LADY CLIMBER’S FEAT.

Star (Christchurch), Volume LXVI, Issue 20231, 15 February 1934, Page 4

LADY CLIMBER’S FEAT.

Traverse of Douglas and Glacier Peaks. (Special to the " Star.”) WAIITO GORGE, February 14. Miss Marjorie Edgar-Jones, of Timaru, with Guides Jack Cox and Mark Lysons, of Franz Josef Glacier, left for Chancellor Ridge on February 8, and proceeded to the Pioneer Ridge bivouac next day. On Saturday, February 10, they traversed Glacier Peak and Douglas Peak. Ascending Glacier Peak by the north-west face, the party proceeded along the north-east ridge up the short but steep rock pitch and so to the summit. After cutting steps down the steep snowcap, the descent of the hair-raising north-west rock arrete began. The rocks were good, but the first few hundred feet of the ridge is exceedingly sharp and steep, and the double rope had to be used to negotiate several smooth or overhanging pitches. About a thousand feet down the ridge they cut into a snow couloir and descended it to the snowfield, reaching the bivouac after about 131 hours’ climbing. On February 12 the same party attempted Mount Tasman via Engineer Col, but was forced to turn back about half-wav to the shoulder owing to the high wind. From Engineer Col the party traversed Lenderfeldt to Marcel Pass. The party returned to Waiho the next day.