HOME GARDEN

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 86, Issue 66, 19 March 1942, Page 6

HOME GARDEN

(By •

“Carnatio.")

WORK FOR THE WEEK HOME-MADE I'ERTILISER. Owing to the shortage of artificial fertiliser gardeners are advised to make their own fertiliser by using up organic waste material in making compost. The importance of every gard.ener preparing a compost is great as the supply of "fertiliser is likely to become more acute. Compost is a builder of fertility, and autumn supplies material for making compost. Compost adds life to the soil, for it brings its own bacteria and is immediately ready to start feeding the crop. Its humus-contents give rootlets easy access to the fertility. Lack of humus and the application of artificial fertilisers may even be a factor in the occurence of plant disease, of which no small number are now present in this coun .ry. Soil erosion, too, is one of the most serious consequences following the Destruction of humus. Compos m/;. The process known as composting is based on ir.e fact that if vegetable matter, soil, water and air are brought together and provided with a “starter,” a fermentation or digestion takes place. Lime is necessary to neutralise the acids whim, are formed 1 This action converts the material to humus, a substance essential for maintaining the fertility of all soils. Material Used. Leaves, grass cuttings, sods, lawnmowings, pea, bean, cr potato tops outer leaves or tops of vegetables, hedge clippings, weeds, faded flowers, potato peelings and kitchen refuse—in short, any plant refuse, green or otherwise, may be used for manurial purposes. Autumn leaves, because of their Jayness, tend to decompose slowly, and should be mixed with sappy material or even dealt witn m a separate heap. Decomposition of very fij.(;us matter, such as cabbage stumps and potato haulms, will be hastened if it is chopped into short lengths and broken up. If the composting is properly dore perennial roots, such as couch grass and the seeds of annual weeds will be destroyed by the combination of heat, moisture, and. active fermentation. Value of Compost. The amount of nitrogen in wellmade compost may be equal to that in farmyard manure, and the potasn and phosphate content may be even higher, li is a valuable manure lor all crops, and should be buried not more than three to four incnes deep. If lightly hoed in, it is an excellent mulch cr top-dressing. How to Make a Compost Heap. A useful compost heap may be made 4 to 7ft. wide, 3 to sft. high, and of any convenient length according to the amount of material likely to be available. The turf and soil are removed from the site (preferably a spot shaded from the full heat of the sun) to a depth of 1 foot and retained on one side. Layers of materials are then put in as follows: First layer of vegetable refuse (the more mixed the better), about. 4 to 6 inches thick. Should it be dry and stemmy, moisten it slightly and tramp it well (the more broken the better). If green and sappy, lay it loosely. Second layer of anima! manure, which is the best of all, half to one inch thick; if animal manure is not obtanable, use a sprinkling of one of the proprietary chemicals sold for this purpose by most horticultural dealers. If animal manure has been used, a sprinkling of lime should be given after each 4 to 6-inch layer of refuse, but it is best not to apply the lime directly on the anima] manure, and a layer of refuse or soil should be left between them. If one of the proprietary compost makers is used, this will probably contain sufficient lime. Wood ashes or bonfire ashes may be used in place of hme. and any kind of liquid manure may take the place of animal manure Third layer is of soil, 1 to 1 inch thick. In summer, or with dry materials, more should be used; in winter, or with sappy stuff, less is necessary. If the soil is loose in texture it should be more generously applied than soil of a stiff or sticky nature. If available, a little old compost from an earlier heap should be mixed with the soil. These layers should he repeated until the required height is reached, and the whole heap is then covered with a coating of soil 1 to 2 inches thick. _ In many gardens sufficient materials will probably not be available to build the heap in one operation. in which case it may be built gradually, but after about two weeks in summer and six in winter it should be finished off. Turning the Heap. In a lew days, according to the material and weather conditions, heal will be generated, or at least the heap will become warm. If it does not, no harm is done, but it will be longer before the material is ready lor use. A heap which has become very hot may be turned over after three to jix weeks, when it has begun to cool down. Cooler heaps should be left six to twelve weeks before turning. Turning should begin from one end, mixing the layers, and the original outside of the heap should be thrown inside. After a further period, which may vary from three weeks to six months, the whole heap should be uniformly dark in colour, earthy in texture, and all the material compeltely rotted. It is then ready for use. (I am indebted to Mr. Talbot, of the Agricultural Department, for the above article).