WISDOM FOR WOMENKIND

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume LXXXII, Issue 19367, 25 July 1925, Page 10

WISDOM FOR WOMENKIND

A RIOT OF RIBBONS (All Rights Reserved). (By Yvonne Rodicr) Gohl, silver, and all the elusive hues of the rainbow, the sunset and the dawn; of bird's plumage and of flowers. It is a riot of ribbons. Ribbons of infinite narrowness to coil into the flowers whose colours they borrjw. Ribbons wide enough to swathe into Gainsborough sashes; or to stitch together into a gown of exquisite daintiness or of regal allure. Ribbons t) fashion sonsie little hats that need no other adornment save the picot edge that makes them at once chic and decorative. Ribbons that bring instant visualisation of delectable cushions for my lady’s boudoir. Ribbons that suggest a hundred themes of beauty, distinction, and feinine charm. The Ribbon Frock A famous artist's model made herself an all-ribbon dress that evoked little gasps of admiration when it made its lirsi appearance in a well-known studio. Il had m long, mediaeval bodice and a long, rather full skirt—faithful to the type its wearer had made her own. And J was fashioned entirely of lengths of ■ "Id gold satin ribbon alternating with ! lustrous black, the strips sewn together I with ‘‘Uaggot” stitchory. There was | a girdle, too. of closely plaited, narrow i ribbons in the same shades; The girdle I hail very long ends, one finished with an old gold flower, the other with a i black. Boudoir Caps | Then the, most fascinating boudoir j (iips owe their charm to ribbons in exiquisitc pastel shades; the lilac, the blue, Ihe pale amber, the elusive rose of a | summer dawn; allied to strips of beani tifnl lace, and adorned with ribbon ! jvosics. To complete the theme there i is the dressing-jticket en suite, made ' so simply because the ribbon is so

[beautiful in itself that it demands no elaborate treatment. Evening Gowns On the most recherche evening gowns that leave the ateliers, the ribbon sashbow and tmin is conspicuously distinguished. Alost often two ribbons are used; one as a lining in a delicately contrasting hue. Ribbon likewise plays its part in the new “evening Sports clothes” innovation. That is to say. the evening cfcsaquin worn over a slim skirt. One of our foremost modistes recently displayed a lovely model on these lines. The skirt was of oyster grey satin, and the casaquin composed of alternate strips of oyster grey and periwinkle blue satin ribbon, with ta tiny stripe of gold ribbon in between. Handbags Ruched ribbon opera bags are very, very “spensy” things to buy, but clever fingers can fashion them at homo at a tithe of the cost: bin item to ibe considered when it is decreed that jour theatre bag must match the elusive [shade of each individual gown. Some of the most’fascinating nightie Idases, too, are made of narrow ruched jribbon in exquisite shot effects to emiphasisc the main colour themes of my lady’s sleeping apartment. SECRETS OF THE COUTURIERS

Little touches make all the difference between a home-made garment and one produced by a professional dressmaker. It is worth while, therefore, to know some of the professional’s methods. In the first place, the couturicre takes infinite pains in folding the material for cutting absolutely thread-straight. Let the centre thread be out, if only by , a si.xteenth of an inch, and the finished garment cannot “hang” as it should |do. If a paper pattern is used, it [must be pinned on very exactly, and .with plenty of pins. The cutting should not be done round the pattern jitself, but the latter should be. traced out first, either with tracing wheel or [tailor’s chalk, then cut out. in smooth, [even cuts, with really sharp scissors. Hacking (always tells its sorry talc in the finished article. I have no use for the woman who is prouß of the fact that she never taeks. Liberal tacking—tacking everywhere—is another of the professional dressmaker’s secrets. Ere she puts any scams together, she runs a tack, absolutely thread-straight, down the exact centre front and back of the. garment. These two seemingly useless tacks guide her in building a symmetrical balanced garment. She takes her measure from them to left and right. Then all possible scams are tacked, on the wrong side, of course, ready for trying on and fitting.

! No French cout.uriere would drdam of j adjusting the length of a garment at [the hem; she always does it at the shoulder. (Incidentally, if you want a well-made frock, choose a pattern with shoulder seams). Lift the garment from the shoulders and pin it firmly in position. Take your time over this job, for the hang of the whole frock depends on the exact fit of the shoulder seams. Then adjust the sides, making the distances even on the left and right sides from centre [tack.

On no accolunt scoop out neck or armholes at this stage, but trace them out with tailor's chtilk or tacking thread. The actual scooping should never be done until you are ready to bind or turn in the neck and put in the sleeves (if any), for the material is very much “on the cross” in these iplaces and is bound to pull out in the handling. When dressmaking, an iron should be kept constantly in action, for bill seams need pressing, with a damp cloth be tween iron ami material, before hems can be turned up or facings put in posi tion. All turnings should be finished off I very neatly. Firm materials, like cloth j and gabardine, may be snipped; medium weight materials should be oversewn, while the more fraying fabrics —spun silk, satin mousline, etc.—should have the ends of the turnings turned in again (to face the wrong side of the material) and stitched down.

In fitting a sleeve, never gather any super-fulness at the top, but push, the sleeve up under the shoulder until you have an easy fit.

If the garment is not to look homemade, h‘‘ms, bindings and facings must be neatly done by hand. Al argtarot H. Jerome.

NEW WAYS WITH COLOURED BAFFIA Now that raffia is dyed in such wonderful colours and can be obtained so cheaply, it is time to find fresh ways for using it in home decoration. For instance, have you ever thought of adorning a plain rush mat with flat crocEfeted circles of raffia, in bright blue, purple, orange, and black? Altike these circles of varing anything from two to ten inches across, using a steel crichet hook-—size 00. When you have fashioned enough to suit your taste, scatter them haphazardly over the mat, and stitch them on round the edges with a large ruj needle. If you do not care for this effect, you can make a bordering of the circles, with excellent results. These raffia-trimmed rush mats are ideal for use with the suites of painted peasant furniture now’ so much in vogue. Window curtains may be trimmed in the same way. and thus brought into lino with the floor. Bolton sheeting, either natural, or dyed ft suitable colour, is the best material to use, and chair cushions to match will add a further finishing touch. Rosamund Aftirtin.

WHAT THE PEN REVEALS GUIDES TO CHARACTER (By Afavis Clare) Evon the most expert graphologist [can be deceived; but it is possible to .make a shrewd guess at the outstanding characteristics of most people when once you know how to interpret their handwriting. If you intend to amuse yourself in this .direction, remember first of all that a signature is the most potent “give-away.” The address on an envelope isn’t so good: for most people write, that rather more carefully than the contents of the letter inside. Main Characteristics. All writing that slopes upwards shows ambition. As a general rule, such a writer will “make good.” Writing that slopes down, from the left to the right side of the page, indicates despondency and depression. Generally speaking, such a type will not do well, .for she lacks the optimism that is the backbone of workaday courage. Looking always on the black side of everything, she takes it for granted that she is bound to flail; honce she usually does fail. It is a proven fact that once a person of this type makes up her mind to win through, the effect is.very soon apparent in her handwriting. It becomes more determined; takes a, more upward slant. Tn the main, large handwriting shows a broad-minded nature, and small writing a. certain narrowness; though this rule hh.s its notable exceptions, like all rules in this world. But in the case of average people, is is a pretty safe guide. Various Types Very small handwriting indicates uncharitableness, sometimes to the point of meanness or cruelty. Broad and very rounded hand-writing reveals a love of comfort and luxury. The more rounded the style the more luxury-lov-ing the writer,'and very probably she has a big streak of laziness. Writing which is pointed at the bottom, of the “m’s” bnd “n’s” nearly always shows logic and insight. Such a writer is usually an excellent, judge of character. It would be difficult to cheat or deceive her. Exaggeratedly thick and rounded writing does not indicate a nice temperament. »at all! Upright writing shows initiative and decision; but is more self-contained and self-centred than that of a person who writes a slanting style. Nicely curved letters indicate musical, literary or (artistic ability. Illegible writing shows a hasty and sometimes slovenly mind, impulsiveness and impatience. Here again is an exception to the rule; that of the people who have to do a "reat deal of writing bnd whose style naturally suffers. Angular letters reveal a critical spirit. Dashing, openwriting should inspire confidence in the energetic, quick, good-natured char actor it reveals; ta character always willing to help others. COOKERY CORNER Sponge Buns Sift a quarter of a pound of flour into a basin; make a hole in the centre nod place in it one teaspoonful of baking powder, one ounce of butt one be’afcr. egg. two gills of milk, one ounce of powdered sugar, one saltspoonful rf

salt, and two ounces of raisins. Knead well for ton minutes. Divide the paste into six equal parts, land round on h piece in cake form. Arrange on a buttered pastry pan and bake in the oven for twenty minutes. Walnut Cake Beat half a pound of butter to a cream, add half a pound of castor sugar | then a quarter-pound of flour mi.\ d with two teaspoonsful of baking po»v!dcr. Mix thoroughly, add hUlf-p®u.id of chopped, skinned walnuts, a tea* (spoonful of flavouring (lemon, almond lor vanilla) and four eggs, well beat. n. 'Bake in a quick oven. When <•.<•>! cover with icing, land drop a few halfwalnuts on the top. I If the- icing, sugar is mixed with, a little milk instead of water, it will ;>e much richer in appearance, and mi.ee palatable.