THE LADIES’ COLUMN

Waipawa Mail, Volume XIII, Issue 2499, 30 August 1890, Page 7 (Supplement)

THE LADIES’ COLUMN

By Viva.

NOTES ON DRESS.

The Australian winter has now begun and we are now finding the need of wraps. For young women, short jackets, fur-trimmed, are the moat popular wear. Triple capes are Sometimes seen, but these ore only suitable to willowy figures. Long wrapß take the place of file skirt-length lace mantles, so popular in the summer. Some long cloaks, recently on view, seemed the acme of luxury and comfoj-t. They were for evening wear, in white or heliotrope doth, lightly trimmed with fancy passementene, and lined throughout with the silk*' white hair of the Thibet goat, the hair turned over, and formed an immense collar. This white fur, which is most fashionable for trimming, also goes by the name of Angora. The long *ed cloth cloaks, “pinked” all round, with Small yokes and very ambitious collars of black velvet, and with two capes reaching to the elbows, are very picturesque in appearance, and ate intended for travelling or country driving. A long tan cloth cloak, in circular form, but tied into the waist at. the bask, was edged all round with a frill of “ pinked ” cloth, carried ftp the front in a cascade, and had a high brown Velvet collar, trimmed with beaver. The cloth Was gathered to a velvet yoke above the flhouldeis in a quaint but becoming way. A most dainty sortie de bal was in white silk, “ crinkled ’’ in the same style as tho j>etticoats ; before mentioned, profusely trimmed with gold j and white passementerie and tinted lace. The j lace hood was edged with narrow sable, which j was next the face when it was worn over the j head ; the sleeves were large ami much raised to the top. Tne bonnets of the day still continue to be Very small, and are by no means a frame for the face. A writer in an English journal tells a story of an old lady, who wanted a new cap for a party, and who borrowed her daughter’s last bonnet. “It made a charming cap,” she remarked, “ and was just what I wanted.” establishment of Mr. S. Brisk, at the corner of Russell and Bourke streets, Some Parisian model bonnets on view are very tiny. A pretty bonnet has a jetted crown, made on wires, and is simply trimmed with a few bows of blue velvet and a gay coloured bird's plume. Black and terracotta are artistically combkxed in another bonnet. This was of terra cotta-coloured velvet, made into a slightly projecting brim, showing a fold of black feather-trimming beneath. Black feathers and terra cotta-coloured ribbon bows were on the crown, and the very broad, handsome strings were of terracotta - coloured ribbons, striped with black. Some charming little cloth bonnets were hardly larger than caps. One of these had a roimh golden-brown furry surface, and a brown bird was its sole trimming. A pretty bouuct showed a skilful combination oi red and brown. The small T round crown Was of crimson velvet, and the brim of choco-late-brown velvet, while a bunch of black feathers and ospreys, intermixed with velvet bows, formed the trimming. Velvet is still the “ only wear ” in millinery. The hats in vogue aro either large and of the “ picture” order or in the shape of dainty toques. Some pretty toques of velvet and doth are on view at some establishments, and many of these are French models. A pretty black velvet toque had high up-standing wings of velvet at the back, and encloses a dainty pair of grey birds, as in a nest. Some of the new toques are completely covered with tiny birds, while others Bhow only one or two. A dainty toque is of dark blue velvet, on the full crown of which perches a grey and brown bird. A novel and pretty toque is of green velvet, and had a crown not unlike that Of a Tam-o’-Shanter. Green ribbon bows, green wings, showing glints of gold, and ospreys formed the trimming. A charming “ picture” bat was of ruby-coloured felt, with a flat, broad brim, and drooping white ostrich feathers. Another picturesque hat was of the Rdbens order. It was of reddish-brown velvet, lin Ad with black, and black ostrich feathers drooped over one side, and seemed to be held in place by ribbon bows. With the millinery were shown a number of pretty gold and tinsel butterflies for wearing in the evening in the hair, and the ever-popular marabout feathers, ti|>|>ed with gold or silver. _As this is the season of party-giving, the display of flowers for evening dresses was particularly attractive.

Floral sprays are to be much used on the hall dresses of this year. A writer in an English journal says : —“ Great attention is given to the floral decoration of ball gowns, and one of the prettiest treatments, both for tulle and ervj-e dresses, is the introduction of roses which appear overblown. Theso are placed upon the skirt, and from them the detached leaves fall down to the hem, far prettier than merely rose leaves all over. One beautiful dress that pleased me much had literally thousands of violets upon it, the whole front being composed of violets. I have seen some gowns admirably suited to young girls, with tho fronts covered with daisies, stalk and all, side panels, and trimmings at the foot, being composed of those same daisies, threaded together by the stalk. A leading modiste has introduced a delightful dress trimming of natural flowers, which she is marking up principally now in violets, ropes of thefee fragrant blooms, starting from the shoulder iu either an aigrette or epualette, whichever is best suited to the figure, and meandering down the front of the bodice and the skirt, being caught up~here and there, and finally reaching the right side of the train. A radical change is to be noticed in new ballgovrtis. The chief object would seem to be to render such garments as flat as possible, and the waist long. Low bodices are do rxgucnr, but they are cut in a becoming fashion ; so that those not blessed with pretty figures cun soften any harshness of outline by draperies. The Court bodice coming off the shoulder, pointed back and front, and laced up the back, is well worn, as it always is, but there are as many varieties iu ball bodices as there are in the cut of morning gowns, and many of the French dresßes are arranged en Empire, indeed, most of the newest have the two sides distinctly different, and as often as not each sleeve is cut from a contrasting fabric. Sashes are worn falling from the bodice on to the skirt, wliere they end in heavy fringes. A newer style is to have a wide ribbon l>elt, which ends at the side of the waist, hanging down only a few inches.

Pojjpy-red dresses for the evening have been very popular recen f ly in London, and the poppy itself is much in favour for ball gowns. Three shades of those blooms, made in both velvet and aiLk, form the panels on many skirts. With eau dr nil either rich white or pink embroidered crepe dr cfUne finds favour, and light yellow and light blue are much worn. Many gowns are made with rows of flowers without foliage, set a 6 close as they can, especially roses, inside the bouillonne at the hem. Russiau net is ohqiip, and stands much good hard wear; no wortder that it finds the general appreciation it now does, and for winter parties there is no doubt that it will have many patrons among young ladies, both married and single. Matrons often wear a velvet bodice with it, sometimes matching the rows of velvet frequently run through the net hem by way of trimming, while girls wear a simple bodice draped with the net. It is made, of course, in black, white, and red, but also in a long range of most beautiful colours, fiie lime tone, perhaps, the prettiest. Many pretty gowns are made of this, trimmed with the deep pointed lace and embroidery now much worn : now and thou it borders the skirt, and is used as a belt, when the points should turn down, in order to lengthen the waist: turned upwards they not only shorten it, but increase the size considerably.

4Lniong tho minor details of dress, buttons nrc becoming more artistic every year. There are buttons of every size and shape, to suit all manner of garments, nearly every different kind of which requires somethin" peculiarly adapted to it. Fashions vary a good deal as regards the size of buttons, but in shape very little. Small buttons are proper at the present time, and these are made in every shape conceivable. Ivory and bone are fashionable materials, but some of the most -expensive ones are of oxidised silver, and plain and smoked polished pearl. Crochet-covered buttons are handsome, and are sold in sets for trimming and fastening to match, viz., six, -eight, or twelve very large ones, and a sufficient number of small ones in the same pattern. Buttons of tortoise-shell and some others iu beautiful enamel are occasionally seen. Mosaic Sat terns aro preferred to those of fancy esigns. . OIiANGES. Oeavok Jellt.—Put the strained iuice of four Seville oranges and the thin rind of one into an enamelled saucepan with a pint . of water and eight oranges, froed from the rind and white pith and cut into slices of a quarter of an inch in thickness, and the pips of all the oranges. Simmer very gently for half an hour, then strain the liquid until it is quite clear. Weigh this, boil it for five minutes, put it with it 3 weight in good loaf sugar and boil it again till it jellies. Put it into jars, cover it m the usual way, and store in a cool, dry place. Time altogether, about one hour. Oran as Marmalade (Quick way of making). —Take equal weights of oranges and loaf-sugar. Boil the rinds of the oranges until they are quite oof t. While they are stewing, divide the

i fruit into quarters, and scrape out the pulp and juices with the handle of a spooa._ Minee the rinds-of the oranges very mix them with the pulp, jirice, and sugar, and put aU into a preserving-pan. Bring the manmalade Jo the boiling point, then leave it «n the fire for three minutes only. Pour it into jars, cover and store for use. No water is ueeu with this marmalade Orange Marmalade Pudding Baked.—Mix together a tablespoonfifl of orange marmalade with two tablespoonfuls of so gar, 2oz. of butter, and a dessert-spoonful of flour. Beat the mixture well until it is quite free from lumps, then add two well-whisked eggs. Lme a pie-dish with good paste, pour in themixture, and bake for twenty minutes in a brisk oven. The flour may be omitted, rf preferred. Orakge Maemaladb.— Take equal weights of oranges and loaf sugar. Put the oranges whole iuto a preserving pan, eover them with cold water, and bring them to the point of boilia". Four* off tho liquid, put fresh water with the fruit, and boil gently until the rinds •f the oranges can be easily pierced with the head of a pin. Drain the oranges, and cut them—skin pulp and everything—into thin slices; remove tho pips and throw the fruit into a preserving pan with half a pint of the water in which the oranges were last boiled to every pound of fruit and half the sugar which is to be used. Simmer gently for thirty minutes, then add the remainder of the sugar, and boil twenty minutes longer, or until the marmalade jellies.