8.—5

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fancy stitches and drawn-thread work for decorative purposes; she is taught all kinds of tucking, pleating, kilting, and ruching in the most delicate and varied materials; she learns to make buttonholes, loops, to case bones, to braid, to embroider, to machine and stitch in intricate ways, to make sections of garments in order to practise difficult processes— i.e., collars, cuffs, parts of skirts. To each exercise the scholar attaches a label explaining the process performed. In one school a dossier of the best specimens done by different members of the class is kept. A record of the high standard of skill and very various exercises is preserved, and a student is much encouraged when one of her exercises is preserved in the dossier of the class. The application of these exercises is made to practical dressmaking afterwards. (2.) Measuring, cutting-out, and fitting: Part of the first year's course is to learn to take measurements, and to draw to scale and measure; afterwards to cut out and fit from these measurements. One of the first exercises in this branch of work is that a girl is taught to make a tight-fitting bodice and sleeve and skirt. In the second and third year students model in leno on half-size or full-size models or on customers. Models of arms are used for sleeves. The teaching to measure and cut out from measurements is essential to this latter system, because accuracy and the position and directions of seams is thus learned. Very little work is done on small models; nearly all is for actual people, and the full-sized models are padded to represent the figure of the customer. From the outset the student cuts out and fits everything she makes. (3.) The ability to design, copy, adapt, and create: Every pupil makes drawings of her work. While she is learning to draw to scale and measure, she makes drawings of her plans with explanatory notes; she is taught to sketch the dresses in the workroom. She goes, note-book in hand, to the dressmaking establishments to sketch the models shown there or in shop-windows. She learns to sketch a design for a costume for a customer. A third-year student is expected to design a costume and execute a part in various-coloured lenos, showing the scheme of colour, style, and trimming; a maker of lingerie designs-original models and garniture; an embroiderer designs and often paints her own drawings for execution—she is taught to see subjects for embroidery in tapestries, carving, and friezes—she invents her stitches and decorations for trimmings; the artificial-florist reproduces faithfully and minutely real flowers, and invents plumes et choses de fantaisie which, are a necessary adjunct to her trade; the milliner creates new modes. Customers are encouraged to bring old garments to be remade and adapted; and any work that has not been sold is unpicked and made to suit the new fashions of the year. (b.) The Execution of an Entire New Piece of Work. —From the moment a girl enters the school this principle is put into practice. The student cuts out and completes everything, whether it is an exercise or a costume. An interesting instance was seen in a piece of work near completion of a third-year student. A ball-dress of white lace for a customer was being made. ' The student, under the teacher's care, had designed, cut, and fitted the dress, and was engaged in completing a beautiful piece of embroidery which she had herself designed. In this way thorough craftswomen and artists are made. All this was having an effect on the students' bearing—there was a zest and eagerness in the way they were working, and the work appeared to reach a remarkably high level of excellence. Attention is particularly directed to the importance attached to drawing to scale, measuring, and freehand sketching. The Art and Science Examinations of the Board of Education, South Kensington, and the Technological Examinations of the City and Guilds of London Institute, were conducted as usual by the Department. The results, which are given on page 7, may be summarised as follows: Of 583 candidates who sat for the Art and Science Examinations 372 passed; 19 students' works were sent Home for examination in connection with art certificates, and of these 7 were accepted by the examiners. One hundred and ninety-eight candidates sat for the examinations of the Institute, of whom 165 passed, a bronze medal being gained by a Thames student. At the Institute's examinations for teachers in cookery and woodwork, 31 teachers passed in cookery and 50 in woodwork. Examinations were held at fifteen centres. M. H. Browne, E. C. Isaac, Inspectors of Technical Instruction. The Inspector-General of Schools, Wellington.

No. 3. MANUAL AND TECHNICAL INSTRUCTION IN THE SEVERAL EDUCATION DISTRICTS.

AUCKLAND. Extract from the Report op the Education Board. Manual and Technical Instruction. —There has been an enormous development and extension of classes during the year. Manual-training schools have been established at the Thames and at Whangarei, the residents having responded most liberally to the appeal for local voluntary contributions thereto. A grant of £4,000 has been obtained towards building a technical college for Auckland, and it is hoped that suitable accommodation may be provided at no distant date. The Board has engaged a special teacher of agriculture, whose duty it will be to instruct the teachers and to organize a plan of providing instruction throughout the district.