C—6

Thanks to various tracks which have been made to a number of points of interest by the Public Works Department, not only days but weeks may be spent in a fresh excursion each day. For instance, the Callery Gorge —one of the most magnificent canyons in the Southern Alps—can be explored for a distance of six miles. Hende's Track, on the north-eastern side of the valley, in parts above the Franz Josef and in other parts close to the ice, which ends at Roberts's Point, is an easy but wonderful walk, the track passing over foot-bridges and cunningly-devised galleries. En route, the incoming of the new vegetation can be observed as already described. At one point—Rope Creek —the Baird Range can be ascended up to the " Water-holes," where a camp can be made, and in due season a wealth of alpine flowers admired. For the more adventurous from this point, under the care of a guide, Thelma Peak can be climbed, whence a glorious view is obtained of the whole basin of the snowfields feeding the trunk of the glacier (fig. 8), together with the fine glaciers and extensive snowfield of the Gallery. On the south-western side of the Franz Josef a track leads up to the lower spurs of the Fritz Range via Lady Westland's Lookout on to Aleck's Knob, where is the natural flower-garden so greatly admired Dr. A. W. Hill, C.M.G., F.R.S., of Kew, and whence is a very fine view of the great ice-fall, the snowfields beyond up to the Divide, the Baird Range, the vast forest of the Wcstland Plain, and the Tasman Sea. There are two huts —that of Cape Defiance and the Alma —available for alpine excursionists, or they make in themselves an admirable objective. These are easily reached with the assistance of a guide by any ordinary good walker. The ascent of Mount Moltke—a fairly easy climb—is made from the first-named hut by means of a graded track leading to the snowfields. The Fox Glacier is less developed than the Franz Josef from the tourists' point of view, but such development by means of tracks and huts will be a matter of no long time. Even now, its attractions for the average walker are great. From the hostel, a track —soon to be available for motors —leads through lovely forest to a bridge over the Fox not far from the terminal face of the ice, whence, proceeding round that wonderful roche montanne, the Cone Rock, which abuts on the terminal face of the glacier, the clear ice is readily gained. As for Cone Rock itself, a track is being made to its summit, whence is to be gained a delightful view of the head of the great ice-river (fig. 9). Sam's Knob and Craig's Peak are by no means beyond the powers of an average climber, and those who gain their summit will be amply rewarded by a wide view of alpine scenery equal to anything in the Southern Alps. On Chancellor Ridge, some five miles up the Fox Glacier (fig. 9) a tourist hut is nearing completion, which is destined to play the same notable part for climbers as the Defiance and Alma huts now do for those of the Franz Josef. Where bare of snow in summer the natural alpine gardens of Chancellor Ridge are not to be excelled. Apart from glacial and alpine excursions, there is much to interest the visitor who is willing to do some walking. The paths to the terminal faces of both glaciers lead, at a most easy grade, through exquisite ever-changing forest scenes. For those willing to venture farther afield, the walk by the Main South Road of some eighteen miles from the Franz Josef Hostel to that of the Fox, or vice versa, is perhaps the finest forest-walk (figs. 4, 5) in New Zealand, and from time to time the great mountains of the Divide glorify the horizon as viewed through the greenery where there are gaps in the otherwise dense mass of forest. From the Fox Hostel, Lake Matheson is an easy distance, and there one of those scenes almost peculiar to Westland is to hand, for in its dark, peaty waters are reflected the vast snowfields and the ice-capped giants with Cook and Tasman as their monarchs (fig. 11). Longer trips than these are available, including those to the coast —Gillespie's Beach from the Fox, and Okarito from the Franz Josef, with its famous lagoon scenery. From both these parts of the shore-line a panorama of the region of snow and ice unfolds itself in all its glory. The Bird-life. No account of a scenic reserve can be considered complete without some reference to its bird-life. In what follows we have not relied upon our personal knowledge, but have the good fortune to place, side by side, an estimate of the relative abundance of most of the land-birds as it was some thirty years ago and at the present time, thanks to information generously supplied by Messrs. W. Wilson, formerly District Surveyor for Westland, and Peter Graham, who has known South Westland all his life. Though, recently, it has been frequently asserted that native birds are on the increase in New Zealand generally, we are indeed sorry to say that—as is seen below—this is far from being the case in the area dealt with bv us. In what follows the popular name of each bird is alone given—such names being far better known by the general public and more definite than are those of plants, and to each name is appended first Mr. Wilson's estimate of the relative abundance of the bird in his time, and then Mr. Graham's estimate of to-day. It will be seen, however, that thirty years ago the decline in the number of the birds was evident enough, as .shown by the fact that the kiwi and the ground-parrot (kakapo)—once the particular pride of Westland —had become quite scarce. (1) Orange-wattled crow-—rare; never seen now. (2) Ground-lark —fairly common; fairly common. (3) South Island thrush —rare ; never seen now. (4) Saddle-back —rare ; never seen now. (5) Brown-creeper —not seen by either observer. (6) Canary, or yellow-head —very common ; never seen now. (7) Grey warbler —very common; seen occasionally. (8) South Island robin —seen occasionally ; never seen now. (9) South Island tit (yellow-breasted tit) —not in Wilson's list; fairly common. (10) Pied fantail —very common; fairly common. (11) Black fantail—very common; fairly common. (12) Tui —very common; common. (13) Fernbird —seen occasionally; fairly common on the road to Okarito, (14) Rifleman —common ; seen occasionally. (15) Rock-wren—

13