R.—2

14

ing the time of all previous records by several hours, the object of the trip being to definitely locate a pass, crossed the summer before by Mr. Dennistoun, which connects the head waters of the Rangitata on the eastern with that of the Wataroa and Perth Valley on the western side of the divide. Proceeding north for twenty miles by the main road, we reached Wataroa. Here we secured the services of Mr. Gunn, and started for the head of the river. A very interesting day was spent at the head of the valley taking observations and fixing Mr. Dennistoun's new pass. The party then returned to the Hermitage by way of the Sealey Saddle on to the Godley Glacier, and thence by the Classen, crossing the head neve of the Murchison Glacier, back to the Tasman Valley and Malte Brun Hut, then on to the Hermitage, the return journey occupying three days. This is the first time this expedition has been made, and affords a most interesting round trip. " A considerable number of climbing expeditions were also undertaken during the season, and some new and interesting ascents were made. Mr. Claude McDonald, New South Wales, a member of the English Alpine Club, accompanied by Guide Murphy and myself, made the first complete traverse of Mount Sealey (8,631 ft. high), Malte Brun (10,421 ft.), and first ascent of Coronet Peak (9,263 ft.). He also made, during February, two attempts on Mount Cook (12,349 ft.) from the Hooker Glacier; both, unfortunately, resulted, in failures through bad weather. On the occasion of the last attempt we were forced to turn back within 800 ft. of the summit, making our descent by the Lindo Glacier and grand plateau to the Ball Hutt. On the 9th February Dr. Vollman, of Peru, a member of the German and Swiss Alpine Clubs, with Guide Thomson, made the ascent of the Nun's Veil (8,975 ft.), securing some excellent.photographs. Several day's later Dr. Vollmann, Dr. Teichmann, A. Graham, and myself were successful in making the first ascent on Mount Green (9,305 ft.) and Mount Walter (9,507 ft.), situated on the divide at the head of the Tasman Glacier. On the 4th March Mr. Earle, England, a member of the English Alpine Club, with J. Clark, A. Graham of the Geological Survey, and myself, made the ascent of Mount Cook (12,349 ft.) by a new route from the Hooker Glacier, climbing by a rib of rock on the western face of the mountain, directly under the main summit; descending by the north-west arete to Green's Saddle, and thence by the narrow couloir down to the Hooker Glacier back to our bivouac, the trip occupying fifteen hours and a half. For the purpose of securing photographs, and taking some glacial observations for the Geological Survey, J. Clark and A. Graham, accompanied by Mr. Earle, were crossing the divide at the head of the Mueller, and kindly invited Captain Head, of England, with Guides Thomson and myself, to join them. Accordingly, on the Bth March the party crossed by a high col (8,500 ft.) between Mount Burns and Dwarf Peak, making a new pass connecting the Mueller Glacier on the east with that of the McKerrow and Douglas Glaciers on the western slopes of the divide. This is a magnificent trip, affording a wonderful view of the immense nh't and icefalls of the Douglas Glacier, which descends from the western face of Mount Sefton, forming into huge serac which avalanche over high rock precipices of 2,000 ft. on to the reconstructed glaciers below with continued and incessant roar. While in the Douglas Valley I fortunately found a natural rock-shelter which will make a safe and comfortable camp in any weather. This knowledge will be most useful when arranging trips to this valley in the future. On the 18th March Mr. Earle and myself made the ascent and traverse of a hitherto unclimbed and unnamed peak (9,731 ft.) immediately to the south of Mount Malte Brun and north of Mount Chudleigh, on the Malte Brun Range. Mr. Earle, using a first-climber's privilege, has named the peak ' Aiguillas Rouge' (Red Peak). It affords most interesting and enjoyable climbing over steep but very good rock, giving some fine examples of rock scrambling. It is within easy reach of Malte Brun Hut, " The most energetic lady to visit Mount Cook, and who holds the record among lady alpinists for ascents and alpine-pass work, is Mrs. Lindon, of Geelong. Accompanied by Mr. Lindon and myself, she crossed Graham's Saddle (8,800 ft.) from Malter Brun Hut to Waiho Gorge (Franz Josef Glacier) in eighteen hours and a half, returning down the coast to Karangarua and back to the Hermitage by Copland Pass. This is the first time Graham's Saddle has been attempted by a lady. Mrs: Lindon has the well-deserved distinction of being the first to cross the divide by this route. Mr. and Mrs. Lindon also made the ascent of the Nun's Veil (8,975 ft.). "It is very pleasing to note the growing interest in alpine expeditions on the West Coast, several parties having crossed to the Hermitage by the Copland Pass and Graham's Saddle during the season. " The accommodation at the huts in the Tasman Valley is becoming more and more taxed each year. It will be necessary in the near future to enlarge these huts to supply the extra accommodation needed for this trip. " This season has been a very busy and satisfactory one, both for the increase in returns and also for the extra number of interesting high ascents which have been made." Lake Wakatipu. The traffic to Lake Wakatipu and adjacent districts goes on increasing year by year, and was again heavy during the past summer, accommodation at Queenstown being very difficult to procure during the height of the season. , The park continues to prove a source of great pleasure and attraction to visitors and residents alike. During the year a rustic bridge has been built across the lagoon, replacing a structure that was much decayed. Paradise and grey ducks have also been liberated in the grounds, and are a source of great interest, and also attract many of their species (wild) to the lagoon. The grounds generally have been steadily improved, and are being maintained in good order. The