THE GARDEN

Waipukurau Press, Volume XXII, Issue 222, 10 December 1926, Page 3

THE GARDEN

WEEK’S WORK. FLOWER GARDEN. Fill in any vacancies in the beds or borders. Salvia Bon lire can be planted now for late- summer flowering. Portulacca seed sown now will soon prodwc flowering plants. This plant needs a warm, dry dry position in full sun. Dahlia planting can still, be done. The cold and wet season has checked a lot of planting work, but Dahlias put out now will be quite in time for the autumn. Chrysanthemums can be planted out, but the planting should not be delayed any longer than possible. Certainly the weather lias been such that those planted now will probably not lie far behind, the earlier ones. Asters can he planted. These plants require a good rich soil to do well. If there was any sign of “wilt” disease last season do not plant in the same position. . The only sure preventive for “wilt” seems to he sowing where the plants are to grow, and the climiation of transplant lag. Seed sown now will produce plants that will flower during early autumn. Dahlia cuttings can be inserted, and will make quite- nice useful plants; in fact, these late propagated plants often give the best results, as early planted Dahlias are inclined to get “hard” du ting the hot- weather, and do not produce the best flowers. Spring and early flowering shrubs should, he pruned, as they go out of bloom. Azaleas and Rhododendrons as they go cut of flower should have the old. flower heads cut to prevent seed pods forming. Border Carnations should be disbudded. As u rule the Carnation producesfar more buds than it can develop properly, and it is a useless drain on the plant’s resources to have to develop buds that are of no value. Perpetual flowering Carnations from cutting' struck during July and subsequent months will need “stopping” wh -n they are. about six inches high, and again when they arc a foot high. Perpetual flowering Carnations of last season’s planting that have flowercd and are ‘Meggy,” can be cut back. Do not cut too “hard.” At the same time, if the plants *arc healthy, they will stand fairly hard cutting back. Verbenas, Phlox, Petunias, that arc bedded out, should be pegged down as soon as they commence to run. It prevents the plants twisting about with the wind and getting broken. Many herbaceous plants will need staking, and this should bn attended to at once. Donor wait until the plants are in filower or the winds have blown them out of simps. It pays to cut out some of the weaker shoots of many herbaceous plants, such as Delphiniums, Helianthus, Phlox, Michaelmas Daisies. It makes the “clumps” more easy to stake or sup? port, and increases the. size of the blooms that are left. VEGETABLE PLOT. Earth up Potatoes, and where the earlier* planted ones are showing signs of disease, it is better to commence to lift them. Sow Runner and Dwarf Beans to suit requirements. Haricot Beans for harvesting for winter use can bo sown now. Make a planting of Celery where ground is ready, and if later plantings are to be made the trenches should be prepared at once. Plant Kumaras. These require a warm, sunny position, and a well pulverised soil. The sets should be well rooted before planting, and if they are not showing some fresh white rootlets, lay them, into some light sandy soil for a. few days. Thin out crops of Carrots, Turnips, Parsnips, as soon as large enough to handle. To allow these to grow' until their roots are “matted” is a mistake, and is often the cause of forked and illshapen roots. Bow Lettuce and Radish for saladings. A small sowing on a specially prepared jiecc of ground is the best way to manage these. Tomato plants should be tied up as they commence to grow; iif there is any sign of caterpillars or cutworms spray with arsenate of load. Further plantings can be made. Make a. sowing of Sweet Corn; choose a warm, rich piece of soil, and do not sow thickly. This crop does not last in condition r long, and small sowings every week or ten days are necessary to keep up a supply.