engineer was the Rouseabout. Four town-tired men returned brown and fit, laughing and happy, with a far better knowledge and the wealth and beauty of what is often wrongfully called the poor roadless North. One more word to motorists going camping: Take a trouble light with you; its a wonderful help when making camp after dark. Draw your car alongside of the camp, put your head to the tent door with the light clipped to the tent. After finishing outside your car put your light inside the door, and there you are with electric light fitted up.