The MIRROR of FASHION

Ladies' Mirror, Volume 3, Issue 4, 1 October 1924, Page 10

The MIRROR of FASHION

SPRING BECKONS US WITH COMPELLING FINGER . . . AND IT BEHOVES US TO DECK OURSELVES GAILY FOR HIS SUNNY FESTIVAL

AVE you ever made a mental review of the silhouettes of fashion down the Ages? If you have, you will doubtless be somewhat bewildered at the anatomical "moods" through which we have flashed; and will probably register a sigh of relief at the apparently simple silhouette of today. But the great occupation of Fashion at present is line, line—and again, line. it is harassing for those of us who are the least bit the victims of ample proportions to be -told with all the finality of a royal proclamation that our "line" must be straight and lender. A stern regime of exercise and diet seems to be the only L', fn-n fhn TO ««,„, pp t ii But for the woman of fashionable proiIS on" If' W<2t ° f r > h %T n Tnr f 1 VT ' • I' LL or ioit?W <T' Sm? I WW wnb fin' t 1 may T dulge her whims as to style and be severely masculine, with the most classical of tailorings; or "cjarconne," with neat, short jacket in one line with the skirt, which is often in contrasting material of check or stripe; or her mood may dictate a tailored frock, with the added charm of chemisettes, collars and cuffs, or the omnipresent scarf. The softer models are generally variations on the popular tunic. The lines of the tunics seem to have been formed by geographical and historical influences. One is straight and severe, like the surtout of the Crusader. Another is of medium length, with a flare in the lower part, borrowed from Persia. Others again seem to hint at Russia and China. TL cl i r i rN- . 1 he bhadow ot the Uirectoire m. „ ,: . . . L . lne directoire gown is casting a shadow Wo the „ea? f uterC , and ask? for

approval; the wheel will apparently come round again full circle. (Some years hence the waistline will doubtless have reached once more, by successive stages, its present location.) This line is hinted at by a yoke, a fold of the material, or a line of trimming. But as yet it is only hinted. Couturiers of the moment arc paying more attention than ever before to the creation of sports models. Sports of all kinds are a recognised feature of everyday life, and even spectators like to be dressed in tune with their surroundings. Tailleur models, though more colourful than those for street wear, and kiltpleated skirts planned for ease of movement, are the most popular styles. The two-piece, skirt and blouse type, is almost invariably of white, and the skirt, is of the wrap-over type, with a wide overlapping section to allow case for walking without the appearance of “slashing” in the skirt. All-pleated skirts are still very much worn, but what is still smarter is a skirt with clusters of pleats inside the panels. A ith this is worn blouse or jumper as fancy may dictate. Many of the beltless blouses in silk and crepe materials have no trimming at all, save a monogram. As an alternative to the two-piece sports model, there are little straight frocks of white flannel, striped silk or crepe, generally belted with a narrow line of bright green or red or orange suede, the colour to tone with the printed scarf, without which, at present, no sports costume is considered complete. And for the ‘‘Apres Midi” Afternoon models still favour the “en-

semhle,” or coat and dress, designed to he worn together. Generally the two pieces are of the same material, and show merely similarity of trimming; hut sometimes the coat is of one material and the dress of another, and when this is the case a sense of unity is achieved by lining the coat with the dress material, and often showing facings and pockets in the same colourings. This is especially the case with the combination of print and plain. Evening gowns and wraps are much betrimmed with ostrich feather. The wraps have high collars and wide hands of the feather; and the gowns have deep hems, sometimes on the bias, of long pleu reuse feathers. Hats this summer are going to he trimmed with ostrich plumes and ruches. “Fine feathers” on wide crin bats, with parasol to match, should make tine birds this summer. The imperative need with an evening gown nowadays is a scarf or shawl. Gowns themselves are not trimmed much, except, where bordered with ostrich, hut a very novel and entirely new model of Chanel's is of chiffon with incrustations of coloured chiffon and wing draperies hanging from the shoulders at the back, giving it the effect of a gorgeous butterfly with wings folded. The effect is dazzling when the wings are extended. There are gowns of lace in black, black and white and cream; straight dance frocks with deep ostrich hems; sheathlike gowns of all shades of rose and red; and straight line gowns with flared wing draperies from shoulder and waist. With so much originality in design, the problem is to choose!